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                <text>Photograph  taken during World War II of the control tower on the Casper Army Air Base with a B-24 Bomber flying overhead. The U.S. Army Air Base in Casper, Wyoming opened in 1942 to train bomber crews. Photograph labeled: "Official Photograph, U.S. Army Air Forces. Station Photo Lab, AAB, Casper, Wyo." Building sign reads: " Base Flight and Alert Crew." &#13;
&#13;
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                    <text>a little more. 4. Sleep fully clothed. 5. Always follow the
advice in The Milepost, for it rarely lies. 6. Carry a knife, if
only for spiritual reasons. 7. Don’t drive at night—or what
passes for night in the summer months that far north—
because that’s when the big animals, the ones you fear
colliding with, move about. 8. No sex with strangers you
meet along the way. 9. Don’t do drugs. 10. If you do drugs,
don’t go overboard.
'wo hundred miles outside of Whitehorse, in Canada’s
A scrim of clouds retreated, and sunlight poured into
Yukon Territory, I pulled over to let my dog out to pee the truck’s cab, along with the scent of a distant wildfire.
and found a dead arctic fox by the roadside. The fox was in In Whitehorse the Canadian Tire was closed. I’d have to
its summer phase, its coat a bit ratty but otherwise perfect. keep driving on the spare.
There was no blood. The expanse of muskeg swamp and
Under the great iron bridge across the Teslin River,
leaning black spruce went on and on. Rocket, my ten-year- Rocket swam in an eddy, and I called my mother in Vir­
old black Lab, sniffed the dead animal profoundly. Perhaps ginia and told her about my travels. Across the river some
it had been struck by a car, or one of the logging trucks that Canadians were celebrating their nation’s birthday. They
plowed down the Alcan Highway day and night.
sat in canvas chairs in the brilliant sunlight, waded with
I climbed back in my truck. I was traveling home to pale limbs and torsos exposed, and ground over the gravel
Wyoming after spending the month of June in Alaska. I bars in ATVs.
had an outdated copy of The Milepost guidebook splayed
At Watson Lake sunlight blasted the filling station’s
across my lap, more than a hundred pounds of frozen hali­ potholed parking lot. The coffee was sour and the gas
but and salmon in an ice chest in the back, and another criminally expensive, even though they were nearly giving
1,800 miles to go before I reached the US border at Sweet it away in the Lower 48 ever since the stock-market crash
Grass, Montana. The drive from Homer, Alaska, to Casper, the previous September, in 2008.1 pressed on.
Wyoming, is more than three thousand miles, much of it
I bought gas again at Liard River, a dusty, remote
on winding two-lane highways where moose and bears slip outpost. I considered paying twenty bucks to camp at the
from the underbrush and stand in the road. It had already local hot springs, perhaps soak for an hour, but there was
been a rough trip: nonstop rain and a shredded tire near no attendant at the booth, and the mosquitoes were thick.
Tok that had cost me half a day. The tire had oxidized to Also someone had posted “No Dogs” signs everywhere.
my wheel mount, and a US Marine on his way to Texas for The restaurant was closed for the holiday. Inside, a slice
redeployment had stopped and busted the wheel free with of blueberry pie bled weakly on a paper plate. I asked the
a small sledgehammer. I was now driving on the full-size clerk at the gas station about local fishing spots.
spare. If he hadn’t helped me. I’d still be stuck.
“I’m Athabascan,” he said. “We’re not fish Indians.”
I turned down a logging road in search of a place to
He did mention that the last time he’d been down at
camp for the night. It dead-ended in a campfire ring and the falls, there’d been grayling in the pools, swimming in
a pile of half-burnt trash. I crawled into my camper shell, circles Just below the surface. But that had been five years
closed the hatch quickly to keep the mosquitoes out, and ago, maybe more. He looked up at the wall as if the memory
spread my sleeping bag beside my enormous cooler. Rocket might be found there on the crumbling white stucco. The
curled up near my feet.
tackle they had for sale was lame: a flimsy fillet knife. Jars
At 4 AM I woke to the sound of ravens and Jays. While of brightly colored salmon roe, spinners that looked like
Rocket wolfed down his kibble, I made coffee on a gas stove. something a Nebraska farm kid might use to catch crap­
Then we drove on. I planned to stop at the bakery in Haines pie. I shoved off.
Junction to use their Wi-Fi. I was dying to wash my face
with warm water and eat one of the cinnamon buns they
d been doing this for years: driving from Casper to Homer
made fresh each morning, maybe buy a day-old scone and
every June to catch fish, camp on the beaches, live off
a turkey wrap for the road. But when I got there, the bak­ discount day-old pastries, and mix with the cannery work­
ery was closed. Same for the First Nations cultural center ers at the coffee shops that offered free Wi-Fi. Every year
across the street, with its dioramas of earthen houses and I also scouted dilapidated cabins, talked to realtors, and
handwoven snowshoes. Then it hit me: It was July 1, Can­ looked at raw land with red ribbons around the waists of
ada Day. Nearly all businesses would be shuttered for the trees to mark the boundaries, thinking about clearing it to
national holiday. I refilled my tank and kept going.
build my own A-frame. But I was mostly pretending. I can
Having driven the Alcan for years. I’d come up with barely work a flathead screwdriver, much less a chain saw.
a few simple rules: 1. Avoid RV parks. 2. Avoid bars and
The driving force behind these trips was the desire to
liquor stores. 3. Drive as far as you can each day, and then secure over a hundred pounds of halibut and salmon and

