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                  <text>�N. Weis

OREGON AREA
T4x1s-Unlt GonXaiRg-'
A^&amp;p3M&gt;xifflateiy^--3400--ifard^i

At slwrt gl^ce, the old dredge resembled a
monster.

A monster in Its last frantic moment of life,

its square-browed head reared high, vacant eyes staring
blindly, with steel jaws poised for a last vengeful

IQ Q

thrust.

Frozen in position by disuse, and trapped in
a small pond of its own making, the gigantic dredge is
as impressive as the destruction still evident in its

-1-

�N. Weis

gravel--strewn wake.

This dredge and two others like it
■&gt;

)

once ravaged the broad valley of the Powder River of

pastern Oregon.

Green with trees and lush with grass,

the terrain was lifted, sifted, washed^and subtracted

of Its wealth, then haphazardly replaced.

The precious

soil that once topped the baser rock now spread^ Its

fertility thinly downstream.

Gold was the master, and

ten tons of it lay in the valley, demanding harvest.
The giant dredges reaped that harvest, slowly tracing

their broad erosionary swaths until the entire valley
was consumed.
Twelve million dollars’^worth of gold poured
temporary life into the town of Sumpter.

That life has

since faded, and little is left of the original Sumpter,

One of the three dredges was destroyed by fire, another
was dismantled and shipped to richer gravel.

The third

dredge is largely intact, and is Sumpter's largest and

most impressive surviving structure.

It rests quietly

in the small pond at the east edge of town.

Slightly

down at the bow and in gentle contact with the bottom,
its endless bucket chain is raised high.

Three levels

of enclosed machinery topped with a control house, which

in turn is capped by a cable housing, give the dredge a
height fully sixty feet above wateiTilne.

-2-

�N. Weis

As I was preparing to photograph the old relic,

a man and two boys approached.

Equipped with hammers,

gold pans,and fishing tackle, they proceeded to unlock

the sliding door on the lower deck.

As part owners of

the dredge, they were intent on enjoying the day aboard
their private, although immobile craft.

I quickly

r
accepted their invitation to tour\the
monster's innards.

An ancient electric motor once fed power to

the chain of buckets by means of a drive belt eighty
feet long, two feet wide, and nearly a half an inch thick.

Great banks of shakers and sorters processed the gravel
to a gold-bearing black sand concentrate.

Next, sca­

venger Jigs separated the gold from the useless sand.

One of the cogwheels that relayed power to the shakers
was thirteen feet in diameter.

Prom the broad-^windowed

bridge, the operator controlled all functions with twelve

large levers and a number of rheostats,

A double-barrelled

heater constructed from two fifty-gallon drums offered
minimal comfort on cold days.

A catwalk le^ directly

from the control deck to the extreme end of the dredge

boom.

A serpentine stairway connected the bridge with

the lower machine decks.

The handballs were worn

pleasantly smooth from countless use.

-3-

�N. Weis

A small projection at water level, "amidships
on the port side," made an ideal fishing platform for
one of the boys.

Although small, the trout were

The boy’s brother and father were busy

plentiful.

pounding out rust and trace deposits left in the final
shakers and scavenger jigs.

It took an hour or so for

them to glean a cup of rusty concentrate, but when panned,

the gold realized was enough to pay wages, and to set
them once again to pounding away at the old rusted
machinery.

Gold was located here in 1862 by a group of
Confederate soldiers on their way to California,

They

called the place Sumter, after the ^ort of the same name

Later the spelling was changed to the present Sumpter
News of their discovery of placer gold spread rapidly.
and soon hundijsds of men were washing gravel
In the
SGVGnuXOS
late(70’s) the Chinese moved in to rework the same de-

posits.

Later, the prime deposits were found on the

hillsides, and hard-.rock mining ensued.

In I896 the

railroad reached town, and the population grew to more

than ^00^.

Sumpter town reached its maximum in 19OO

when the deep mines and the dredges were both operating
full shifts.

There were two brick banks, two hotels, an
opera house, a lumber mill, and more than two dozen

0
’h

�N. Weis

saloons in Sumpter,

A two-story building on the hill

served as a hospital, and was later converted to an Odd' '*

/•ellows Hall,
The fire of 1916 destroyed most of Sumpter.

When the hoses burned through, dynamite was used to blow
up buildings to create firebreaks.

The desperate attempt

to save the town ^:^argely failed, and only a few structures
were saved.

The O^d /ellows Hall, the school, a store,

a few bams, and a number of residences were among the
survivors.

Many citizens moved out.

Those ths-t stayed

scavenged many of the deserted buildings to enhance their
own homes, or to supply firewood for the winter.

One of the surviving barns has been preserved
by the care demanded by constant use, and the protection

of a metal roof.

Painted on the roof, in startling

contrast, is an orange-lettered sign marking the location
and distance to the nearest airport.

It seems as incon­

gruous as an old man wearing a propeller beanie.

Along*^

side is parked an old^solid-rubber-tired Union Oil trailer
tank.

An old brick vault marks the location of one

of the town’s banks.

Nearby is a small wooden shed with

a bashed—in garage door at its front.

fire department.

This is Sumpter’s

Inside is a brightly painted four*-

wheeled trailer with a tongue adapted to either pulling

-5-

�by hand or attaching by pin and clevis to any handy

vehicle equipped with trailer hitch. The deluxe hose
/A
cart is complete with several reels of stout hose, a

number of axes and a tool chest containing extra nozzles.
The bed of the narrow-gauge railroad that once
connected Sumpter and nearby Baker is now the grade of

the excellent blacktop road that serves the town and
forest recreation areas beyond.

Sumpter is six miles

south of Baker on Highway 7, then twenty miles west on
There are no topographic maps of the area

Highway 220.

near Sumpter, or Granite and Whitney to the west and

south, but forest ^ervlce maps indicate most of the
Important features,

Today there are 11? people living in towaffbut
only 80 spend the winter.

operation,

One place of business is in

A cafe and general meeting place, it serves

good coffee and great conversation.

The ranking old^^

timer, whose father had lived in Sumpter since 1880,
took great delight in telling me about the town.

He had

a storehouse of the finest quality lies I had heard in
years.

He fired them out so fast that laughter on the

last interefered with the telling of the next.

"When the town was goin* strong, there was
fourteen saloons, five hundred rahR4?ah girls, and one
tired sinner,*

�N, Weis

After several cups of coffe^ we were still

undecided as to how we might best preserve the facts as
to "what old Sumpter was really like,"

-7-

�N. Weis

KG^ITB, OREGON
Once inhabited by five thousand lively souls,

the town of Giranlte now is best known as the smallest

incorporated town in the world.

With a population of

one, its smallness cannot be exceeded, only equaled,

Ote Ford became the sole resident of Granite
when the mayor hung himself, and "Cliff the Prospector"

went looking for gold in Ten Gent Creek,

Being his own

mayor, council, treasurer and constituency, Ote was
quick to state that Granite had a Republican adminis­
64^issue of the ^Capitol

In the August 26,

tration.

Journal,^ Ote is quoted — "There’s no such thing as
isolation.

Too many people want to share it with you,"

There are a number of reasons why people are

drifting back to Granite,

Easily accessible — Just

fifteen miles west of Sumpter ~ and burled deep in the
beautiful Blue Mountains, the setting alone is attraction
enough.

Taxes are nonexistent, water fees are one dollar

a month, and the town treasury is in the black.

At last

report, the balance was more than one hundred dollars.

Although the summer population has soared to
nearly one dozen, the permanent year-round count of

residents remains at the minimum — one I

-8-

�N. Weis

A few years ago the "pride of Granite" — the
three-story deluxe hotel — burned to the ground.

