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                  <text>Frank Julian Writes of

SOME EARLY RANCHES
By FRANK JULIAN

(Editor’s Note: ’The author of
the following interesting article
came to Natrona County in 1896
and has lived in this county continually since that date. He first
came to Wyoming in 1889. Mr.
Julian is an authority on horti­
cultural matters and has won
scores of blue ribbons for his work
as a horticulturist. The article
below deals with the ownerships
of Natrona County ranches in the
early days.)

In the year, 1870, a young man who
had come to this country with a
wagon train, stopped and said to
himself, “This country looks good
to me and I believe I will stay here.”
He built a half-dugout half-log
cabin at a point about three miles
southwest of the mouth of the
Sweetwater river and at the south­
east comer of the Sweetwater rocks.
Prom Rawlins, his closest town, he
packed in supplies on a horse. He
lived here for three years, hunting,
trapping and looking the country
over. ’This man was Tom Sun and
in the spring of 1873 he picked as
the most promising land for his fu­
ture cattle ranch,” the Sweetwater
river country just above Devil’s
Gate. His son, Tom, now owns the
ranch and it is known as the Tom
Sun Ranch.
THE FL COW RANCH at the
head of Poison Spider Creek was
started in 1822 by a Mr. Wade. Wade
ran the FL for several years before
selling it, along with the UC Ranch
and lower UC Ranch on Horse Creek,
to Robert Taylor, The late Oscar
Helstand was Mr. Wade’s last fore­
man at the FL. Robert Taylor, who
was later a senator from Natrona
County, ran sheep on these rjinches
for a great many years before selling
the properties to the Grieves who
still own them.
About ia7»-Alex' »wan -Df Chey­
enne and Scotland started the Two
Bar Ranch on Bates creek. This
ranch is now owned by John Tobin.
Mr. Swan also started the 07 about
this time. The 07 is located at the
lower end of Bessemer Bend and is
now owned by Mr. William Hufford.
Mr. Swan also owned ranches on the
Chugwater, using these mostly for
stock cattle. He called his company
The Swan Land and Cattle company.
’The Pathfinder Reservoir now oc­
cupies the land Which was formerly
the TW Ranch, owned by A. J. Both­
well. Mr. Bothwell started his ranch
on the Sweetwater river at the
mouth of Horse creek, about four
miles below Independence Rock in
1882. It was a cattle ranch until
1907 when the U. S. government
bought it for the Pathfinder Reser­
voir site.
THE DUMBELL RANCH located
just below Devil’s Gate was started
in 1882 also by Dr. Schoomaker. This
prc^erty is now owned by William
Grieve.
About 1881 two ladies from Eng­
land started the Goose Egg Ranch
on the Platte river at the mouth of
Polson Spider. They employed a gang
of stone cutters for about one year,
cutting and dressing native stone
for the two story ranch house. In
1886 they sold Goose Egg to J. M.
Carey and his brother. While the
ranch was operated by two ladies
from England, William Ervlne was
their range foreman, Ervine later
left here to go to northern Wyoming
where he managed the Half Circle L
Ranch for many years.

rest of their lives. In 1908 he passed
away and in 1914 she passed away.
It takes a lot to feed four healthy
youngsters and two grownups. Then
there were the transients that ex­
pected to be fed. I have heard cow­
boys say that Mrs. Stroud never
allowed anyone to go by her place
hungry. She was a fitting wife for
a frontiersman. An expert shot with
a rifle, many are the elk and ante­
lope she added to the family pot
from her dooryard.
The station four miles east of Cas­
per is named Stroud after this fam­
ily. The Stroud ranch is now owned
by Homer Lathrop.
Of the youngsters mentioned, three
are now living. Mrs. Laura McGrath
and Mrs. Bell Patton in Casper and
Charley Stroud in Washington state.
THE FIRST HOUSE built on Can­
yon creek was a log cabin, 16’ by 20’,
and was located at a point about
two miles east of the m.outh of the
creek on the north side. It was
built by Jack Roberts who came up
the trail from Texas with a herd of
steers in 1882. Roberts did not stay
long, but shipped his cattle out and
left the country. He did not file on
the land and Mr. Boney Earnest
filed on it, added four more rooms
to the cabin and made it his home
ranch. Earnest lived here until 1907,
when he sold to the government for
the Pathfinder reservoir.

