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                  <text>Part II

•I’;'

■■

-.■'jf-.■...■■&gt;

�N. Weis

WASHINGTON AREA 1
t a T y J O 0 0 - WO 1^. S

LIBERTY,

WASHINGTON

11

’~The sun disappeared behind Teenaway Ridge

on my left.
curves.

Highway 97 continued to climb in broad

Horizons lowered as altitude was gained

The sun reappeared frequently, offering brief post/
ponements to the day’s end.

The road leveled and

the sun set for good as I pulled into Liberty Guard

Station,

fifteen miles northeast of Cle Elum in

-1-

�N. Weis

central Washington.

A brief look at the topographic

maps showed that I had passed the Liberty turn'^ff a

quarter of a mile back.

Liberty is located at the

joining edges of the Liberty and Thorp,

Washington^l5

minute maps and the maps have to be matched to make
out the route.

I reached the turn'"'

Retracing my

off and headed east up Williams Creek,
occasional glimpses of quiet pools.

enjoying

Windrowed gravel

banks Indicated the area had been placered heavily.

The last traces were the obvious result of a dredging
operation.

A short two miles from the highway,

the

road crossed Lion Creek, angled slightly right, and
suddenly became the main street of Liberty.

A sign on the left read "For Sale,

Claims,

Cabins."

of the street,

Mining

There were old cabins on both sides

and just visible across the valley was

a string of mining shacks.

My maps indicated that

two tunnels and three shafts were to be found near

the mine shacks.

of town.

The road divided at the upper end

The right fork dead-ended in a quiet clear­

ing, and I made camp for the night.

Making camp was

simply a matter of jockeying the truck about until
two spirit levels were satisfied.

mounted at right angles.

The levels are

One indicates fore and aft

-2-

�N.

slant — the other shows my "roll attitude."
to do a bit of reading,

Weis

I planned

so this night I parked with a

quarter bubble on the left of the level to raise the
head of the bed.

It was a peaceful spot.

The waters of tiny

Boulder Greek rushed by a few feet away.

It was

quite a relief to be camped by a genuine ghost town,
after suffering through three days of high expectations

and dashed hopes.
Reviewing my notes,

appointments In a row.

I counted seven dis­

First there was Maryhill,

south-central Washington.

Once a going town.

In

It had

degenerated Into an orchard and truck farm.

An old

store stood alone among young fruit trees.

Part of

two old ferries were at the banks of the Columbia

River,

put to disuse by a new highway bridge.

On the

hill above town, a replica of England's Stonehenge

seemed strangely out of place.

A few miles away,

the Maryhill Museum overlooked the Columbia from a

lofty perch on the north bank.

of Interest,

Inside were many Items

mostly art objects and European royal

family relics.

It was a fascinating museum,

but not

a single Item pertained to the old town of Maryhill.

Both the Stonehenge memorial and the museum were

-3-

�N. Weis

built by Samuel Hill,

a

famous pioneer in road building.

I speculated as I drove away that many visitors to the
two sites must have departed with the same thought:

"What in Sam Hill?"
Thorp,

one hundred miles north,

next on the list.

shrunk,

town.

had been

Bypassed by the highway,

it had

but was still too lively to be called a ghost
The old water—powered flour mill at the north

end of town was fascinating.
swimming in the mill pond,

Complete with kids

it was a sight guaranteed

to transport the beholder to the time of his childhood.

I would have joined them had I packed a swimTsuit.

One of^the youngsbers offered the loan of his!
To the north,

Greek,

Lester,

investigation,

town.

the towns of Easton,

Cabin

Ronald and Cle Elum all warranted
but failed to fit the category of ghost

With mild irritation I recalled my troubles

with a loud and perslsV^nt cafe operator who ranted
so continuously that no one could mount a response.

He badgered me to buy something or he "wouldn’t answer

a damn question!"

I ordered coffee,

handed it back to him with the

paid for it,

s u ggestion that he

drink it, and treat the customers to a few seconds
of blissful quiet.

then

�N. Weis

And that reminded me of the quiet that
permeated my campsite at Liberty.

I was again relaxed,

anxious only for the next day to arrive.
The morning was cool, and the skies were

clear overhead. A few puffy clouds were climbing over
the hills to the west.

The conditions were ideal for

photographing the old mine shacks that extended down
the south side of the valley.

The first cabin was

securely locked with a hasp of unique construction.
A large saw blade,

hinged at one end,

entire width of the door.

spanned the

A square hole,

burned through with a cutting torch,

obviously

allowed a U-bolt

to be exposed far enough for a gigantic padlock to

pass through its eye,

A long

rear marked the beginning of a tunnel.

shed at the

The shoring

was rotted and collapsing,
A bit fjlrther west was a smaller shack with

a vertical mine shaft located in its center.

There

was barely room to stand inside between the walls and
the shaft.

A shaky rotted ladder extended downward

beyond view.

There was no hoisting wheel mounted

above the shaft, and no evidence of one ever having

been installed.

Perhaps the old shaft was used merely

as an inside cooler for food storage.

A horizontal

tunnel penetrated the hill a few yards from the shack.

�N. Weis

An eighth of a mile downstream was a small
building with lots of character.

Some of its wid®

roof boards had warped to near rain-gutter proportions.

A ramshackle rear stoop was on its last legs.
door was battened shut,

but part of the south wall

I poked my head inside,

was missing.

The

and after a

moment getting used to the dim light,

I made out a

wooden floor and some old furniture.

One step inside

was enough.

With a hollow groan,

the floor sagged

like a trampoline.

I could make out a large trap'^

door in the center.

Another shaft,no doubt.

a rock onto the trap~}ioor.

I tossed

The punky empty sound

demonstrated that further exploration would be fool^
hardy.

The solid earth outside felt reassuring.

Behind this cabin were a number of shafts nearly
hidden by heavy brush.