Still

standing are a number of old buildings dating from the
1800’s when Granite was in its prime.

The small school^

house -- later used as^city hall -- has developed a

decided slant.

Built on a strongly sloped hill, it leans

to the high side in over^ompensation.
Main street, in spite of fire and depredation,

leaves the impression of being lined with stores.

Prominent on a corner of the main intersection is the
old Mercantile, which later became an entertainment
hall and did final service as a gas station and general

store.

Across the street, the drugstore — now converted

to a vacation home — displays a broad-palmed set of
moose antlers on its porch roof.

Next to it is the

freight office with its stylish cater-cornered doorway,

A block east are the remains of the fancy two—story dance
hall. Only the front portion of the second floor is left.
The windows have long been paneSis, but the fancy sill

work and gussied shingles offer a suggestion of yesterdays
grandeur,
r
One general store is now in business.

Strictly

a seasonal operation, it offers a warm welcome, cool

refreshment^and enchanting history.

-9-

�N. Weis

.WHITNEY, OREGON^Z
~
Surrounded, by booming gold camps, but unblessed

by even token amounts of the precious metal, the town of
Whitney could offer only a supporting role.

The railroad

that passed through town was kept busy hauling lumber to
the camps and bringing gold out.

Freighting and lumber­

ing promised the town only temporary life.

Its longevity

depended upon two expendables, gold and timer,
A
Whitney was the prime station of the famous
eighty-jnile-long narrow-gauge Sumpter Valley Railroad,
Centrally located between the two end terminals — Prairie
City and Baker — it was the ideal spot for roundhouse

and crews’ quarters.

In spite of the fourteen rail crews

quartered in Whitney, and the lumber mill that employed
up to seventy-five men, the population of the town never
climbed much beyond one hundred.

When the sawmill burned

in 1918, the town became nearly deserted,

A brief five-

year revival occurred in 1939 when the Oregon Lumber
Company rebuilt the mill in order to harvest a newly

purchased block of timer,

Whitney may be reached by ten miles of passable
dirt road extending south of Sumpter, or by sixteen miles

of the same kind of road extending northeast from Highway

7 near Bates,

Whitney occupies only a small part of a
-10-

�N. Weis

large grassy flat, and the dirt road does not widen
appreciably as it passes through town,

"Town" is now

a mere handful of buildings, perhaps twelve or fourteen,

mostly on the north side of the street.

The old round^^

house and depot are disappointingly absent.

Even the

rails have been torn up for scrap.
But the old sawmill is there — its proud

image faithfully reproduced in the quiet waters of the
log pond. The mill rests in the center of its own broad
flat, lush with flowers in full bloom, KneJljiigh purple

blossoms stand uniformly a half foot higher than yellow
blossoms,

I bent down to inspect an old saw blade, and

the broad field turned from purple to golden yellow,
then returned as I regained my original perspective.

The mill is gutted of machinery.

There is no

floor, and water seeping in from the log pond has turned
the dirt to mud a foot deep.

You can navigate through

the building only by hopping from old board to rock to

concrete pillar.

Thousands of swallows have made the

old structure their home.

They resent any intrusion and

take issue with each sudden movement.

Assuredly, they

are harmless, but in such great numbers they are
distinctly unsettling, A simple wave of the arm, and a
multitude of birds take*^wlng, A symphony of motion

-11-

�N, Weis

flows, at first away, and then toward the offender.

The

noise rises to a peak, each bird encouraging the other,
then settles down to a flutter of wings as a transitory

calm again prevails.
Surely great events have transpired in Whitney,

but for now its primary claim to greatness is its
magnificent birdhouse standing on its own reflection,
centered in a field of purple and gold.

�N. Weis

^GALENA, OREGON
The roots of trees, downed by high winds, had
levered up fantastic chunks of gold.
they glowed dully, awaiting discovery.

Cleansed by rain,

In 1862, a

group of miners made the find of their lives.

They kept

their secret for more than a year while they skimmed the

richest deposits.

By 1864 the word leaked out,

big as your fist J"

This time the wild rumors were trueI

"Nuggets

Gold was sprinkled along the Middle Pork of Day River
and up Elk Creek,

It ran from fine to five-pound chunks.

Claims were filed and the rich deposits along the Elk and
the Middle Day were soon taken.
Some miners objected to claims laid out length­

wise along the stream, and forced a maximum width rule
on the offenders.

Each man could have a slice of stream

as wide as he could reach with his pick, without moving

his feet.

Tall miners with long-handled picks had a

distinct advantage.

Later, at a meeting of five hundred

miners, a standard width of fifty feet was set.
Soon two communities sprang up.

One near the

junction of the two streams, another about two miles north

up narrow Elk Creek Canyon,

The lower camp was originally

named Susanville, and had its own post office.

Shortly

after 1900, some miners from the upper Elk Creek camp
slipped into town and stole the post office — boxes.
-13-

�N. Weis

ink pad, oanceling stamp^and all.

The Elk Creek camp

then became Susanville, and "Old Susanville" petitioned
for and received a new post office with the name of Galena,

By that time much of the gold was gone, and the most likely
future for the newly christened Galena seemed to be in

the mining of galena, a shiny sulphide of lead.
The town of Galena never was very large, since

most miners preferred to camp on their claims.

Its

stores came near outnumbering its residences,

Lee On

Ralph Rider operated the livery

ran a Chinese store,
I

and hotel.

..

There was a dance hall and meat market, along

with a number of saloons.

Galena was a going town, but

gold is soon gone and the miners leave with it,

A new lease was given to the life of Galena

when dredges designed originally to be used on the

Panama Canal were refitted and shipped in during the
A
Reassembled, they processed much of the gravel along the
Middle Pork of the John Day River, extracting gold that
had eluded the miners of an earlier day.

was lucrative but short-lived.

The new effort

The town became so quiet

that in 19^3 the post office was closed by request of
the postmaster.
The road to Galena is long, yet pleasantly

scenic.

Prom the twin cities of John Day and Canyon City,
-14-

�N. Weis

U. S. Highway 26 extends about twenty-two miles northeast
to Bates Junction.

A left turn at Bates puts you through

town, across the "Middle Day" River, and past the sawmill.

Twenty miles on down stream are the quiet remains of
Galena.

The gusanville, Oregon. 15 minute topographic

map shows the locations of both Galena and Susanville,

as well as many of the mines in the area.
At Galena, several old residences and two stores
line the south side of the road.

Imbedded in tall weeds.

The stores are deeply

One place of business was con­

verted later to a combination garage and gas station.

Its old pump, complete with long-handled lever, stands

nearly vertical.

The glass reservoir is gone, but the

strip marking the level for each gallon is intact.

Inside,

the oli one-stall garage has been converted to a meat cooler
with provisions for hanging freshly killed game,

A

single flower grows tall through a one-inch hole bored

in the floor.
A metal-roofed clapboard cabin once sported an
outside stala?way to the attic.

Recently the staircase

has been dislodged by horses that graze on tall grass
once worn short by frantic activity.
One family lives in Galena now, and even they

find it difficult to believe that at one time five thousand
-15-

�N. Weis

miners visited town to cast their votes in a vain effort
to beat out Canyon City in the contest for county seat.

-16-

�N. Weis

\^USANVILLB, OREGON
Two miles northeast of Galena, up the narrow

canyon of Elk Creek, are the sparse remains of Susan­
ville, once called "Upper Camp."

Established in 1864

as a gold camp, it received its present name in I90I
when miners lifted the post office from the rival camp
downstream.