FRANK JULIAN

THE OLD GOOSE EGG ranch
house received much publicity in
Owen Wister’s book, “The Virginian,”
for it was there the babies’ clothes
were changed, causing some parents
an anxious hour or two.
This ranch, comprising 1,200 acres,
was later sold to D. N. Speas who,
in 1888, had located his Cross S
Ranch at the upper ehd of Bessemer
Bend, Mr. Speas passed away several
years ago, but his widow, Mrs. Mary
N. Speas, still lives on the ranch.
In 1880, J. M. Carey oi Cheyefne
located his CY ranch two mi]e.&lt;
southwest 01 where Casper is today.
For a good many years he ran cattle
on the CY and this ranch is now
owned by Harry Yesness, Casper
clothier. Mr. Carey at one time own­
ed the Y Ranch on the Greybull, the
SO Ranch down the Platte at the i
mouth of Boxelder, the C Lazy Y
also on the Platte and his home ,
ranch, Careyhurst, on Boxelder. Mr.
Carey, who passed away several
years at a ripe old age, served one
term as governor of Wyoming and
also as United States senator from
Wyoming.

THE WRITER BUILT the next
cabin on the creek, near the mouth
on my homestead and I lived there
♦' • •
until I sold it to the government.
FRANK ERVINE took up land at
The first house built on the little the Cottonwoods mentioned above
Canyon creek was a three-room the Earnest ranch on Big Canyon
hewed log built by Mr. Dan Fitger creek and was named for a nice
for Pedro Arisola, a Spanish-Amer­
ican who was a cowboy for the Pick
outfit. Arisola did not prove up on
this land, but left to work in Utah.
In 1896 I bought his Improvements,
moved the fencing and sold the
house to Mr, E. M. Irwin who filed
on the land and proved up on it&lt;
Irwin later sold to Mr. Roy Cardwell and moved on down the creek
to a new location, which is now his

THE V BAR V ranch was located i
on the Muddy in 1881 by B. B. I
Brooks. This ranch is about 251
miles east of Casper, and Gov.
Brooks built it to a large ranch in
a few years by buying small holdings.
The V Bar V is now owned by Dr.
H. E. Stuckenhoff of Casper. Mr.
Brooks served two terms as governor
of Wyoming and was prominent in |
oil and banking circles. At the time
of his death, a few years ago, he
was president of the Wyoming Na­
tional Bank. His widow, Mrs. Mary
N. Brooks still lives in Casper.

IN 1876 JOSHA STROUD took the
advice of Horace Greeley to go West
young man, go West, Taking his
wife and four young children he
left his home in Indiana and in a
reasonable time he arrived in Chey­
enne, Wyo. He lived in Cheyenne
for several years and then decided
to file on a piece of land about four
miles from where Casper is now
located, where the Oregon ’Trail
crossed Elkhorn creek. After filing
on this land, he took out a ditch, put
in a garden and some alfalfa and
i they made themselves at home. For
I the next four years he had to haul
his supplies from Cheyenne with