Some were covered with three—

inch-diameter poles too rotted to support one’s
weight.

Their partial collapse indicated that some

ipnwary creature had broken through.

attest^to
The numerous shafts and tunnels indicated
A

a considerable hard*rock mining effort,
a vain effort,

but it was

for most of the gold taken in the

area was placered from Williams Greek,

-6-

�N. Weis

In 1867,

Benton Goodwin,

the first sizeable gold deposit.

a deaf-mute,

found

He uncovered a two-r-^

dollar nugget at the junction of Swauk and Williams
ireek*^ when he kicked over some rocks to make it

'

a''/,

easier to gather cooking water.

Greatly excited,

he

put the nugget in his mouthy and ran squawking back
to campj

Members of the party panned gold furiously

all summer.

Some pans ran to one thousand dollars,

and a good gravel bar yielded up to six hundred dollars

per day.

Inevitably, word leaked out, and miners

poured in.
The first community established was called

Meaghersville, and was located at the site of the
original discovery.

As gold was panned out and the

hot activity moved up^ream,
convenience.

camps were moved for

The town migrated two miles up Williams

Creek to its present position.
the
slacked, and^Chlnese moved in.

By 1884 the boom had

A few years later,

white miners held mass meetings and demanded the
Chinese leave.

It had been determined that hydraulic

operations would pay off, and deserted claims were
again valuable.
Scott Darling opened a store in I892,

"everything you could want - Miners supplies,

-7-

selling

fishbait.

�N.

Weis

A post office was

gum boots, and bug juice."

established and the town was officially designated

"Liberty."

Liberty was^X^w^^ij^ deserted in 189? when
the Yukon ^trlke lured most miners away.

dredge was brought In from Sumpter,

activities boomed again.

Some wire gold in

but the big lode was never tapped.

During the depression,
to

a few hard-up miners moved in

"pan wages," but pockets miss

were rare.

Oregon, and

Hard rockers s^nk shafts

in search of the mother lode.
quartz was found,

In 1925 a

by the dredges

Slowly, Liberty became deserted.

Scattered throughout town are relics typical
of the various booms that Liberty enjoyed.

The oldest

are probably the log structures that dot both sides
the
o:^maln street for nearly a quarter mile.

A number of the cabins were used for a time
as places of business.
and repair.

disrepair.

On some,

Many show signs of loving care
the repairs are falling in

Sheets of metal roofing placed over scant

shingles are loose and floppy.

Thick butt shakes have

been tacked over the metal and now they are falling

away.

-8-

�N.

Weis

A water-|whe el-powered rotary goldiwasher

rests Intact at the east edge of town.

A small ditch

still carries a minimal flow of water to the wooden

trough that in turn feeds the water to the upper

portion of the wooden wheel.

The wheel stands about

twelve or fourteen feet high and is equipped with
perhaps four dozen slanted boards that catch the flow

of water.

An iron axle transports the power to a

series of belts and chains which result in not only

turning the drum, but in powering a small endless belt.
The belt lifts the gold-*-bearing gravel from the bln to

the mouth of the drum, where it is treated with water
and agitated.

Unwanted gravel flows out the far end

of the drum like concrete from an over'^ull ready-mix
truck.

Periodically the drum is scoured and the gold

concentrate is panned out by hand.

At the west end of town there is another
gold washer.

Built to more modern specifications,

operates on the same principle,
Diesel engine,

it

but is powered by a

and appears to have a capacity hundreds

of times that of its counterpart across town.

It was in Liberty that the "Incident of the
rock" supposedly occurred.

repeated,

A favorite story, and often

it has a number of variations’*"^] .j. i. The

-9-

�N,

grizzled old prospector,

Weis

tired after ten hard hours

spent on the blister end of a pick, was contentedlyeating his home-cooked supper.

A two-ton rock came flying through the

happenedI
roof,

smashed the table flat, and drove It,

and all,
stew,

That's when It

clear through the floor.

boiling mad,

but unhurt,

supper

Spattered with

the old gentleman sat

then he rose,

swiped the stew from

his face^and ystalked outside.

He planted his feet

there a moment,

wide and firm.

canyon,

With a voice heard for miles down the

he bellowed^ &lt;tv^'A11 right, dammlt‘^~^who

threw It?"

-10-

�N. Weis

BLEWETT, WASHINGTON
There are a number of historical accounts

I read two of them

concerning the town of Blewett.
and found little agreement.

A third account sided

with neither of the first two,

hence the vague nature

chosen because they were

of the following few items,

consistent in some small measure.

Gold in quartz or nugget form was found by
a soldier,

perhaps a captain,

in 185^ or (^5.

The

The area was noted either

town started about 1861.

for its small nuggets found only near bedrock,

or its

thousand-dollar nugg^gfB^ found nearly everywhere.
About 187^,

nearby Culver Gulch.

gold in quartz was found in

The veins ran narrow and rich,

or up to eight feet wide.

In 1880,

the action slowed

and the town died — or — the place was a boomer until

1890, when the rush was in full swing!

A twenty-stamp

mill was built in 1879 by the Chelan Mining Co.

For

a while it turned out ten thousand gold bricks a week.

Some of the facts are obviously "Chamber of
Commerce."

Like the ten thousand bricks a week.

Any

gold brick worth its name weighs at least thirty

pounds and was worth,

in 1890, about ten thousand dollars.

Now ten thousand bricks a week adds up to one hundred
iaillion dollars in gold per week — far more than the

-11-

�N.

Weis

area’s lifetime production.
Blewett’s past is hidden behind a disastrous

fire, and the destruction of most of the surviving
buildings by construction of a highway through town.

Later the highway was made wider,

and Blewett’s visible

trace of history became even narrower.
About all one can be sure of in Blewett/

is that the site is located twenty-one miles north
of Liberty, and if you don’t look clos^ you will miss

it.

Four buildings remain on the north side of

the road,

two of them original structures of Blewett.