Placer deposits were rich along the two miles
of canyon, and claims were narrow and lucrative.

ran large,

Nuggets

Jane Erickson reported in the Sunday Oregonian

Magazine that a nugget large as a flat iron and worth

fourteen hundred dollars was found there in 1913.

It

is now on display at the bank in Baker, Oregon.
Placering paid off along the entire length of
Elk Creek Canyon.

One of the larger outfits was owned

by a Mr, Haskell.

His hydraulic operation netted #165,000

in one day, and reportedly resulted in a total yield of
nearly two million in gold, in spite of the ever-present

loss due to high-grading.

High-grading was the quaa'-

respectable practice of quietly pocketing the richest
ore samples.

Mine owners commonly paid low wages and

tacitly permitted high-grading.

There was outright thievery^ too, but most
thieves found it difficult to leave town with the goods.
-17-

�N. Weis

Early one morning, Haskell’s Chinese night watchman was
observed walking down the road, suitcase In hand.

The

suitcase sagged heavily from Its handle, and the Chinaman
stopped frequently to rest.

During one pause, Haskell's

men rushed up and demanded the suitcase be opened.

Out

rolled a number of golden nuggets, the largest worth
twelve hundred dollars I
Quartz prospecting began In Elk Canyon about

1869.

Early samples were processed In the Cabel

panamalgamatlon unit.

Later a ten-stamp mill was built,

primarily to process the ores from the nearby Badger

Mine,

A number of shafts found and exploited the mother

lode.

There wshb the Bull of the Woods, fhe Gem, The

Present Need, and the Poor Man that made several men rich.

Susanville had but one street.
too narrow to provide a second.

The canyon was

More than a thousand

miners were known to crowd Into town on Saturday night I

White's Store was busy.

So busy that to make change

quickly, all prices were rounded to the nearest quarter.
Anything that sold for less than fifteen cents was free.
The remains of Susanville are strung out for

nearly a mile, and are now mostly flat but empty home

sites, and scattered piles of rotting timber.

At the

west end of town there is an old log cabin, its walls

-18-

�N. Weis

leaning under a collapsed roof.

Central in town is the

old mill, erect and plumb, but nearly devoid of shingles.

Its machinery is gone and the trees have grown close
alongside.

The tar-papered cabin just opposite the

mill has eight rooms and three stoves.

One of the last

residents strung a long antenna to improve his radio

reception.

He used whatever wire was handy, and what

was handy was barbed wire.
At the upper end of town stands a small^ but

Intact stamp mill.

Of fairly recent vintage, it has a

driveway leading to the upper end where ore can be dumped
in.

In operation, a reciprocating engine provided power,

and a lever gave control over the flow of ore to the

stamps,

A stamp is merely an iron rod about two Inches

in diameter and ten feet long.

The lower section is

broadened to a width of six inches.

Each stamp weighs

several hundred pounds and has, near its upper end, a

projection that allows it to be lifted.

When released,

the stamp falls on the ore, crushing it fine, freeing
the particles of gold.

The stamp butt was^ef stout

metal and high-sided to permit stamping in a bath of
mercury.

The mercury amalgamated with the gold, holding

it in the bath while the worthless rock spilled over

the sides.
-19-

�An occasional camper or sightseer may travel up

the canyon,

A few stubborn prospectors still cast about

for some lost vestige of gold,

Down below, a mechanized

gold washing operation is reworking old gravel.

narrow canyon is quiet,

But the

Skinners driving twelve-mule

jerkliners no longer fight the rear teams over the trace

to make a tight switchback.

Welcome would be the sound

of cuss words well chosen from a vocabulary of large
experience and delivered with unwavering conviction.

�N. Weis

■^^he closest tow was twenty miles away and not
much when you got there.

The farmers and ranchers were

tired of losing so much time commuting for supplies,

A

meeting was called, ideas were set forth, and solutions
were reached

First they would build a school, then a store
and finally a church.

The homes and entertainment halls
-1-

�N. Weis

would follow naturally.

The plan was sound and the town

had a guaranteed future.

But unknown to the planners,

the guarantee would last only until the advent of the
automobile.

Mlles would then be measured in minutes

Instead of days, and the town’s reason for existence
would be lost.

Richmond, born in I890, grew in a

few decades to respectability, then faded slowly again

to nothing.

Highway 20?, an all-weather road which is

partially blacktopped, passes within a mile of Richmond.
The Richmond. Oregon, 15 minute topographic map is a help
in locating the town, but shows little that is not readily
detected when on the site.

The schoolhouse — first structure built, and
probably one of the last in use — is equipped with the
standard bell tower plus a covered porch on two sides.
The large single classroom is still dominated by a large

black heater bearing the name "The Smith System."

A

major engineering breakthrough for its time, it had a
the
large flue that drew cold air from^floor level and
delivered it to the chimney.
The open door of the Methodist Church invites

the visitor.

A fetching alcove empties into the

sanctuary where two pews still face the empty platform.
The bell tower was vented, and probably held a bell

capable of sending its call throughout the town.

-2-

�The boarding house - store - resldenCt- saloon
post office buildingiras a forerunner to the modem en­

closed shopping center.

The "mall" was a covered porch

that serviced the full length of the structure.
Several large homes stand on the hill to the

northwest of town.

One home is occasionally occupied

and has posed on its door a passionate plea by its owner
stating in part*

"This is not an abandoned home and is

not locked — so don’t break the windows or kick in the

V^.everything worth stealing has already

door," I t
been stolen,"

Then an addendum is addedj

"Please^folks, if

you gotta go — be brave — and use the convenient

sagebrush — our water is turned off and the stool won't

flush---- "
Thoughtfully, owner Rod Donnelly adds a word

of caution concerning rattlesnakes and exposed portions

of the anatomy.

Beyond Donnelly's house, and up the hill,
stands a more pretentious structure.

Vacant and open,

to the elements, it exudes an aura of mystery.

isn't haunted, it ought to be.

If it

Every room on the second

floor is covered with old clothing.

Several feet deep

in most places, it offers delightful shelter to mice

�N. Weis

and other rodents.

Their rustlings from under foot keep

one on the alert.

Occasionally an animal will scurry

out on the roof and create a new sound not quickly

Identified,

Occasional screeching sounds are probably

loose sheets of metal roofing scraping raw edges.
stairs creak three steps ahead of your feet.

The

The house

groans — but It Is old, and the wind has picked up.
Weather Is making, and biscuit clouds are overhead.

Precursors of tornadoes, their Ominous presence adds

the final touch of ghostllness to the house on the hill.

-4-

�N. Weis

LONEROCK, OREGON

Never was a town more appropriately named!
The huge lone rock Is the only dominant feature of an

otherwise flat valley.

Not only the town, but the stream

and the valley derived their names from the Impressive
landmark,

A helpful gentleman In Spray, Oregon, had. de­
scribed the rock as "big as a house," and also fl-rmly

declared the town had recently burned to the ground.

was wrong on both counts.

He

The town was quite Intact,

and the rock was not just "big as a house," It was

"bigger than a church!"
The Baptists were the first to build a church

In Lonerock,

Soon It proved too small for the community

and In I898 a new church was planned.

Times had changed.

The majority of citizens were Methodist, and a Methodist
Church could be built In only one place.

Built stoutly

and planted firmly by the rock, one must assume that
Peter was quoted often, and that "Rock of Ages" echoed

frequently within Its walls,
Lonerock may be approached from Condon, Oregon,

by proceeding east on Highway 206 for five miles, then

branching to the right on an undesignated blacktop road,

After about fifteen miles, the road becomes gravel, and
-5-

N

�MH* promptly slants down the steep valley wall to Lonerock,

There are no topographic maps available for this portion
of Oregon,

Luckily, many of the towns in this unit are

shown on ordinary state highway maps.