home ranch. At this point a bear little grove of cottonwoods that grew
there on the creek.
story will be in order.
In 1900, Henry Cardwell establish­
MR. FITGER, while building. the ed a homestead on little Canyon
creek, just where it comes out of the
Arisola home, had his brother-in- Pedro mountains. After living there
law, Hans Neilson, working for him. a good many years, he sold it. Don
Hans was wrangling horses one day Ervine now owns this place and* uses
down at the cottonwoods, a place 1 it as his home ranch. Don also
will mention later in this article. He owns his homestead west down to­
was up on a cliff looking down on a wards the river and two homesteads
little brush patch. Wanting to try on Big Canyon creek, the Frank
out his new 45-90 Winchester, he Ervine place at the Cottonwoods and
threw a rock in the dead brush, plenty of leased land from the gov­
thinking to scare out a deer. .A deer ernment.
did not come out, but a bear did.
Hans downed the bear in two shots,
AT THIS TIME I want to menand out came another bear. Well, tion a spot I found in the Pedro
he shot bears for a few minutes and mountains, It is about two miles
then got too scared to go down and south and a little west of the Ervine
investigate. Hans went over to home ranch and is almost inaccessi­
Boney Earnest’s for help, but Cap­ ble.
I discovered while hunting
tain Bayley was there alone and deer in the winter of ’96. Some
thought it too late in the day to boulders have been arranged by hu­
hunt crippled bears. So they waited man hands and there are pieces of
until the morning to go down and arrow lying around. I asked Boney
look the situation over. In the Earnest what he knew about it and
morning they found five dead bears, he said they called it an old Indian
meat and hides all spoiled in the fort. He thought two bands of In­
July weather.
dians had fought to the death at
Hans became a good cowman and this place. He said, “Your guess is
was foreman for Dr. E. P. Schoo­ as good as mine.”
maker on his Dumbell ranch on the
I also must mention a spot I found
Sweetwater river. I knev/ him very on the Platte river near my house.
well. In 1900 he moved to Canada.
It looks like a house had once stood
In 1894, Horatio Burtch filed a there and the remains of a fireplace
homestead on little Canyon creek, are around. I found it in 1877 while
about one mile above Pedro Arisola’s
place. He proved up and sold it
and it now belongs to Roy Cardwell.
Burtch was a rider for the Pick out­
fit for many years.

fishing at the mouth of the cree'
It looks just the same now as it di
then. Someone must have live
there at some time in the past.

�Vol. 2

SEPTEMBER, 1925

No. 1

Independence Rock and other Historic Land Marks
Along the Casper - Rawlins Route
seekers for gold in California, and then
later by the settlers bound for Oregon.
In Alfred J. Mokler’s History of Na­
trona
County, Wyoming, we find the fol­
HE Old Oregon Trail is said to have
been 2,000 miles long. Doubtless to lowing story of Independence Eock.
“Independence Eock, the ‘Eegister of
most of the pioneers westward bound
it seemed to be 20,000 miles long. This pio­ the Desert, ’ is probably the most interest­
neer route is generally conceded to have ing landmark on the whole of the old Ore­
begun at Independence, Missouri. If we gon Trail. It was at this spot the weary
■aro-tn ju(]ge by the atm-les of misfortunes., ])ilgrims, who traveled bv slow-going teams
stopped to rest and refresh themselves.
Whi('h occurred along this famous route
and the time it took to travel its course It was here that they found pure, fresh
we are certain to conclude that it was in­ water and an abundance of feed for their
stock. It w’as here that they gathered
deed a trail.
It has been a question as to who laid out about the campfires in the evening and
the “Oregon Trail” and it will undoubt­ sang the old-time songs while the young
edly remain unanswered. It seems to have people danced in the moonlight on the
been the natural route and was undoubted­ well-beaten area. It was here that they
ly selected by the earliest explorers and cared for their sick and buried their dead.
trappers. These were later followed by
“This isolated mass of granite stands
missionaries, then by Mormons, later by out on the desert plains at the foot of the

Remove not the ancient landmarks
which thy fathers have set.” Prov.
22-28.

Eocky mountain range in the Sweetwater
country. When the emigrants reached
here from Independence, they had traveled
838 miles, and they considered that they
had covered half their journey. The Sweet­
water Eiver flows along the southern base
and, according to many writers and his­
torians the old Oregon Trail was on the
north and west sides of the Eock, where
-the—county road is-now loc-ate4-,--and thc-old bridge was supposed to be just east
of where the new county bridge was built
in 1920. This was not the ease however.
The old Oregon Trail crossed the river
about a mile east of the Eock, w’here the
Sweetwater stage station was located, and
passed by the Eock on the south side of
the river, and of course south of the Eock.
“From the very first the emigrants made
Independence Eock their camping place

View of the new treated timber bridge over Sweetwater River, Natrona County, Project No. 164B, Casper-Rawlins Road under con­
struction. Historic Independence Rock in the background, old Oregon Trail in the foreground. The original route of the pioneers
was around to the right or south of Independence Rock, while the new highway passes to the left or north of the Rock where suit­
able markers have been installed to perpetuate the memory of the pioneers of those days.
This point is 56 miles from Ca sper and 65 miles from Rawlins.