One is said to have been a shoemaker’s establishment,
the other a wood shed.

Across the highway are two

structures of more obvious background.

One,

an old

stamp mill,

shows that four bays of stamps were once

in action.

A bay of stamps was traditionally five

stamps.

Near the mill is the old smithy,

with a few

items of original gear still within.
What makes a visit to Blewett worthwhile

is the marvelous old stone arrastra.

ore crusher,

built in 1861 or 18?^,

been water*^ower driven.

This drag^stone

is said to have

The explanation seems likely,

since it is located adjacent to Peshastln Creek.

-12-

Much

�N, Weis

of the ore from the earlier shafts and tunnels was
processed here for a percentage of the gold retrieved.

Dozens of prospect holes and horizontal
tunnels can be found within a mile or so of Blewett.

According to the Liberty,
topographic map,

Washington,

15 minute

more than a dozen tunnels are located

in Culver Gulch immediately behind the old mill.

-13-

�N, Weis

DISAUTEL, WASHINGTON

Disautel stands alone,

far removed from the

other ghost towns visited in the state of Washington.
It is not shown on the area map at the beginning of
the chapter, but may be located on the Disautel,

Washington,

15 minute topographic map.

gravel road 155 heads

in north-central Washington,

east.

In fifteen miles,

the right (south),

From Omak,

a lesser road branches to

crosses

Omak Creek, and Immediately

branches into the various streets of Disautel.
To the left is a huge garage,

a number of residences,

and beyond are

one of them occupied.

The

road to the right leads past a row of look-alike homes,
by
then windsa number of residences of mixed vintage.
On the hill is a strange-looking structure.

It appears

to be a small store with a gabled false front complete
with a pointless window that opens to^e air in both

directions.
Louis Whlstocken^who lives in town, was
happy to talk about the history of Disautel,

and to

discuss the nature of its remnants.
The funny structure on the hill was not a
store,

but the rear wall and wash house of a home that

had been partially dismantled.

The large building in

the center of town was once a barn for logging teams,

then a garage for logging trucks.

Louis explained^

�N.

Weis

that the trucks put many of the loggers out of work.

A railroad once carried logs from Disautel to the
sawmill at Omak.

When the area was logged out,

the

j^lghway department used the garage for housing road

.

.

Highway Department
Later, when the Statfee moved
A
Only two families remained.

.

maintaining equipment.
out,

the town died.

Louis Whistocken is a handsome man of

Indian ancestry.

His last name was his dad’s first

name, and meant "walk on the arm."

in spite of his name, was a very

add that his father,

wel]»educated man.

Louis hastened to

Louis*

main interest was rodeo,

until he got bent up.

"Busted my knees a few times

had three specialties,

steer ropin’,

bull doggin’ and

saddle bronc. Used to win my share of prize money
even after my knees gave out."

On the way out of town I came upon two

more bronc busters.

The meeting was a near collision.

It looked like I would head them off at the bridge^ but

at the last moment^ the two young riders veered their

mounts sharply and headed for the stream.
speed,

At full

they flew over the backs of their ponies and

splashed heavily in the water.

Shortly,

they both

emerged, laughing — each hanging on to his pony’s
tail,

enjoying a tall drag onto dry land.

they galloped off,

Remounted,

then turned and headed back to

$

�N. Weis

repeat their performance.
stepped out,

I stopped the truck and

camera In hand.

The encore was out­

The third go-round was even better, and

standing,

the fourth performance rated a cold bottle of pop

all around.
We sat on the tailgate of my truck and

talked,

Dave was twelve and Leon was fourteen.

were brothers,

sharing the last name of St.

They

Peter.

Their father had been killed riding saddle bronc at

a rodeo a few years back.

In spite of this,

the two

boys both plan to become championship rodeo hands,

Dave pointed out the old Brooks residence

just across the creek.

It was

aroundLeon chimed in,

"the ghostiest place

"We stayed over there

once — clear after it got dark — scared us — it

sure is haunted!•

I looked back as I drove away,

I could

see the two of them shaking up the last of their pop •
then thumbing the stream of foam carefully against
their tongues

t, .-ryand each other.

�N. Weis

’’The wooded slopes and fractured ridges that
make up the Okanogan Highlands in north-central Wash­

Here

ington constitute a ghost town hunter’s paradise.
within a few miles of the Canadian bo3?der, are the
remains of four ghost towns.

Born of a short-lived

mining boom, they maintained a shaky existence through
1900’s
'

the early

hundroda as agricultural communities

A

-1-

Le/afJi

�N. Weis

The last to die was Molson,

correctly,

the three Molsons.

or more

The story is unbelievable,

but thoroughly documented,
John Molson,
promoter,

investor, and George Meacham,

decided to combine their respective funds

and talents to create a town.

Molson,

the man with

the money,

had large sums invested in the Poland China

Gold Mine.

The mine was located high on the North Pork

of Mary Ann Creek,

just two milesof the Canadian

border, and not considered a fit site for the town.
A flat area four miles west of the mine was selected,

and the town laid out.

Named for Molson, but never

graced by his presence,

the town grew from nothing

in 1900 to a population of three hundred in one year.

Then the town nearly died when Meacham,

the promoter,

had a bad hassle with the new town fathers and left
for Texas,
In the first year^ the promoters had invested

seventy-five thousand dollars.

A drug'^store was built,

and a dentist and a lawyer set up practice.

The

Molson Magnate was to have printed up the first

paper.

Perhaps a few issues were run off the presses,

but no one recalls ever having seen a copy,

-2-

�N. Weis

The ornate three-story Tonasket Hotel was
the big drawing card.

It had a full-glass front, and

a wrap-around second-story ballustrade.

More than

sixty full-height windows gave the three_story
structure an impressive appearance.

The two outboard

windows on the false front were strictly decoration.
They smacked of empty promotion, as did brochures

showing steamboats coming up Baker River to dock near
the hotel.