Sixteen people live in town, and the ranking
resident is declared "mayor" by acclamation.

Edith Perry,

holds the office at present, and is highly re­
spected by the citizenry.

The mayor pointed out some

of the sites in town, occasionally throwing in a little

Chamber of Commerce ^itch,

"Yes, that old flat thing

there is the dance floor — had a building over it but
we had to tear it down cause it was aleanin*,,The building
next to it was a pastime,"

I asked about the name of

"No name — just a pastime — sold soft drinks

the store,

and candy and nuts.

Had a confectionery over there,"

Mayor Edith pointed to a small building nearly overgrown
with trees,

"The school is being torn down.

in Portland own it now.

Some people

Was built in 1903 and we even had

a highschool on the second floor — had fifteen students,"

I asked about local taxes and learned that
five dollars a month was adequate to run the town,
"And we make Improvements^too.

water system.

We have a new

Ran a pipe from the spring up on the hill

and the water comes down just a flyin*.

No, we don’t

have a fire chief, but we are all members of the Fire
Department,

Saloons? — sure we had some.

’em with a spoon they was so thickI

Could stir

We graveled the

-6-

I anerac

�N. Weis

streets last year and still have money left — only town

in the ^tate that’s out of debt."
I left town via the gravel road to the north.

The local two-wire telephone line parallels the road for

a number of miles.

Never had I seen a telephone system

with such personally. /Mayor Edith had termed it a
"private line that works sometimes."

Most poles were

nothing but small saplings.

Some were bent nearly double

by the weight of the wires.

At times the Insulators

were nailed to fence posts, or the wires merely tied
with twine to a handy tree.

Here and there the lines

crossed and touched one another.

What appeared to be

an old rake handle was tied to a metal fence post, thereby
gaining the rigidity needed to support the wires.

At

intervals, rocks as big as cabbages were hung on the
line to prevent wind whipping.
The eas3&lt;^ing attitude that prevailed in
Lonerock seemed to stretch out along the pleasantly

haphazard strands.

Occasional creosoted poles appeared,

then became frequent.

Disgustingly upright and too

perfectly aligned, they pinched to nothing the last
quiet memory of Lonerock.

�N. Weis

ASHWOOD, OREGON

The little weathered building with its comer-''
mounted double doors and fancy half-circle entrance
porch gives little indication of its rowdy history.

Called "McCallum’s Saloon," it was established in 1897,
two years before the town was platted.

Thirty years

later it suffered the Insult of being placed penmangnf.iy

on the wagon when the Baptists converted it to a church.

Many of Ashwood’s buildings have been put to
new uses.

Others have drifted into decay or met

destruction by fire.

The countrjy store-gas station

was once the hotel, with attached saloon.

A house

deeply buried among lofty trees was the town’s favorite

eating house.

The Ash Butte Grange Hall is unchanged

and unused.

Cows graze on the lawns and wander about

the streets.

An old deserted store has wire mesh fenc­

ing nailed to its porch posts to prevent damage by cattle.
The road to Ashwood leads east from U. S. Highway
97 about two miles south of Willowdale.

After fifteen miles

of unmarked hairpin turns, the road enters the j^alley of

Trout Creek, makes a left turn at the Baptist Church, and

promptly becomes the main street of Ashwood.

I was in town less than ten minutes when I was

informed^"Mrs. Allison want^ to see you."

-8-

The invitation

�N. Weis

was Issued rather firmly by a soft-spoken but stoutly
constructed man In miner’s clothes.

With little delay,

we adjourned to the two—story deeply shaded home of

Mrs. Allison.

The welcome was warm, and yet strange^4i^-\

"How are you?

I saw you enter town two days

ago."

I expressed my puzzlement and she explained,

"I see things — visions If you wish.

I saw a tall man

with dark—rimmed glasses entering town."
The miner offered corroboration.

Shortly, two

other miners — the Mosley frothers — Joined us and
formed a larger chorus of agreement.

My comment that I

put little faith In fortune-telling, was accepted calmly

and I was treated to a recounting of past forecasts

proven true, each accompanied by much head bobbing.
The three miners and the clairvoyant had been

hired to look Into an old mine In the area, and search

out Its hidden deposits.
It was to be a cinch.

With the added power of vision.

I asked why they hadn’t already

located the vein, and was told that success would come

soon.

Word had come down from the other world to be

patient.

They were very Interesting and helpful people,
and their coffee was great.

One of the ^^^ley frothers

suggested that I visit Horse Heaven, and^gave me a
-9-

�N. Weis

description of the extensive remains there.

This was

great news, because it appeared to be a little-known

site, and so far my efforts in Oregon had turned up
only well“’documented ghost towns.

rOn the heels of the suggestion that I visit

Horse Heaven came the forecast "that’s where you are
going early tomorrow morning."

I asked the seer if she

would trace my future route — It would save me a lot of

map study.

It seemed "the old people" hadn’t informed

her of my plans more than one day in advance.

My im­

pulse was to (immediately Mrive'|to Horse Heaven and
prove her forecast wrong, but the light was right for
pictures in Ashwood, and there was a local old-Xlmer I

Wanted to visit.
Eighty-five-year-old Aaron Hale lives in a
long trailer pulled close 1'^ to one of Ashwood’s old

stores.

Besides Aaron and his wife, the trailer holds

three cats and a Chihuahua.
the lot.

The dog is the smallest of

He thinks he is a cat and gets along fine.

All

six evidenced a warm welcome, and soon Aaron was telling
about old Ashwood.

He remembered best the humorous events like
the time the men at King Mine quit.

"There were seventy

men working shifts, living in a big boardIng'^ouse up there.
-10-

L

�N. Weis

Had a gal hired to run it and cook — she did for quite

Tired of being unappreciated.

a while — then quit.

They hired two men to take over.
oyster stew and crackers.

For supper they served

The next mornln’ they dished

up hot cakes and syrup, and you could roll up the cakes

like a cigarette, then throw ’ em — they’d open up and
fly like a pigeon.

The boys threw 'em all, then threw

out the table — and then the chairs — and all walked
to Ashwood to the cafe,"

Aaron pointed to a delapidated

old building a few lots away,

"The superintendent

returned and found the mine shut down and the men in

town.

They would go back to work if he got a new cook —

he did — two women.

Really turned out the ore for a

while I"
Aaron had a friend named Tom Brown, who had

his own claim, but had to work to earn dynamite money.
"His claim lapsed as he was cornin’ close, and old

Hubbard filed on it — Tom took him to court and got it

back — turned out a good mine^too.
‘’Ashwood had its heydey," says Aaron.

"There

were three hundred people here in the nineties — and

now there’s just four."

He didn’t count the folks

doing temporary exploratory work.

"The Hamilton Hotel

had ten rooms — and the town had its own paper, ^he
Ashwood Prospector." He dug out an old copy dated”^^^

-11-

�N. Weis

May 4, 1901.

Half of the front page was an ad asking people

to come live in Ashwood.

A Justice of the Peace announced

in a box ad, "Careful attention given collections."

Much

of the paper was filled with ads from the nearby and larger
town of Antelope. [Tn fact, the Ashwood Prospector was
’
printed in Antelop^

,
IV
O
\
.&amp;

From the beginning. Ashwood had been over^

shadowed by Antelope.

