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                    <text>PART VI
BUTAH

�UTAH ARSA 1 f c&gt;.

^SPRING CANYON,

UTAhT

JessJ^ Knight needed coal to operate the smelter

he had Just built in the Tintic mining district of Central
Utah.

The coal in Spring Canyon, west of the town of Helper,

looked promising,

Knight bought up 1600 acres alonsr the

canyon and proceeded to build a town near the most accessible
portion of the underground seam of coal,

constructed sixty substantial sandstone

homes along freshly traded streets.

Next

of frame company buildings, and finally
of coal.

he built a number
he tapped the vein

It can't be said that Knight lacked confidence.

His jud^^ent wasn’t bad either, for more than eleven million

tons of coal were eventually to be drawn from the mines above
town.
Knight owned the mine, the town, and the buildings.

He named the town "Storf s*’, after the man hired to supervise
the operation. He would have named the town '^^ghtsville’v,
except that a community near his smelter already bore that
name,

Before anyone moved into town, Knight laid down the
rules.

No gambling houses, no saloons, no redrlight district,

and no mercy for those who ehose to be in violation.

In spite

of, or perhaps because ofxthe rules, the town quickly grew to

�a population of over 1,000, and production

one hundred

tons a day
A largeyy^stone schoolhouse was constructed by the
company,

Knight's organizational efforts left little opporj*

tunlty for meaningful accomplishment on the part of the town
folk. Town pride could manifest itself only in tW support of
the higljschool athletic program and the local baseball team.

The towns of Storrs, Helper, Standardville, Latuda, Rains,
and Mutual were within a dozen miles of each other, and each
had
competing teaiaj^ Rivalry was intense.
In 1920

the Rio Grande built its tracks up the

canyon, parallel to Knight's private line, and coal production

doubled.
the mine

Later, in 1924, when Knight no longer needed the coal,
town, and associated structures above and below ground

were sold to the Spring Canyon Coal Company.

The name of the

town then became “Spring Canyon.*^ The new owners boosted

production to ^00 tons of coal per day.

During World War II

production reached an all: time high of 2,000 tons per day.
Population of the town, however, did not grow proportionately.

Many citizens chose to live in nearby Helper.
During the post war years
^1

production slacked, and

--

only small crews worked the

the population dwindled.

By 1959

mine, and ten years later

that minimal effort was terminated.

The three families left in town moved out one by one.
the town was empty.

By 1972.

�Plat spots are at a premium*in the canyon.

The

town of Spring Canyon occupies the only sl^ble
The school, bank.and hotel fill the narrow
J
south end, while the company offices and store, along with

available.

the hospital, are squeezed into the equally narrow north end.

The comparatively wide center section of town is filled with
perhaps a dozen rows of residences, many of whleh arc- still

intact.

Just north of town^half a mile or so, is a suburb

consisting of small boarding homes and a smattering of unique
dugouts.

Recesses in the sandstone canyon wall were deepened,

and short walls^xtended outward to form hybrid structures
with truncated roofs,
As I poked about the deserted town

1 became aware

of other visitors.

A young man, his wife, and two children

were sightseeing.

The father frequently stopped to point out

buildings that seemed to be particularly meaningful to him.

I

approached him in hope of obtaining information concerning some

buildings that I had found to-bo a bit puzzling.

Lewis Korenko, like most former residents of towns
that have become deserted, greatly missed the opportunity to

visit with old hometown friends.

I was a poor second choice,

but Lewis Korenko had so much conversation stored up that he
couldn’t hold back.

Lewis, now a carpenter residing in Salt Lake City,

moved with his folks to Spring Canyon in 1957, when the town

�was In its dying throes.

His dad was a member of one of the
The crews were small, only four

last crews to work the mine.

men working underground at a time.

Maintenance work required

as much effort as the actual mining of coal.
Lewis'sjfather switched duty with a friend one day.
That day

an explosion ripped through the mine.

The four men

"Dad said it was the only time he

underground were killed.

M traded shifts," reported Lewis^—^ "and he claimed he

would never do it again ~ felt real bad about it,"
We wandered over toward the east edge of town,
"Used to be an overhead tram years ago ~ then they changed

to the track and cable carsj"

Lewis explained.

"Whole thing

was gravity powered ~ loaded cars ran downhill all by them?'
selves."

Lewis pointed to a small^flat spot high up and

across the big canyon,

"Had a tennis court up there."

Before I could ask about chasing lost balls, Lewis proceeded

to brief me on the town's suburbs.

"Just around the bend,

up the big canyon, was a bunch of homes ~ called the place

round the bend.

Lewis pointed to »ho north.

"Up Sowbelly

Canyon, before you get to the mine, those long buildings
were boarding houses run by Greeks, then later by the Japanese."

We walked back to the main street of town and
looked over the old community bath~~house.

I planned to stay the night in town.

eye out for the White Lady,

Lewis asked if

"If you do, keep an

She wanders around the town

�wailing and looking for her husband.
at Peerless years ago,

She*s been seen by quite a few

people running the hills above town.*
west part of town,

He was killed down

Lewis waved to the

"A young character, kind of looney

himself, laid a trap for the White Lady

put a bunch of

explosives in a house she was supposed to be haunting.

it up too!

Blew

He's in prison now, and the White Lady is still

walling around town ~ 2le must not of got her."
Later, as the sun dropped below the canyon rim, I

watched the squirrels and chipmunks scurry about.

Nooks and

crannies abound, and the rodents find no shortage of housing
or storage apace.

The inheritors of Spring Canyon lead a

peaceful life.

A life Inte^pted only b^j^the occasional

daytime visits

former residents, and the unpredictable

nocturnal Jaunts of the mysterious White Lady.

j MAP NOTEi

The 15 minute Castle Gate, Utah, United States

Geological Survey topographic map, made in 1914, shows the
town of Storrs, later renamed Spring Canyon,

7

�7gTANDARDVILLB. UTAH f
Mrs. Thelma Wilson, 75, of Helper, Utah, recalls

much of interest concerning life in the town of Standardvllle.
Her husband worked in the Standax*d Company Mines for twenty

years.

He worked @day weeks.

Holidays were Infrequent.

&gt;76

Except for Christmas, the most memorable yearly celebration was

Standard Day,'^ Men got the day off, and the company provided

entertainment and food.

There were presents for all the kids

under
According to Thelma, Standardvllle came into exist?-

ance about the same time as Spring Canyon.

"There were still

a number of people living in tents back in 1916 — but Standard?

Ville was growing fast.

They had a big boardinghouse for men.

a church, company store, and of course there was a post office.
There were dances at the community hall, and we had a pltchur
show.—^Iways called it that 01 pitchur show." Thelma rummaged

"Had school up to

through a box looking for old school photos.

the 9^ grade for the children — sent them to Latuda for the
lO^h grade."

The town had no Jail or cemetery.

Company towns,

Thelma explained, had little crime, and anyone

died was

buried in Helper, Just a few miles east at the mouth of

Spring Canyon,
The Miners* Museum in Helper contains an assort?^

ment of old equipment, news clippings, and photographs.
Many of the photographs and mj^mentos in the collection were

2-6?'

�from the Standardvllle locality.

Of particular note

was the

pay voucher on display that showed one miner’s tally for a
month’s work»
4 hrs. labor @ 255^........ $ 1.00
110 cars-224,370^ coal @60i4P. 60.ll
Total Money Sarned . . .* . $61.11

A

Gharffesj
Hospital................ $ 1.00
Coupons................
30.11
Horses
................
30,00
$61.11 L

At first glance it appears t4wt-the miner Just broke even.
Actually, he had $30.11 in company money, either script or

brass coins, with which to buy food, clothlng^and lodging

for the month.

The charge for horses was explained by Fred

Voll, caretaker of the /Museum.

"Each man took a bunch of

tags down the mine with him.

When he got a car filled with

ore, he hung his tag on the car, and it was hauled out by

horses.

The miner’s tag was collected topside, his account

credited for the coal, and a charge entered for the use of
the horse,"

Unexplained was the fact that 224,370 pounds was

a bit more thsui 112 tons and should have brought more than

&gt;61 in monies earned.

Either the bookkeeper or the twiner

was poor at figures.
There are no miners in Standardvllle today/ust

a few men working at salvaging the remains.

The extensive

metal coal tipples at the site are presently being dismantled

for scrap.

Even the railroad rails are being out by torch

�Into loadable sections.

Rusted equipment stands about»

a

crane, some loaders, and parts of an old caterpillar ~ all

destined to be melted down*
On the hill northeast of town, the company office
stands roofless. Its cover sacrificed In the Interest of
lower taxes. Empty homes are scattered a^i^Totherwlse

empty streets.
It's pretty quiet In town now.

Just the occa^^

slonal snap and clan^ as cutting torches eat away at the

remains — a far cry from -Standard Day-^ln Standardvllle.

MAP NOTE*

The 15 minute Castle Gate, Utah, United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the town midway

up Spring Canyon,

�IXaJlATUDA, rains, and mutual, UTAH^r
The coal seam thickened at the upper end of Spring
Canyon.

A number of tunaels tapped the seam.

Substantial

towns mushroomed around three of the mines.

Latuda, established In 191^ as ''^Ibert^^ grew to
be the largest and the longest^lived of the three. It grew
from @ homes in 1918 to more than
in 1922. The town had

to be renamed when a post office was established.

There were

too many towns already named liberty.-^Latuda’^was chosen/^

in honor of the coal company responsible for the town’s
g.
existj^nce.

The town of Rains, less than a mile up the canyon

from Latuda. was established in 1915 by L. P. Hains, owner
of^e Carbon Coal Company.

The Rains Mine was one of the

biggest producers in the canyon, reaching 2,000 tons per day

at its peak.

The town grew on either side of the single road

along the canyon floor.

As the population Increased, new

houses were built up the canyon, close to the outskirts of
another town springing up around the Mutual Mine.

Mutual, established in 1921, never grew larger than
250 residents.

Its mine, on the thickest part of the seam,

had great potential, but production during its best year never
the amount
equalled
brought out of the Hains Mine in a two; week
period.

When the Mutual Mine shut down in 1938, residents

�of a tent town by the Little Standard Mine, half a mile away,
moved into the vacant houses.

The company store was bought

out by one of the new citizens

and continued in business

until 195^» when Mutual, the uppermost town, became deserted.
The towns

down the Canyon closed in sequence.

The Rains Mine closed down in 1958.

The Latuda

Coal Company continued to operate until I966.

Houses from

the three towns were sold off and hauled down the canyon to
Helper and Price.

The old company building still marks the center of

Latuda.

2'7 2^

Just east, the little stone Jail stands in usable

Below the jail are a number of dugout garages.

condition.

Up the canyon a short dlstancey&lt;at the site of Hains,

two of the eidr orle-inal^wooden coal cars stand at the side of

the road.

Behind are the machine shops of the Carbon Coal

Company.
At Mutual

most of the mine complex is in place.

The old store still has its sign over the side door,

^‘7^

^rther

up the canyon are numerous frame houses in various states of

destruction.

Cattle roam freely about, around, and occasionally

through-the old homes.
7
There is little sign of the activity that once

filled the canyon.

3-7 6.

The coal is gone now — all thirty

million tons of it.
2-7 7

�MAP MOTE*

The Castlegate, Utah^l5 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map falls to show any of
these towns.

They are easily located, however, by driving

up the main canyon from Standardville.

�FRISCO,

UTAhC

BSSBSHHHHBmSSSSSSSw

Frisco and Cisco, two of Utah*s most unusual

ghost towns, are a study In contrasts,

Frisco, at the

western edge of the Xtate, was a mining town.

Cisco, a

state's width to the east, was a railroading community.
Both were bom in the midc 1870^.
short-lived,

Frisco was wild and

Cisco was mild and more durable.

been a ghost for almost one hundred years.

Frisco has

Cisco, Utah's

newest ghost town, met its demise in 1970, a victim of
progress.
To most observers

valuable only when aged.

ghost towns are like antiques^

The true aficionado might disagree.

Some items are worthy of preservation from the moment of dl^^

use.

A particular buggy whip

with a long and faithful history

is deserving of a spot on the mantpj^ the same day the horse is
traded in on the Model T.
Some ghost towns are worthy of veneration the day
they die,

Johnny Cash felt that way about Cisco even before

the town had completely expired.

But first, the history of

Frisco, sued then Cisco ~ the contrast is enhanced if the
story travels with the flow of time.

Jim Ryan and Sam Hawkes, veteran prospectors, left
Pioche, Nevada, in the summer of '75.

They headed east, skirtj*'

ing the southern slopes of the Needle Range, then headed north

^4

�Into the heart of the San Francisco Mountains.
At Squaw Springs, the two prospectors decided to

give their pack animals a few days’ graze on the comparatively

lush grass that grew about the water hole.

They prospected

the area leisurely, with little success.

Returning from one

last look at a nearby blowout, one of the prospectors took a

passing whack at a small, light-colored outcrop.

cleaved to reveal a heavy streak of shiny

The limestone

grey silver.

Ryan and Hawkes made permanent camp Immediately,
then proceeded to blast a hole in pursuit of the precious metal.
The vein thickened, and at twenty-five feet below the surface
looked like a salable prospect.

it

When offered $25,000 for their

mine, Ryan and Hawkes were quick to take the money, retire from
mlning^and ocet back to prospecting.
The new owners pushed the shaft (now called the
300

Horn Silver) to a depth of nearly trhgee/^uadred feet.
held, and nearly

The vein

million .dallawa worth of ore was removed.

Figuring tha»»the deposit was near depletion, owners

of the Horn Silver let out word that the mine was for sale. Jay
t
Cooke, once an Influen/^lal financier, now broke and pursued by
creditors, bought the mine with the scavewiged remains of his
fortune.

The purchase price of $5 million was met by a little

cash, some loans, and a lot of promises.

to go for broke,

JT Cooke Intended

Neither Cooke nor the sellers were aware

that the Horn Silver was yet to reach its prime.

It would

�eventually produce more than $20 million in silver for its
owners.

Settlements were scattered about the area

some

near the mine, others strung out along the foot of the mountain.
When the Utah Southern Railroad extended its tracks another

200 miles to the Hom Silver, population in the area took a
sudden leap.

The various communities amalgamated^and a town

grew beside the tracks one mile east of the mine.
The town took its name from 9,725s foot San Francisco
had "bpfin
Peak, Just a few miles to the north, but already that name

shortened to •Frisco Peak.*^ Knowing full well that the town

would be called Frisco, the citizens chose to make the short
version official.

In time the peak was renamed "^risco^ to

match the town.
By 1880

temperament.

spectrum.

zenith.
Frisco had reached its pyate in size and

Twenty-three saloons offered vice in the fullest

Tenderloin ladles solicited on the main floor and

utilized the rooms above on a rotating basis.

Whiskey was bad^

and the gambling tables crooked.
Living was expensive, but life was cheap.

The

lives of many miners had already been shortened by the high
temperatures and bad dust in the mine.

Most of them suffered

from some degree of miners’ consumption.
Under these conditions
and fights were common.

tempers flared quickly,

Some claim that Frisco would have

�been a slg^ble town If so many citizens hadn't killed each

other.

The local mortician toured the back alleys each

morning, picking up bodiesy^and burying them for whatever he
»
could rifle from their clothing.

A few upright citizens determined that the situation
was out of hand.

A reformed gunslinger by the name of Pearson

was hired to bring respectability to Frisco.

Pearson's idea

of law and order was to declare open season on anyone he figured

was undesirable.
of town

or draw.

as often, lost.

He offered the offenders a choice ~ get out

Often the hard cases chose the latter

^men in one day.

His opponents invariably

Pearson was fast.

died of a bad case of "slow."

and^

One reporter claimed he dispatched

Within six weeks

the town was respectable^”

if somewhat smaller.
In 1885, after ten years of continuous operation,

disaster struck the Horn Silver,
life.

Luckily there was no loss of

The men coming off shift had Just left the skip and the

new shift was about to go down, when a trembling was felt in

the gallows frame and cable.

The tremble repeated, then a low

rumble was heard as 900 feUt of vertical shaft caved in.
Observers claimed the cave-in caused a shock wave

of such proportion that windows were broken in Milford, (1^

miles away.

It would be far more logical to assume that an

earth tremor was the cause of both the cave-ln and the damage

in Milford.

�Miners were laid off as small orews set to work

drilling the 900 feet of newly filled shaft.
closed down for lack of work.

The smelters

In turn, operators of the

charcoal ovens went broke, and woodcutters found no ny^rket

for their product.
Frisco was wiped out overnight.

Sven when the

mine resumed operations, Frisco remained largely deserted.

or commuted from Milford.

Mining crews stayed at the mine

There is little to be seen at the town site ~

a few foundations and remnants of one store.

But the Horn

Silver, a mile to the west, is still reasonably intact.
Hoisting cables are in place, holding double-

barrelled skips at surface level.
hoist are of &lt;» unique design.

Gallows wheels atop the

They are flattbottomed and

deepcrlmmed to hold the old-fashioned flat "ribbon cable"

of the type used in Bodie, California.

Centered in the flat

surface of the gallows wheel is a semi^ircular depression
to guide the more modern round cable.
the drums of the hoist.

Bound cable is now on

No sign of the old flat cable could

be found.
Down the hill a bit, just in front of a massive

excavation in the rocky hillside, stand half a dozen mine

buildings

side

and the foundations of the two smelters. To the

a number of low log and rock soddies fight a losing

battle with the elements.

Up the ravine

a freshening breeze

loosens another rusted sheet oj^ corrugated metal on the old
hoist house.

�It Is interesting to speculate ao^e how the

course of history might have changed if Ryan or Hawkes had
not succumbed to the urge to give that small outcrop of

limestone a passing whack.

MAP NOTEJ

The Frisco, Utah, 15 minute United States Geological

Survey topographical map shows the town, the Horn Silver Mine,

and a number of additional mines in the area.

�CISCOS utahC
Cisco, after nearly

years of serving the

travelers* needs, became a ghost when the Interestate hlgh^

way bypassed the arteries of town.

One general store remained

open in the vain hope that enough

would remain in town

The owner

to raise his family

to keep it in business.

and live out his life in the small country town he had come

to love.

It soon became obvious that his hopes would not be

realized^

would inevitably have to uproot his family and

begin a new life.

That's when Johnny Cash happened through town.
was-intrigued by the unusual situation^

throughout the day and into the evening.

-He

remained in town

One of the few

residents in town at the time reported that he spent geven *7.// --

dollars and eleven cents-, more than anyone had spent in months.

Johnny bought a round of beer or two as he listened to stories
about Cisco.

He was particularly taken by the pathos of the

father who must take his family to a new town ~ whose kids

could never come back to visit old friends ~ whose kids would
not have a meaningful hometown, until time and new experience
could provide new memories.

Johnny wrote a song about Cisco.

He drew on its

early history for the title,
"Cisco Clifton Station." It
isn’t one of Johnny Cash’s better sonc:5j\but it was the most
popular tune dn the Juke box at the old store in Cisco.

�The finite history of Cisco began in the mid; 1880^
John Martin, surveyor for the narrow-gafee railroad, laid out

the section of the line connecting Mack, Colorado, with
Thompson, Utah,

The area between the Book Cliffs and the

Colorado River, was of particular Interest to him.
to settle on land adjacent to the tracks.

He chose

In I8873 he applied

for and was granted a post office for the settlement that grew
about his original homestead,
A second community was growing two miles away,

centered about a restaurant and store.

Victor Hanson, owner

of the store, may have had some Inside information, since the
new wide-track rail lines were shortly to run past his holdings.
John Martin’s settlement folded, and Hanson's town,

now laid out with a full set of streets, was granted its own
*

post office under the name of Cisco.

The name given Martin’s original post office became
clouded with the move.