Baker Creek was in reality the seepage

of a few springs a mile to the south.

Ore deposits at the Poland China were thinning,

and Molson suffered.
to be doomed.
In 1904-,

W. W.

For several years the town seemed

Then a trickle of homesteaders appeared.

Parry built a store and grain warehouse.

Rumors of a railroad were widely spread in 1905, and

a new j/ercantile went into business.
crews did,

in fact,

The railroad

builjK the tracks right past town.

Eight saloons grew from the ground overnight "like

mushrooms," and a deputy was hired.

The town was

booming and lots were selling at a premium.

J. H.

McDonald filed his homestead.

Then

No one had

bothered about land ownership, and Old McDonald

had a farm of considerable wealth after he planted
the corners of his legally allotted one hundred sixty
A
acres.
His quarter section of land Included forty
acres of Molson,

Hotel Tonasket included I

-3-

Molson,

Washington

�N. Weis

Legal notices to vacate were posted, and

lawsuits led to countersuits.

Storekeeper Parry

considered the situation hopeless,

mercantile half a mile north.

and built a new

Sev/Cal businesses

followed, and a new residential area was created.
Lots in the new Molson had the advantage of uncontested

ownership.

By 1906, New Molson and Old Molson were of

equal size and temperament.
Arguments never stopped, and fislfYights

were common occur^nces.

A gun fight was threatened

once when a resident named Sutherland complained of
his neighbor's pigs trespassing on his property.

Sutherland met his adversary in the middle of Main
- .45«s.
Street, with two loaded^forty-^ives-.
He offered one
A
to his opponent, but was refused.
The fight was a

failure, but the pig problem was permanently resolved.
By 1908,

of Molson.
a bank.

McDonald had fenced in the old town

That year,

Mr. L. L. Work decided to build

He chose Old Molson, but could not gain legal

ownership of a suitable plot of ground,

so the bank

was built on skids in the middle of Main Street.

It

opened for business a different place each morning.
Finally a lot was designated and the bank was

ceremoniously planted.

Procedures were temporarily

-4-

�N. Weis

1nterupted when the participants paused to watch,
then take part in one of the better street fights in

Molson’s history.
( Miraculously,

in 1914 the two enemy camps

combined efforts "for the good of our kids," and
built a three-story brick schoolhouse.

It had a

gymnasium in the basement, and steam heat in every
room,

but the two outhouses were still placed out

back as a sanitary measure.
Built precisely half way between the two

towns, the school became the nucleus of a third town.
Those tired of fighting in the name of town pride were

quick to build homes and places of business in "Center
Molson."

Potter built a mercantile, and Dunn built a

fancy theater.

Addition of a barbershop and pool hall

made the new "town" the entertainment spa of the

surrounding territory.
The two extremes of Molson continued to
fight.

one.

If one had a new dance hall,

the other built

When an auto dealer began to sell /Oakland^ in

Old Molson, a dealership was quickly established in

New Molson selling ^Maxwells.'*

Proud owners drove

to Center Molson to compare notes.

the post office,

Old Molson had

so New Molson opmpaigned to have one

-5-

�N. Weis

of their citizens elected postmaster.

They succeeded

in 1920, but Old Molson citizens wouldn’t give up the

post office.

When the old postmaster went to lunch,

a few New Molsonites stole the works and moved it to
"its rightful location,"

The fights and arguments continued into
the twenties,

but they were largely academic,

since

all three towi^ were shrinking due to Improved trans­
portation and removal of the railroad.

happens when business fails,

As often

the hotels and stores

A few of the stores struggled

burned down one by one.

on for a number‘of years.

One of them lasted until

1955.

The railroad tracks have been removed, but
access to the various Molsons is still easy.

The

road east from Oroville is a good blacktopped secondary.

Fifteen miles out,

a gravel road branches to the left.

About six miles north on this road stand the remains
of* the three Molsons,

The^^t^

Bonaparte,

Washington,

15 minute map shows the layout of the Molsons as well

as Ghesaw,

Bolster, and Havlllah.
Now,

in 1970, all of the stores in the three

Molsons are closed and the school is deserted.

Only

a handful of people are left to carry on the fight,
and they seem to be uninterested.

-6-

�N. Weis

At old Molson,

three buildings have been

Among them is the old bank building.

preserved.

Fully equipped with memorabilia of the times,

it is

an excellent museum of the early I9OO agricultural
era.

Surrounding the old bank is a multitude of

ancient farm machinery.

powered tractors,

steam—-'"
and
*—&gt;
reapers, cultivators#
A
f

Horse powered saws,

threshers,

are there.
At New Molson,

or just plain Molson,

a

T-shaped intersection is lined with nearly a dozen
Outstanding are the Pratt

substantial buildings.

and Chamberlin two---story rock or concrete structures

that were built in 1913.

On the corner is the G, L.

Diamond S^^re with a sign in front stating "For Sale,
Inquire wihln or ...."and that is all.

Fire Axs

destroyed part of the interior, but much of the
&lt;

AL*'*------ -

1/

counterwork and some scattered merchandise ts- still
inside.

Next to the Diamond Store is a wood and

metal building that is still full of old hardware.
Nails,

rusty bolts,

bent gutter work and other

worthless items are strewn all about.
the front reads

The sign on

"McCoys Cash Store — Meats and

Groceries ,"

-7-

ar

�N. Weis

A hundred yards south of the Diamond Store
is the quaint old broad-porched headquarters build­

ing of the Eastern Okanagan Telephone Company.

Its

picturesque multl-paned front ^Indow and pompous

false front make it the classic structure of Molson,
Center Molson has the school and grange

hall.

The school has a T^Vj antenna on its roof,

and cord after cord of weathered firewood stacked at

its foundation.

The basketball court is still in the

school basement.

It isn’t hard to Imagine a game in

progress.