When mining activity began to slow

down, shortly after I9OO, it was logical for those out of

Soon stores were

work to seek employment in Antelope.
closing down for lack of business.

A small flurry of mining

raised hopes momentarily in 1925.

During the thirties and

forties, the town revived somewhat in response to mercury

mining at Horse Heaven, twenty miles or so to the east.

Things are quiet these days in Ashwood,

are more cows in town than people.

There

It is a relaxing place

to visit, and a restful place to camp.

I overnighted by the old grange building in

the center of town, and was awakened early by cattle rubbing
vigorously against the tailgate of my truck.

Soon I had

breakfasted, and in accordance with the seer’s forecast, was

on my way to Horse Heaven.

-12-

�N. Weis

HORSE HEAVEN, OREGON

Two old prospectors, Champion and Kenton,

first located the fine particles of red cinnabar on
the divide between Cherry Greek and Muddy Greek,

The

find developed into a major producer of mercury.
That is the way one historical account dis­

posed of the story behind Horse Heaven,

But the real

story is fantastic, and perhaps never before told in

its entirety.

It was related to me by a tall, somewhat
Z- ..

-■

graying gentleman now prospecting at Horse Heaven,

His

name is Ray R, Whiting, Jr,, and he, more than any other

man, knows -the total story — because he lived it,
'?•.
"Old Champ5ejFjira®:
great- jst©specter
could
find it as if he could^^mell it.

Always scratching

though — like he had seven-year itchy and no bath.
He used to take some of us kids along with him.

One

summer my buddy, Harry Hoy, and myself were out here

camping and prospecting with our dads.

Old Champion

was along, and he was showing Harry and me the float
of cinnabar that he had found earlier,"
We walked a few steps over to the scant shade

of a juniper tree,

Ray bent down and picked up a handful

of whitish granules that covered the area.

fhrfe.

�N. Weis

"This is the stuff.

In fact it was right here

that Champion panned some out to show us."

Rather than Just talk about it, Ray got a
pan and a plastic jug filled with water and proceeded

to pan the sample.

Quicklyy- the coarse chunks went over

the rim of the pan.

More water, and the finer granules

were slopped over the edge.

In moments| Ray had the

original handful down to a small residue of deep red

powder and black sand.

"There — you

see the red — that’s cinnabar —

mercury sulfide — and

it's mostly mercury.

Champion had found the

stuff earlier the same year —

Well^old

that was 1933 — but had given up on it because it was

just float — stuff that washed in.

Being on top of a

divide, he figured it couldn’t be much and told us it
was worthless.

Like any other kids, we figured a big

lode was nearby, so we got to looking around.

Pound

some outcrops that looked good, so we started digging."

Ray pointed out the spot a few yards up the

slope,

"Spent most of the summer.

and made a project out of it.

sixty days.

Brought supplies in

Harry and I tunneled for

That's sticking pretty good for a couple

of higPischool kids, but we were beginning to lose our
confidence.

Eating lunch one day, we were sitting by

-14-

|

&gt;

�N, Weis

the tunnel, and I got to kicking at a rock — just

messing around.

That rock just flipped over.

It was

wet on the bottom and bright red I”

We looked at some samples that Ray had nearby pink tracings went everywhere throughout the pale

whitish rock.
"Here — look see how it comes to life when you

wet it."

Ray poured some water on the rock, and each

pink line became flaming red.

"We started a new tunnel,

and in a couple of days we were really in it — solid

cinnabar, and slimy with beaded mercury.

Our dads had

us sit on the claim and we formed a company.

Us kids

got a third interest for maklng^t^e find. Later when
‘... '
K
we sold out, Harry and I got eleven percent, and we

were both rich."
In a few years the new Crystal Syndicate had

the mine in production.
Heaven Mines, Inc.

Later it was named the Horse

In 1936 the Sun Oil Company bought

the mine and operated it until 194-4.

One hundred

thousand tons of ore were removed from deep within the
hill, leaving tunnels fourteen hundred feet long on ten

different levels, the deepest over three hundred feet
down.

Four huge stopes, or caverns, were left where

massive pockets of ore were removed.

-15-

�N. Weis
A twenty-ton mill and reduction furnace turned

out 15,000 flasks of mercury, each weighing seventy-six

pounds, and valued at a total of seven million dollars
at the old prices.

The mill burned In 1946, and excent

x

for a spurt ln^ft^^ty-f©ury the [mining was finished.
At Its peak the town had a population somewhat
over a hundred.

It had a post office, dozens of cabins,

a few bunkjhouses, one cookhouse, a few office buildings,
a schoolhouse with fifteen students, and uncounted numbers
of rattlesnakes.

The rattlesnakes are still there.

Ray

killed three the day before I arrived.
No topographic maps are available for towns In

the area, but Horse Heaven Is easily reached by driving

the fifteen miles of good gravel road extending east of

Ashwood.
■&amp;
I asked Ray what would a rich hlghjschool kid do
with his money and his life back In 1933.

’’Well — I built a fancy restaurant In California

It was a dandy — and lots of famous people used to come

there.

Made money^too.

But somehow I let It all slip

through my fingers.

"Rags to riches to rags again," I volunteered.

"No, more like tatters now.
here to locate some new deposits.

I'm on a project

The government Is

helping out, since the need for mercury Is critical."

There was more to the story, and Ray led the
way to a spot where we could look at a skyllned outcrop.

"See that rock up there'?
man’s head, doesn't It?

Looks Just like a

See the open mouth?

That looks

�N. Weis

just like a dear old friend of mine,

I was with him

when he died, and he looked just like that rock.

He

had the same nose and chin."

I agreed that the rock certainly looked like
an old man’s final profile,
"He told me before he died that he and a pal
of his — way back in ’35 — had been kicking around

just west of the old cook*^house.
are standing now.

That’s about where we

They uncovered an outcrop of cinnabar

that looked redder than the one I had found.

They agreed

to keep it a secret, maybe try and file on it later.
They never did, and he wanted me to know about it.
That’s why I am out here now.

I intend to find, that

outcrop,"
It has been over a year since I visited with

Ray Whiting, Jr.

By now he has either found the new

lode or ended his search and turned Horse Heaven over

to the rattlesnakes.

-17-

�ANTELOPE, OREGON
Supplies were needed at Canyon City.
been discovered.

Gold had

The nearest supply point was The

Dalles, and a route between the two points was quickly
established.

In 1862 the Wheelers built a way station

at a point sixty miles out of The Dalles.

it VAntelope.X

They named

Soon Nathan Wallace built a store,

then a smithy and stockade were added.

Competitors

built on a better site two miles north, and all of
Antelope soon moved to "New Antelope."
Immediately the Union House Hotel was con­

structed,

Soon a large livery and dance hall named

"Tamany" was built.

There was no stockade at the new

town, even though Indian threats continued,

P, W.

Sllvertooth, openrator of a saloon bearing his name,

is said to have "saved the day" when the regular stage
driver refused the run because of Indian danger.

The

stage operators were so happy to have Sllvertooth

volunteer^ that they offered him generous payment.
"Just name your price."
"Well," answered Sllvertooth, "just give me

some Saw Log and some Battle Axe,"
Armed with these two most popular brands of
plug tobacco, the intrepid Sllvertooth whipped the teams
up and dusted the stage out of town.

-18-

His plan was simple.

�N. Weis

Each time Indians were sighted, he stopped the stage,

waved them in, and handed out presents.

In spite of Indian problems, the town grew
rapidly, and in 188?, according to H. C. Roper, "It

was visible to the naked eye."

By I896 there were one

hundred seventy folk, three saloons, a bowling alley,

and several churches.