Some folks say it was Martinsdale,

others Book Cliffs, or Clifton Station,
Soon new stores were springing up in Cisco, between
main street and the railroad trakks.

Boxcarxloads of ice were

hauled in to preserve produce and cool the palate.

The

tourist trade via railroad and horse-drawn wagon gave the

town sustenance and reason for growth.

Later

the highway

through town was surfaced, and Cisco’s future seemed assured.

�Early in the present century

gold and silver were

found In the La Sal Mountains a few miles south.

Oil was con^

sldered likely In the area near town, and numerous rigs moved

In to tap the faults and domes that hopefully existed In the
strata deep beneath the surface.

The first barrel of crude was pumped from the Cisco
Well on February 6, 1904.

The Cisco Mercantile paid the

owners $100, and the town celebrated.

The newly finished hotel

Later

additional wells brought In abundant

supplies of natural gas.

The Cisco Gas Wells were the biggest

was booked solid.

producers In Utah during the late twenties.

Cisco had oil and gas, but local water was scarce.
The scarcity seemed

little note as long as the railroad kept

pumping water from the Colorado River to the standpipe in town.
For sixty years the railroad and town folk shared the cost/\to

their mutual benefit.

When the railroad retired its steam

engine^" it no longer hswi need o^ large quantities of water.

The pumps were shut down, and Cisco’s water supply dried up.
It took twelve days for town representatives to

obtain a Judgment.

The railroad was told to continue Its

part of the bargain, whether

needed water for

diesels

or not.
In the late sixties, word leaked out that major

highway Improvement was being considered.

Highway 50 passing

through town was to be made part of the new four-lane inter?^
state network.

Owners of gas stations and motels made plans

�to enlarge and update their establishments.
arrived;

Then the bad news

The new highway was to take a short cut across the

bend that Cisco occupied.

Access to town would be a dozen

miles away In either direction.

Residents rushed to sell their homes and businesses

before the word could spread.

Potential buyers were made wary

by the proliferation of "for sale" signs all about town,
Cisco had contracted a terminal Illness.

As work

started on the Interstate

It became obvious that the town had

only a year or so to live.

The six gas stations closed down

like dominoes In a line.

Stores and motels closed, until only

one remained open, the one In which Johnny Cash spent
tialiars and eleven
That was several years ago, and now that store Is

deserted.

The Juke box Is still Inside, full 6^ recoils, but

there Is no one around to play "Cisco Clifton Station."

MAP NOTSj

Cisco Is shown In detail on the Cisco, UtaHj\15

minute United States Geological Survey topographic map.
location of the town Is also shown on most highway mapg,

The

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                    <text>PART V

COLORADO

/1o -

�The rocky prominences of a dozen neaks rise to
14,000
more than
^heweaml feet.
Gascadln&lt;? streams fill
the narrow floors of deen valleys.

Trails into the area

hany on steep mountainsides and cross unstable talus slopes.
The passes a-ivlny access are more than two miles above sea

level.

Some remain snow:covered the year around.

the snow melts, avalanches are common.

Where

It is a difficult

land, to traverse.

Prom Silverton^ the road heads northeast
valley of the Animas aiver.

up the

As the valley narrows, the road,

by necessity, imitates the river’s every bend and sweep.

In

four miles the valley opens^and the road crosses the now yently

meanderinsr stream.
A

valley.

old cabins

sprinkled across the

The remains of an old mill stand on the flat at the

north edye of town.

An aerial tramway still extends from

the mill, reaching upward in broad dips toward a mine now
G
hidden by tall tre^s. Rusted ore buckets hans^ at random in/^
tervals.

The cable extends through the mill, passes around, a

weighted

turnabout wheel^

back up the slope.

then returns through the mill and

The mill is guyed with an opposing

�cable to balance the toppling pull of the tramway. The
r
equalizing effect of the anchor ^able is controlled by

a»awo«.»&lt; a series of pullevs mounted in blocks

Increase sevenfold the force aoplled.

an to

X

Captain Baker, prospector and exnprer, led the

first party of gold seekers into the area.

The sevenunan

party set out in July of i860

determined to explore the

San Juan (St. John) River.

Finding little color in that

drainage, the party moved to the northwest.

Gold in sand

was finally located in modest quantity at the confluence of
Cascade Creek and the Animas River.

Baker senty^exaygerated

reportand that December, Kellogg, one of the financial
backers of the original group, brought in a party of one

hundred.

I4any of the prospectors brought their families.

Winter travel in the high mountains was chancy, and the party

barely survived a severe blizzard encountered in San Luis Park.
Members of the party found it necessary to burn their wagon

boxes and furniture in order to keep warm.

By the following May

a camp was established at

a site referred to as Zlnlmas Clty^, but poors paying sand

and threatening Indians caused rampant dissatisfaction and

�desertion. everyone blanied Baker for exaggerating the
orisrinal strike, and at one poin^^reatened to hang him.
i,«Zithin a few months

serted.

Animas City was nearly deT^

A gentleman named Pollack remained until fall,

surviving the threats of the Utes by donating (under duress)

precious goods to the Indians.
held captive by
Navajo children^^the Utes^hnd

In return

he was given four

w?»ivM&lt;F 3ventually

war

broke out^and the Indians warned all Xf^ites to clear out of
this surrounding area.
Baker returned with another party in 1868.

Again

he failed to live up to his claims of riches, and most of
his party deserted.

Baker and two faithful friends headed

southwest, hastened on their way by hostile Indians.

Cornered

in a canyon, the trio had no choice but to build a raft

driftwood and float down the stream.

of

The stream was the

Colorado, and the point of launch was the head of the Grand

Canyon.

Baker was shot dead as the raft was pushed off.

of the remaining two men was washed overboard and drowned.
The last man survived by lashing himself to the raft.

He

was found days later and miles downstream, still bound to

the raft — unconscious, but still alive.

One

�by the Bullion City Company in 1874
Streets were laid outy^at the Junction of CunnlncJ?'

ham Creek and the Animas Hlver7^»t the oiito that would, later
.Hni.TQyd.mr5n n

fl -

-h.r

Bullion City

The town was named

dents chansred the name

b.y the promoters.

New reslA*

tho town to Howardsvllle at the

first town meetinc:, probably for a man named Howard

who had

built the first cabin in town.

Silverton was sprinjjing up at the same time, but

Howardsvllle, somewhat larger, was selected as county seat.
Silverton's
Within a year, however,y^promoters were claiming a population
of 3,OOO.fnnn ^ilvniPtnu.

Recorded figures indicated that 800

was a lot closer to the truth, but^whatever the population,

Silverton outshown its neighboring city, and the seat was
transferred bv majority vote of the citizenry of the two towns.

Niegoldtown and Highland Mary, both smaller than
Howardsvllle, grew up

around large mine and mill complexes.

Both towns were on Cunningham Creek within 0 miles of
Howardsvllle.

population.

They did little to preserve Howardsvllle’s

In 18??

Howardsvllle had 0 saloons, a brewery,

a reputation, and a population that showed up mostly on weekT^

ends.

In 1881
election day.
down.

Howardsvllle could muster a mere 150 on

The town died slowly as mine after mine shut

The post office finally closed in 1939.

Presentlv,

�two or three cabins are occupied, and one mine sends ore
to a modern mill at the east end of town.

The Highland Mary Mine and town, south of HowardSe­
ville, has its own unique history.

of New York City,

The two Ennis Brothers

recipients of a large inheritance,

decided they would like to invest their money in a gold mine.
Devout believers in the occult, they logically consulted

their favorite seer as to where that .void might be found.
The seer, primed with a fat fee, pored over a map of the

west.

A map of Colorado

His hand descended on Colorado.

was quickly obtained.

The seer strained to the utmost

and^

after much concentration, plunked his finver on the map at

the spot where vreat riches would be found.
a high passmiles from Howardsville

11,200 feet.

The spot was on

at an elevation of

The believing brothers staked out the claim and

recorded it as the ’highland Mary.

For an added fee, the

spiritualist wandered over the area and "sensed" the lodes.

Several years and a million dollars later, the

disillusioned brothers sold out and returned east.

The new

dug along the thin veins of ore.

owners

The veins Joined, and rich deposits were located.

The mine

became a strong producer

In a few

but a short-lived one.

years the town, mine^and mill collapsed.

At present

the

mill foundations are about all one can find at the site.

It’s a great place to picnic

and a rewarding place to snoop

�about. The hillsides between Hit^hland Mary and Howardsville

are crowded with remnants of the mininsr boom.

Numerous

cables still scallop their way up the ^000: foot eastern

scarp of the valley.

Buildings of the Little Panney Mine

perch mid#slope with little evidence of support.

Nearby

tramway buckets of the Buffalo Boy swing a hundred feet in
the air — still loaded with ore.

MAP NOTE:

The Silverton, Colorad15, minute and the

Howardsville, Colorado^ ?! minute United States Geological
Survey topographic macs show Howardsville and most of the'

old mines in the area.

�SU33KA, COLORADO

The Sunnyside Mine was Eureka's prime reason for

The town, like the mine, sputtered reluctantly
e.
Into exlstj^nce, ran well for a time, then slowed and

being.

clattered to an apparent halt.

Then, like an overheated

enojlne, It banyed out a few more revolutions, gasped, and

died,
Three thousand claims were filed In Animas Valley

during 1873.
few payed off.

Pew of the claims were proved up

andyyOf those,

The &lt;3unnvslde , located three miles north/'

west and a half mile above Eureka, was a notable exception.

George Howard located the Sunnyside In I873,

The

tunnel followed the vein Into the mountain just above Lake

Emma.

The direction of the vein Indicated that It would

outcrop again on the other side of the hill.

Inspection

led to the discovery of the Sunnvslde extension (later called

ths Gold Prince), just three-quarters of a mile northeast and

at the Identical elevation of the original strike.
held ore of^^easonable quality.
void,

The vein

The melt obtained was

sliver, and
John Terry provided much of the early finances,

but his Input exceeded the yield and he was forced to sell.

He got a srood price

but was vlven only S75»OOO down, with

payments to follow over a number of years.
found the mine to be a loser

The new owners

and refused to make further

�With the 175,000 and the help of Rasmus Hanson,

payments.

Terry again took over the mine
Into a paying proposition.

and turned the Gold Prince

At one time It was acclaimed

the richest mine In the state and was eventually to yield
oveij’^50 million In gold and silver.

Meanwhile, back down the hill at the flat spot
below the confluence of Niagara Greek and the Animas River,

a town was taking shape.

The town was officially platted

In 187^, or 1887, or 1881, depending on who wrote the
town’s history.

However^It Is certain that the town was

platted and a land patent applied for.

Some years later,

after an unexplainable delay, the town patent was Issued.
It was dated 1883 and signed "Chester A. Arthur, President."

By this time

the town had more than ©dozen homes

and a business district to match.

The San Juan Expositor

was publishing the news, but competition from other sheets In

the region kept the Expositor from turning out more than one
Issue a month.

Residents took care to build their homes In the
center of the broad gravel flat, hoping that roclTTalls and

snowslides would expend their energies at the fringes.

The

town was to remain free of damage, but surrounding mines and
shacks were frequently covered, moved, or eliminated by

avalanches.

�The Silver Wing bunkhouse was swept away in I906,
bTj burial when

The body of one victim was being moved

a storm hit the area.

The body was left by the road while

the relatives took cover.

Later

under another avalanche.

Apparently the man's number was up.

the corpse was found buried

Deep drifts all but eliminated traffic during the
winter.

Postmen wearing snowshoes

brought in the mall and

With freight hauling

as much meat as their backs could handle.

curtailed due to deep drifts, the price of meat soared, and

the moonlighting mailmen seized the opportunity.

Sighty

pounds was an ordinary load.

On one occasion

a postman disappeared with a

bundle of mail containing pay vouchers and other valuables.
He was never feuw*? og heard from again.

When a second pos^

man turned up missing, it was assumed he had also absconded.

Two years later

the second postman’s body was found, quite

well preserved, in .a snowbank, where he had been swept off
the trail and «mb buried by an avalanche.

The broad flats of 3ureka show little ^idence

of the two thousand people

once lived

A few

log shacks, extensive mill foundations, and a nearly intact
tramway are the most obvious.

In the center of the town'llte

a small but tall building seems to defy definition.

like a hose tower, but it’s not tall enough.

It looks

The stout

timbers at the corners and in the center would imply a water

-

*

�tower, but the area under the roof is not large enough.

It

could have been an overhead loader, but there is no evidence

of a ramp.

Perhaps it was originally a water tower and was

later decapped and used for storage.

Half a mile north of town, in a deep narrow valley,
is a large dormitory of relatively recent vintage.

it was last used by Sunnyside miners.

It is poorly located

and could be wiped out any winter by avalanche
spring by flood, but while it lasts

Probably

or any

it is spectacular.

Southeast of town, half way up thf
of Grown Mountain, a ramshackle old mine structure Clings,
defying all of Isaac Hewton’s postulations.

The topographic

map of the area fails to show a name for the mine.

The cartoj*

graphers probably figured the structure would be gone by the
time the maps were published.

The Sunnyside Mine died hard.

At one time it was

the largest mine in the state, and ores from its tunnels

fed four different mills, all running continuously.
there never* was a vein that didn’t end.

But

The Sunnyside closed

down in 1931.
A few folk stayed on in hopes 4jha»- the mine might

be reopened.

Their hopes were realized in 1937, when fifty

men were hired to refit the mill.

The population climbed

from nearly none to almost a hundred, and Sureka laid claim
to being the second largest town in the county.

Hopes faded

�when work on ^reconditioning slowed.
office in 1939

The town lost its post

and prosnects for survival looked "bleak again

But in 19^0 the machinery at the mill was finally put in
motion, running "smooth as glass."

Ore stockpiled on dumps

was processed, and reserves In the mines were blocked out.
However, Law 208 forced the mine out of production in 19^2,
when all gold mining was declared no:^^trateglc.

was needed for the war effort.

Manpower

In 19^8 the mill was sold

for salvage^and the huge coranlex was quickly dj aTnq.ntl.ed..

The town of Eureka is deserted.

The Animas River

wanders through town, changing course at will, occasionally
undermining and toppling another of the.■remaining structures.
Debris lines the banks.

A plank here, a gallows wheel there

and^half burled in the gravel, the front axle of an old

freight wagon.

Only the bare bones of Eureka remain, and

these will not long withstand the double-edged threat of

avalanche and flood.

MAP NOTE:

The Handies Peak, Colorado^minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows Eureka and the various
mines mentioned in the text.

�2'^^
fjhks,

/fM***^**^

goLJHiiDJ L

d/dar

In spite of the offer of free lots, there was no
ffreat rush to build homes in Animas Porks.

The 11,200c foot

elevation and heavy winter snows made life difficult
the necessities of that life expensive.

and

Summers were pleat^^

sant but winters were lonely, and one could be locked in by
snow for months at a time.

The operators of the San Juan

Smelting Company Mill at the Junction of the two forks of
the Animas Hlver wanted to maintain continuous operations
but were plagued

dwindling work forces each fall.

The

free lots helped attract a few, but it was the opening of

more mines and the building of a number of additional mills
that brought Animas Forks into full four-season existence.
That was in 1877, and it wasn't long before the

forested hillsides had been cut bare for winter firewood.
The mayor of the budding town warned the residents that^

without trees, avalanches would be free to roll into town.
He was right, but his forecast was a bit early.

Major avalanches did not occur at the town proper until the

turn of the century.

However, the threat of the surrounding

mountains was ever present, and mines located on their
slopes were frequently endangered.

Houghton Mountain to

the northwest, California Peak to the southwest, and Cinnamon

Mountain to the east, all more than 13,000|feet high, collected
massive amounts of snow

2.^

�At Its peak, Animas Porks had two assay offices,

one hotel, a stout jail, and a few fancy houses built by
mine owners.

Host of the miners lived in large boardinsT^

houses at the mine sites another 1,000 feet above town.

The

town had enough saloons to occupy miners on week^ds.

English sparrows arrived in the valley during the
summer of I896.

They had been noticed in Denver in 1892.

Their migration rate westward was calculated at (5^ miles

per vear.

The mines and mills, and hence the town, began
to fade in the early nineties.

As was often the case,

efforts were made to get a railroad in to lower the cost
of transportation, thus making possible the processing of

As a consequence, Otto Mears extended the

lower:grade ore.

railroad from Eureka.

To do so, he had to lay the tracks on

the wagon road in several narrow spots.

One fouramile stretch

contained seven areas badly prone to blockage by snowslides.

The unsinkable Otto, who had built roads and railroads across

terrain others termed impossible, proceeded to build ’’avalanche
proof" deflectors.

of the design.

Great claims were made about the strength

The first avalanche wiped them out.

The

railroad was completed in I906, minus the avalanche guards.

That winter brought some of the worst storms in the

town’s history.

It snowed steadily for a week.

killed (20) people in outlying communities

Snowslides
alone in the

�Shenandoah Boarding

e that was swept downhill, reduced

to rubble, and permanently burled In the debris.

One

avalanche filled a miner’s shack with snow, removed It from
Its original site, then covered It with

death.”

feet of the ’’white

The miner managed to dig his way out, cutting steps

as he followed the fissures In the snow.

Many slides rode

down the mountains southeast of town, crossed the stream and

the road, then climbed the opposite hill.

I^ltnesses claimed

the top of the slide would curve back on Itself like a tidal
wave, then fall back down toward the riven

In 1917 the huge Gold Prince 14111 was dismantled
and moved to Bureka.

By I926 the town of Animas Porks was

deserted.

Now only one mill and a dozen residences are
standing at the tow^Tlte.

In a small building at the base

of the remaining mill, hundreds of sacks of cement, all hard

as rock, stand In evidence of great hopes unfulfilled.

Up^

streamfon the west fori^a half mllej are the extensive bullffl^
Ings of the Bagley Mine complex.

I visited the site In midiJune.

It had snowed eight

Inches the day before, but now It was warm and the snow was

melting,

Numerous small rook"^ldes cracked down the slopes.

Rock &gt;Zfiucks scrambled about, escaping their water-logged r^

treats to enjoy the sun.

Water ouzels, commonly called

dippers^

were present In unusual numbers — some walking the river bottoms

�competely submerged^others standing: on rocks convulsively

bouncing up and down, busily living up to their nickname.

----------------------- --------------------------

NOTSj
y

Animas Forks and adjacent towns are shown on the

Handies Peak, Colorado^7i minute United States Geological
Survey topographic map.

3ND COLORADO ARSA 1

— S.O

�_ jgOLQRAPQ A35A 2

The Mt, Axtell and the Oh—Be—Joyful topoi^raphlc

maps need to be joined toojether to give a complete picture
of the Irwin town ^Ite«

A rectangle, three-quarters by

three-eighths of a mile

adjacent to Irwin Lake

(once

called Brennan Lake) Is labeled on the maps as *Irwln Cor­
porate Body. •^Along this stretch of land

and extending to

the south a bit Into an area once called •**^uby,was the

mile5 long main street of the short-lived silver boomtown

of Irwin,

I could find little sign of buildings as I walked
up the boulder-strewn road.

There was nothing left of the

(Vojbuslness houses that once lined,main street
Twenty'—A,
three of those business places had been saloons. There
wasn’t a sign of their existence -- no bottles^-J^’^no smashed

kegs, not even a lonely rusted barrel hcjp.

As I walked the area, faint signs of old foundations
became evident, and down by the stream

shacks.

I spotted several

Across the creek and up the hill were the extensive

and nearly Intact remains of the old Forest Queen Mine, once

the biggest producer In the area.

The owner of the mine was

once offered a million dollars for It — and he refused to

sell.

In 1932

It sold for

In back taxes.

^33

�The mine showed sicns of occupation,

'An old

steam tractor was blocked in position to provide power
for some of the mine machinery.