�4

WYOMING ROADS

September, 1925

and the custom of inscribing on it their
bows, arrows, lances and shields; no more
names caused Father DeSmet to call it
will it mark for weary migrating hosts a
INDEPENDENCE BOCK
‘ ‘ the great register of the desert. ’ ’ The
spot of solace and of rest; for it forever,
Probably discovered by returning AsIndians in the early days came here to
probably, will remain only the quiet soli­
torians, 1812. Given its name by emi­
paint their picture—writing on its smooth
tude of a lonely place, peopled solely by
grants who celebrated Independence
walls. It is said to have been named
the memories of sunshine and shadow from
‘ ‘ Rock Independence ” by a party of trap­
day here July 4, 1825. Captain Bonne­
days that are no more. But as the soft
pers who passed there early in the nine­
whispering winds of summer play about
ville passed here with first wagons, 1832.
teenth century. It is known that Robert
its massive flanks let us believe they bring
Whitman and Spaulding, missionaries.
Stewart and his party passed by here in
to it a message to mingle with those memo­
With wives, stopped here, 1836. Father
November, 1812.
ries; let us believe they re-echo to it as
DeSmet saw it and owing to many
they pass the Song of the West, which tells
“There is no record of the exact date
names upon it called it the “Eegister
to us all:
of the first white man to pass this way,
of the Desert,’’ 1840. Gen. John C.
’At first ’twas the lure of metals, the dullbut Rev. Samuel Parker, who was there
Fremont camped here with U. S. army,
red stream borne gold.
on the 7th of August, 1835, says ‘this rock
Aug. 2, 1842. Fifty thousand emigrants
When the weaklings died by the roadside,
takes its name from the circumstances of
passed here in 1853. It is the most fa­
when the slid snows buried the bold.
a company of fur traders suspending their
mous landmark on the
And then ’twas the lure of the ranges, the
journey and here observing in due form
miles of unbroken sod.
the anniversary of our national freedom. ’
OLD OREGON TRAIL
Where the herder spread his blankets
Captain Bonneville was here on or about
’neath the scintillant stars of God.
the 14th of July, 1832, for he says: ‘On
A bronze tablet measuring 24"x36" was But now ’tis the song of the water fioodthe 12th of July we abandoned the main
ing the thirsty soil;
stream of the Nebraska (now the Platte), placed on the northwest corner of the
which was continually shouldered by rug­ rock recently and bears the above inscrip­ The grind of the stamps, quartz crushing,
the gush of the spouting oil.
ged promontories, and making a bend to the tion.
The crash of the fall­
southwest for a cou­
ing timber, the
ple of days, part of
murmuring
fields
the time over the
of grain.
plains of loose sand,
The hum of the
encamped on the 14th
blooming orchards,
on the banks of the
the road of the la­
Sweetwater, a stream
boring train’.’’
about twenty yards
How fitting that qua.
in breadth and four
of the highways of
or five feet deep,
the Wyoming Federal
flowing between low
Aid System passes
banks over sandy
by this venerable
soil, and forming one
landmark! The new
of the forks or up­
highway from Casper
per branches of the
to Rawlins follows
Nebraska. Frequently
the old County road,
the plains were stud­ Mastic wearing surface under construction on the new treated timber bridge over
ded with isolated Sweetwater River, Natrona County, on Federal Aid Project 164-B, showing a portion in some places cross­
of the famous Independence Rock in the background.
ing and in some places
blocks of rocks, some­
paralleling the old
times in the shape
“In the year 1843 the Oregon Trail first Oregon Trail. That section of the high­
of a half globe, and from 300 to 400 feet
high. These singular masses had occa­ became a great national highway, when a way passing close by the Rock is known
sionally a very imposing and even sublime thousand homeseekers passed over the as Federal Aid Project Number 164-B., re­
appearance, rising from the midst of a Trail with their teams, ‘ and each year cently completed.
The new highway
thereafter’ writes Ezra Meeker, ‘wagon
savage and lonely landscape.’
passes to the West side of the rock where
‘ ‘ Captain Bonneville was preceded by teams passed over the whole route to the
Nathaniel Wyth, who was there during the Oregon country in varying numbers, wear­ suitable markers have been placed, and
month of May of the same year. Dr. Mar­ ing the track deeper and deeper, until fi­ to the South crosses the Sweetwater over
cus Whitman and his bride, who were mak­ nally the greater exodus in 1852, when a new treated timber bridge, replacing the
ing their wedding tour as missionaries to a column of 50,000 strong moved out from County bridge mentioned in Mokler’s His­
the Indians on the Pacific coast, and Rev. the Missouri rvier and lined the Trail with tory.
H. IT. Spalding and his young wife, were dead, 5,000 or more in number for that
Just adjacent to the rock at the point
at the rock in 1836. These were the first one year alone. Fully 300,000 people where the tablet has been placed is one of
white women that crossed the Rocky crossed over what might be termed the the standard markers of the Oregon Trail,
mountains, and of course the first white eastern section before the advent of the similar to a number of other markers
women to set foot on Independence Rock. Pacific railroad in 1869, which diverted
which have been placed at various points
“Father DeSmet was here in 1840. He later traffic, and the Trail again became a
along the route.
writes: ‘It is the first massive rock of solitude.’ ’’
The highway also passes near Devil’s
that famous chain which divides North
In 1920, Judge W. A. Riner of Cheyenne,
America, and which travelers call the back­ in an address at Independence Rock before Gate, another object of historic note,
bone of the universe. It is the great regis­ several hundred people eulogized as follows: thence through what has been known for
ter of the desert; the names of all the
“No more will this great rock behold years as Muddy Gap, and a few miles fur­
travelers who have passed by are here to the wild troops of savages, bedecked with ther to the southwest joins the Rawlinsbe read, written in course characters.’
paint and war plumes, fluttering trophies. Lander road.