Two years later the town burned.

Many residences and all but one building on ^nain street

But Antelope was an important place,

went up in smoke.

and it quickly rebuilt, even larger than before.

John Silvertooth, son of the one-time stage
driver, is presently living in a shaded bungalow at

the north edge of Antelope.

John and his wife^ Laur^

remember what Antelope was like at the turn of the
century.

Laura began, "Why^yes, it was the main stop

•tween The Dalles and Canyon City, and a big sheep
shipping point.

at one time.

The population reached two thousand

There were three hotels, three stores,

a rooming house —"

Then John chimed in.

"Three, no,four saloons —

Doyles, Macbeths, and Silvertooths,

place.

That was my father's

Then there was one more — two smithies and a

couple of red-light places.
girls at the one place —*

-19-

There was a madam and two

�N. Weis

Laura helped out on the names, "Pearl and

Flossy — Flossy was the fat one."
John volunteered, "Pearl got sick — appendix.

The doc operated in the drugstore.

That Pearl, she was

good-looking — red hair — real nice looking,"

Laura added, "They buried one of them in our

cemetery.

At first they were against it, but finally

they decided to put her in a lonely corner, where she

couldn’t do any harm,"

In 1900 the railroad,reached Shaniko, a small
town eight miles north of Antelope,

It became an im­

portant ralinhead and lured away most of Antelope’s

major businesses and professional men.

The population

shrank, and most of the stores on mln street became

vacant.

Numerous fires ravaged the unoccupied buildings,

A pitifully small portion of Antelope remains standing
today.

The old Methodist Church, a fraternal hall,

Sllvertooth’s Saloon, and scattered residences offer
evidence of Antelope’s more active moment in history.

Just as Antelope had drawn heavily on Ashwood,
so Shaniko subtracted the life from Antelope,

But

Shaniko was to prosper only briefly, then suffer in
turn a similar fate.

�N. Weis

SHANIKO, OREGON
Bankers in The Dalles decided that the riches

from the large wool-growing area to the south could

best be tapped by railroad.

Galled the Columbia

Southern Railroad, it branched off the main line at

Biggs on the Columbia River, and in I9OO reached the
site of the old Cross Hollows Stage Station and Post

Office.

The station had been operated from 1874 to

1877 by a German immigrant named August Scherneckau.

The Indians trusted Herr Scherneckau in spite of the
wide difference in backgrounds and the resulting

communications problem.

Neither could twist his tongue

around the sounds favored by the other. August used the
rolling r-r-r-r and broad gutt^al vowels of his homelandi

The Indians returned each word with lighter

vowels and evenly valued syllables.

Thus Scherneckau

became Shaniko, and Shaniko was the name chosen for the

new post office established at the railhead.
Quickly a "town of permanence" was built.
larg&lt;^ brick two-story hotel was raised.

with heat available in every room.
of the roof at close intervals’.

A

It was plush,

Chimneys stand out

The corner porch is

broad, fully balustraded^ and supported by white-painted
columns.

-21-

�N. Weis

Across from the hotel a row of stores catered

to the mixed trade, supplying the wants of sheepherders
and ralH^oad men alike,

A fancy two-story firehouse

served also as^meeting place for the town council.

A

school was erected from funds donated, and taxes pa^d

for an elaborate water system.

Shaniko had grown up

to be a fancy town, but it possessed some earthy problems.
Somewhere in history, ’’'shepherd" became

"sheepherder,’’ and much of the attendant respect fell
away,

Cow^men hated them, and mothers feared them.

In

defense of their daughters, the women of Shaniko tol­
erated an elaborsrte red-light district. Shaniko had
thirteen establishments, mostly^^ndly^^ferred t^as

"sporting houses,"
Less than a dozen yea3*is ago, the town was
just a small deserted shipping point.

Then a few news­

papers carried stories about the "quaint and quiet place."
Tourists arrived in large numbers and left with amazing
quantities of "artifacts."

At first the people of

Shaniko objected to such Invasion and were insulted

to have their town classified as a ghost.

But there

was a new future for Shaniko now, a showplace for the
local history, and a watering place for a new kind of

sheep.

The new variety was similar to the original.

-22-

�N. Weis

varying mostly in eating habits, consuming much in the

way of pop, hot dogs and Kodak film.

Tattered but comfortable lounging sofas, and

hard-backed benches line the side of the hotel where
the porch offers shade and view.

Old-timers, mostly

retired sheepherders, make frequent use of these

comforts.

Each seems to have a favored spot from which

he can eye passing tourists from under lowered brim,

A

notably ugly wooden Indian stands guanrd at the hotel

door, viewing visitors with a like reserve.

The schoolhouse at the north edge of town
displays a unique architecture.

Built in 1902, it is

fronted by a tall ventilated octagonal tower,

A flag^

pole ..extends from its upper portion at an angle a bit
up from horizontal.

The building is large and square,

its roof slanting from all sides to a flat top.

Traces

of boardwalk still front the school 'and skirt the dusty
street.

The few children in Shaniko now travel by bus

to the schools at Maupin, thirty-three blacktopped miles
away,
A few blocks west of the old school, a large
rectangular structure dominates the sky.

Resembling

the base of some giant windmill, it woixld place in awe
the bravest Don Quixote,

Inspection shows it to be a

deluxe large-capacity water tower.

Water tanks occupy

the upper levels, and pipes extend downward.
-23-

�N, Weis

Below frostYine they branch in multiple directions.
The school and the hotel both Indicate that
Shaniko was once a much larger town than is evident

today.

But to justify the large water tower, one must

mentally fill in the empty lots that extend for blocks

in all directions, and replace the absent stores on

the intersecting main streets.
With a little imagination, one can hear the

old eight wheeler whistling at the mile marker, and

see the flock of sheep top the rise above town.

-24-

�N. Weis

BOYD,. OREGON
Fifteen Mile Greek carried water enough to

power a mill, and wheat fields extended for miles in
every direction.

It was a proper place to build a

grist-mill and granary,

A little store half a mile

north of the creek crossing had been built in I870,
When the mill was constructed some thirty years later,

the store suddenly found itself the center of a booming
community.

Homes were built, the store was enlarged,

and a blacksmith moved in to set up shop.

Stories

vary as to the existence of a hotel in Boyd,

Some

claim there was just a boarding'~liouse, which has since

burned down.

Others claim the old house at the south

edge of town was used as a hotel for a time. Half a
nineteenth
dozen fancy homes of the 19^ century have lasted well,
A
Under the shade of broad—branched trees they stand,
badly in need of paint, yet proudly displaying sunburst—'

patterned gablesy and stained-glass windows.

Part of

the original store remains^ and is presently in use

as a storage shed, but the outstanding remains of Boyd
are at the mill site, about a half mile to the south.
The town and the mill are both easily reached

via a good gravel road branching east about three and
a half miles north of Du'fur, on U. S, Highway 197,

-25-

�N, Weis

Boyd Is about one-half mile from the highway, and the
mill is immediately south of town.

The Dufur East

minute topograph map shows the location of both sites.
h

At the mill site, waters of Fifteen Mlle Creek

were diverted to a holding pond.

Located above the

mill, with a vertical drop of sixty feet, the water

rushed downward through an eighteen-inch-diameter flume
to make powerful contact with a large waterwheel,

Cog-«i

wheels increased the force by sacrificing speed, then
delivered the power to a slowly revolving stone roller.

As a boy might crush leaves by riding a bicycle in
tight circles, the broad roller crushed grain against
a stationary stone base.