It was rusted and in

Next to the tractor, a vintage car was tilted

disrepair.

at an odd angle, its rear end jacked up and pointed toward

the shaft house like a skunk ready to do business,

A belt

led from a rear tire to a pulley wheel on a dewatering pump.

Another car was "reared up" and connected by belt to an ore
crusher.

On the other side of the structure

an old army

weasel was mounted by the cableshoisting drum, A number of
short iron rods connected the trackless left rear sprocket
of the‘weasel' to the fly wheel of the defunct steam engine
once used to raise the skip.

The fly***^eel was connected to

the cable drum.

The door of the adjacent cabin stood open, and a
sign on the table read^ "please sign the register.
Ing on a ditch up by the lake."

I’m work?^

The cabin was neat^and its

shelves were lined with canned goods.

I signed and went

looking for the mechanical wizard tj^t was responsible for
all the Hube Goldbera: innovations.
I drove down to the junction and took the main road

to the lake.

There I crossed a ford and headed up a slippery

mud road, looking for the ditch and hence the mine owner.

My

pickup was in ^wheel drive, superT^w, when it failed to
make the last muddy hill.

After a short sideways slide

I

�sot the vehicle headed back down, reallz,ft» -feha^ I had

made the only recent tracks and that no one was up that

hill anyway.
Back at the mine

two

John Hahn and Barry Davis, the

I had sousrht in vain, were finished with their

ditch work and were relaxing over a cup of coffee.

I was

invited to help empty the pot.

a&gt;
John Hahn,

served, in the artillery

HCy^alwavs had a desire to own his own mine.
Forest Queen
He and his brother bought the
a number of years back.
for thirty years.

While John finished his thirty years, his brother worked the

mine,—"Pound some good ore," said John.

"Up to

ounces

a ton, down on the third level."]/It was the two brothers
*hat rigged up the cars, belts^and weasel.

)

the old steam tractor.

’^6."

I asked about

"Got the old steam engine back in

John isn't much for words.

You ask a question and

you get a grin, and he hands you a map or a book to look it
up “ only occasionally resorting to (words.

I asked if he had done any mining before,

"No —

always wanted to — sort of a hobby,"

"You don't go down these old shafts alone, do you?"

"Sure."
"Isn't that pretty dangerous?"

"Not smart enough to be scared," John replied.
Barry Davis, John's young friend, nodded agreement.

2-37

�"Barry, I suppose you stay up topside to help
&lt;9

out if John gets In trouble;"

"No, we go down together*^- we both get a kick
out of It."

"You guys are nuts I"
"Yes."

Some of the old literature John pushed at me be^
tween cups of coffee contained glowing reports of a much

younger Forest Queen Mine.
ground on each shaft.

At one time

men were undef?^

Pockets of wire silver were common.

Five thousand dollars worth of silver was knocked down in
a single blast.

The Chloride shaft
Mountain

at the foot of nearby Ruby

was the object of some fancy promotion.

In I9OO,

at the end of the silver boom, the English owner was awakened
by the shaft boss and told of a rich pocket just uncovered.

As the story goehuge gobs of wire silver hung from the
tunnel roof — and ^00 pounds of nearly pure silver
pulled out. Later the straw|boss bought the raine^
then

sold it at a profit by retellinB: the old story — slightly

improved.

The new owner failed to find any sign of silver,

let alone "wire silver hanging in gobs."

A number of mines were promotional in nature, rather
than productive.

The Davy Crocket, Boomerang, Priceless,

�Last Chance, and. I'4ountain Gera ran into isolated pockets
but none really paid off.

of ore

Bill Fisher found silver at the Forest Queen

in 1879.

The camp that grew up on the flats was originally

called '^uby.'^ The rush occurred in midwinter, and cabins

had to be built quickly.

Trees were cut down while deep

snow lay on the yround.

In the spring, numerous (^^:foot

stumps appeared.
Later, when the town grew, it was renamed after

one of its founders, Dick Irwin,

A promoter sold lots just
five- and
called Ruby, promising 5"

south of town at a second site
six-story
6 t^ory buildings.
He skipped town, and the second Ruby was

swallowed up by Irwin.
At its peak in 1881, the population was close to
3,000.

It seemed to be a permanent town.

Perhaps not a

"helldorado ” butyy accord Ing to the newspaper, at least an

"eldorado."
The editor of the town's paper, JUfhe 31k Mountain

Pilot, was a strange character.

He laid out the town cemetery,

then became its first resident a few days later after he was
killed dynamiting fish.

The town had
mill.

churches, © sawmills, and a stamp

Lots sold for up to S5.000 each.

to frequent sale.

Mines were subject

When it became evident that only a few

�shafts led to paying deposits, sales slacked, and the

promoters left town.

An elite social group

called the

Irwin Club, famous for entertaining two presidents, fell

from a carefully selected membership of 100 in 1881
meager

in 1884.

to a .

3y 1909 the town was deserted.

John Hahn spends his winters in Boulder, Colora^

do.

Otherwise^he is busy preoaring to drill a tunnel into

the mine from below.
that manner.

He figures to dewater the mine in

Some of the bestspaying ore is now under

several hundred feet of water.

I inquired a a—'

how he could tunnel into such a

highs.pressure spot without being drowned in the resulting deluge

"OhyLthat's not too difficult."
"I suppose

going to get help to drive the

tunnel?"

"No," he replied.
"That's pretty dangerous, isn’t it?"

"Yes."

"Why do you keep doing it?"
"Well -- it’s a hobby — I like it."

He paused,

then added, "Don’t you have any hobbies?"

"Yeahjw^I'm building a bi£^ane in my garage."

John didn’t say a damned thing — just sat there
drinking coffee and grinning.

2-, I —

MAP NOTE:

“hie townsite and nearby mines are at the jnndatan juncture

of the Mt# Axtell, ^dorado, and the 0h-Be-Joyful,C&lt;4orado 7’2 minute mpps#

�J GOTHIC CITY, COLORADqEL

Truman Blacett found silver at the foot of

Gothic Mountain in the fall of I878.

He crubbed out

several hundred dollars worth of wire silver before vac^

ting the high country for the winter.

Somehow his secret got out, and the next sprincr
a hundred
tents were pitched on the flats of Sast River near
Blacett's claim.

The area was 9,500 feet above sea level

and still snow-covered.

Tents pitched temporarily on snow

had to be reset when the sun dried the ground.

Within four months, I70 "permanent” structures
were up, and. as one wag put ita
»
&gt;
to the naked eye.”

"the camo became visible

By the time Samuel Wail (Weil) marked out boun^
darles and auplied for a town natent, the population had

soared to 1,000.

Within

months the settlement had grown

to a si^^ble town with a butcher shop, hotel, two sawmills,
and several stores.

Indeed, the residents claimed it was

not merely a town ~ it was GOTHIC CITY, the fastest growing

piece of real estate in the world.

Within two years

the town reached 8,000 popula/^

tion (according to the promoters) and may even have hit the
3,000 mark by accurate count.

It now had two hotels, a tovAin

hall, two newspapers, and yet another newspaper editor was

�movinia; in a third press.

There were two schools

and a

preacher in residence, busily attempting to neutralize the

effects of two dance halls and

half a dozen saloons.

Gothic City was one of the wildest towns in
Colorado.

Its red-light district was unequalled.

Strangely

enough, only one murder and one lynching were recorded during

the

or

years that the city boomed.
In 1884 the veins thinned and the ore wouldn't

pay expenses.

Gothic City died almost as fast as it

The last election for mayor was between two newspaper editors.

The winner, G. H. Judd, found himself mayor of a chost town.

He liked it and assumed jurisdiction over all the ghost
towns in the area.

When he died, ashes of his cremated body

were spread across the nearly barren flats of Gothic City.
The old town is called *^othic*^now — there is

little excuse to add "city^ The town hall and an old pay

shack stand on main street, braced with proos and steel tie
rods.

Scattered about are a few of the original cabins.

The Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratories have taken over

the town as a summer teaching camp and research center.
This science camp, like many of its kind, serves best as a
vacation retreat for weary nrofessors.

Some of them are

quite well known.
The summer climate in the area is delightful.
The winters bring heavy snows

the tyu!? ideal for skiinv.

�A ski resort is presently undergoing rapid expansion at a
point between Gothic and Crested Butte,

It is booming much

like Gothic City did 100 years ago.

MAP NOTE*

The Mount Axtell and the 0-3e-Joyful, Colorado^

topographic maps are both required to study the area properly

2^0

�J COLORADO AaSA 3

3

ST.

ELMO, CQLOaADQC

Like most mines, the Mary Murphy was on an
Impossible site.

You had to crawl to It^and if you

weren’t careful

you could fall out of it.

A miles long

tramway was built from the road on Chalk Greek, 1,700 feet

up the Slone*to the mine at a lofty elevation of 12,100
/

feet.
The small town of Romley sprouted at the lower

end of the tramway.

Three miles down^tream^at a more

liveable altitude, the town of Forest City was hacked out

of the heavy timber.

Most of the mine employees chose to

live in the lower town.

In 1880 the townspeople of Forest City voted to
incorporate.

The postal department refused to accept the

town’s name, due to jste duplicate use in several other

states in the mid^nst

and on the Pacific coast.

townfolk settled on

Elmo,’’^after the title and hero

The

of a bests selling novel by A. S. Wilson.
The town had ^00 residents at the time

destined to grow rapidly.

nearly two thousand.

but was

By 1881 the population reached

There was no shortage of wood, for

the timber cleared from a hornedite provided the saw logs
for the house.

6&lt;&lt;e/er

�The Denver and Rio Grande had cooperated with

the Union Pacific to run a rail line up Chalk Greek to
St. Bimo, and work was in pros:ress on an extension up the
continental
creek to Homley. The Intent was to cross tbe./nvide via
A
an j^OO:foot tunnel, then drop down to the town of Gunnison.

The tunnel was completed in 1882.

The new line

was hailed as a great achievement — until the first snow

fell.

Avalanches were so bad that the windows on the

passenger coaches had to be boarded up.

Snow and rocks

frequently banned the sides of the cars.

Some passengers

appreciated the fact that they couldn't see out.

On the

downhill^eastern run through the tunnel, the train would

pick up speed in order to blast through the waual heavy
usually
drift^found just above Romley. Often the train would run

under the drift and bog down.

Trainmen would climb atop

the observation car and run forward "shovel in hand" to
open a smoke^hole before the engineer and fireman suffocated.

One summer day

Mark Twain rode a fla^^ar down the grade,

with one of the road bosses acting as brakeman.

A bit of

brake trouble added a new dimension to the outing.

It was

a wild ride, but the view throuvh the "one big window" was

unsurpassed.
St, Slmo quickly turned into a Saturday night

hell-raising town.

It had (^hotels, a newspaper, numerous

saloons, and no church.

Sventually a school was built.

�Ohuroh services were occasionally held there on Sundays.
The Gunnison, Aspen, and Tin Gup Sta^^e Lines ran dailv trips

from St. Elmo, up over Tin Gup Pass,^on down to the sister
boomTown of Tin Gup.

Just below St. Elmo, less than a mile
the creek, was the smeltins: town of Iron Gity.

and across
Never much

for size, it became hard up for business when the railroad

arrived.

It lasted only two years.

furnished the coup de grace.

A flood on Chalk Greek

Now it's a pretty nice spot

to fish.

Only two of the fifty mines in the area were opera^
ting in I897.

The railroad ceased operation in 1911^^and the

tracks were torn up in 1926.

The town died that year, but

the post office hung on until 1952.

It’s a beautiful ghost town now.

Most of the build?

ings are left, and there is no misplaced commercialism.
country store operates much in the old style.

One

It comes to

life somewhat each winter when the snc)^mobilers gather on
week^nc^s to run the slopes above town.

Occasionally a snow^

cat races down the old railroad grade in pale imitation of
Mark Twain's thrilling ride.

MAP NOTE*

St. Elmo is shown on the Garfield, Colorado^

15 minute United States Geological Survey topographic map
—

A/7

�TURR 5T,

□LJaADoC.
I’m lost without a map.

a map I

Sometimes I’m lost.with

A trip into the upside:d:own country above Salida,

Colorado, was not in my plans, and my map file did not in-/

elude the Came ron Mountain topographic map.

And in this case

even with the map I would have been lost.

At least the towns

of Calumet and Wolf, both near Turret, would always have been

lost to me, since neither is shown.on the Cameron map
All three of the towns would have remained unknown

to me if I hadn't run across a gent named Dave Smith,

Dave

operates a Jeep tour service out of Salida, Colorado.

We

were discussinjr items of mutual interest

ghost towns —

when Dave asked if I had ever heard of Turret.

I hadn’t, so

he twisted the barb a little by adding, "How about Calumet?"

"Nope."
"And Wolf?

There’s not a writer in the country

ever even heard of that townI"

We left the next morning with a regular tour party.
Lacking a map, I busily sketched the way in. In the process
of sketching a map on @different pages of a notebook, I

managed to botch the Job properly.

I didn’t know where I

was\ but Dave did, and he was enjoying every mile of it.
Wolf and Calumet are to the right of the quarry
and probably in Sections 21 and 2i|-y^respectively, on the

•3^1

�aforementioned map.

Turret Is to the left of the quarry

and on up a wellsused road.

The road enters Turret at right angles to and in

the middle of the town's deserted main street.

To the left

are the old post office and the former Turner residence^with
T

mine behind,

A number of other bulldln&lt;?s are nearby., some

of which were saloons, others houses of ill fame, and still
others

combinations of the two.
Some distance to the right are the courthouse and

main business district of town.

On the hill above and to the

south are the rock foundations of Turret’s most popular

speakeasy, noted for its expansive underground moonshine

storage facilities.

The tin:covered hip roof of the coutthouse gave
protection to the mayor's office, sheriff's office, and jail.

Just down the slope

the two-story log hotel, '^e Gregory,

sported walls papered with 1902 issues of the town's news­
caper, the "^old Belt."^ Cat Gulch runs west through town,

parallel to the street.

In places

the stores was above the gulch

the boardwalk fronting

and served as a bridge as

well as a walkway.

In 1892

along the gulch.

the town was actually

camps strung out

At the high end was Adams Gamp, then

Minneapolis, then South Turret

or Klondike.

One historian

states that the town was platted in 189? under the name of

�Gamp Austin.

The place was officially named Turret in

1899» the year the town boomed.

Population always varied

with the seasons, with more than a thousand citizens in

town during the summers of 1899 and I9OO.
In 1900

the mines revealed the shallow nature of

their veins, and the town’s future

dimmed.

Some gold and

copper mining continued at the Independence Mine until 1916,

but the best producers ^he Golden Wonder, Mie Gold Bug, and
^e Monongahela'^ were worked out.

The post office miracui^^

lously survived until 19^1.

MAP NOTE*

Turret is on the Cameron Mountain, Colorado^15

minute United States Geological Survey topograph map.

�1CALUMST, COLORADO

i4uoh of the road from Salida to Calumet Is
coincident with the grade of one of the most unusual rail

lines ever built In Colorado.

The Denver and Hio Grande

built the spur to serve the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company.

The grade was set at seven per cent, more than double the

normal slope.

On the way up to the mines at Calumet

cou

lings on the train had a tendency to yield, resulting in
wildly careening rides down the hill.

accidents, empty cars were pushed upj

were "held back" by the engine.

To prevent such
when filled, they

Passengers were permitted

to ride only after signing a release.

Prom Calumet

passel^*

gers could continue via the Turret, ’,/hitehorn^and Salida

Stage Line,

The stage station for that line is one of the

best remnants left in town.

More than

feet long, it had.

2-5/

a forsre at one end and was built into and around a huge rock

at the opposite northeast end.

It is the longest log structure

this observer has had the opportunity to photograph.

A

second log building and an outhouse make up the balance of
Calumet today.

At one time it was a busy company town, fur«*

nishing much of the iron ore for the smelters at Pueblo,.
Colorado.

The Calumet Mine, for which the town was named,
was one of the deepest in the world prior to 19OO.

The

�shaft was started In 1889

and In 1898 reached the end of

the rich raas-netlc iron ore deposits at a depth of 4,900

feet.

Marble

found in the vicinity

kept the town and

the railroad in business for a time, but for all practical
purposes

the life blood of Calumet flowed downhill with

the last load of magnetite.

MAP NOTSi

Calmet is not shown on the Cameron Mountain,

ColoradOy^l5 minute United States Geological Survey
topographic map.

A building or two that might repre­

sent the town aire shown in Section 24.

�COLORADO r

J

N'o one seems to know the history of the town of
whether
Wolf, or^indeed,
that is the correct name for the community

Dave Smith

of Salida, Colorado, happened upon it some years

ago while jeepzexploring in the area.

He prowled about and

found evidence of a main street and a dozen buildings, four

or five of which still stand.

The largest structure, a

smelter, contains an old boiler, a forge, and work tables.
On the wall is written:

^^Faint signs of Inteyecting streets can be made out.
nearly six inches in diameter grow in old ruts.

Trees

Half a dozen

cabins stand in varvlnor states of decay.
An outhouse tilts on its foundation, threatening to

fall into its own opening and self-destruct.
M
substitute
neatly carpeted — a eampr^migod fur lining.

Its seat is

On one visit to the old town, Dave met a miner

working on a claim.4n- tho arua.

He was freshly returned

from Alaska and was carrying out the required work to legally
maintain his mine.

He had scant information to offer con^_

cerning the town.

He had heard that it boomed about I898

and had a population of 200 at that time.

eased

When the boom

mining and smelting the gold taken
whether
The miner did not know
the town was

(^^folk remained,

from shafts nearby.

called Azolf**^or *^wolf'^ " he’d heard it both wavs.

�Recently a rancher put cattle in the area.

He

provided water for the stock by digging in a number of old

bath tjibs.

3xcept for the cattle tracks nearby, the sunken

bathTubs would seem to add one more puzzle to the already

mysterious town.

MAP WOTS*

, Colorado,
Wolf is not shown on the Cameron Mountaln^^lS minute

United States Geological Survey topographic mapj however, it
is probably within the bounds of Section 21.

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                    <text>PAET IV

NEW MEXICO

�X

Of the string of perhaps a dozen Inactive coal-.mining

communities in the Raton area, Gardiner is one of the few
open to visitationr —fiMPA has enough surviving remnants to
make a tour of the grounds worthwhile.
Originally

the town was shaped like a capital '‘Ljjt

with one leg extending west along Gardiner Canyon

other pointing north, parallel to Coal Canyon.

and the

The western

leg was the residential part of town, while the northern^

industrial portion\contained the mines, shops*and coke ovens.
The coke ovens, each about

feet in diameter, ran in four

parallely^redibrick rows, each a quarter of a mile long.

®he

more than 300 ovens processed coal from a number of mines
that bored into the hill Immediately to the west.

Tunnel

portals dot the hillside, and*from one of the larger openings.
heavy cables emerge to lie slack upon the ground.

Years ago

the cables stretched taunt overhead, supporting buckets that

carried waste rock to the dump

Over the years

and coal to the loading chutes.

rainwater has eroded the j/tittSs dumps, adding

red streaks of iron oxide to the blues and greens of the waste
rock.
Slag heaps and coal piles have washed out to form

low mounds on the flats below the mine.

The finely powdered

�coal that usually permeates the buildings and grounds of
active coal towns has been cleansed by rain.

the old lamp house are remarkably clean.

Remains of

The onoe=blackened

stucco appears wow fro ba almost white.
The residential portion of town Is sprinkled with

foundations, windowless walls.and collapsed roofs.

creek

Across the

a row of adobe walls standSlwlthout roofs, apparently

the residue of a ravaging fire.

Several of the buildings at

the center of town seemed to be In livable condition.

As I

approached, a bearded gentleman emerged from one of the

i

homes and walked toward me.

lA
He was short — just four Inches over five feet.
He was on the stocky side, carrying a smooth outside curve

on the front.

white.