�I

p/'

The Blackfeet Indians

The Blackfeet (Algonquian) Indians were the scourge of the Upper Missouri country

during the existing period of the wars between the white man and redmen in the North­

west country. The territory of the Blackfeet was the watershed of the Missouri river
above the mouth of, and including, the Milk river, although it may be a doubtful ques­

tion if the territory above the Three Forks ought not rather be considered as common
or fighting ground of the various tribes. The heart of the Blackfoot country may be

taken as the immediate valley of the Missouri, near the mouth of the Marias, where the

river makes it great bend from north to east. There were included under the general
term Blackfee1j4’our distince bands; the Slackfeet proper (Siksikau), the Piegan (Pikuni),

the Bloods (Kainah), and the Groventres of the Prairies or the Falls Indians (Atsinai),
numbering all told about 14,000 souls. The origin of the naraS”Blackfeet" is said by tra­
dition to arise from the fact that in some of the tribal disputes of this nation the
Siksikau separated from the rest of the tribe, then on the Saskatchewan river, or even

farther north, and resolved to take up their new abode in the south. It was in the fall
of the year when they reached the valley of the Missouri, and prairie fires had swept

the country in every direction. After traversing this burnt district until their moccasins

were blok with the ashes, they were met by a band of Crow, who, from their appearance,
called them Blackfeet. This tradition may not be entitled to any greater weight than the
following which accounts for the bitter hostility of these Indians to the whites. When

they first saw the effect of firearms they were so much impressed that they wanted to
know where they could procure some powder.

They were told that it was a kind of a grain,

which, if sowed in the spring, would, like any other grain, multiply in the harvest. They

procured a large qxiantity of the powder at great cost and made the experiment. Nothing

could ever induce them afterwards to treat the white man as a friend.