Bitter enemies must have gathered here to

sit in close proximity.

Perhaps they even joined

together momentarily to give three cheers for the
Molson basketball team.

-8-

aJ th.

�N.

Weis

GHSSAW, WASHINGTON
Ten miles east of the Molson Jiinction,
the banks of Meyers Greek,

on

stands the town of Chesaw.

Once the prime rival of the Molsons,

It has been

reduced by time and fire to a precious few buildings,
A country store continues in operation and a dozen or

so people live nearby.

July,

Once a year,

on the Fourth of

up to six thousand people flock to the famous

Chesaw Fair and Hodeo, and Chesaw looks like its old
self again --but on this quiet summer day,

only one

car was parked on Main Street,
Beyond the little general store is a small

log structure that has been converted to a double­

In 1900,

doored garage.

"Home Millinery" shop.

this was Minnie Carpenter’s
In its display windows the

latest feathered fashions were changed as rapidly as
styles required.

There were several other hat shops,

among them "Mrs,

Commodore Johnson's Millinery Shop,"

where the tastes of the younger generation were counted

North of Minnie’s Millinery is the false-

fronted Townsite Building,

Once there was a bold

sign along its flank reading "TOWNSITE OFFICE" indi­

cating it was a real^estate office,
perhaps both.

or town halli

Between the Townsite Building and

-9-

�N.

Weis

Minnie’s is the largest remaining building in Chesaw,
It has been used for a number of purposes,

best remembered as the Chesaw Bank.

but is

Later it was

the town’s post office, and more recently it has

served as a residence.
One of the first mining services offered
in Chesaw was that of assayer,

J.

P. Blaine.

His

small smelter and laboratory building stands on the

right side of the street at the extreme north end

of town.

The hipped-roofj^square-log structure is

plumb and sound of wall,

but its shingles are blowing

away in batches, and the lean-to shed behind is in Ou
shambles.

The tree that stands behind matches the

'

building, With sturdy trunk topped with broken limbs

and

dead

branches,
A quarter mile north of town are the squat

remains of a two—story log and frame house.
beautiful home,

Once a

it now presents a study in angularity.

The left gable leans out.

The ridge'^ole has broken

and permitted the roof to drop at the center.

One

comer has sunk and carried one side of the entry

cubic^ with it,

creating another set of distortions

from the vertical,
Chesaw was named after ”Chee-Saw," an early

Chinese settler who took an Indian wife and settled

JL 0 ***

�N. Weis

near a commonly traveled ford on Meyers Greek.

In

the 1800*s visitors to Ghee-Saw’s Ford spotted some
traces of gold in the creek.

Word of the gold spread,

but since the area was in the Golvllle Indian Reser­
vation,

no prospecting was allowed.

In I896, with

morals adjusted to fit the pocketbook,

the white man

opened half the /i^eservation to mineral claims.

Promptly,

a»ory good pasturesand fieldswere taken

by whites^ as placer claims.

The town"~site of Ghesaw

was laid out on land obtained by filing a half-dozen
Some honest mineral claims

false claims side by side.
t

were made,

however,

on outcrops that looked promising.

Iron and copper were the first ores taken in hard-'^
rock operations,

the

Ast er,

Gonslderable iron has come from

'’^Polaris,

and the /Roosevelt

placer^old was "spotty,"

The

One claim might yield

eighty dollars a pan, and twenty feet away another
claim would be worthless.
The ^Gold Axe*- on Buckhorn Mountain was

the first to produce gold from hard rock.

Eventually

high-grade ore was produced in quantity, and mills

were built at the north edge of Ghesaw and at a

road

junction about three miles to the south.
By 1900 Ghesaw was a sizeable log community

of two hundred population.

-11-

It grew rapidly into a

�N. Weis

full-blown town with two three-story frame hotels, and

a population (on a Saturday night, and counting dogs)

ahe-—
that neared the/^thousand mark.

Josh Clary's
saloon In town.

"Greenwood" was the busiest

Fred Fine’s paper,

//he Meyers Creek

Ne^,\ aligned Itself solidly with the editorial
policies

of the Republican ^arty, and printed a little

news on the side.

The-Barker Hotel burned in I906,

and @years

lateri three more of the town's larger buildings were
destroyed. *
y^burned^
Mining operations were dropping off as lodes

were depleted.

The Greenwood Saloon was sold and

converted toca church.
roof,

A steeple was tacked’on the

extending only slightly above the saloon's

false front.

In the twenties,

the automobile led people

to the bigger towns, and Chesaw declined at an
increasing rate.

Many buildings were scavenged,

Pires racked the town in I950 and again in 1959.

But the population of Chesaw is now

increasing.

Recently a couple bought the old eight-"^

sided silo behind the general store.

Stained a

dark brown and fitted with a spiral staircase
and handsome front door,

it makes a proper summer

home.

p.

-12-

�N, Weis

BOLSTER, WASHINGTON
D.

Drill»

G.

Jenkins was the editor of the Bolster

Generally outspoken, he was particularly acidic

as he wrote his last editorial.

He had learned why so

few subscriptions had been bought.

the paper.

Most

borrowed

Some even split the cost and passed the

paper around.

Editor Jenkins wrote»

To those upon

whose backs a fungus growth sere and yellow is

clinging

, Those who for the past year have

borrowed the

paper.j

.j.which wasn’t no good no how,

I offer my sympathy!"

He closed his office and departed

town.
Bolster,

just two miles north of Chesaw,

once threateened to outshine its southern rival.
one year,

For

each called the other a "suburb,"

It was in 1899 that J. S.
the Commonwealth Placer Claim,

McBride bought up

paced off a main street,

named the place "Bolster," and proceeded to sell lots.

The Hamilton Store was already there,

and soon a corner

of the store was designated as post office, with the

storekeeper as postmaster.
stores sprang into action,
up.