His full beard and mustache were a silvery

His nose was small and rounded

and his complexion ruddy

He Introduced himself as Tom Hay

and seemed relieved

when I passed up the obvious opportunity to comment on his

resemblance to Santa Claus.

Thomas Hay and his 33tyear.-old son (both bachelors)
are the sole, residents of town.

Being just past

himself, Tom makes no claim of being an
least not for a few years,"
he was eight years old.

ghost town nearby.

that town.too.

years
~ "at

has lived In the area since

His folks lived In Brilliant, another

"We were the last ones to move out of

Moved from Brilliant down here to Gardiner.

�now we’re the only ones living here.^'lrrom pointed down the

hill toward some pillars marking the site of a oncexlmposlng
"That was the hospital down there.

structure.

It was

pretty fancy compared to most of the buildings.
were made of adobe."

adobe walls?

He pointed across the creek.

That was the colored section.

*See those

A big part of

the town was Negro. Another part was Italian.

separated."

Lot of them

They all kept

"Over there

Tom Indicated the sections of town.

was a bunch of shotgun houses ~ you know ~ three houses
together."

Tom swiveled to face his own home.

old Doc’s Jiouse now.

"Live In the

Not so fancy as the hospital was, but

It’s still pretty stout."
I opened two wells chilled examples of the brewers’
art, fresh from the camper’s Ice^^x, and Tom warmed to his

subject,

"The town always was a company town.
an old S.L.H.M. and P, town.

place.

Used to be

Now Kaiser Steel owns the

They own pretty near all the coal towns up and down

the line,"
I asked about the abbreviations he had used.
"The St. Louis, Rocky Mountaln^and Pacific Company,

They made coke mostly ~ sold coal too, of course.

was used for smelting copper.

The coke

That’s what killed the town

someone Invented a new wayto smelt copper without using coke."

�With the evening light gone, I arranged to meet

Tom the next day, then headed the three miles back to

the town of Raton

and the public Jfclbrary, to learn more of

the history of Gardiner.
James T. Gardiner was a railroad geologist, ever on

the lookout for coal deposits.

He Inventoried the deposits on

the east slope of the hills Just west of Raton.

The best un,*"

developed coal deposits were claimed by Gardiner in the name
of the Sante Pe Railroad.

Others, previously located by

Mess|rs, Pels and Wigham, were obtained by trading land for
claiming rights.
__
Mine
0In 1881 the Blossburgy^( later called the &lt;Dld Gardiner
NlriM was in full operation.

More mines were opened along the

slope, and a number of towns grew around the best producers.
Gardiner grew around the coal mine of the same name.

sprouted two miles to the north.

Blossburg

Northwest of Blossburg, up

Dillon Canyon, were the towns of Willow and Swastika.

The

last two towns were later renamed Brilliant I and Brilliant II.
The swastika symbol, made infamous by the Nazi move?'

ment in Germany, was earlier considered a good luck sign. .
Swastikas were laid up in raised brick along the cornice of one
of the most imposing buildings in nearby Raton.

were a trademark of the Swastika Coal Company^.

The symbols

During the

second World War, the owners of the buildings were kept busy

explalnintr just why "those Nazi slgn^^were up there.

�Gardiner had Its wild tlmes^ln spite of the tight
company control of the town.

In fact, it was company policy

to meet threat with counter/^reat, especially in the event of

a miners’ strike.

The biggest strike occurred during the boom

years of Gardiner when a thousand folk lived in town

miners worked in the area.

and

yoo

The company met the strike headxon

by sending camp manager Wiggins to Birmingham, Alabama.to hire

a troop of Negro workers to come in and break the strike by
in place of the strikers.

goAn»

Competition for jobs added to racial tensions, and
fights occurred with regularity in spite of rigid segregation.
The Negroes, Irish, Italians, and yWfiltes worked and played

separately, merging occasionally to attack or repel an opposing

group or combine,

Joe Dillslo Installed a wooden partition in

his saloon to separate the customers.

Signs indicated that one

side was for "Negroes^ the other side for "Cosmopolitans^^
No one walked the streets alone after dark.

came and went in groups.

Customers

In spite of such precautions, the number

of tombstones and unmarked mounds in the cemetery Increased

alarmingly.
After World War II, demand for coal decreased rapidly.

Coke, once in great demand by copper smelters, was now used in
reduced quantities only by a few zinc refiners.

According to Tom Hay, the town of Gardiner had been
a near ghost for a number of years before folding completely in

�19*5^.

Many of the houses In Gardiner had already been moved

to nearby towns.

A number of deserted buildings burned down

When the company packed up all

its machinery.

right down to the hand tools in the machine shop, the few

remaining residents realized that Gardiner was done for

Now, Just twenty years later, coal is on the comeback
Kaiser Steel recently purchased the town.

Maybe there is hope

for Gardiner yet

j MAP NOTE*

Gardiner is shown on the Raton, New Mexico^ 15 minute

! united States Geological Surrey topographic map.

�IDAWSON, NSW MEXICO/
When J. B. Dawson bought the land surrounding the

Vermejo Biver at the point where it leaves the hills and

meanders out upon the flats, he fully expected to receive
3^00 acres for the #3700 he Invested.
In 1869 from Lucian Maxwell.

He bought the land

The land was » part of the

old Beaubien and Miranda Grant Lands now referred to as
the Maxwell Grant,
Dawson’s deal with Maxwell was oral ~ that’s

the way Maxwell did business.

Dawson had no record of the

sale, and*when called upon to prove ownership, found himself
I
in danger of losing his thousand acres. Luckily Dawson’s

lawyer proved his client’s ownership

and found records of

the transaction in some of Maxwell’s papers.

scribed was not 1,000 acres

The land de*7^

but 20,0001

Dawson had a particular affection for his holdings.
The land had plenty of water, was wells grown with trees and

grass, and had an outcrop of highe-grade coal.
to cut wood

Dawson hated

and took particular delight in heating his ranch

ho|^e without laboring on the blister end of an axe handle.
Neighbors were soon asking for coal, and before long

Dawson’

coal sales became more important than raising livestock.
Just after the turn of the century, Dawson and

an adjoining neighbor made a deal with a railroad~baoked
fuel company.

In exchange for nearly half a million dollars.

�the fuel company obtained rights to all the coal

and owner/*^

ship of a section of land for a townslte'JJlater to be called

Dawson, of course.

Dawson’s wife was given exclusive rights

to all milk sales In the town for the following

years.

The mining of coal on a large scale began In 1901.

Dawson numbered 200 citizens by year's end
the following year.

By I903

the town had Its own doctor,

newspaper, hotel, and fancy theaty^.
passed the 2,000 mark.
over

and grew to 600

By I905

the population

When the Phelps Dodge Company took

they expanded operations^ and the population jumped to

nearly 4,000.

Dawson became the largest coal town In the/8^ate.

In 1903 a small hint of future disaster was felt when
a fire trapped three men In shaft number one.

Rescue teams

had almost reached the men when explosions rocked the mine.

Cave-Ins burled the trapped miners.

The would-be rescuers,

badly burned, escaped with their lives.
Dawson was a model company town, and the mining
practices were said to be the most up^toidate In the nation.

Since the disaster of I903, '^afety-^had been the motto.

Rescue

teams won top honors In area competition.

In 1913. disaster struoki
Three hundred men were trapped.

Mine No. 2 exploded.

Rescue teams went Into action.

Two members died attempting to reach the trapped men.

following day
V

The

the rescue team brought ^^men out alive.

Shifts of miners, wearing primitive oxycren masks, ventured 3,000

�feet down the shaft to help clear the debris leading to the
trapped men.

Hope soared when a mule was found alive.

Efforts

were redoubled, and a lone miner was found trappyftafely in a
side tunnel.

But the effort, however heroic, was too late.

The missing two hundgod

^.63 ataty thraB men were found dead.

A special section in the cemetery soon held 263 crosses.
The explosion had been caused by setting off a

dynamite blast before the coal dust from the last charge had

settled.

The coal dust ignited

and in turn loosened more

dust to form a traveling/j?oaring inferno that snaked through

the shaft, causing cave-ins and releasing pockets of poisonous
gas.

The traveling detonation ended only when the fires roared

out of the tunnel mouth.

Ten years later

some mine cars jumped track and

knocked down some hightvoltage wires.

The sudden flash of the

electrical discharge was all it totek to set off a second travel^
ing explosion of coal dust.

One hundred and twenty-two men

died, and the crosses in the cemetery, row on row, now numbered
a heartbreaking thgoo hundrod and

Ivtw

Fifty years have passed, but standing amid the
crosses

one can still feel a residue of the sorrow experienced

on the two occasions when the whole town stood at graveside.

Pat Garcia felt a different kind of sorrow.

Pat

and I had taken parallel but separate paths through town.

Where I stopped to take photographs, he stopped and looked.

�and often dropped his head in thought*

I saw him again at a

distance, poking about the old coke ovens.

At the cemetery we

found ourselves leaning on the same fence.

He had a poignant

story to tell.

Pat Garcia was born in Dawson in 1933.
with other miners’ kids.

He grew up

He recalled bragging that his dad

worked in the ’’long shaft" ~ the one that went five miles
under the mountain.

His childhood was a particularly happy

one, especially the years spent in hlgljsohool.
left town.

In 1950 Pat

That same year, Phelps Dodge, owners of the town

and mine, ceased operations.

Much of the town was demolished

to save taxes,

Now Pat Garcia had returned to the hometown of

his childhood.

He found his parent’s house gone.

his whole town was gone.

Not a single old school pal stood

on the corner ready to swap memories.

had jumped track.

Indeed,

It was as though time

For Pat, seventeen years of memories were

out of reach, never to be revisited.

MAP NOTE*Dawson is shown on the Cimarron, New Mexico^l5

minute United States Geological Survey topographic map.
The 15xminute Koehler, New Mexico^ map is necessary to make

out the route to Dawson,

�COLFAX, NSW MEXICOP

Developers of the St, Louis, Rocky Mountain and
Pacific Railroad created the town by laying out ^00 lots.

Each lot was 25 feet by 14o feet

and priced at $140 each,

with discotxnts for quantity purchases.

Lots sold slowly,

and the "town" called Vermejo Junction looked like a loser.

In 1908 the New Mexico Sales Company took over
and announced.a second railroad would pass through town.

In

addition, a tract of fagty t^uaond acres of Irrigated land
was to be made available on the flats below town.
was touted as ideal for growing sugar beets.

The land

At the same

time, A. C. Cox announced plans to build a mult^^toried

hotel.

In spite of the grand plans, lots in town sold slowly.

Many agents, when they did sell a few lots, kept the money and
skipped town.

The January 8, I909 issue of SCfie Raton Range

reported that one J. W. O'Brien had sold his holdings in town

to other parties and now couldn’t be found.

Furthermore, it

was determined that he^never owned a single one of the lots

he sold.

In spite of the small number of residents, Charles
Glasgow built a hotel, the Clm^arron Lumber Company opened a

yard, and a school was built on the hill west of town.

A

post office was established, and promoters claimed the town

was booming.

Actually, the town was in a constant struggle
&amp;
to maintain its exlstf^nce.

�The post office was shut down in 1921, but the

school and the store continued operating.

A new sidewalk

was laid down In front of the brick store In 1925,

In

1927, there was a bit of excitement when a "marauder" r^^^
portedly entered town and out the hose on the lone gas pump.

The school shut down in 1939» and the kids were

hauled to classes in Dawson^Q miles away.

In spite of the

closures, promoters claimed the town was growing.
In 1967, when the town was known to be deserted,

reporters in state newspapers still claimed 100 citizens.
Historian F, Stanley claimed the same year that Colfax was

going to be "reborn into actlvltyf^

Dawson by the Kaiser Company,

He cited the purchase

He envisioned many employees

of the Kaiser Company building^ homesjln Colfax,

In 197^

the place was completely deserted.

However, if you look hard enough

you will probably find a

report in some newspaper that lots are selling like hot cakes

and the population of town will soon pass the one hundred mark

MAP NOTE*

Colfax is shown on the 1915 Koehler, New Mexico^

15 minute United States Geological Survey topbcrraphlo map.

END NEW MEXICO AREA 1

�More than two thousand years ago, Indians found
deposits of pale blue rock in the little pointed hills by
Mount Ghalchlchultl.

The turquoise was highly valued as a

sacred stone capable of protecting its bearer from all evil.
The open pit dug by the Indians in !*•-pursuit of the
blue charm stone is likely the first mining effort of western
man.

Measuring 250 feet wide and up to 100 feet deep, the pit

was the result of many years of primitive excavation.

Stone

hammers and wooden wedges were used to loosen projecting rock.
Stubborn areas were heated by fire, then fractured with cold
water.

The famous Mina ^1 Tiro (Mine of the Shaft) was
somewhere in the area, near the open pit,
Indian slave labor

Spaniards using

pursued the silver deposits by means of

vertical shafts aeo^oed by notched log ladders.

The digging

was confined to horizontal tunnels when the underground water

level was reached.

Some evidence indicates that skin canoes

were used to transport ore at the lowest level.

Wfcen the

Indians rebelled against the Spatosh in 1680, the oppressors
were killed and the shaft of the Mina ^1 Tiro was filled in.
The exact location of the mine has since remained a mystery.

— /6o

Iff

�Americans ’*alscovered’^ silver

During
in the little hills^,

small boom ensued, t^^ grew to full

proportion when the Santa Pe built its tracks through the

area in 1879.

Prospectors flooded the region.

A camp called

Cerrillos grew at the point where the tracks met the Galisteo
Hlver. Turquoise was *^iscovered^^nd mlninc: of the semi^

?
precious stone became big business.

*___
Nearly a million dollars

worth was shipped to market each year during the eighties.

Cerrillos, or los Cerrillos, grew rapidly during
that period.

At its peak

the town had four hotels, separated

by twenty saloons fronting three sides of the town plaza.
The mine

Tiffany’s Saloon became famous for its fine food.

of the same name, known for its highe quality turquoise^pro^^

vlded stones for the crown jewels of Spain.
By 1890

Cerrillos had begun its decline.

Mining of

silver and other precious me^s was diminishing, and by 19OO
nearly all the mines had folded.

The mining of turquoise con?

tinned until the 192^^.
Exceut for the frequent alteration of the outskirts of

town by the flooding,Galisteo River, Cerrillos has changed little
since the mining ceased.

The generally dry bed of the Galisteo

River comes to life each spring, sometimes overflowing as if in

compensation for its brief yearly taste of life.

Each year the

flood is anticipated, suffered through, then cleaned up after,

Thj^ center of town stands on high ground and has escaped flood
damage.

Fire has destroyed some of the places of business, but

the remaining buildings fill two sides of the central plaza.

�Some of the buildlna^s have signs over their doors that seem

oddly new and out of place, the result of a brief Int^^ptlon
In the town's quiet history.

Disney Studios chose Gerrlllos for the filming of
^The Nine Lives of 51 fego Baca. .

Slfego, a famous New Mexican

lived through a barrage of more than ^00 shots

gunfighter,

fired over a period of 33 hours, while lying on the floor of a
small shack.
the movie

The gunfight

which formed the central theme of

actually took place at Frisco, New Mexico.

The

Disney crew determined that Gerrlllos looked more^Uke the
"real thlng^ and proceeded to "Improve" It by dressing up the

false fronts and tacking up newly painted signs.

The owner of

the general store tn taww has since torn down the board that
named the store

and reinstalled one that says "Mitchell's^

while preserving the large portion that reads "General StoreJ^
A sign over one of the hotels still reads "Prlsco(^
The town comes to life each week end when visitors

from the Santa Pe and Albuquerque areas stop In for a little
sightseeing, a meal at Tiffany's, and perhaps an evening at

the local opera house.

Luckily

I visited Um town In mld^ek, when Its

true nature was displayed.

The tourist businesses were closed.

The general store was closed, but a sign stated It would open
at 10 a.5,

Two young boys stood In front waiting for the doors

to be unlocked

that morning.

the only excitement

ba expected In town

�I peeked In the window of the corner saloon.

An

old man, hand shaded over his eyes, peeked back at me.

It

was obvious that he lived there

and I had infringed on his

privacy.
Down the street half a block, a handsome woman
stepped from the hotel, broom In hand.
She smiled, shifted
her chew to the other cheek, spat, and said *Aiello*^

The storekeeper opened his doors, and a crowd of
^or ^appeared.

The flurry of activity soon ended.

Outside

the two young lads wandered over, kicking plumes of dust.

I asked them about the old burnedtout rook and
dobe

building down the block.

affee* that it had burned down.

YSncy Perea answered

the

"The fire trucks came all

the way from Santa Pe ~ too late ~ we bought our own fire

truck just this year."

Yancy's accent indicated he would be far more at
home speaking Spanish.
I asked about his pal.
"Oh, him?
M
He's Gene — Gene Vick,
He's twelve and I'm twelve,"
The two youngsters had comments on almost every

subject,

I learned the details of the last flood (one of

the worst ever) and of the new smelter on the hill

the Tiffany Saloon was 101 years old.

and that

Gene proudly read

I fg

�aloud the information sign erected in the plaza,

Yancy Jumped

in where he could.

I commented on the number of long-haired people
in town,

"Yeah — them^Hippies,

There’s almost as many of

them in town as there is people I" claimed Gene,
"What do they do for a living?"
Yanoy looked up and squinted a bit as if he

giving the question some hard thought,
He thought a bit,

"Some works,"

"And some steals,"

Gene bobbed his head in agreement.

note*

(
\

"Some don’t do nuthin’,"

He looked at me seriously,

The Madrid, New Mexico^ 15 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows Cerrillos and
Mount Chalchihuitl 3 miles to the north.

�1MADRID, NSW MEXICO L

Anthracite, the hard form of combust|^ble carbon,
is found In Just three places in the United States:

a small

area in Pennsylvania, an equally small region in Western

Colorado, and strung out along several canyons within @miles
of Madrid, New Mexico.

The deposits at Madrid are unique in

that bituminous, the soft variety of coal, is found adjacent
to

anthracite.

At the No. 1 mine of the Cerrillos coal^

field, bituminous was dug from the left side of the shaft,

anthracite from the right.

It was thse* soft coal that attracted the Santa Pe
Railway to the head of Waldo Gulch, a few miles north of the
tiny settlement of Madrid,

In 1882

a spur was run up the

canyon a few miles from a point Just west of Cerrillos.
Madrid continued the mining of coal on a "one mule" 9(Bale,
while huge quantities of bituminous coal were taken from

Waldo Canyon,

Soon the demand for the cleanersburning hard

coal grew, and in 1889

Madrid.

the Santa Pe extended the spur to

New tunnels were dug to reveal seams of both hard

and soft coal.

Most of Waldo moved to Madrid.

Seven years later

the railroad leased its coals

mining operation to the Colorado Puel and Iron Company of
Pueblo, Colorado.

The coal seams were difficult to work.

Only two to four feet thick, they sloped downward at

decrees, at the same time leaning to the side.

Mining methods

�of the time required removal of huge amounts of waste rock.

When the main bituminous mine caught fire, the company gave

The mines closed

up what had become a marginal operation.

without warning, and three thousand citizens were suddenly
without sustenance.
Within a short time

George Kaserman, of the

Hahn Coal Company in Albuquerque, bought the operation
"town and all,"

Under Kaserman’s direction

become a respected company town.

Madrid grew to

Mew mining methods were employed

and coal production Increased steadily over the years.
1928

In

more than 183,000 tons were shipped.
Prom all indications, Madrid was a great place to

live.

Everything in town was owned by the company.

All the

houses, the stores, and even the churches were companyeowned.
You bought only what the company sold in its stores, or you
went out of town to make your purchase.