BEbnencv^t cEnxwvr ccw*ai
i-IVIWOHV COnUXA
'•.* M’

2--:'

f

�trail memorial ASSor,
CENTEN A RY
April 10, 1930

CELEBRATION

December 29, 1930

PRESIDENT HOOVER’S PROCLAMATION
Washington, D. C., Feb. 22 1930 President
Hoover in a formal proclamation today cal­
led upon the nation to commemorate April
10, the one hundreth anniversary of the de­
parture of the first wagon train from St.
Louis, Mo., toward the Oregon country.
The proclamation read:
“The congress by unanimous vote has
authorized commemoration of the heroism
of the fathers and mothers who traversed
the Oregon Trail to the far west.
“On April 10, 1830, the first wagon train
left St. Louis for Oregon, pioneering the
way for the thousands of men and women

who settled the Pacific states. On Decem­
ber 29, 1830, Ezra Meeker was born, who
carried over into our day a personal memory
of this historic epoch. The Oregon Trail
Memorial association, which he founded and
which includes men and women in all walks
oi life in all parts of the country, has spon­
sored the movement to observe the period
from April 10 to December 29 of this year
as the covered wagon centennial, to recall
the national significance of this centenary
of the great westward tide which establish­
ed American civilization across a continent.
“Therefore, I Herbert Hoover, president

of the United States, do call upon our people
to employ this fitting occasion to commem­
orate the lives and deeds of the heroic
pioneers who won and held the west.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set
my hand and caused the seal of the United
States to be affixed.
“Done at the city of Washington this
twenty-first day of February, in the year
of Our Lord, ninteen hundred and thirty,
and of the independence of the United
States of America, the one hundred and
fifty-fourth.
“HERBERT HOOVER.”

by
Joseph G. Masters, Omaha, Regional Director
BLAZING THE TRAIL
ma
advent of the first wagon train over the
Old Oregon Trail. On that date Capt. Wm. Sublette set out from St
Loins with ten wagons and two Dearborn carriages for the Rendezvous
on Big Wind River in Wyoming. He followed the general route of Robert
Stuart of the Astorians and others of the great iur-trapping brigade.
These tracks were followed a little later by the men of the covered wagon
who set out for homes in that far-off country of Oregon,—hence the
name The Oregon Trail.
' ihele was born 'thaf same year—December 29,
looO near Huntsvielle, Ohio—a man who was to make the long journey
in 1852 as a pioneer to Oregon. Many years later (in 1906) he was to retrace the tracks of the old trail with an ox-team telling again the story
of its romance and tragedy to a generation that had never known that
terrible battle through the great American wilderness, across miles and
miles of trackless and treeless desert, over almost impossible mountain bar­
riers, through torrential streams that took its human toll as well as that
of the sturdy oxen, and past mountain defile with its waiting ambush of
the lurking savage—all in the old ox-wagon making from twelve to fif­
teen miles per day.
This man, Ezra Meeker, made still other trips over this great high­
way by ox-team, automobile, air plaine; erecting many monuments
at the great landmarks along this mighty highway. He may well be called
the “Daddy of the Trail,” and so conspicuous has been his services in ex­
ploring and marking its pathway, in making known its struggles and
hardships, in organizing the Oregon Trail Memorial Association, that it
is altogether fitting that the one hundredth anniversary of his birth, mark
the closing date of our centenary celebration.
At the age of 98 this remarkable old man set out again from head­
quarters in New York in an “ox mobile” given him by Henry Ford for
one more trip over the great sunset trail. By the time he had reached
Detroit he was so ill and so nearly worn out that he was compelled to
finish the journey to the land he loved in a pullman. Here at Seattle,
surrounded by his loved ones, he crossed the last great divide, December
3, 1928. His last words form our challenge today: “I am not quite ready
to go; my work is unfinished.”

THE GREAT TREK
The Oregon Trail and the Santa Fe Trail were one for 41 miles out
of Independence, Mo. At a point just west of what is now Gardner,
Kansas was a sign post pointing to the northwest with the legend “Road
to Oregon.” The trail crossed the Kansas or Kaw just west of Topeka,
crossed the Big Blue at Marysville, and entered Nebraska at the south­
east comer of Jefferson county. Just a short distance north was the
famous Rock Creek station where Wild Bill Hlckock killed McCanles in
the ’6O’s. This is about six miles southeast of Fairbury. A mile south­
west of this spot, high on Inscription Rock, may still be seen the names,
“Kit Carson, Col. John C. Fremont, 1842.”
Three and a half miles north and a half mile west of Fairbury one may
see Dripping Springs and the Mormon graves nearby. Six miles north
and a half mile west is Winslow Grave. From Jefferson county the trail
went west along the Little Bl le four miles north of Hebron, past what
is Oak, Nebraska where in tht terrible Indian raid of 1864 a part of the
Eubanks family was murdered and Mrs. Eubanks and Laura Roper were
taken captives by the Indiana. The trail followed west past Spring
Ranch to the Old Dinner Station, (nine miles southwest of Hastings,) on
northwest to the Lone Grave five miles northwest of Kenasaw. Thence