If some ground up rock was

found in the flour, it merely lent a little bod^and
character, say those who lament the present scarcity

of stone-ground flour.
Against the mill lean the remains of old farm
implements, wagons^and cars.

One ancient truck chassis

is bodyless, but its wooden-spoked, solid-rubber-tired
wheels still cap the front axle.

♦

Above the mill is an impressive three-story
rock home.

Occupied originally by the mill'~owner, it

served a second important purpose.

Customers were

entertained while their wheat was ground.
-26-

Overnight

�N. Weis

stays were oommon.

The home is occupied at present,

and water that once powered the mill now sprays

generously on lawn and garden.
The reason

the mill shut down and Boyd

became deserted can only be speculated, -aMMr.

Cer­

tainly a water^wheel-powered roller mill was technically

behind the times shortly after the mill was constructed.
Electricity was soon available andIn most mills, steel

rollers replaced those of stone.

Other mills could

process grain for less, and consequently offer a better
purchase price.

And besides, with a gas-driven truck,

what farmer would pass up a chance to haul his harvest

to the big city, especially If the added return more
than paid for a night on the town.

�N. Weis

OREGON AREA 3

3)

•Thio Unit -Containo
approximatoly-2700 wordsv

PLACER, OREGON

^eo^le are intrigued by maps, especially

large maps.

My map of Oregon was about four by five

feet, and when spread out on a cafe counter, it became
an open invitation to comment.

Before I could com­

pletely unfold the map, someone would generally

Inquire as to where I had been and where I was going
next.

Hopefully, they would point out some little—"
-1-

p/a.ce^

�N. Weis

known site that would turn out to be a ghost town
worth visiting.
That is just what happened at a small
coffee shop In the central Oregon town of Prineville.

The waitress asked, after lifting the corner of the
map to find a place for my coffee, ’’Have you been to

Golden?

I was born there, and the last time I visited

the town It still had a church, some stores, and a few
homes.

The whole place was deserted.

Used to be a

mining town.”

pWe located the town on the map to find that

it was just one of a number of towns, all of which had
the earmarks of long desertion.

Strung out in a line,

north of Grants Pass in southwest Oregon, were Granite

Hill, Forest Queen, Winona, Lucky Queen, Placer,

Greenback, Golden, and Speaker.

It developed that

three of these towns had remnants worth observing and
stories worth telling, but to find the three, I had to

search out all eight.
The Metsker map of Josephine County, and the
U.S.G.S. 15 minute Glendale, Oregon, topographic iiiapZ^&gt;

are both of value| but of little help in finding a way

off the new Interstate.

Turn’'‘bffs, signs, new roads —

nothing agrees with the old maps until you get a few
miles away from the Interstate.

-2-

�N. Weis

A dozen miles up Louse Creek, a triangular
Intersection located the site of Forest Queen.

a cabin or two remained.

Only

One cabin was occupied, and

its owner was quick to agree that the town was
essentially non/exlst^nt, and volunteered that nearby
Granite Hill was the same.

He was right.

Granite

Hill was but a flat spot occupied by a piece of road—

building equipment.
At Winona, a few miles north, the town'^lte

had become the Shady Greek subfdlvision.

Lucky Queen

was merely a mine site, and little was left.

The

dirt road leading north toward Placer deteriorated

quickly to mud_Jioles, then abruptly worsened.

Boulders

replaced the mud, and the grade became steep.

In

places, a four-mlle-per-hour crawl was too fast.
An hour laterthe road leveled and broke

into the open.

about.

A few deserted cabins were sprinkled

The sun had set and it was rapidly darkening.

A lighted window guided me to the home of Mr. and Mrs.

Howard Coome.

They were surprised at the circuitous

route I had used to reach Placer, and I was surprised
to learn that I was in Placer,

The Goomes explained

that the little town of Placer was across the creek

that flowed along side their home, and that it was not
-3-

i^rrytn

�N, Weis

a "remote" community, but located on a blacktop

highway, just four miles from the Sunny Valley
Junction of Interstate 5.
In answer to a multitude of questions, the

Coomes informed me that the town was largely deserted,
but that it was at one time a rather large community.
They further stated that the town was now reduced to

a half-dozen or so structures, but did have two out­
standing features:

an old school and an old-timer.

They thoroughly recommended a visit to both.

The next morning I toured Placer, observing
the few remaining structures along its two parallel
streets, then drove a few miles west to talk with the

old'-timer,

George Arlington Klonus is elghty-flve years

old, of German extraction, and sharper of mind and eye

than most youngsters half his age,
"Sure it was a big town — biggest in the
county for s^hlle.

Had three stores,

them from *32 to *35.

Not sure Just when the town

started, but it wasway before 1900,

up ’til *24,

I ran one of

Had a post office

For a while it was mostly a place for

Blind Pigs,"

I asked for an explanation, and George

Arlington Klonus patiently explained,
-4-

"Speakeasies —

�N, Weis

you know — where the back door was always open — a

few glrls^too.

Sure sold a lot of home’^made whiskey.

More than twenty stills were spread out along the
creek.

One old fellow used to put glycerine in his

moonshine to make it smoother.

Pound him one day —

dead — sittin* in his rocking chalrl"
Mr. Klonus was Clerk of the School District

for a while — "up 'til the last family with kids moved
out of town.

That was three months after school started

so the teacher just sat on the steps and collected pay,"

The lack of buildings in town puzzled me
until George explained.

"Most of them burned.

afire, we thought, by just one guy.

Set

He was always

stealing firewood — never cut his own, and always had
plenty.

Had a habit of knocking his pipe out — didn't

even realize he was doing it.

We know he burned down

hisr own cabin and three others, maybe more."

—----- There is an old covered bridge a mile west
of George's home.

The date of construction is somewhat

vague, but it was one of the early bridges on the

Applegate Trail.

Rebuilt in 1925. It looks brand new.

George recommended the bridge and the town of Golden
————--as being worthy of a visit, and espoially endorsed the
old community of Greenback, just up the hill a ways.

-5-

�N. Weis

"That Greenback was a fine place.

The mine

always had plenty of fellows wanting work there —
good high-gradin’ — twenty-five dollars a day easy

no trick at all to pocket a few of the best chunks —some of ’em near pure gold.

No saloons there so they

all came to Placer to spend It."

Speaker, the last of the string of eight
towns, was quickly evaluated by George Arlington Klonus

as "underwhelming."

I crossed It off my list.

�N, Weis

GRESMBAGK, OREGON
The mineralized stretch of ground connecting
Placer, Greenback, and Golden is thickly shot with

mines.

The Star, Gold Cup, Yellowhom, Jim Blaine,

Martha, and even the Shot Mine, have punched deep holes

in search of gold.
Ed Hanham and his partner discovered one of

the richest.

Called the Greenback Mine, it proved

rich enough to require its own mill.

The heavy metal

parts for a twenty-stamp mill were hauled three miles
up the steep^winding road^ extending north from Placer.
into twenty-fouh-hour
When completed, it immediately went^itebft^^feiwjimoperation and required a crew of twenty men.

Cabins were

built to make work at the mill and mine more attractive

Soon a company store was added.

In 1902, Greenback

became officially a town when a post office was

authorized.

It lasted only six years, but during that

time many fortunes were made.

"Everyone that worked there went away rich,"
stated one former resident.

The owners finally stopped

all but the most Ingen^tous hlgh'-graders by requiring
miners to change clothes at the end of each shift.
No liquor was permitted in the company town

of Greenback,

The road to Placer was well worn.

�N. Weis

Miners made frequent trips to relieve the Itch of

money.