You repaired/the

car that you bought from the company stor^^n a company garag^
and^^^ it on gasoline the company sold you at prices set by

the company.

For the most part

the prices were fair and

services reasonable.

According to Joe Huber, son of the company superln-^"^
tendent, employees were occasionally "encouraged to go in debt"

by purchasing a car or some other expensive item.

The manag^

me nt felt that the man would ’^jork harder,'*^**thus raising coal
production.

It is also true that it made switching Jobs

�difficult.

You had to pay up before you could leave.

What/*

ever the viewpoint, the results were the same.

The company did provide a number of valued services
for reasonable fees.

dollars a month.

Medical expenses cost a mere three

The whole family was covered for all medical

needs'^ except those resulting from fights or childbirth.

Dues

In the local club, with access to meeting rooms, prames, enter^

talnment, occasional dances, and frequent baseball games

Just

cents a month.

And to crown it all, the ultimate in

fringe benefits was given the eaployee when the company furnished

the facilities for employees to brew their own Illegal booze

during th© prohibition years I
The increasing availability of natural gas for home

heating, and the switch from coal to dlesel-flred locomotives,

diminished the demand for coal.

decreased with the demand.

Mining activities in Madrid

Madrid’s Christmas lights, the

finest in the state, were lit for the last time in 1941.

1954

In

coal operations, already dlastically curtailed, were

shut down completely,

A few years later

only @families

lived in a town that once held 4,000.

The number of deserted buildings in town is over?^

whelmincr.

Most of the buildings are of frame construction.

In light of the dry climate, it is surprising that fires have

not destroyed most of the town.

Part of the business district

is fenced off to prevent access, but the fences run only a
short distance.

Anyone willing to walk a mile or so

can

�freely visit the sites of the old Catholic Church, the large
club house, and the many deserted houses that lie on both

sides of the dry wash running north through town.
and an outdoor museum are open for business.

A tavern

Both are

recommended.

MAP NOTEt

The Madrid, New Mexico, 15 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the area In reasonable

detail. The site of the old town of Dolores, eight air miles
to the southeast. Is listed as the *^olores Ranch**^

END AREA 2

�1NBW MEXICO ARSA 3 f
J MQNGQLLQN, NSW MSXICQ f

The sign stated^Mongolion was

miles and that

the road was dangerous for trailers over twenty feet.

The

first 0miles were relatively straight and of gentle slope.

Ahead of me, an elderly gentleman towing a trailer exper^
ienced no difficulty.

Soon the road topped a small rise

and entered the left shoulder of a sizable valley.

The

old gentleman towing the trailer proceeded with only a slight
reduction in speed.

Half a mile ahead

coming down the switchbacks.

I could see a smaller trailer
At the first opportunity

I

passed the trailer ahead of me, andy^shortly met the smaller
trailer coming down the hill.

There was little room to spare.

The shoulders of the blacktop were undercut and crumbled.

I

wondered how the two trailers would fare.
Through the rear^ylew mirror I caught a glimpse of
the two rigs stopped in the middle of the road, headttoshead,
like two rutting elk prepared to lock horns.

Later I learned

that both drivers were notably untalented at backing their
rigs.

Fearing the steep drop-off into the canyon below, they

waited^ blocking the road for several hours
happened by

until a driver

could back one of the rigs to a wide spot.

The road is truly spectacular as it hangs on the
south side of Houston Canyon, then crosses and carves its

-7^7

�precarious way along the opposite wall.

Soon it gentles and

winds north to the slopes of Silver Greek Canyon, where de?*

serted mine structures begin to appear beside the road.

Bending around a high knob, the massive tailings and numerous
Mine
structures of the Fanney^(Fannie and also Fannytake your

choice) iKi«» come into view.
the road at this point

The mine^^^he same height as

but a mile away^ across a canyon more

than 600 feet deep.

The roa^^scends sharply, past the ruins of the

Last Chance Mine, y^crosses a small tributary, then makes a

sharp bend to the right.

Immediately you are in Mongolian,

looking east, up the canyon

and up the narrow confines of

Mongollon’s main street.

Both sides of the street are lined with buildings.

Under the boardwalks of the buildincrs on the right, flow the
normally gentle waters of Silver Creek.

Main Street displays

an increasing number of gaps as you travel its quarter mile

length.

Soon the gaps outnumber the buildings^and the road

swings left and begins to climb.

Several side streets hacked

out of the steep northern slope of the canyon extend parallel

to the main street.

The road branches at the powder house of

the old Fanney Mine.

The right branch leads to the cemetery,

located on one of the rare deposits of dlgsrable soil found in
an area composed primarily of hard rock.

The left branch

leads to a long/^serte^string ofj houses that ends at the

power3jouse and main office of the Fanney Mine.

�For a nominal fee

the huge complex.
worthwhilet

you can take a guided tour of

A number of unusual

makes the tour

the gigantic opening called "The Big Hole Mike"

shaft, the head frame over the ^00= foots deep Panney shaft,
r
the long sorting room with its endless belt, and the lately

2^7

reworked machine shop used in the recent filming of the movie

My Name is Nobody.

The mine is almost directly above town.

Standing on the brink, one must look between his feet to S^jot
The prospectors S^^found the Panney

the roofs of Mongolion.

silver lode must have stood on this spot and enjoyed a similar
view.

Sergeant Cooney, leader of a mapping party out of
Fort Bayard

in 1870, was the first to spot the highly minera^

Ized ledges on Mineral Greek, two miles north of present Mon^

gollon.

Cooney was able to suppress his natural Irish tendency

to tell the world of his fortunate discovery for almost six

years.

He kept the secret until he was mustered out, then, with

a few trusted friends, he returned to the discovery.

was in the middle of hostile Indian territory.

The site

The men had

barely laid out their claims when the Apaches chased them off

their longiheld hunting grounds.
Two years later

the group returned, greatly reln^

forced in numbers, weapons^and supplies.

Shafts were sunk,

cabins built, and Indians weg» repeatedly repelled.

In one

fracas, Porribeo, son-in-law of Chief Victorio, was shot dead.

-/Il-

�The chief led a determined counterattack.

pelled the onslaught.

The miners re^

When fighting slacked, Cooney and

a fellow miner headed out to warn the people in the nearby
town of Alma.
The Indians caught up with and- killuil' Cooney
and killed them.
and his friend/\ The citizens of Alma have since referred

to the incident as a massacre.

Cooney was buried at the

spot, and a memorlal^later erected,

Cooney’s brother. Captain Michael Cooney, Imme^j^^

dlately left New Orleans
mine.

and headed for the newly inherited

With his help, the number of mines along Mineral Creek

grew, and the small town of Cooney was bom.

continued, but

the miners.

Indian troubles

the weight of numbers wasy^on the side of

The diggings on Mineral Creek failed to rlchen

with depth, and when a gent named Eberle found some highrgrade
on Silver Creek in 1889, Cooney Town decamped and the town of

Mongollon mushroomed around Eberle’s cabin,

Mongollon grew up wild.

For @ years the law in

town was either ineffective or choked.

At one point

Xgents were called in to arrest a deputy sheriff.

met the officers with a gun pointed belt high.

federal

The deputy

The Xds were

fast, however, and in an instant the deputy was stretched out^
his blood pooling on the woodei^Jlo^,

The/Federal/Agents left town before a threataaed reprisal could
be mounted against them.
k'

�When outlaws held up the mine payroll and killed
two men in the process, citizens quickly formed a posse and

galloped in pursuit.

Shortly., one outlaw was killed.

The

other was captured and returned to town for a short respite

before his fate was settled.
Law and order arrived in Mongollon (that's proj^

nounced "muggy-own") in 1914 when town fathers decided to

incorporate.

The town was then touted as being "the most

peaceful in the United States."

That's the year the big slide

brought the massive tailings of the Panney down on the buildings
mill of the
of the Maude S.
The^Maud S. trnatML was reduced to splinters

and its watchman buried under tons of yellow silt.

The slide

continued to the canyon floor, damming the creek and threatening
to flood the town.

Miners turned out to dig a channel through

the ^de.

Heavy rain began to fall, and the water rose at an
increasing rate.

The miners dug faster.

When the two efforts

matched in level, the water poured through the notch, undercut

the sides, and quickly washed a channel through the slide.

In spite of the big slide, 1914 was a year of record
production.

The payroll reached the mllllontasyear mark, and

the town reached its peak population'^“reported variously to be

^000, ^600, and "damn near five thousand."

The business disji^

trlct stretched up the canyon for half a mile.

Side streets on

both sides of the canyon held homes, with' their second stories
level with basements of houses on the tier above.

2l0

�During the first p?/years of the town’s exlstj^nce,
more than

million ounces of silver were mined, refined,

poured In Ingots, and hauled down the mountain.
In 1931

most observers thought the silver was gone

and the town done In, but new discoveries made that year
brought a m* flurry of activity.

disappointingly shallow.

The finds were rich

Mongollon faded again.

but

All mining

was suspended when World War II broke out, and Mongollon

expired for «yood.

MAP NOTS«

Mongollon and the sites of Cooney, Graham, and

Glenwood, are shown on the Mongollon, New Mexico^I910, 30
minute (i Inch to the mile) United States Geological Survey

map

�SHAKSSPSARB, NSW MSXICOL
Unbelievable 11

Born a fake

and brought to a

boom by a fraud, Shakespeare was raised to a second frenzied
peak by con artists who made utter fools of the original pe'r?'

petrators.

Throw In a number of hangings, a few bizzarre

incidents, and cap it with a grand old lady standing off
condemnation by the J^tate of New Mexico, and you have a

story seldom equalled In fiction.
Back in 186?

the place was called -Mexican Springs,*^

’•Uncle" Johnny Evensen built a crude structure by the watei|hole
and called It a stage station.

It was used occasionally when

the stage had to pass up its regular stops due to Indian trouble

When a second citizen moved in with Evensen, the two
of them decided the place needed a more dignified name, like

■•^rant.
Occasional prospectors passed through.

Some even

checked the hills for mineral deposits.
One of them, W. D.
Brown, filed a claim and took some "typlcal'*|samples to San

Francisco for "promotional purposes."

He showj^he samples

to William C. Ralston, head mogul of the Bank of

Ralston had the samples assayed.

California,

The report came back

(it was reported) at 12,000 ounces of silver per tonI

Quickly

Ralston staked claims adjacent to the

find.
He then extended the streets of Grant, laid out lotSy
and named the whole shebang '^R^^ton City,**^t was easy for

�banker Ralston to start the rush to Ralston.

He simply capli^*

tallzed a company and sold stock while spreading rumors of
even greater assay reports.

When the shallow deposits of silver began to fade,

The losers

Ralston quietly left town, his fortune doubled.

drifted off, and Ralston became a ghost town, population of
/'A
two — old Uncle Johnny Evensen and his pal.
The two leading

citizens of town were about to change the name back to •^rant

when a couple of prospectors showed up^^all shlfty-eyed and
They wanted to put some bags of valuables in

secretive.

Evensen’s vault.

Somehow they let it "slip" that the bags

were full of precious gems.

With a little prodding from eW

Uncle Johnny, the two prospectors opened up.

They had dls^^

covered a dtai^ond 'fielTl—A-diamond field, by GodJ and they

were on their way to San Francisco to get some financial
backing.

They had a gent named Ralston in mind,

Ralston was interested

but suspicious.

He had the

stones appraised at Tiffany’s, then hired a mining expert he

could trust.

Tiffany’s reported the diamonds were the real

thing, and the mining expert returned from a guided tour of
the area in an ecstatic condition.

He had found diamonds on

ant hills, in pack rat holes, and even on top of the ground I
Ralston paid the mining expert a handsome fee and

promptly bought the diamond field for $600,000.

jMbsfcatt, out

to redouble his fortune,xagain capitalized a company and

�proceeded to sell shares.

When false rumors got out that

the diamonds were in southwestern New Mexico, prospectors

and promoters deduced the location and promptly started a
Within weeks of the first diamond

second rush to Ralston City.

stock sales, hundreds of newcomers had descended on Uncle
Johnny’s stage station, -emi within a month new saloons were

thrown up and another hotel hastily built.

Three thousand

people wintered in Ralston, drlnkincr it up on cold days,

otherwise searching the hills in vain for the fabulously
rich diamond field.

Some folk who had been taken on Ralston's earlier

schemes

chose to investigate his latest stock promotion.

It wasn't long before Clarence King, ygfovernment^Znspector
and &gt;?^loglst, showed up in Ralston's office.
King and his

assistant were given secret directions to the site.

It turned

out to be in Summit County, Colorado, nowhere near booming
Ralston City.

The Inspector found a few diamonds — all of them

Digging in the area produced

suspiciously on the surface.
only dirt.

King's assistant made one spectacular find —

a diamond with some polished facets.
that the field was a fake.

King sent word to Ralston

The huckster had been had.

His

stock collapsed^and he was put under investigation for fraud.

Ralston eventually went broke

and reportedly committed suicide

The town of Ralston continued to boom for a while.

Residents refused to believe it had all been a hoax.

After all

�Ralston's offices were a thousand miles away, and the so=

called salted field was way up In Colorado.

Prospectors

continued to search for the diamonds In the hills near
Ralston City.

Eventually the promoters left town, followed later
by the prospectors.

The hard cases remained, rustling cattle

e

here and there for subsistence.

Ralston City became an outlaw

town.
A few of the mines near town still held paying ore,

but Ralston City's fraud-filled reputation precluded any
chance of financing.

Two Englishmen, Colonel William Boyle

and his brother. General John Boyle, were well aware of the
silver ore left In the Bonnie Jean and Jenny Boyle mines.

They waited a few years in

ardoa to let memories dim, then

quietly snapped up the two mines

and the town of Ralston.

They renamed the town 'Shakespeare^ a proper
English name, gathered a small quantity of choice ore, and

headed west for financing.

They were modestly successful,

and Shakespeare grew slowly.

In 1879 the town had a post

office (Uncle Johnny was postmaster)y\a couple of saloons,

a growing number of solid citizens, and the Stratford Hotel,

The solid citizens occasionally became disenchanted with some
of the outlaw types still hanging around, and drastic action

was sometimes required.

�Arkansas Black was a popular fellow.

He operated

the Silver Dollar Saloon, and everything would have been all

right If his operations had stopped there.
It was his extr^i^
activities
curricular opei^leno with the married women In town that
angered the men, and It was the last straw when ‘^rkansas'*^

was found In bed with the wife of one of Shakespeare's betterknown citizens.

Arkansas*^ was confronted and told to leave

town.
He resisted but was overpowered. Shakespeare's first
vigilante committee had trouble convincing Agte^Ssas that he

had to leave.

had always been a popular guy

wasn't inclined to take the threats seriously.

and

The menfolk

eventually resorted to a little necktstretching to get

Afh^sas-' undivided attention.

After each short suspension,

they lowered Arkansas and asked him If he would agree to leave

town.

3ach time, between gasping breaths,

creaked a

refusal, mixed with an assortment of selected cuss words.
last time they strung him up, Arkansas went limp.

was lowered,

The

Quickly he

A bucket of water was thrown in his face,

Arkansas came to, fighting madt

He demanded a six shooter,

asklnv the chance to fivht it out like a man.

The vigilantes admired the man for his guts, and
besides, not a one of them cared to volunteer to oppose
in a fair fight.

After a little serious discussion,

the committee decided that A^kanoao wasn't such a bad guy

after all.

The fault lay with the wicked woman

had

�enticed ArkaHoaa*

The woman was given notice, and the

problem was solved.

Very likely, Arkansas Black was a member of the

vigilante party that took Russian Bill and Sandy King from
the local Jail in octder to expedite justice.

talk this time

just straight rope^ork.

There was no
In minutes

the

two outlaws hung from the crossbeam in the main room of the

Grant House. The next mnunlns, breakfast at the hotel was
next morning
delayedy^while the bodies were cut down and hauled out for
burial,

Later

Johnny Svensen answered an inquiring rela-^

tlve’s inquiry by stating that Russian Bill had died of throat

trouble.

Johnny graciously failed to mention anything about

horse stealing or midnight rope^ork.
The silver panic of 1893 brought the*mining to a

halt in Shakespeare. By this time a small community called
Lordsburg had crown^just three miles away on the Southern

Pacific tracks.

Most of Shakespeare moved to the new town.

A

few folk moved a mile in the other direction to a community
growing around new activity at the ”85" Mine, aA early mine that

had been revitalized by the generous use of dynamite to expose
new ore.
In 191^

a spur was run from Loidsburg to the *85^^

and the tracks were put right through the town of Shakespeare ~

right down the center of deserted main street ~ an unwarranted

insult to a dying town.

—/cfO -

�But that wasn’t quite the end of Shakespeare’s im&lt;
possible story.

In 1935

Prank and Rita Hill bought the town.

They reconditioned one of the better buildings as a ranch
house

on the acreage bought

and proceeded to run

along with the town.
The Hills restored the old town and opened It to

tourists.
Rita Hill wrote up the history of the town In a
&amp;
f^clnatlng booklet entitled "Then and Now, Here and There

Around Shakespeare^/

Later, when daughter Janaloo grew up,

she and her father rode horseback to San Diego and back,
publlclj^lng the old ghost town.
Rita and Janaloo continued to
run the spread alone after Prank passed away.
\
(^Recently the New Mexico Highway Department conA

demned a:strlp of land extending through the Hlll(^ acreage.
The new superhighway would effectively separate the ^11»»

cattle from theix water supply.
Blta and Janaloo -had boon running the 3pread"~alune

glnoo Prank hod passed away.y The condemned strip would Just
decided to ask the Xighway

about ruin their ranch.

,»epartment to at least dig a well on the Isolated land

and

provide an underpass for access.
The /Highway y0epartment refused.

decided to do battle.

for the condemned

Rita and Janaloo

They refused to accept the $33,221.59

acres.

They picketed the XSate/iJ^glslature.

They refused to sign any agreement with the JBighway 36'partment.
All was to no avail.

In late November of 1973, the Judge

�ruled against Rita Hill, found her In contempt, and fined her

#3,000.

She was given notice to ’Vacate■*^the land In three

months.
Rita and Janaloo weren't quitting yet.
They moved
3even-by-eight-foot
,
a tiny
bj 0 stucco shack on^o the highway land and

planted it smack in the middle of the spot where Ramp C was
Rita lived in the shack for three

to Join Interstate 10.

months ~ right up to the deadline of November 23^7

Newsmen and onlookers watched as sheriff's deputies
cajoled, coaxed, then threatened.

Eventually the door of the

shack was shoved In, and 71s year: old Rita Hill was read her

rights and arrested.

Rita was placed in jail and told she

would remain there until she signed the release papers.

December 10, Rita signed the paper and was released.
refused payment for the land.

On

She still

She did authorize lawyers' fees

to be taken from the fund, but #19,000 still remains on deposit

unclaimed by Rita Hill.
Disenchanted with the effects of progress

and

frustrated by the Impersonal nature of legal condemnation,

Rita and her daughter have retreated to their home in
Shakespeare.

Recently
of Shakespeare^

Rita Hill locked the gate to the town
Is no longer open to visitors.

There was

no other way she would register her resentment.
I cannot
This book shows
help but agree with Rita Hlll.y| jjfily one photograph oho^ of
the town of Shakespeare,
show more

Somehow it wouldn't seem right to

�MAP NOTE*

The Lordsburg, Mew Mexico, 7J minute and 15

minute maps cover the area.

�VALBDO?T, NSW MgXIGQL
• .
The 1932 Lordsburg topographic map showed a dozen
buildings at Shakespeare.

About a mile to the south

the map

indicated nearly 200 buildings under the name of Valedon.

A

tramway was shown connecting the railroad to a point a mile

and a half west.
The 1963 map of the same area showed onlyempty
structures in Shakespeare.

The tramway was missing on the map,

and^oddly, Valedon was shown with just two buildings.