Platte River and joined the Nebraska City Road
(which left Nebraska City, ran west to Ashland, north of David City
SIX miles north of Osceola to Dog Town and Point City, two very small
towns a mile north of Lowell.) Both towns have long since disappeared.
From here the trail ran west to Fort Kearney, the site of which is four
M south and four miles east of Kearney and is now owned by the state
of Nebraska. On the north side of the main highway may be seen the
deep trenches of the fort. A part of the modem flag pole may b^found
over among the trees.
west to Plum Creek where occurred some of
. hardest f^hting with the Indians. On west it went to the stage
stations near Gothenburg, west past Brady’s Island to Ft. McPherson
Oust southeast of the present national cemetery across the river from
Maxwell). The trail passed at the bottom of Sioux Lookout behind which
Indians would hide and swoop down on the passing wagon-trains
I he Oregon road went on the south side of the South Platte to a point
tour miles west of Brule, Nebraska where many crossed and made their
way over the high table land to Ash Hollow' which is just south across
the river (and east) from Lewellen, Nebraska. What a wonderful place
IS Ash Hollow! As one approaches from the north there is, on the right
in the little cemetery, the grave of Rachel Patterson, a ’49’er, whose
original grave stone now rests beside a beautiful Oregon Trail Marker
Farther up the canyon south is the pond now formed by the spring
which offered such a wonderful camping place in trail days. There were
many trees too, in the hollow in the old days. About three or four miles
up the canyon high on the west side of Windlas Hill one may still see
the deep gulches of the old trail ruts as the wagons were let down the
long hill to the bottom of the canyon.
Instead of crossing just west of Brule many kept on up the south
Platte to where Pt. Sedgwick was built later, the site of which may be
seen today six miles southwest of the present Julesburg on the south
side of the river. The trail crossed the river here and came out on the
north side, just below Lodge Pole Creek. This branch of the trail follow­
ed west to a large pine tree, struck northwest to Mud Springs (now
Simla), going just east of famous Court House Rock and Jail (ten miles
south of Bridgeport) on to the North Platte where it joined the trail made
by those who had gone via. Ash Hollow. Wonderful Chimney Rock so
famous in trail days is just south of Bayard, Nebraska. These great
landmarks could be seen for days enroute for it must be remembered that
Oregon Trail Caravans moved only about a dozen miles a day.
Scott’s Bluff was the next great landmark and the old trail here
made its way through Mitchell Pass where so many thousands of wheels
cut the gulch so deep that only the bare tops of the wagons might be
seen by an observer a few feet away. Prom here the trail swept into
Wyoming to that wonderful haven and refuge. Old Fort Laramie. This
great fort was the mecca of all who moved west over the trail,—ibr here
they could rest, purchase supplies, and have their wagons repaired and
their oxen or mules shod by the blacksmith. In the old days the fort
was adobe. In 1849 the government bought it as a military post. Three
of the old buildings erected in the early ’5O’s—the suttler’s store. Old Bed­
lam, and the guard house,—are still standing.
Prom this point the pioneer battled to a point three miles west of
what is now Gasper where later was built Platte Bridge which was
destooyed by the Indmns who, (in the terrible attack on a wagon train in
186^) killed CaspOrfcollins for whom the city was later named. The trail
here crossed to the north side of the river and for the last time joined