T

I

July 2024 ■ The Sun

15

�shuttle it back to Wyoming. I harbored the belief that it
was less damaging and more noble to catch and eat my
own fish. I talked a lot about being self-sufficient. But over
the past few years, I’d seen alarming news from the Alaska
Department of Fish and Game: The fish stocks were fall­
ing right before our eyes. Stream closures and reduced
bag limits were the norm. Still, that June I found myself
standing around a pool on the Anchor River with a group
of other fishermen. There were five or six king salmon in
the pool, and we were casting like mad. Soon there were
three, and then none.
Why didn’t I stop? It’s a fair question. As I walked
back to my truck with a twenty-pound salmon in hand, I
was met with nothing but praise from the others. There
was an odd optimism that this could last forever, a beery
galootism repeated in the glossy magazines selling the
idea of inexhaustible outdoor experiences, even though
the evidence everywhere said different: You had to go far­
ther and farther out to sea to find a decent halibut. The
price of booking a charter boat had doubled, then doubled
again. None of which stopped the hordes of goateed, heav­
ily dressed fishermen from surging northward in search of
more fish. There were more of us now than ever—and we
all wanted the same thing. We kept at it, as if the fishery
would somehow heal itself.
Lately I’d taken the practice further, traveling to warmer
places to fish in the cold months: Mexico, North Carolina’s
Outer Banks, Italy, Louisiana. I dragged coolers through
airports, bought my own vacuum sealer so that I could
preserve fillets wherever I was in the world. It passed for
a lifestyle. I told people it was the “Zoby Method,” but no
one seemed to want to talk about frozen fish. Why didn’t
I just buy it at Whole Foods? They had a point. We were,
after all, living in the most pampered society in human
existence. If I found myself unable to argue. I’d offer the
interlocutor a packet of fish. This almost always worked.
But was it any way to live?