The

cartographer was either in crreat error on one of the maps, or

something drastic had happened to Valedon.

I inquired about faliu bewu gf Valedon at a small
highway cafe in Lordsburg.

The waitress, the manager, and

several onlookers all assured me, with some heat, that there

never was a town of Valedon.
sure the maps^*^ wrong

When shown the maps, they were

and began to suspect

I was

attempting some sort of hoax.
The local newspaper office furnished some informa?^
tion on the town of Shakespeare.

When asked about Valedon,

the editor answered tha% she had heard of it but had never
been there.

With great expectations
from Shakespeare to Valedon.

I drove the short mile

As I broke over a small rise

I was confronted with a barren bowl surrounded by Jagged
hills.

I could see a few old mine structures

/if-

and one small

�mine still operating

Upon closer inspection

I could make out a number

of buildings blending in with the backsrround.

As I drove

closer, the remains of Valedon came clear, and they were
considerable.

There were some "no" signs about, so I headed for
the operating mine to gain permission to look the old town

over.

Ramon Renteria was willing to interupt his work for

a few minutes.

In fact, he was quite tickled to have some/-

one ask about Valedon,

"I was born here.

Right here in Valedon, in 1917.

Yes, it was a pretty decent town — that was the school over

there, theat^ there, and those long tifick buildings ~ they

were stores."

There was a slight pause,
of the
then the two of them began pointing out the sights
town.
Ramon’s boss drove up.

The superintendent ’s house had been up on the hlll^

.Jf^w

only foundations are left. The mine down in the bottom was the
old Henry Clay.

Up on the hill was the old Atwood Mine.

They presently had thirty-five men working two

shifts in the "85" Mine.
then down ^50 feet,

They were tunneled in 800 feet,

Ramon’s boss gave the okay for me to

look the old buildings over

but gave me firm warning to

look out for open shafts and rattlesnakes.
1/

"Ramon killed

five rattlers down in the draw by the store just yesterday,"

�The e3fc^ ”85" Mine now operating

was one of the

first mines ever to be worked in the area.

Sam Ransom,

Shakespeare blacksmith, staked out the claim sometime in
the 189(^^.

It wasn't until 190? that someone shot off a

bundle of dynamite in the tunnel and uncovered some decent
ore.
The new owners hired

the ore.

a crew and began stockpiling

Soon other claims in the area were found to contain

profitable ore, and the number of miners increased.

Within a

year, the mines around the "85" were employing nearly 100 men,

three and a half
Most of the miners walked the
miles to and from

Lordsburg each day.

A few of them took up residence in nearly

deserted Shakespeare.

Several of Shakespeare’s saloons went

back into business as halfway houses.

They attracted most of

the miners croing off shift, and probably some of those going

on shift.

Within a year

a tent towy^grew around the "85^

and^before the second winter, a number of boardIng^^

houses were built.

Eventually

streets were laid out*and th^
Z
community became the town of Valedon.

When the railroad spur connected the town with the

main line at Lordsburg in 191^, Valedon quickly grew to more
than 3^00,

Valedon was a company town

as to drinking and general hell-raising.

and tightly controlled
Shakespeare, less

than a mile down the tracks, was the perfect sin town.

town was at least consist|^nt.

That

Somehow it always played host

'/a-

�to the violent, the crooked, or the fraudulent.

Its

wickedness kept Valedon relatively chaste.
Paro wheels, blackjack, and poker games were

alltnight attractions In the basements of the saloons In
Shakespeare.

One evening a general fight broke out.

When

the survivors took Inventory, they found a number of people

laid out either by alcohol or violence.
respond

One man failed to

and after close Inspection was found to be dead.

No one had the slightest Idea who was responsible.

Lacking

a better solution, the body was laid out on the tracks
running down main street.

The railroad reported the death

as an "unfortunate accident."

Two negroes stopped by Shakespeare on their way to
their mine on Lee’s Peak, two miles west of Valedon,

As

they paid for their supper, some of the hard cases In town

took note of the wads of money the two men carried.

The

money was the payroll for the miners working at the shaft
owned by the two blacks.

The crooks caught up with the men,

beat them to death, and searched the bodies for the money.

None was found.

Apparently the two had stashed the payroll

somewhere just outside of town.

Since that event, the wash

heading to Lee’s Peak has been called the 'Arroyo de los Neg
Things were not always completely respectable In

ValiAdon.

Lyman Garrett, brother of the famous Pat Garrett

and y^erlff of Valedon, was found one morning lying In front

/Hl

�of his jail.

Citizens assumed that Garrett

jailing some

law violators when they somehow took his gun^ /Fearful of the

sound of shots, they chose to beat the sheriff to death.

Two

men were apprehended for the crime and subsequently convicted.

The town of Valedon boomed from 1920 to 192?.
population grew to more than ^00.

The

Permanent stores lined the

streets, and a modern school was constructed.

During the boom

years, a threatened railroad strike was averted when leading

supporters of the two factions ^abor union and mine management
agreed to face off in a boxing match.
balanced fight.
injuries.

It was ajlong, wells

Both parties ended the fight with serious

Apparently it cooled the strike to the point where

mediation seemed preferable.
The Great
1q,2.
Depression of 199G brought mining to a halty^
The owners, Phelps Dodge, in accordance with standard company
practice, summarily ordered the citizenry to vacate.

was then dynamited to save on taxes.

The town

The school building was

left intact as a possible future company office.

The stoutly

built rock and brick buildings lost their roofs, but the walls

were left standing. Dynamite to finish the job would cost
..
from
more than the added tax savings that would result
their

complete eradication.
It was now clear just why the 1932 map showed a
fulltblown town (pardon the pun) and the 1963 map showed

only two buildings

—zi’S —

�MAP NOTEJ

The Lordsburg, New Mexico, 1932, 15 minute United

States Geological Survey topographic map shows the town of

Valedon Intact.

The Lordsburg, New Mexico, I963. 7i minute

e*
map shows the town after dj^struction.

END NEW MEXICO AREA 4-

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                    <text>PAET III

NEVADA

�Pf\ P. r-3-

' BULLFROG,

\T3vaD4 j
Shorty Harris had never made a big stake.

He

had made a strike or two, but somehow it always seemed to

slip through his fingers.

The finds that he kept always

turned out shallow, and the ones he sold made the buyer

rich.

There was always the next one, and that one he would

handle ricrht, for Shorty figured he had used up all the

wrong ways.
Late in the summer of 1904, Shorty Harris and his
friend, Ernest Cross, split off from a group of prospectors
at Daylight Springs in^^^^^thern Nevada and headed west to

a spot Shorty had noted some years earlier.

On August 4

the two prospectors found some greenish rock containing Im/^

bedded quartz, and in the quartz were granular chunks of gold

Smooth portions of the rock resembled the back of a bullfrog.
They ground up some of the rock and panned out the Kold.

It

was rich as any ore they had ever seen — and this time it

wasn’t someone else holding on to it.

This could be the

bi{7 one!
Harris and Gross checked the area closely and

staked out the best deposits/\ ^en, with foresight, staked
out a mill site and water rights.

samples they could

They loaded up all the

and headed for Goldfield.

On the way

�they stopped at Beatty's Ranch, and

heyan to snread,
norter clalTied

It spread so fast

word of the X^rike

that one newspaper re-^

the two nen met prospectors coming at

them from Goldfield when they were still

miles out

and

that when the two discoverers reached Goldfield, all of

Goldfield was staking claims near ^e Bullfrog.

The story

is only slightly exaggerated, for 7,000 people were on the

site within a few months.

Shorty's credit was good at every bar in Goldfield,
£
and he exercised his x^rogatlve in all of them. Later he
claimed that six days of drinklns- too much "Oh-Be-Joyful"

had addled his braint

He didn't remember signing the deed,

but there it was ~ with seven witnesses.-^ he had sold his
half of The Bullfrog for ^l,OOo!

Another stake had slipped

from his grasp.
Later

Shorty claimed it was $25,000, probably in

an attempt to sound as astute as his partner, Ernest Cross,
who had held out for that fiyure.

His partner claimed that

Shorty had sold his interest for just $400^
claimed it was $500 and a mule.

others

The latter version isn't

likely, since Shorty hated mules, much preferring jackasses.
In fact, his vravestone was later to be inscribed:

"Here

Lies Shorty Harris, A Single Blanket Jackass Prospector."
Shorty became famous as the best and the poorest

prospector in-------- -—- -------------- -

'

'

�the southwest.

Wherever he went, he left a trail of riches

behind.
The Bullfrog strike was made in August, and by

November

nearly a dozen tent towns had sprung up, some near

the original claim

and others scattered about the flats near

Ladd Mountain a few miles to the east.
Water had to be hauled in.

Freighting costs made

it nearly equal in price to unaged whiskey.

liquor a bargain by comparison.

That made hard

It was in such demand that

many of the shipments were intercepted enroute and consumed
on the spot.

It was common practice to set up shop at the

point of interception.

It was several months before the opene

air bars satisfied the demand and were able to migrate to the
mining camps.

Land promoters attempted to lure residents to

To get

"their" towns

in order to sell lots at a profit.

things started

they all offered free lots, and some escalated

the competition with the offer of free house?moving.

shifting of homes and

The

relocation^ of business places

finally slowed as two dominant towns emergedS

Bullfrog, on

the flat south of Sutherland Mountain, and Rhyolite, a mile
to the north.

Promoters of both towns knew that only one could

survive.

The competition was heavy.

Each town built to

match the other -- and by May 30, 1905, both had larsre hotels,
newspapers,
water systems, nowopapoiii and post offices.

A

�Within a year

Hhyolite emercred as the winner.

It was a more substantial town with a number of twos and

three: story rock buildinss^s under construction.

Lots in

Bullfrog dropped in value, and stores along its main street
became vacant.

When the last business place moved io Rhyo­

lite, the Rhyolite Herald proclaimed*

"Verily the Bullfrog

Croaketh,"
That was in May of 1906, and in June of the same
year the big threes story hotel «e^Bullfrog burned to the

ground.

The town had boomed and collapsed in less than

two years,

The map!^ of the area indicates the ruins of two
buildings and a cemetery at the site of Bullfroc,
totally accurate.

It is

The road to the west, part of it atop the

old railroad grade, leads to the collapsed structures of the
oriarinal Bullfrog Mine,

caved in,

Of the mine shafts there, some are

^hers are filled with the debris of fallen

buildings,
r

*

MAP NOTE*

The Bullfrog, Nevada, 15 minute topographic map

of the United States Geological Survey shows Bullfrog, the
Discovery Mlneyy^and other settlements in the area.

�RHYQLITS, MSVAPA /

When Bullfrog "croaked " In I906, the population
of Rhyolite increased by several hundred.

The first of three

railroads reached town the same year^and Rhyolite took a
second giant step forward.

The town was exploding much faster than profits

from the mines warranted.

Hine stocks were high:priced and

selling fast.

had arrived too late for the Gold^

People

field boom were primed for this one.

This was the time, and

Rhyolite was the place^to make a fortune.

The boom was still

resounding when the first signs of the bust appeared.

Some

of the smaller claims had been found wanting, and the original
Bullfrog Mine had found the end of its lode.
In spite of the warning signs. Rhyolite continued

to grow.

The tracks of two more railroads reached town in

1907, and the population jumped from 6,000 to 10,000.

Threei

story buildings made of local rhyolite rock were springing up.
Pour banks and four newspapers were in operation, and construc­

tion was started on a large^concrete schoolhouse.

Boundary lines had to be drawn in town to prevent
the encroachment of the rapidly expanding red-light district.
The alley one half block east of main street was the western

boundary.

A new jail was built in the direction of the exT^

panslon, in order that it be handy to the customer.

�The town had three separate water systems.

The

pressure in some mains was in excess of 70 pounds per square
inch, A had fire in the red-lfT^t district, hastened hv
wind, threatened to spread into the business district.

The

hisch pressure in the waterline hurst the first two hoses

hooked up.

New hoses were strung from hydrants with lower

pressure, and the blaze contained.

The financial panic of 190? caused most of
Hhyolite’s mines to close down.

The Montgomery Shoshone,

two miles northeast of town, was a notable exception.

Its

continued operation prevented the immediate collapse of
Rhyolite,
The Montgomery Shoshone lode was discovered by an

Indian lad (the legend goes) who was tricked into trading it
for a pair of pants and two dollars,

S. A. Montgomery, the

purchaser, claimed, to the contrary, that he had hired the
Indian

and in fact had paid him well.

Further, Montgomery

stated^tiMbt it was by his own efforts thfit the best ore was
located.

Montgomery sold the mine for^2 million
(some report|’*5 million), and within a year its stock was
evaluated at
million. When the mine finally closed in
1910, it had grosseoj^a million in gold but was still deeply

in debt on the newly built Schwab Mill,

lOo —

/

�/2^

The population of Hhyolite had been dropping for

two years, but in 1910» when the Shoshone closed, it plummeted
to less than a thousand.

with

1912

The newly completed school opened

students rattling about its spacious corridors.

In

the massive station of the Las Vegas and Tonopah Railroad,

built just a few years earlier, was suddenly deserted when
train service was terminated.

A few years later the tracks

were torn up for scrap, and even the diehards left town.

homes were hauled away.

Many

All but a few of the remaining struc^

tures were burned or dynamited to save on taxes.

The railroad station was bought by the McLaughlins
and remodeled as a home. It was the only major building in
town to escape razing. Later the old station served as bar,
gambling house, and country store.

Mow it is a combination

residence, museum^and tourist shop.

The old station stands

alone amid the ravaged ruins of Rhyolite.

MAP NOTSj

\

Details may be found on the Bullfrog, Nevada^ 15

minute United States Geological Survey topographic map.

^2^

�GOLD POINT,

^SVAPA

There are no detailed maps available for the
area around Gold Point, and they are hardly necessary, since

the town can be seen straix^ht down the road from the Junction
on U.S, 95, (l^mlles away.

The huddle of bulldinis^s next to

the lights colored mine dumps at the base of Slate Ridge is

the town of Gold Point.
Seven miles of that straight road is blacktop
JUv-axixv
3), and the remaining is good crravel. The dry^ clear

air fools one into thinking the town is constantly traveling
away at a speed equal to that? -af one’s own approach.
Of the 225 buildings that stood in the town of
Gold Point ^nce called Lime Point
three or four dozen remain.

and then Hornsilver^ only

Compared to most ghost towns,

that’s a considerable remnant.

There is an owner in residence

at present, and he has thoughtfully laid down the ground rules
by means of a small sign at the edge of town.

In effect, the

message asks the visitor to be careful where he trespasses

and to keep hands off the property ~ but to take all the
pictures his heart desires.

And Gold Point is photogenic.

There are three

"business districts," one at the deserted gas pump and store,

another a few blocks northwest, and the last near a mine

about a quarter of a mile to the south.
The one near the mine has on its false front a

�sign that can barely be made out — "Hornsllver Townsite
and Telephone Company."

In front of the building are the

remains of the two very old gas pumps, one of them adverti^^
ing filtered gasoline.

Old deserted mines are scattered in every direction.
Many are quite intact.

A number of gallows wheels (pulley

wheels at the top of head frames) lie about as if someone
forced to quickly

wae caught in the act of looting and
divest himself of incriminating evidence.

The largest and most impressive remnant in Gold
Point is the blockulong business district at the northwest

edge of town.

In one single string

there are four weathered

old stores standing alone and forlorn.

Three are connected

and seem to gain strength from each other's presence.

A

twos store space separates the cluster from the end store, and
beyond that atruoture are the collapsed walls of yet another

place of business.

Limestone was mined here in 1868, and during that
time the town was called Lime Point.

In I9O8

silver ore was found and the town boomed.
changed to Hornsllver,
Hornsllver Herald.

highrgrade

The name was

The local newspaper was called
Thirteen saloons mushroomed, and

there was talk of a railrosid.

By I910 the town had reached

its maximum size.

/o3 -

I

�The period from I905 to 1911 was wild.

At

least the old duffer from 'layer, Arizona^ re membered it
that way.

He used to prospect the washes for yold.

"Found

some too," he claimed, "and I would have kept a lot more
if I hadn't been cheated out of it,"

He and his partner had located some good sand.

They flipned to see who would cro file on it.

won and headed for Gold Point.

His buddy

He returned three days later ~

"with a hanyover and three strangers.

got drunk and sold our claim ~

Seems he went and

claim!"

The old-timer (he’s the one

wanted to remain

"unanimous") had little good to say about some of the :iner?^
chants in the boot^ towns and mining camps nearby.

"They was always cheatin' on the whiskey.
it was half water ~ wouldn't even burn your tongue,"

Most of
He

seemed to yet a little angry at something he Just recalled.

"There was one old crook that ran a saloon outside of Gold
Point, on the way to the old Oriental camp.

He used to enjoy

takin' a pinch of dust for a drink, like they done years before,

Everyone thought that it was all right Hil they noticed his
pinchin' fingers had dents in 'em."

his thumb and forefinger.

He demonstrated with

"Most of us guys had heard of

bartenders yrowln' long fingernails, or runnin' their hands

through the grease in their hair, but we never seen this
pulled before.

We raised hell with him and made him use

�his left hand.

Then one day we see his left hand ha^ got

dents — and

we find out he's been squeezin' a button in

his pocket Just before he takes a pinch.
gonna hang him.

Told him we was

He didn't even take us serious, so we did.

We hung him a little.

Didn't hurt him much.

Jest redded

up his neck and maybe stretched it some."
In spite of the poor results experienced by some
prospectors, increasing: amounts of gold were found.

Silver

deposits were petering out, and by 1930 more gold was being
mined than silver.

its name again.

Obviously the town would have to change

Newly christened Gold Point, the town

perked along for another

years before it folded.

In

1955 there was one store serving the needs of thirteen resl'

dents.

Now the store is closedy^and the number of residents

is even less.

Several of the old miners' houses have been kept
up as vacation homes.

Near one of them is an outhouse of

unusual construction — quite appropriate to its occasijnal

use ^specially in the event of flu, the "green apple

splatters^^ or some other similarly explosive happening
it's made entirely of ammunition boxes.

MAP NOTE:

No topographic maps available

�LIDA, ViSVADA C
There was gold in the Palmetto Mountains.

The

Indians and Mexicans mined it in the 186Q^, Within a few
SAfl
years Americans heard about it and in the
moved in on
the "unclaimed diggings."

The settlement that grew on the

site was nearly 200 miles from the nearest railroad.

Silver^

miles to the north^and across the mountain, was the

peak,

nearest town,

Lida expanded rapidly after a road was built
connecting it with Silverpeak.

Machinery-for two aman

stamp mills was hauled in and assembled at the springs near
town.

Much of the ore was rich ~ it had to be in order to

balance the high cost of freighting the mill machinery at a
fee of .$100 per ton.

Some ore was so rich that it was hauled

to the railhead and shipped out for processing.
When Goldfield boomed in 1904

life to Lida.

it brought added

The springs at the outskirts of Lida became

Goldfield’s water supply by means of a pipeline (|^*odd miles
lonff.

When the railroad reached Goldfield

rates on supplies for the residents of Lida,

it meant lower

Also, low-grade

ore stockpiled on the mine dumps could now be processed at

a profit.
Lida grew up, and a newspaper,

Enternrig^-

£

came to town. The town flourished for several years

then

faded when many of the mines shut down during litigation.

�aanchinc: be.cran to pay better than mining, and the nature
of the community changed.

Today the town is half ghost, half ranch.
Several old buildings stand vacant under massive shade

The old schoolhouse can be spotted by its attendant
“boys," ’’girls," and "teacher."
triplesdoor outhouse — ''bovy,-"girls^ and tcaohor-. "
trees.

A

MAP M0T3:
available.