Within a year,

two more

and three saloons opened

Thirty homes were built,

and Editor Jenkins

started up the paper with high hopes of success.

-13“

�N.

A three-story hotel,
parts,

Weis

the mark of success In these

was constructed, hut never quite finished,'

Bolster collapsed!

It seemed to follow

the mining trend closer than Ghesaw, and perhaps

the loss of Its newspaper had some effect.

The

town’s people drifted to Ghesaw and Molson,

School opened for one

post office closed In 1909.

year In I9IO,

then closed.

The

By 1916 the only citizens

left were seven bachelor prospectors, and they finally
left or died.

The remains are sparse,

A large false-X^

fronted saloon stands at the edge of a cultivated

field,

Its three bay windows are vacant,

A false

front extends half heartedly toward the ridge-pole,
and part of It Is blown away.

The north wall sags

and will soon fall,and will probably take the rest
"^with it,
of the building alon^
similar structure,

Just beyond the saloon Is a

but without a false front.

may have been a store,

It

but has been used as a bam
!

SO long that all signs of human occupancy are gone.

Half a dozen cabins are scattered about,

last used^

perhaps^by the seven lonely prospectors.
There isn’t much left to see or explore at

Bolster,

The few old buildings seem sad and dejected.

-1^-

�N. Weis

Only one man could look upon this lonely scene with any
measure of satisfaction.

Jenkins,

-15-

That man would be Editor

�HAVILLAH, WASHINGTON
Martin Schweikert built a grist^^

In 1903,

mill and store near the junction of Antoine Greek

and Mill Greek,

at a point three miles west and

ten miles southwest by road from Ghesaw,
good; and in a few years Mr. Schweikert,

first postmaster,
mill.

Business was
the town’s

built a larger steam,powered flour

The boiler and other parts were railroaded

into Molson, and then freighted sixteen miles to
Havillah by oxen.

constructed,

Grain storage buildings were

and soon fine white flour was flowing

from the mill.

Packed in carefully weighed sacks,

it sold far and wide under the trade name of "Gold

Sheaf."
Soon a log school was built,
ydhurch constructed.

Havillah,

and a Lutheran

pronouned "HaVEBlah,"
—— —

was rapidly approaching its maximum size.

In 1917 a handsome new tall-splred church

was built.

A deep ravine cuts across in front of

the church,

requiring access via a wooden foot bridge.

Although the bridge is In doubtful repair, and the
church looks somewhat tattered at the windows,

sign out front proclaims weekly services led by
Reverend Wlnterstein.

-16-

the

�N. Weis

The little log schoolhouse has become an
Y-«si

out building for one of the remaining
Stoutly resisting decay, with windows boarded over,

it is hung all about with the wire, ladders,

cables,

chains and the miscellaneous parts that farmers
always save.

When the Schweikert

was converted to a school.

|llll

closed down,

it

A second-story access

had to be added as a fire escape.

Enclosed,

and

lighted by two small windows, the stairway cranks
its way down the side of the building, around the

corner, and ends at the next corner,

having traversed

nearly half of the building’s perimeter.
Havillah Isn’t much of a place anymore^
of course^ ^t never did measure out to be much of a
place — until you added up the- friendships,

the

memories, and the good times that were yesterday
in Havillah.

-17-

�N. Weis

I

-------- ’^he road northeast from Wauconda parallels

Todora Creek along its entire length,

the creek's

terminating at

juncture with Kettle River.

along this scenic route,
is the site of Bodie,

About midway

fifteen miles from Wauconda,

Washington,

Forested slopes

broken by occasional barren outcrops and footed by
grassy flats make the trip to Bodie one of pleasant

-1-

�N. Weis

variation,

Todora Creek bounces along, nearly always

visible|from the road, and gently audible at each

The Bodie Mountain,

crossing.

n‘iAp

Washington^

opo

is a definite aid to exploration.

Part

of this map Is reproduced in the introduction.

Bodie has half a dozen buildings strung
out along the road,

Most of the cabinsiare stained board and

the creek.
'batten.

mostly on the east side,vnext to

Across the

Only one is of log construction.

street is the deserted Bodie ^chool,

complete with

wood^shed and twin houses out back.

The second story

of the schoolhouse appears to have been an apartment,
perhaps an early version of a teacherage,

Bodie was established as a mill town about
1900.

At one time it had a store,

house,

bunkhouse^and hotel.

post office,

cook^*

Almost every resident

worked for the Perkins Milling Company.

The giant

stamp mill processed much of the ore taken from the

Golden Reward and the Elk (later the Golconda) /fines.
Business was good up until the late thirties.

shut down — and so did Bodie.
Since then,

The mill

In 1962 the mill burned.

things have been pretty quiet.

You can almost hear the silence in Bodie,
especially at sunset.

Later,

by moonlight, the old

cabins in town take on a new look.
seem luminous,

Bleached boards

and fence posts show half outlines.

-2-

Bodie, Washington

�N. Weis

Clouds scattered above reflect the dim light and

stand out boldly against the pitch-dark sky.

The morning light divorced Bodie of its
nocturnal beauty.
dingy.

One,

Some of the cabins looked downright

however, was in fine trim,

recently

repaired, and protected by a sign that made me think
twicer

"NO TRESPASSING — SURVIVORS WILL BE PROSECUTED^

�N. Weis

OLD TODORA, WASHINGTON
Indian trails generally followed the streams,

and the white man often built his wagon roads on top
of the trails.

Consequently, where streams

Joined,

roads also met, and there towns sprang into being.

Todora was established at the confluence of
Cougar and Todora ^reeks,

northeast of Wauconda.

It

mushroomed into existence shortly after I896 when
the area was opened to mineral claims.

By I898 there

were twenty-five cabins strung out along the Inter-section.
road,

Aligned on both sides of the north-south

there was a store,

smithy, assay office, and

post office.