us on the road. The scrub brush had recently been beaten
back by mowing crews, leaving a thick mat of wood pulp
and leaves on the shoulder, but the boreal forest, too pow­
erful to defeat, was already coming back, creeping up on
the highway: large-tooth aspen, black spruce, white birch,
cottonwood.
There were more mosquitoes and more questions:
Where did I live? Why had I been in Alaska? How long
would I be in Canada? I sighed and put Rocket on a leash so
the Mounties could open my camper shell and look inside.
My unorganized fishing tackle made them frown. The 120quart cooler occupied most of the back. I had duct-taped it
shut seventy-two hours earlier after placing ten pounds of
dry ice inside to keep my halibut and salmon frozen. The
officers wanted to see inside.
“Is that really necessary?” I asked.
With a knife the Mountie deftly slit the duct tape. His
partner leaned in to help him open the lid. The extreme
cold inside the cooler created a vacuum, and the lid made
a whooshing sound when it finally came free. Sealed in
plastic, over a hundred pounds of fish greeted them.
“All of that came from Kachemak Bay,” I said. “And
a few early-run sockeyes from the Russian River.” I was
proud of my catch and thought maybe these guys fished.
The whine of a distant chain saw sung out from the woods.
“What do you do with it?” asked the Mountie.
“I live on it. You can’t get fresh fish in my town. I also
give some to friends, have parties.”
“Fish parties?” said the Mountie. They both grinned,
then released me.

had driven sixteen hours straight already that day—my
usual. How much farther could I go? I had done twentyfour hours once but found it to be inadvisable. Your eyes
play tricks on you. Your mind wanders. It’s a miracle I
didn’t have a wreck.
I made it to Prophet River and looked for a place to
park. It was night, but there was still enough light to see
omewhere south of Fort Nelson, British Columbia, I hit bears grazing by the roadside. The pull-out beside the river
a roadblock set by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. seemed like an option. Just as I was laying out my sleeping
As an officer approached my idling truck. Rocket stirred in bag, though, an RV with Washington State plates parked
beside me. A small dog yapped. A man came out and
the camper shell. He’d never liked uniforms.
“Sir, have you had any alcoholic beverages this after­ fiddled with a satellite dish. I took to the highway again,
noon?” the Mountie asked. Mosquitoes were landing on listening to a book on tape—Two Years before the Mast—
his chiseled face—the large black mosquitoes that make to help me stay awake. Finally I saw the distant lights of
summer up north miserable. He allowed five or six to feast Pink Mountain.
I pulled into the first lot I found. It belonged to a camp
on him as if he didn’t know they were there. Well over six
for
oil
workers. Two older men sat in plastic chairs at a
feet tall, he had the kind of face that made it impossible to
round plastic table, an untouched six-pack of Labatt Blue
lie to him. Luckily I had nothing to hide.
“No, sir. I’m driving back from Alaska. Just trying to at the center. One swung a device that resembled a plas­
tic tennis racket—a battery-powered wand of sorts that
get home.”
“No beers? Nothing? Whiskey?” He seemed incredu­ fried mosquitoes and no-see-ums on contact. It crackled
lous that I hadn’t had at least some alcohol to celebrate. and hissed each time it made a pass through the thick air.
His partner stood a few paces away. There was no one but The other pulled out a sparkler, lit it, and held it with no