Mo topographic maps of the area are present

�JlBVADA A3 3A 2
^T3VApA

The Cathollo Church stands on a hill overlookins;

town.

I had taken a number of lows angle shots of the old

unpainted structure and had decided to climb the hill to

try out the opposite view.

Prom that direction, a f*few of

Nevada’s rare summer clouds could perhaps be coerced into
position.

Photos completed, I wandered back past the front

of the church.

The steps looked inviting and there were no

"No" signs in evidence.

The hasp on the door was broken,

apparently smashed.

I reached for the handle, and as my

hand touched metal

a shot rang out.

instantly.

My hand jerked back

I took inventory, then looked about.

Someone

had determined that a shot fired in the air, at a precisely

timed moment, would serve as an effective deterrent.
someone had no doubt pulled the stunt on others.

That

He probably

keeps a good eye out, fearful he will miss another chance at
a little fun.

I got the message, and I understood the

necessity of his delivering it.

Some visitors leave with

e

mjjmentos more substantial than exposed film.
Manhattan has had an on-agaln/^off-again history.
Silver found here in 1866 resulted in the construction of a

mill, but it failed to show a profit and was abandoned three

�years later.

In I905 some cattlemen spotted an outcrop of

"jewelry quality" ore.

the date of discovery

They claimed it and named it for
April Pool.

That summer @ town*^

sites were laid out in the vicinity, and the usual competition

between landmen ensued.

i-Ilne speculators moved in the next

year and spread exaarveratlons all over Nevada.

Soon 4,000

ueople rushed to the spot, most of them from Tonopah,

miles south.

The road was constantly filled with rigs and

autos, one every half mile or so.

The dust never settled.

Lots in town were expensive^and store owners built
on their entire lot, attaching each new building to the side*
wall of the last.

One lucky merchant bought a 30tfoot space

between two stores and simply raised a front, a backhand a
roof,

Plre hazards due to this kind of construction were

ignored.

The topographic map of the vicinity shows a solid

bar on each side of the road, indicating long strings of
connected buildings. The town had its own electric power
plant,
banks, (2)newspapers, a number of stores, and plenty -

of "watering holes,"

The quake hit San Francisco the following year,
and Manhattan's financial supporters went home (with their

money) to repair damage to their holdings.

!4anhattan

collapsed, but new placer strikes brought it back to life

years later.

A particularly rich float was found east of

town at the White OapCs) Mine.

A mill was built, and the

�population of Ilanhattan stabilized at nearly one thousand.
The town had nearly died for the second time by

1939. when- dredcring offered a new flicker of life.

When

that effort ceased in 19^7, the town died its most recent
death.

It’s due to come back to life again any time ~ it

always has.

lieanwhlle

it’s a delightful ghost town.

An old

rock building at the east end of town has a weathered sign
over its door that reads "post office," but showing through
are the letters "B A WK,"

Just a few steps awav are the

hoist works shed and gallows frame of a small mine.

The

Toiyabe Hall stands across the street, twos storied and lm«*^

presslve.

Strung out along^maln street are an old meat

market, five housesy^and a general store.

The many gaps along

the oncei solid string of storefronts were created when a
number of merchants moved their places of business to a

booming placer camp on Hound Mountain,

When they removed

their stores, they took the outside walls of adjacent build#"

ings with them.

Most gaps are at least ^stores wide.

The little general store is the only place doing
business now.

Recent "progress" has been almost too much

for the sras pump, , Its rate adjustment won’t reach the
50- to
current
60s cent price of gas. It still reads 30

cents per gallon, but a sign on the pump tells the customer
to fill up, then just double the total.

— 110-^

�MAP MOTS I

Excellent detailedisplayed on the 1914 Manhattan

and Vicinity, Nevada^ 3":to»thetmile United States Geological
Survey topographic map.

Sadly, the map is now out of print

and cannot be purchased.

Some libraries in

the map and will permit copies to be made.

have

�BALMONT,

MS^ZADA

It can only be described as an oasis.

In the

middle of town, surrounded by larsre shade trees, a spring
bubbles forth, its steady flow giving rise to a small stream

that wanders south through town.

Within a mile

the waters

of the stream are sapped and then swallowed by the thirsty

desert sand,

Belmont enjoys ideal weather during most of the
year, due mainly to the 7000:
foot elevation. There are time
/K
I
however, when heavy winds dominate life in town. Guy wires
to the west and south of manv buildings attest to the

strength of the winds.

Heavy winter snows (@ feet in four

days on one occasion) can pile up and cut the town off from

civilization for weeks at a time.

Hose Walter is the ranking old:timer, and the
venerable
voraj»3?e first lady of Belmont,
Hose and her housekeepers
companion live in a large, wells kept rock home at the north
end of town.

These two ladiedxand the couple that own the
r

newly opened gas station-bar-cafe at the opposite end of
town, make up the complete roster of years round residents.

Strung out along the main street of town are a
number of impressive remains of the once:notable town.

Across the stream are more buildings.

Dominating that side

of town is the grand old Wye County Courthouse,

Two:story

brick, with tall wooden cupola and numerous chimneys, the

�structure was, and still is, the fanciest buildinff in the

It was here that the "town character" held sway

county.

as district &gt;kttornsy. Elected as a joke, he took his job
seriously
so seriou^^hat he refused to leave office at
the end of the term. The newly elected D.A. tried to assume
office, but *014 Andy*^eld out forQdays, sleeping in the

courthouse office and having meals sent in.
Silver, found in I865, resulted in an immediate

influx of fortune seekers.

With assays at more than ^100

and over a thousand tons of ore blocked out, there

per ton

was little reason to believe Belmont would be a town to go
bust quickly.

Merchants built with a justifiable hope of

permanence, and within two years the population had reached
6,000.

When Belmont secured the county seat, plans were

laid to build a prideful courthouse.

Clay deposits were

located

miles west of town, and a brick factory was conT^

structed.

Prom that brick the courthouse was built, and

from that edifice emanated an aura that Inspired confidence

in those who would build Other^structures.of
Belmont grew to 10,000 and boasted two newspapers, an oyster
houseyj and a music hall.

Society made the news, but rougher

elements were making the headlines

C^wo union organizers were chased out of town.
When they were found hiding out nearby, they were hauled
in and hunvf

�Irish laborers

in 186?

confronted Boss Canfield

and accused him of hiring Cornlshmen at lower wages to ret*
place the Irish.

Tempers heated^^and soon Canfield was being

toted about town on a rail.

When a former lawman, Louis

Bodrow, tried to slow things down, shots rang out and two

men fell to the ground.

tHHBs Bodrow and Pat Dlgnon lav dead.

Bodrow had been shot

times and then stabbed repeatedly.

He got off two shots before he expired, and Dlgnon inter'?'
cepted one of them.

During some of Belmont’s more lawless years, a
vigilante group maintained order by staging occasional hang?'

Ings.

Generally

the job was done on the sly, to avoid in*?

crimination, but each time, a sign bearing the number "301"
was attached to the victim.
ive.

The lesson was clear and effect?

A few more crooks slipped out of town each time word

spread that the "301" was forming up for an evening’s chores.
By 1885|I^15 million in silver had been taken from
the hills.

Mines produced until the late thirties

abruptly shut down.

then

With the shuQown, payrolls stopped.

Stores closed for lack of customers, and the town became
suddenly quiet.

The Catholic Church was moved to Manhattan,

•there to become deserted once again.

In 1903

only^^people

registered to vote in Belmont,
But the town isn’t altogether dead.

saloon at the south end of town is open.

The little

Travelers can

�obtain sustenance and libation.

One can even buy gasoline?

however, the procedure is a bit unusual.
First you borrow the pump handle from the bar&gt;A^

tender, then pump the seas into
pump.

glass cylinder atop the

The gasoline then flows by gravity throuch the nozzle

and into the gas tank of the car.

You check the pump handle

back in when you pay the bartender for the gas,

Now that’s

proarress f

—

MAP NOTE:
available

No topographic map of the area is presently

�IQ^B,

NSVAPA^

West of Tonopah, dust devils trace their serpentine

paths across the dry flats, gathering substance as finely powA_

dered earth is blown high in an ever-tlyhteniny spiral.

Heavier spheres of tumbleweed ride low, bouncing along, nearly

escaping, then swinging violently inward to orbit in tight
circles.

At times a dozen or more of the dry tumbleweeds are

carried crazily along, like ponies on a merry-go-round gone
wild.

Passing through one of the larger whirlwinds is an
experience.
observer.

First the wind and debris batter one side of the

Then, after the passage of a miniscule eye, the

opposite side is delivered an equal blow.

The passage is quick

and harmless to all but the very delicate.

Butterflies, kleenex,

newspapers, even handkerchiefs "out of the hand" are occasion^

ally carried to extreme heights, to fall back gently when the

centripetal grip is relaxed.

Worth and west of Tonopah, past the playground of
the dust devils

and a dozen or so miles east of Gabbs, a

narrow canyon in the Shoshone Mountains cradles the remains
of the old mining town of Ione.

In 1863

silver was found in Ione Canyon to the

northeast, and a camp grew on the site.

The narrow canyon

offered little room to expand, so the town was moved dowrf

�stream to the flats at the canyon mouth.

Ione became the

first county seat of Nye County in 186^, and the town soon
Several mills were built, but

exceeded 500 in population.

the ore in the region never lived up to the mill's capacities,

let alone the promoter's expectations.

seat was moved to Belmont.

In 186? the county

In spite of the recent extraction

of mercury, less than a million dollars in precious metals

has been taken from the region.
A number of old mines are strung out along the four-’

mile length of Shamrock Canyon
them, Xie Shamrock Mine

Just east of Ione.

One of

perched on the north slope, is acces^

ible by a recently improved road.

At the mine site, an old

'&gt;f!ot/fead" steam enorine still sits on its pads, apparently
in running order.

The shed giving it protection is shorn of

its roofing, and cracks between boards let in narrow bands of

light, contouring the shapes of the machine within.
At the west end of town, a low rock structure

dominates a rise on the north side of the road.
are more than two feet thick.
fireplace.

The east wall contains a flush

Mot flush Just on the inside

outer surface.

Its walls

but also on the

With the supersthick walls, the fireplace

is merely a hollow portion hidden in the middle, A beam
two-by-fours
along the ridge supports rough? sawn
that measure
2% by 5)6^
an actual
x yi Inches. These are apparentlv the ancestors
'
l%-by-3%-iiich
of the present
anemic off sprln!?s. Over the

�rafters, waste slab wood was nailed on, then bark was laid

on the boards, and the whole covered with dirt

and a crop

of ^rass planted.
While it was occupied, the owner kept the arras s

watered.

The shade kept the dirt cool

fortable.

When the last occupant moved out, the roof died.

MAP NOT Si

The 15 minute Ione, Nevada^^ United States

and the house comiR-

Geoloarical Survey map is an excellent aid in explorina:
Xs,
the area. A series of
"w indicating prospect holes,

surround Ione on three sides.

Many tunnels and shafts are

indicated, Sprinkled along the two canyons leading northeast

and southeast from town.

�B^RLIV,

^WADA

Two hundred million years ago, ^^sfoot monsters

swam In the shallow seas that covered most of the western
states.

Wari^looded, m^alian, and shaped somewhat like

a lizard, the ,?^hthyosaur lived, propagated, and died in
much the same manner as

the whales of the present era.

The bodies of some Xohthyosaurs sank in the deep ooze
present in some shallows.

the ooze hardened to

In time

become a mold of the animal’s skeleton.
made acidic with carbon dioxide
Much later

matter.

Slowly, water

dissolved the bones.

the area was covered with volcanic

over an extended period of time, rain~water

laden with minerals filtered through the overburden and

filled the bone cavities, recreating the skeletons in agate
precipitated
and other pringipotted rock.
Fossils of the ancient animals were found in

I860, thirty-five years before

silver was discovered.

In 1898, three years after the silver strike, many of the

claims were bought up by the Nevada Company (a Mew York
outfit) and a mill constructed.

srrew around the mill.

The small town of Berlin

The population held at about 200

for ten years, then dropped to a handful in I909 when the

mill shut down.
The buildings of Berlin have changed little from

the time it became deserted.

Some of the pottbellied stoves

—//f-

�have disappeared, and the metal has been salvaged from the

mill.

Prospectors have occasionally used cabins In town

as a base of operations. Presently, one of the old cabins
Nevada^
|
Is occupied ty a j^^tate Parks employee. The town is used as

an entrance gate to Ichthyosaur State Park.

MAP MOTS J

The 15 minute Ione, Mevada^Unlted States Geological

Survey map shows the site of Berlin

but oddly fails to pin­

point the location or extent of the fossil beds.

�ILLINOIS Miys CAMP,

^aVADA

The Paradise Peak topographic map is littered

with evidence of old towns and mining camps.
Craig Station/\and Downeyville are shown

sites.

Ellsworth,

and labeled as

Paradise Peak Mine Camp, Sierra Magnesite Mine Camp,

and Brucite

are depicted by numerous black squares, Indicai^

ting present occupation.

The date on the map is 19^8, and

it would be logical to assume that at least one of the last
three towns would

spection.

by now

be a deserted camp worthy of ln&lt;^

At the north end of the map,

Big Chief Mine,

.i^fTe Victory Tungsten Mine, and ^ffe Illinois Mine Gamp are

shown.

It seemed likely that one of these sites might also

prove to be a little:known town or camp^rarely visited

and

virgin Off any publicity.

At Ellsworth and Craig, remains were sparse. At
Downeyville I could find onlv mlne^shafts. The Victory

Tuna:sten Mine Gamp was small and in intermittent use.

The

Sierra Magnesite Gamp, right next to Gabbs, consisted only
of concrete slabs.

Brucite was now a part of the excavation

of the huge mine operation being carried out a mile east of
Gabbs.

Gabbs, the biggest town within

miles, was a

very small community with only one cafe, but it hardly

qualified as a ghost town.
At^ one time, a town called Lodi existed about

miles northeast of Gabbs.

It had a population of 100 and

�was the supply point for the Illinois Mine Gampmiles to

the west.

The map showed no town by the name of Lodi, but

it did show a tank (small water reservoir) by that name.

I expected to find the slate wiped equally clean at the

Illinois Mine Gamp

but was pleasantly surprised to find a

number of Impressive remnants.

FinallyI

After a dozen dis^

appointments, here was a site worth a few rolls of film and
an afternoon’s "exploration,"

Deciphering the remains of deserted sites Involves

a lot of inspection, some deduction, a share of guess3!rork,
and a residue of mystery.

A ghost town hunter quickly be?*^

comes a speculative historian.
Beside the road at the mine camp stood a small^

rock-walled, sod-roofed building with a wooden vent risinar at
7
the back. The fixtures were not that of an outhouse, so the
logical assumption (there were shelves on the sides) was
that the building served as a powder house.

It would nature

ally have a stout door and lock, but these were missing,

A

bit further along the littlezused road, a deep mine shaft r^
Ordinary passage put the pickup
There was
wheels within a foot of the llp.y^Zittle to worry about,

qulred careful avoidance.

however, as the truck was larger than the shaft. However,
OH
when approachfoot the prudent observer would maintain
his distance, since the lip slope^ in and 4^ covered with
small^rounded rocks ready to ease one’s entrance.

�Larger diameter metal hoops told of wooden tanks
that once stood here — probably a cyanide unit for extracts

ing stubborn gold.

Perhaps mill taillngs^were reworked for

gold missed on the first attem^o/.

Two corrugated steel tanks lay crumpled in the

gully.

They appeared to be either blown up by dynamite

or

21-

blown down by wind ^“probably the latter, since the remains
were more battered than bulged.

Hock mill foundations occupied the slope near the,

banks of the gully.

The absence of further remains would

1\

indicate that the steel was removed ~ perhaps the entire

'

then again, this could be one of those structures
•&gt;
sacrificed in the making of a B:grade western movie.
mill.

A sign in the center of town marks the spot as

the route of an emergency stock driveway. Amazing — it
,
,
nrrjcuAz
makes one wonder how many head of stock
have enddd
up at shaft bottoms.
Down the hill and east a few hundred yards, past

a number of jackstrawed woodpiles (probably living quarters),
was a stout brick cubical in the midst of extensive brick
rubble.

It must have been a bank vault at the company

offices.

Hearby was a square concrete foundation, very

stout for its size.

A mystery.

aa4 the ground sounded hollow.

it was safe to traverse.

A few steps to the east
Yet

car tracks Indicated

A bit more to the east, a tall,

- M3 -

�broad vertical expanse of brick provided the answer.

Doors

in the face led to underground tunnel like chambers of the
type used to smelt ore.

The tunnels led to the square corjj^

Crete foundation, which now quite clearly was a chimney base.

A short distance away was a small rock kiln or smelter.

was the obvious forerunner.

Both structures had the same

angled brackets to hold the removable doors.
doors we^ at hand.

It

?Tone of the

They would have been metal doors and

therefore would have been sold for scrap during one of the

past wars.

Pacts concerning the camp are few.

Hesldents of

Gabbs were able to provide some, and a few paragraphs referr^
Nevada
ing to the town were gleaned from the.State Archives.
A
Gold found here in 1874 resulted in a small smelter
(the one built of rock?) being constructed nearby.

The

camp that grew about the mine and smelter included a stoia

saloon, boarding house (perhaps that exp^^ns the longyj^

narrow foundation below the mine), and a population of

s e ve ral hund re d.
The mine was closed and reopened a number of

times.

Each time the camp received a new namei

Marble and

Bob were used, and some claim the camp was called Lodi for
a time.

However, about 1908 the real Lodi was laid out at

the site of the present Lodi tanks, and the mine camp then

went under the name of ‘Illinois.

�Thins:s really got sroing about 1910^when Lodi

began to look like a town
the Illinois Mine.

one).

and new veins were located at

A large smelter was built (the brick

Severe flooding in the shaft brought things to a halt

about the time of World War I.

Just before World War II, a

last effort was made (the corrugated tanks) to extract the

remaining ore.
Except for
Outojlide 9# the small concrete water tank

there

is nothing to mark the site of Lodi, but the remains at

Illinois Mine Camp (or Marble, or Bob) are as numerous and
varied as the names the camp has carried.

I’lAP M0T2»
y

The Paradise Peak, Nevada^ 15 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows a wealth of old sites.

END NEVADA AREA 31

�J?J5VADA ARSA 3

a

f

] VIRGI?TIA CITY, NEVADA.C

The old prospector was half way into tying on a
good one. *^ld Virginn:^'^ he was called, probably because^
drunk or sober, he was continually rattling on about his home

state.

He had Just bought a fresh bottle and was headed

toward camp by way of the straightest line possible

when

he stumbled on the rough ground and fell forward, bottle-arm
outstretched.

of contact.

Unfortunately

there was a rock at the point

The whiskey flooded out of the shattered glass

and soaked quickly into the ground,

Hot one to waste a full

bottle, the old prospector gathered himself up and proclaimed^

"I christen this ground Virginia."

If it hadn't been for that rock at the end of Old
:he town might have kept its original name —
Silver City,

As it was, the story was told so many times that

the christening was accepted.

After all, it was reasoned,

anyone who could think that fast deserved the rlvht to name
the town!

The story of Virginia City started ten years back/&lt;
when the barren ground was called Gold Canyon,

Some folk

passing through to California had panned a little gold in

the canyon prior to 1850, but it was silver that Allen and

Hosea Grosch found a few years later.

They quietly ground

�the blue quartzrand smelted it down in their small assay

furnace.

Henry Comstock, called -^Old Pancake,prospecting

in the canyon at the time, noticed all the secrecy going on^

and knew that the two men had made a strike.

He searched

and watchedbut never figured out where the Grosches were
getting their ore.

He wasn’t even sure whether it was silver

or gold ore that the two brothers worked on in such secrecy.
Word slowly leaked out that gold an(^^or silver had
been found, and soon the hills were dotted with pick and shovel

men.