It appeared to be a growing town,

but rumors

concerning the nearby mines were circulating shortly

after its post office was established.

The suggestion

was made to move the town north four miles where the
mines were more promising.

The town stayed,

of course,

but eight months after Todora received its post office,
it was moved and given the name of Bodie.

Later a

post office opened twenty miles farther northeast,
using the name Todora.

The original Todora then took

on its present designation,

"Old Todora."

Along Old Todora's main street are three of

its original business houses and ai, number of cabins.

�N. Weis

the
One of the cabins on the east side of.main street was

A

probably the residence and office of Postmaster Frederick
Just north is the badly decayed structure

Rosenfelt.

that once housed the local assaye?s^

office.

Its

walls are sagging and its roof poles are nearly barren

of shingles.

On the west side of the street the

blacksmith’s shop stands nearly roofless.

and its gables enclosed with

log walls are well joined,

Adjacent and to the north,

broad rough-hewn boards.

is the Schmellng General Store,

brothersI

Its solid

Carl and Herman.

once operated by

The roof was extended six

feet to the front to provide shade for window-shoppers

and inveterate whlttlers.
Just west of Old Todora is a modern country
home.

I stopped in to ask about Old Todora, and was

heartily;

welcomed by the Atchisons.

Over huge

stacks of pancakes topped with buttered syrup, we

discussed the deserted towns and mining camps in the
area.

After determining the nature of each building

in Old Todora,
Washington,

I mentioned that my Bodie Mountain,

Topographic

(15 minute)

map indicated a

large mine three miles upstream on Cougar Creek.
The Atchison brothers,

S.

G. and Charlie,

its existence and elaborated.

&gt;5-

confirmed

Called the Sheridan

�N. Weis

Mine Gamp,

it had a number of buildings including a
That made it a ghost town in my

mill and dormitory.
book.

I thanked the Atchisons and headed for the door.

Before I could leave,

Charlie added,

"You might go on

up a couple of miles and look over the old town of
Sheridan,

There’s a dozen buildings there,

some made

of logs — three stories high — and a hotel with
dance hall on the second floor — balcony^tool "

The map was quickly spread^ and the site
located.

Beside the first sharp switchback above

the head of the creek were two empty squares,

ting deserted buildings.

Charlie was surprised the

"It’s on the old Sheridan

map showed even that much,
Road,

indica­

you know — used to go all the way to Republic,

but it’s been blocked with trees for years."
Mrs. Atchison volunteered,

"Not too many

people know about the place — last bunch in there

punctured their oil pan.

We had to go up and rescue

Of course they had to walk all the way dovrn.

their car.

Amidst warnings of deep ruts and boulder-::^

strewn switchbacks,
information,

I thanked them for pancakes and

then set off for Sheridan Camp and

Sheridan Town,

-6-

�N. Weis

SHERIDAN MINE CAMP, WASHINGTON
The road was exactly as stated — terrible

The first three quarters of a

Ruts wery'a foot deep.
mile wasn't bad,

but after making the left turn to go

the
up East Pork of Cougar Greek,

the road became a

A
Heavy trucks had been through here when

challenge.

the ground was wet and soft.

Narrow ridges between

ruts were now the roadway, and accurate navigation
was a must.

In two miles,

a gate blocked the road,

but here was the turnoff heading left up to the mine

camp,

A sort of halfway house was located at the

-'jV
junction.

It was a handsome cabin of large logs,

roofed with moss-grown thick-butt cedar shingles.
Half a mile north of the halfway house
cookhouse
junction was the Sheridan Gamp^o^k and bunkhouse.
Eleven logs high,

for cooking,

and steeply roofed,

it offered room

heatlng^and recreation, with sleeping

quarters above.

Behind the bunkhouse was a board and

batten shed with an alr-clrculatlng c^ola on top.

I

speculated that it was either a meatjhouse or assay

office,

or perhaps the cooking was done here instead

of in the big log building.

One of the nice features

of exploring an "unknown"

site is that the only

information available is

"on the spot" guess work.

-7-

�N. Weis

One thing is certain.

The twelve&gt;»by-“elghteen-foot

vented building had been bu^t around a four-foot-’diameter

stump,

sawed flat at table height and full of chop marks I

That meant it most likely had been a meat house or
cook house.

The asssy office theory was ruled out.

Just up the hill a bit the old mill clings

to the hillside,

the roadway.

extending down to and including half

In fact the road splits to go either

past or under the mill chutes.
shape.

The mill is in bad

Much of its superstructure is gone,

X

/

■ /

lron__work and machinery is missing.
shouldn’t call it a mill,

Perhaps I

for its Inside timbering

did not resemble most mills.

It could have been a

concentrator^or merely a fancy loader.
was a square two-story building.

equipment was inside,
was evident.

Near the "mill"

Some of the original

and the function of this structure

Forge tables, with cinders and charcoal

still in place,

made it a smithy.

littered one end of the building.
portion,

and its

Numerous ore samples

In a small^closed

there was an abundance of crushed ore.

An

oven pedestal and roof vent were enough to deduce that
an assayer carried out his work at this end of the

building.

-8-

�N. Weis

The road was narrow,

and it took a while to

find a place wide enough to turn about.

For a

I suspected that I had driven in on the ultimate one­
way road --

"in only."

accomplished,

Finally, a one-eighty

I headed for Sheridan Town with high

expectations.

-9-

�N. Weis

SHERIDAN (TOWN), WASHINGTON
From the "halfway house"
through an unlocked gate,

the road leads

and continues upstream

along the north bank of the East Pork of Cougar
Creek.

The roadway is narrow.

area on either side of the

mile and a half.

There is no flat

"straight" road for a

The first turn is a sharp switch-

back to the right.

At this point a faint roadway

leads straight ahead.

The barely perceptible track

was the main street of Sheridan.
Looming on the right,

and fairly hidden

by trees, was a two-and-a-half-story "hotel,"

Each

story was eight logs high, and the logs were fat —
well over a foot in diameter.

logs to the gable top.
still standing!