S

16

The Sun ■ July 2024

I

�joy whatsoever.
“Do you guys know of a gas station where I can pay
for a shower?” I asked.
“There’s dozens of showers in those trailers,” said
the man zapping the bugs. “Take your pick.”
The two explained that the camp had been abandoned
late last year when the oil and gas markets had crashed.
The companies had sent everyone home, even the fore­
man and his wife. These two were caretakers who lived
on-site, ran the generators during the winter to prevent
the pipes from freezing, shooed away curious bears, and
kept everything tidy for the day when the market recov­
ered and the oil and gas companies returned to reclaim
this part of British Columbia—because if these two knew
anything, it was that those companies would be back.
“I drove through here last year, and it was very dif­
ferent,” I said.
“Every one of those trailers was full,” said the man
with the sparkler. “We had a fleet of RVs and wall tents
where we kept directional drillers.” The sparkler fizzled
out, and he reached into a tub for another.
I offered to pay to use the shower, but they wouldn’t
take my money. So I parked my truck beside a random
beige trailer—they were all the same—and fished a
towel from my luggage. A raven took off from the metal
porch railing as I approached. Outside the trailer were
heavy brush mats workers used to wipe the mud from
their boots. Inside were bedrooms with steel-framed
bunk beds whose mattresses seemed more suitable for
children than roughnecks. The floors flexed beneath my
steps as I walked to the tiny bathroom. Body washes,
toothbrushes, and shampoos were carefully lined up
along the shower floor; hairbrushes, pomades, and after­
shaves arranged in a tidy row on the vanity. I killed a
mosquito on the mirror.
In the shower I sampled the various body washes—
soaped up with a blue gel, rinsed it off, then tried a green
one—until the competing fragrances became overwhelm­
ing. Steam condensed on the walls. I stepped onto the
soggy mat and went into one of the bedrooms to dry off.
I expected to see a print of a moose or a pinup of a
beautiful, tattooed woman straddling a motorcycle, but
the walls were bare. Expensive steel-toed boots waited
beside a bed. Fire-retardant clothing hung in the flimsy
closet. How fast had these guys bailed? What was the
hurry? Magazines lay here and there, and books—most
of the self-help kind, but also financial-success tomes
and a paperback biography of heavyweight champ Mike
Tyson. There was an unopened pack of chewing gum on
a dresser. I heard the raven squawk outside.
The two caretakers were firing Roman candles into
the not-quite-dark sky when I returned. They would light
a firework, then scramble away as if their lives were in
danger. The man with the sparklers lit another one and

twirled it in circles, leaving a molten spiral in the air. I
thanked them for the shower.
“You can bed down wherever you want,” said one. “It’s
not like anyone’s coming back anytime soon.”
“I have to keep moving,” I said. Staying at the camp
was too close to breaking rule i: Avoid RV parks. But, more
than that, the atmosphere of forced merriment felt oppres­
sive. Lit by the pale explosion of fireworks, the landscape
appeared to droop. The two men seemed to share a pri­
vate loneliness that had become a national loneliness, and
I didn’t fit into it. I told them about the huge haul of frozen
halibut and salmon I was bringing back to Wyoming. We
introduced ourselves. The man with the sparkler said, “I’m
Jack—Jack of No Trades.” He laughed.
I went to the cooler, pulled out a pack of halibut, and
gave it to the men as a gift. They set it beside the six-pack
of beer and went back to their fireworks.

few miles down the road I discovered an enormous
parking area filled with heavy equipment, mostly Cat­
erpillar D9 bulldozers but other vehicles too: water trucks
used to spray the dusty roads, pilot cars with cracked wind­
shields, trucks with huge booms, earthmovers with tires
taller than my pickup, a red-and-white ambulance from
another era—all battered, mud covered, and clearly not
in use. The scent of grease and oil was powerful. A sign
advertised an auction to be held July 15.
I snuck my truck in among the abandoned vehicles,
finding a sort of alley between bulldozers where I could
set up camp. Rocket sniffed around. We were just a few
yards off the Alcan. No travelers came down the road. I
slept in my jeans. The little knife I keep in the front pocket
dug into my hips.
In the morning I made coffee and sat in a torn camp
chair I had toted around all through June, despite meaning
to throw it out. Rocket peed on a Dg, trotted back to my
truck, and leapt aboard. We were only a few hours from
Fort Saint John, where civilization begins. Canada Day
was behind us, and there would be grocery stores open
and maybe a place to get a decent coffee. Then it would
be on to Grande Prairie, then Edmonton, where suddenly
there would be country-music stations. A few days later,
after driving through the haze of wildfires in the West, I
might make it home, and I’d fill my freezer with this great
harvest of fish and begin telling people about it. And then
what? a little voice in my head asked.
Before we pulled away, I spotted an arctic fox among
the heavy machinery. Sitting poised like a house pet, just
staring at me. It had the same tattered summertime coat
I’d seen on the dead animal two days earlier. I rolled down
the window and made a smooching sound, but the fox
didn’t move, only stared with eyes like black buttons on a
doll. It wasn’t looking at me, I realized. It was looking into
that space that only wild animals can access.
■

A

July 2024 ■ The Sun

17

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