O’Riley and ;4cLaughlln arrived late

and quickly staked

their claims at the fringe, before those were taken by the

next batch of arrivals.

Later they worked it over thoroughly

and uncovered a gold-bearing quartz ledge.

*^ld Pancake*^

Comstock, as was his habit, immediately claLlmed prior filing,
sen^ to humor him,

deal.

O’Riley and McLaughlin took him in on the

The find was the first tap on what was to be called
Comstock Lode.*^

The ore was dirty and difficult to work.

After

crushing and panning the wash for gold, the discolored re*^
mains were quickly thrown away.

One prospector, familiar

with silver, quietly picked up some of the leavings and had
them assayed.

The discarded waste ran over $4,000 per ton

of silver — more than the value per ton of gold already

extracted I

�Word of the new find brought a second flow of

prospectors.

During the spring of i860

a day were entering the Washoe area.

nearly two hundred

According to one re/^

porter, promoters outnumbered the prospectors

toThe

same reporter gave detailed accounts of the terrain^ and the

weather. He claimed that heavy snow, prolonged runoffs, and
a vicious wind called ‘^Pfie Washoe Zephyr*^made the place

"essentially Infernal in every respecti"
It wasn’t yet known that a heavy body of ore lay
under Davidson Mountain, running parallel to the canyon
floor and the streets of the burgeoning town.

The extent of

the ore would ^^only^^^partly determined during the boom of
the sixties, when half a million a month would be mined.

In

two years that lode would expire and the town would be

deserted.
Then, eight years later, a group of investors

with imagination and foreslte would investigate and catalog
the full extent of the lode.

In the process, the main lode,

the big one underneath, would be found and the real boom
It would last eight years.
Langhorne
Samuel
Clemens, his river piloting job .

would ensue.

interupted by the Civil War, had wandered west to find a new
job.

The papers were full of promises and exaggerations con^

cernlng the big Washoe strike.

Pour thousand claims had been

filed in the single year of i860,

Clemens joined with three

�others suffering from the same fever

and set out for

Virginia City.

The area was touted as the "richest mineral region

on God’s footstool," but Clemens soon found out that $4,000
per ton in the papers was more like $400 per ton on the
ledger.

Clemens, with his three partners, a blacksmith and

two lawyers, filed a claim near the Humbolt Mining Gamp.

They named it the Monarch of the Mountains
dig away at the quartz.

and proceeded to

Digging and blasting proved to be a

difficult way to get rich,

Clemens "resigned" several times.

When the shaft reached a depth of ^^feet, the partners
collected a few of the best samples and headed for Virginia

City to do a little promoting.

Within days

the four had

traded for shares in fifty different mines, all highly touted
but probably Inferior to the (Q:foot hole they had Just left.
Clemens took a Job^ith the Territorial Snterprise

&lt;as a reporterf^or $25 per week.

He filled a vacancy created

when William Wright (who wrote under the name of Dan deQullle)
left town at the suggestion of an ir^te reader.
Wright was one of the greatest liars of all time.
When there was no news

were classic.

he created some, and his creations

One of his best concerned an individual who

had Invented a type of vest or armor designed to let the desert
traveler remain cool even in the middle of summer at the bottom

�of the hottest desert wash.

The vest was actually a larcre

thin spons^e, Wright wrote, with a water reservoir at the

back

and a rubber bulb under the arm to act as a pump.

squeeze on the bulb, and water saturated the vest.

tion of the water cooled the wearer.

A

Svapora-A

The inventor, according

to Wright’s news release, headed into Death Valley on a test

cruise.

A few days later a prospector hurried into a nearby

camp asking for help to go rescue the crazy Inventor.

It

seems the vest worked too well, and he was found sittincr in
the noon day sun, frozen stiff, with a foot-long icicle

dangling from his chin!

Clemens learned a few lessons from Wright,

He

learned to lie with authority and to do it under an assumed
name. At the paper, he signed his work '’^sh,'^*^Later, in

1863, he bevan using the name that brought him fame ~ ^lark
Twain,

Virginia City had two disastrous fires,

Sach time

the town rebuilt even finer than before, but each time the

fire seemed to signal an Impending bust.
The fire of ’63 caused a loss of nearljj^lO million.
4r&gt;115gff.

A fire tower was built on the mountain to spot the

first smoke of the next disaster.

Two years after the town

was rebuilt, the first lode ran out and the town shrank from

15,000 to 6,000.
1/

I3o -

�Location of the bipc lode brought prosperity
again in 1873. Silver was extracted at a phenom’^al rate

million a week,

about

A mint was built in Garson City

to handle the gold and silver.

The town had ^breweries mak­

ing 75»OOO gallons of hard stuff each year, and well over one
hundred saloons were kept busy distributing the supply.
low town, 750 miles of tunnels pursued the huge lode.

was ^900 million dollars worth of

There

ore in that lode,

the end was found, Virginia City collapsed.

When

That happened

Just two years after the second blflr fire.
There had been signs of failure for several years.
Many of the shafts were flooding with hot water.

High

temperatures made for short working times and great expense,
Adolph
A gentleman named^Sutro proposed a (^:mlle tunnel from the lode

under Virginia City to the flats southeast of town.
ceived little encouragement.

Mine owners could see the end

of the lode but weren't about to admit it.
tunnel

He re»^

Sutro built the

and ended up the owner of many of the dewatered mines.

It is doubtful that the ore made available was enough to pay
the expense of the tunnel.

By 1881 the population of Virginia City was less
than iFOO.

That’s about what it is now, on a miserable day

in the middle of the winter.

In the summer, crowds of

tourists fill the streets.

It’s still a boomiandsbust

situation in Virginia City,

�MAP MOTS I

The Virginia City, Mevad^ 15 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map is an excellent source of

detailed information.

�GOLD HILL, ^3VADA

Before it flooded, the Yellow Jacket Mine at
Gold Hill, Mevaday^was the biggest producer on the south end
of the Comstock Lode,

When a blast of dynamite opened a

passage to a hot spring, the tunnels flooded with 170: degree

water.

Miners could work only a few minutes at a time in the

hot^humid atmosphere near the water.
longer than the work shifts.

Hest periods were

3ven allocations of 100

pounds of ice per man per day were not enough to entice men
to stay on the job.
Sventually the Sutro Tunnel was built

and a south

lateral connected with the East Yellow Jacket workings.

The

mine became workable again, but within a short time the lode
was exhausted.

While it lasted, the Yellow Jacket had poured

large payrolls into the life stream of Gold Hill.

Back in 1869, tent towns were strung along the
length of Gold Canyon from the narrows called Devil’s Gate
e.
at the south, on up to side canyons appropriatly labeled
A
Six Mile and Seven Mile. As tunnels located the lodes, the

towns consolidated.

Virginia City and Gold Hill occupied

sites on either side of a low hump in the middle of the

canyon.

Both towns graduated from tent towns to rock and

mud

and^finally, to frame and brick.

When the big lode was

worked, both towns had large numbers of pretentious structures.

�Rivalry was srreat.
annex Gold Hill.

At one time Virginia City attempted to
Gold Hill retaliated by attempting to

split the county into two chunks

and thereby become a

county seat equal in status to Virginia City.

The effort

failed, since it was thought ridiculous to have two county
seats within a mile of each other.

It appeared, in 1864, that the ore had run out.

Things quieted down^and population along the canyon dwindled,

but Gold Hill continued to survive,

part\duejto its loca*?^

tion on the main supply route to Virginia City.

When the

big lode was found, both towns boomed bigger than ever.
Hill zoomed to nearly 10,000

Gold

and bragged of street lamps and

three fire companies.
The ore ran out for the second time in I878, and

in rapid order most of the ponulatlon left for other parts.
Saloons shut down^and the Gold Hill Wews ceased publication.
-----------------------------------------When the post office closed down in 1943, there
Lately

some of

the old buildings have been converted to residences.

Their

were less than a dozen people left in town.

exteriors have been restored to appear as they did one hundred
years ago.

The brewery and old hotel are excellent examples.

The tovm IS loaded with old wayons.

Beer wagons, freight

wayons, bugyies^and stagecoaches are found sprinkled about,

the proud possessions of ^story-minded citizens bent on

reconditlonlny them for display.

�I'UP ?TOTS«

The Vir«3:inla City, Nevada^ 15, minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the town, the Sutro

Tunnel, and a number of the sites of small satellite towns.

�It takes four maps to understand the lay of the

land and to pinpoint items of interest in the White Pine
Mountains of Humholt National Forest in east central Nevada.

Within a radius ofmiles around the juncture of these maps

are enough old town sites, mine rulns^and mill remains to
keep a backtroad explorer busy for a week.

Roads alternately

follow dry canyons and skirt mountains, joining to form a
spectacular threes dimensional network.

The road into Monte Cristo crosses deposits of

e.

soft rock that powders easily to a flour-fine consist|^ncy.

In places
due.

the ruts are a foot deep in the nearly fluid resi^

White rooster tails follow each vehicle, and hang sus^

pended long after their passage
Monte Cristo lies at the

western
edge of the Humbolt

Mountains, on the sloping foothills immediately below 10,745=
foot Mount Hamilton.

The Monte Cristo Spring Is a quarter of

a mile to the east.

A mile to the north, the Silver Sell Mine

hangs In a steep side canyon.

To the southeast

an unnamed

tunnel bores into the west shoulder of Pogonip Ridge,

Monte Cristo was the first camp in the White Pine
District.

Sstabllshed in 1865, it served as a mill town for

the westislope mines.

The ore paid out at less than ^100 a

�ton — hardly enough to spawn a rush.

For three years the

little fives stamp mill pounded away at the stingy ore.

Then

the whole area seemed to explode as 50,000 prospectors stormed

into the White Pine ilountalns.
It started when a hungry Shoshone Indian traded
some silvershearlng rock for a plate of beans.

eventually guided A

The Indian

Leathers, Tom Murphy, and Md Marchand

to the deposit on the far side of a nob that was
sequently named Treasure Hill.

sub/*

The claim staked out was

termed the 'bidden Treasure.*^ Old Mapals Jim had accepted

a plate of beans in trade for a vein that would later be
valued at half a million dollars.

The big rush brought some business to Monte Cristo, but J
nloQ bp^un-ht thnaufriti tho'faet thatfthe big action was in other

parts of the White Pine Moxxntains.
The town continued to suffer along on the same

MinoTi^inria.

inferior ore.

After the excitement passed, Monte Cristo was

still there. It even expanded with a new mill to handle some
better ore being dug Q miles to the west. By I89O, even

the mediocre ore deposits were expended, and the town became
deserted.

Wow there is left onlv a brick smokestack, numerous
foundations, some rock walls^and a sod-roofed structure about

to collapse.

Wearby, the cycle is about to repeat, as tents
and trailers are pitched on the site of a "new strike."

-1^7-

�Freshly planted slyns delineate the claim and express the
hopes of the new developers of the "Marjory Lode

MAP NOTE J

Necessary for a proper guide to the area

are the

Illipah, Pancake Summit, Green Springs, and Treasure Hill,
Nevada 15 minute United States Geological Survey topovrachic

maps.

�HAMILTON, MaVADA u
If the Shoshone Ind lan^ Mapias Jim^had known
that his mountains would Toe overrun by 50,000/^^^^ite men,
he would have gone hungry rather than trade his silver find

for that bowl of beans.

After Murphy, Leathers, and Marchand claimed the
Hidden Treasure Mine in 1868, a boom took place that resulted

^7^

in the construction of a dozen towns, four of which would e^
ceed 5»000 souls.

The around would be torn up, roads built,

and the local rock reassembled in the form of larae multlK*’

storied places of business.

Five years later

empire builders would abruptly leave.

these same

Evidence of their

efforts, the larae rock buildings, would endure somewhat

longer.

Two settlements grew quickly around the first dli^
coveries during the spring of i860one on top of Treasure

Hill, the other on its north slope

miles away.

For a

few months the two communities were considered to be the
same town and were referred to as White Pine, the name given

to the newly created minlna district.
Within

identities.

months

the towns had developed separate

On the hill was Treasure City.

Down below,

enjoying a better climate and a dependable water supply,
was the town of Hamilton.

—

/*•

�Hamilton quickly 'became a promoter’s dream.

Stocks were bought and sold over half a dozen counters.
Fortunes were made overnight, and some were lost even

quicker.

Residential lots sold for a flat

A

corner lot on main street went for §25.000.
The first Fourth of July celebrated in the White

Pine District was a combined effort of the competing towns

of Treasure City and Hamilton.

One town handled the parade

the other the debates and speeches.

A huge American flag

was sewed up, utilizing scrap materials.

The blue portion

o

was cut from a scarf bought from a Mormon family passing

through.

A few days later, when a financial wheel came to

town, the flag served a second purpose.

The financier’s

money was badly needed, and when he demanded sheets for
his straw tick in the local hotel, the flag was torn in

half and sacrificed.
he was.

The investor didn’t realize how lucky

Just a few weeks before, the town didn’t have even

a hotel, and the one building then in existence (a saloon)
was busy 24 hours a day.

Within one year of the strike on Treasure Hill,
Hamilton had 10,000 residents, a school, a debating club,

e

and half the Jezjj.bels in Nevada,

Miners were living in

caves, rock and mud huts ~ even barrels laid end:to:end.

The town was designated as the county seat of newly formed
White Pine County, and in two months a $55.OOOcourthouse

�blossomed.

The business district was several blocks long,

filled both sides of the street, and contained a number of
two:story buildings.
The rush to Hamilton was wilder and faster during

1869 than any gold or silver boom in history.

It seemed

that everyone who had missed out on the Comstock was at
Hamilton, determined to get in on the ground floor.
When a gun fight broke out between two gamblers,

one correspondent from a big city newspaper reported that
shots were exchanged all over town, and "unfortunately

neither one was shot, but an innocent horse was killed."

Nearly two hundred mining companies sent their
bullion out to the rail head at Hlko, 140 miles away.
Hobberies averaged more than one a week.

The Daily Inland Empire published reports of every
new find, and that fall a se+f subdivision was laid out to
handle the Influx of new citizens.

15,000 before winter set in.

The population hit

With winter came the cold

realization that the silver deposits were shallow and soon

would be depleted.

Mining stocks became difficult to unload.

Companies folded, and construction halted in the town of
Hamilton.

By spring
out.

half the citizens of Hamilton had moved

An amazing number of fires broke out in the business

district.

A cigar store owner was caught after setting fire

-///

�to his well-insured establishment.

He might have escaped

a Severn year prison term if he hadn't been spotted shutting

the valve of the water supply.

As a result of this fire,

one third of the town was destroyed.
The town is now completely deserted.

Only rock

walls, some partially collapsed brick structures, a group
of frame homes, and a few sod- roof shanties mark the site.
There hasn't been a fire on main street for almost 100 years.

A

MAP MOTE!

Mecessary for a proper guide to the area are the

Illipah, Pancake Summit, Green Springs, and Treasure Hill,

Nevada^15 minute United States Geological Survey topographic
maps.

�JiaaASUHs

city, ctada [
Wells Pars:o had an office in Treasure City

and

miles down the slope of Treasure Hill at

another office

the town of Hamilton.

Each day the staare brought mall to

Hamilton, and riders raced up the three;mile stretch to
Treasure City.

Bets were placed daily, and when a second

competing line built offices in both towns
became fierce,

the competition

Claims, mlnes^and entire fortunes were

wagered on the mail races,
A walk through the deserted town today yields a

thrill of a different sort.

In some places

Open shafts are everywhere.

the main street through town ha® to make a

quick jog to miss a shaft.

Remnants of rock buildings stretch

for a quarter of a mile under the brow of Treasure Hill.

In

the center of town, a rock wall was built to hold mine waste

from rolling down on.main street.
A
Judging from the
remains, some of the
buildings
business
were two stories high in front and Q stories

at the rear.

Some of the rocks used in construction measured

more than^^feet on a side.

There are remains of more than

two dozen such buildings along the west side of the street.
All are roofless.

Many are merely stubborn corners and

partly crumbled walls.

Records indicate that during the twosyear period
of 1869 and'70, forty-two business establishments were built

�and the population passed the 6,000 mark

The weather on top of Treasure Hill was abominable.
The winters were windy and cold.

When the wind slacked, a

stinging fog called the "pogonip" set in over the city.

It

may have been the first case of inversion smog recorded in

the state.

For a time

Hamilton.

Treasure City threatened to outshine

Hamilton had the county seat, but Treasure City

had the largest stock exchange, and seats sold for

It

had fewer saloons than its neighbor down the hill, but it
boasted a larger business district.

of town.

More than 13,000 claims were filed in the vicinity
S20
Much of the ^weiiL.v' million in silver taken in the

White Pine District came from these minef.

The deposits were

shallow. easilv reachedA and quickly depleted.
'r
When the silver began to run out in I87O

a few

mines remained operating, but even those could see

the

end of their holdings.

The big fire of 18?^ wiped out most

of the frame portion of town.
tered to vote.

eighty yeaiA

3y 1880

only ^^people regis/^

The place has been deserted for the last
The smos- problem has finally been licked .

----------------------------r\ MAP WOTSJ

f

The Illipah, Pancake Summit, Green Springs, and

Treasure Hill, WevadaA15 minute United States Geological

1
V

—■“

Survey maps are a proper vuide to this area.
—------------------------ ?

�J SH^RMAifTOW^^, NSVAD^

Ths sage''”^ush is eight feet tall, and. it grows
all over the flats.

The remains of Shermantown stand above

the sage in a few places

but in the main

/?/

are hidden be?

neath the heavy growth.

-Of all the towns in the White Pine District,
Shermantown had the most desirable location.

Water was

plentiful, the soil was good, and the valley^protected.

was vulnerable to flood, but rainfall was light.

It

The town

only lasted a few years, and the potential danger of flash
flood was never tested.

The springs in town furnished water for eight
stamp mills and two saw mills.

Five smelting furnaces melted

down the concentrate produced by the mills.

The town boasted

a three-story meeting hall, two newspapers, and population of

3,000.

Lots sold for as much as •!^2,000.

Hocco Canyon, north-?

west of town, held a number of paying mines.

The Great Valley,

Homestake, and ^e We Plus Ultra were all

sending ore down the road to Shermantown,

Ore wagons brought

silver chloride down the canyon from HamlJ^^n.

Stage coaches

hauled the pure silver back up the canyon, through Hamilton
on to 31ko for shipment to government mints,
Shermantown's existg^nce was inescapably tied to
that

Hamilton, Treasure City, and 3berhardt.

The latter

was the site of one of the smallest, richest open-pit silver

�mines in the world
When the silver ran out, the mills closed down, and
to exist
Shermantown lost its reason
By 1880, just

eleven years after the town had Incorporated, only one family

remained,

of town

Today the place is entirely deserted.

At the edge

an adobe chimney stands half completed.

Its interior

was never blackened by fire.

Some forming supports remain in,t

side the combustion chamber,

xiemalns of numerous rock bullc^^

Ings are hidden in the deep sap-e^~brush.

Many of the springs

have dried up, and their locations can only be determined by
wreckage
the mill raj^^s nearby. Much of the water runs underground,
providing sustenance to the lush desert growth.

On the flats in the center of the town site, a
small dam has been built to back up water to feed a tiny

crusher and shaker.

Someone had hopes of separating gold or

silver from ore found nearby.

Apparently his hopes expired^

&lt;2^ie machine is rusted and Inoperative.

The 50,000 miners and

prospectors ShSt swarmed over the slopes of the White Pine

Mountains apparently found and extracted just about everything
of value.

MAP MOTS:

The Illipah, Pancake Summit, Green Springs, and

Treasure Hill, Wevada^l5 minute United States Geological Survey

maps are a proper guide to this area._

I,

- -y

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