Their horses knew the way and often returned

to stand at the hitching rail In Greenback while

drivers and passengers, unaware their destination
had been reached, continued to sleep off the effects

of their celebration.
The road to Greenback Is In poor shape now.

It Is best to walk the last mlley^ as there Is deep mud
along the final stretch.

Heavy grout foundations, an

old log skid, and a few stamp lifters are at the burned
over mill site.

The stamp lifters, heavy double cams

of cast metal, show the reason for their abandonment.
Rectangular recesses, where locking keys once held them

firmly to the driving axle, are worn to Ineffectual

smoothness.

The shrinking evolution of the mining

effort since the rich veins petered out In the early
1900’s
•^ilnotoon hundrodc can be pieced together by observing
the age and size of the ore buckets scattered about
the premises.
A small ball mill has been erected next to

the remains of the old mill.

operations.

It has also ceased

Beside the mlllpa number of ore cars

stand on rusty wheels.

One car carries a comparatively

fresh sign stating "Jos. Sourdoughs Co.," a name

undeniably appropriate.

-8-

�N. Weis

Adjacent to the newer mill are a few of the
original mine shacks of Greenback.

They are presently

used for equipment storage and are securely locked.

A

lonely out3iouse stands a short distance from the storage

sheds.

A continuous stream, from an artesian well, is

directed under considerable pressure against the out-^

house door, effectively prohibiting its use.

The water

then flows down the road from Greenback, transforming
a dirt road to a tree~lined lane of mudj|L — two feet
deep.

Far-reaching, and better than a locked gate,

it prevents easy access and precludes any possibility
of heavy equipment being stolen.

-9-

�N. Weis

GOLDEN, OREGON
There was gold to be found in the gravel of
Coyote Creek, but It was finely divided and thinly

scattered.
hand.

A man could hardly make wages panning by

The few miners sticking It out on Coyote Creek

were- quick to Join the 1850 rush to the new find on
the Salmon River.

As the white man left, Chinese moved

in to take over the deserted claims. Soon there were
more than (5^ spread out along the length of Coyote
Greek.

It took only a few years to skim the cream

of rich deposits at the Salmon find.

Soon the thin

deposits at Coyote Creek began to look good by compari­

son, especially in the light of new placering techniques.
The Chinese were quickly run off and old claims
were reoccupied.

Hydraulic placering was soon tried

and found profitable.

The word spread and more miners

came to stake claims.

The community slowly grew as

Coyote Greek continued to release its treasure.
150
There were more than one-jmndred fi#ty-people

living along the creek in 1892.

The time had come to

organize.

A "Campbellite" ^hurch was built that year.
Soon a carriage house was

opened for business.

.''and a general ^tore

In I896 the town was formally
-10-

�N. Weis

recognized, and a post office opened under the name of
"Golden. '*

By all reason, they should have named the

town "Ruble City,"

The first minister was William Ruble

later replaced by his son, W. N. Ruble.

Schuyler Ruble

was the first postmaster, and S. C. Ruble was active in
the local mining effort.

He was the inventor of the

Ruble elevator, a device designed to remove unwanted
gravel from stream beds.

general ^tore.

S. C. Ruble also ran the

S. C. Ruble and Schuyler Ruble may

have been the same person.

If so, he was obviously

talented and busy.
It must have been a red-letter day when stored
keeper Ruble turned his duties over to a man named

something other than Ruble,
Columbus Bennett,

The new storekeeper was

Ruble was Bennett's uncle.

Later,

Harold McIntosh ran the store, but of course Bennett
was McIntosh's uncle.

Coyote Smith was appointed Justice of the
Peace, and apparently was unrelated to the Rubles,

Justice must remain aloof and untainted.
The schoolhouse was in operation about a
half mile down the creek to the west.

On Sundays it

served as a church, with the Reverend Mark David offi­
ciating.

Sinners had little chance in Golden,
-11-

Two

�N. Weis

churches and no saloons.

Perhaps that Is why

neps

lived strung out down the valley.

Golden today consists of a church, carriage

house, the old store, several old homes, and numerous
shacks scattered along the stream bed.

It is easily

reached, just four miles east of Wolf Creek on the

Coyote Creek Road.
Mr. and Mrs. Orville Cornwell own much of

the ghost town now, and are living in one old residence
while they properly recondition another.

Their future

home is a handsome one and nicely intact where it was

protected by a metal roof.
an open-air motif,

Elsewhere it has more of

I stepped through a large opening

in the rear porch and was immediately met by two

squirrels moving at high speed and headed for the
nearest tree,

I stepped through a doorway into the

old living room.

There, to the right, was an old stove

resting on a metal floor protector.

Standing upon the

broad metal sheet was a third squirrel.

He reacted

quickly, his hind legs moving faster than the smooth

surfaces could accommodate.

His speed built up slowly,

and he headed toward the door, making a smooth turn to

miss my feet.

As he approached, his rear legs were

beginning to slide toward the outside of his turn, but
he continued without deceleration, and passed me going

�N. Weis

broadside, his rear "wheels" still spinning, his head

turned sharply in the direction of the skid.

His rear

end was slightly ahead as he passed through the door.
Then with a wobble of over-«correction, he reached top

speed and lined away for the nearest tree.
The Golden Community Church is a classic,

ranking with those in Richmond, Oregon, and Atlantic

City, Wyoming.
shape.

Rebuilt in 1950, it is in excellent

The bell is still in its tower, but only

because of a watchful neighbor.
Not long ago, when the town appeared deserted,

a man drove quietly into town, parked his pickup close

beside the churchj.and unloaded an extension ladder.
The Interloper proceeded to climb to the belfry,

carrying a block and tackle slung across his shoulder.
Unaware that he was observed, he loosened the ventilating

boards,

BONGI

The bell rang.

It rang so loud that

the sound of shot and ricochet was hardly detectable.

But the would-be thief knew he was in trouble.

Either

the hand of God was poised to strike again, or someone

was shooting in his direction.

He left town with little

dignity and much alacrity.
Eighty—year-old Harold McIntosh, one-time
operator of the general s/tore,*^and long-time resident

-13-

�N. Weis

of Golden, lives a quarter mile northeast of town In
Rohlnson s Gulch, alongside one of the finest strawberry
patches In Oregon,

He Is a willful, honest man.

He may

fracture a word here and there, but the meaning Is
always clear,

I Introduced myself, and asked, "Harold

McIntosh, I believe?"
With just the faintest twinkle In his eye,
he replied, "Well ,,,,mostly,"

We talked strawberries

and weather for a while, then got down to serious history,

Harold McIntosh mined Robinson Gulch with

his own Giants (hydraulic gunspouring out a mighty
stream.

"We

Three men helped him with the operation,

got some gold — but It wasn’t so good.

Not as good

as Coyote Creek — they took out millions there.

Used

to get seventeen dollars an ounce — In 1933 It went up

to thirty-five dollars.

The gold was nine hundred fine,"

I asked If It was true that Golden had no

saloon,
"Never had a saloon, but they all dralnk
sort of ’no whiskey - no mining,’

Never saw anyone

drunk, though,"
Business was good when Harold ran the store,

"Had to build on a lean—to — needed more room.

That

was about the time they were tearing down some of the
houses to get the gold beneath them,"
-14-

He paused, then

�N, Weis

grinned and went on.

store.

"Used to hold dances at the

Church wouldn’t allow it.

I finally gave up

and built a dance hall down at Wolf Creek.

Had real

good times there, but church folk still gave me trouble.

Used to parade around the dance hall prayin’ away the
devil — was fanatakism — pure fanataklsm."

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