It was another eight

Twenty-four logs high and

Across the front of the lower floor

was a long timbered opening designed to hold two
double doors and several large windows.

The lower

foundation logs extended forward a dozen feet to
support a wide boardwalk, now entirely rotted away.

Close inspection Indlcatad that company offices may
have been planned for the main floor,

with living

quarters above.
Just up the main road a few yards was

another log building of nearly equal size.

-10-

It looked

�N. Weis

like another "hotel," but more probably was built to

house the laboring force.
Centered, and behind these two massive log
buildings was a third log structure.

It was a low^

single-story outfit, with collapsed roof.
low walls divided It Into stalls,

Numerous

spelling out Its

It was a stable, and It was a big one —

function.

larger In floor space than either of the taller log

buildings.

The faint trail that led Into the trees from

the switchback became more Indistinct with every step.
I had gone perhaps one hundred yards beyond the two-anda-*half—story log "hotel" when I came across the

collapsed remains of the real
It had been gigantic — and plush.

logs formed tall^ slngle-»story side walls.

Squared

Adz marks

on the logs Indicated they had been flattened without
the benefit of saws.

jointed.

The corners were beautifully lock'-'~^

Above the first floor had been a vaulted

peaked roof,

constructed of sawed rafters and shingled

with heavy shakes.

The entire upper floor — clear out

to the useless eaves -- was floored smooth with expensive

(for that era)

tongue and groove boards.

This was the fancy place the Atchison Jfrothers

at Old Todora had told me about.

-11-

It had been Intact

Just

�N, Weis

a few years before.

The upper floor was used for

dances, and had a walk-out veranda.

Below the veranda

was the usual boardwalk leading into.the lower floor,

which was the hotel proper.
The rest of the town was anticlimactic.
hind the hotel was a large dug-out cooler.

Be­

West and

north of the hotel were six cabins in various states
One of them had roof shakes nearly three
everything
feet long, and^was so well preserved that it could

of decay.

have been made liveable with a few hours*

labor.

Never had I been in a more deserted or more
forgotten town,

nor had-I ever seen ^uch magnificent

log buildings.

Just how they had survived was a
-.

mystery.

The big log building at the switchback was

a mystery by itself,

appearance.

Something was

"wrong” with its

It took a moment —— then it was obvious.

There were no windows at the sides or on the upper
floors.

No sane man would live in a flammable building

without an avenue of escape.

to have windows.

At first it seemed unexplainable.

Then things began to add up.
downstream,

months.

falling.

A building like this had

Old Todora, a few miles

had ^eld its post office for only eight

The reason was that the mines nearby were

Gould it be that Sheridan Town failed

-12-

just

�N.

Weis

as quickly, and that work on the big log building was
stopped short,

just before the windows were slated to

be cut out and framed?
Perhaps the reasoning Is In error.

I hope It Is,

In a way.

for standing In the middle of this Im­

pressive ghost town,

one begins to feel guilty about

prying Into long-held secrets.
Like a grand old lady,

her modicum of privacy.

-13-

Sheridan Town deserves

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                <text>Norman Weis Manuscripts</text>
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            <description>Date of creation of the resource.</description>
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              <elementText elementTextId="102345">
                <text>1971-1987</text>
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                <text>A collection of manuscripts by Casper College professor Norman Weis. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;This collection includes manuscripts of:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ghost Towns of the Northwest: Known and Unknown&lt;br /&gt;The Starduster&lt;br /&gt;Two-Story Outhouse&lt;br /&gt;Helldorados&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Each manuscript contains written in edits by Norman Weis</text>
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                <text>Norman Weis</text>
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                <text>CCA 10.2003.01_Weis_Manuscripts</text>
              </elementText>
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  </collection>
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    <name>Text</name>
    <description>A resource consisting primarily of words for reading. Examples include books, letters, dissertations, poems, newspapers, articles, archives of mailing lists. Note that facsimiles or images of texts are still of the genre Text.</description>
    <elementContainer>
      <element elementId="7">
        <name>Original Format</name>
        <description>The type of object, such as painting, sculpture, paper, photo, and additional data</description>
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            <text>Manuscript</text>
          </elementText>
        </elementTextContainer>
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      <name>Dublin Core</name>
      <description>The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/.</description>
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        <element elementId="50">
          <name>Title</name>
          <description>A name given to the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
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              <text>&lt;em&gt;Ghost Towns of the Northwest: Known and Unknown &lt;/em&gt;Washington&amp;nbsp;Draft</text>
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          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="47">
          <name>Rights</name>
          <description>Information about rights held in and over the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101251">
              <text>&lt;div class="element-text five columns omega"&gt;&#13;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href="http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC/1.0/"&gt;http://rightsstatements.org/vocab/InC/1.0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#13;
&lt;/div&gt;</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="56">
          <name>Date Created</name>
          <description>Date of creation of the resource.</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101252">
              <text>1971</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="51">
          <name>Type</name>
          <description>The nature or genre of the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101253">
              <text>Text</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="39">
          <name>Creator</name>
          <description>An entity primarily responsible for making the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101254">
              <text>Norman Weis</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="44">
          <name>Language</name>
          <description>A language of the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101255">
              <text>ENG</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="70">
          <name>Is Part Of</name>
          <description>A related resource in which the described resource is physically or logically included.</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101256">
              <text>Norm Weiss Manuscripts and Photographs, CCA 10.2003.01 WyCaC US. Casper College Archives and Special Collections.</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="43">
          <name>Identifier</name>
          <description>An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101257">
              <text>CCA 10.2003.01_Weis_GhostTowns_DraftManuscript_Wash</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
        <element elementId="42">
          <name>Format</name>
          <description>The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="101258">
              <text>Searchable PDF</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
      </elementContainer>
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</item>