�the California and Mormon Trail (called also the Overland Trail and the
3 a board or headstone, and hundreds of graves left without
Oregon Trail) which took its beginning at Kanesville (Council Bluffs),
this affectionate token ot remembrance, furnished abundant evidence of
Omaha, and Mormon Hollow north of Bellevue. One branch of this
the unsparing hand with which death has thinned their ranks. The
trail ran through a part of what is now Omaha. The Mormons crossed
®attered fragments of the vehicles, provision, tools, etc., in­
the river and built Winter Quarters on the present site of Florence. +tended to be
taken across these wild plains, tell us another tale of reck­
During the winter of 1846-47 some 500 died and their graves may be
less boldness with which many entered upon this hazardous enterprise,
seen in Pioneer Cemetery, west from the park in Florence.
undertake this long trip except with very good animals,
The Mormons began their great journey to the Promised Land in the
vehicles and with a good supply of light provisions,
spring of 1847. Their road, generally speaking, was that followed later
such as tea, coffee, sugar, rice, dried apples, peaches, flour and peas or
by the Military Highway, the Union Pacific, and the Lincoln Highway.
Deans.
Three miles southwest of Central City was the famous Cottonwood tree
STORY OF MARCUS WHITMAN
which has long ago disappeared but now replaced by one of concrete.
In the summer of 1832 three Flathead chiefs and a Nez Perce came
As the caravans dragged their weary miles over the two trails in
to Saint Louis seeking the “Book of Heaven” and the White Man’s God
Nebraska they could often see each other across the Platte,—the great
whom they had heard about in their home beyond the Rocky Mountains.
white winged argonauts moving always into the Great West.
The story of this search spread so that in the spring of 1835 Dr. Marcus
From Platte Bridge west of Casper the old trail made its way 55
Whitman and Samuel Parker set out from New York as missionaries to
miles southwest to great Independence Rock,-a mighty landmark of the
these Indians. Going west to the Green River Rendezvous they found the
desert covering 27 acres. This was a famous place for camping, for mar­ Indians anxious to have the missionaries in the homes of the red men
riages, and even many who died near were carried here for burial,-for
Thereupon’ Whitman arranged to take back with him two Indian boys
graves out on the desert or along a stream were so difficult to mark that and tell the story at home. Here Dr. Whitman removed two arrow heads
they were seldom found in later years of search. Five miles west of here irom the back of the famous old mountaineer, Jim Bridger, while the Inwas Devil’s Gate, a great gap where the Sweetwater cut an enormous dians looked on with the utmost wonder at such surgical skill.
gorge directly through the mountain range. And now came that delight­
ful drive west along the winding channel of the Sweetwater out on the
Green River Rendezvous of
1835 related by Parker of the great Kit Carson, that is worth telling
open prairie and the desert. All along through Nebraska and to South
here: I will relate an occurrence which took place, near evening, as a
Pass in Wyoming might be seen thousands of buffalo in the early days
of the trail. Black tail deer, antelope, elk, grouse, prairie chicken, sage specimen of frontier life. A hunter, who goes technically by the name of
the great bully of the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded rifle
chicken, and occasionally mountain sheep were to be had by the skillful
and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to
shot of that day.
Split Rock, Dangerous Three Crossings, the great Wind River Range, fight him in single combat. Kit Carson, an American, told him if he
wished to die, he (Carson) would accept the challenge. Shunar defied
Rocky Ridge, and Burnt Ranch (of later days) were all of the utmost in­
terest to the trail-maker. When the crest of gentle South Pass was him. Carson mounted his horse, and with a loaded pistol, rushed into close
reached and the weary traveler could look off to the Pacific Slope there contact, and both almost at the same instant fired. Carson’s ball entered
Shunar’s hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above
was an unbounded joy,- and yet this was only the half-way mark. How
the elbow. Shunar’s ball passed over the head of Carson; and while he
fortunate that so many could not realize the terrible journey still ahead.
went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared.”
Camping at Pacific Springs just over the Divide the weary caravans
It was spared.
finally crossed the little Sandy, the Big Sandy, the Green River and
made their way on to Fort Bridger. From this point those going to Utah
Dr. Whitman told his story of the Indians to the American Board
but most of all to Narcissa Prentiss, a beautiful strong and courageous
and some going to Californiii turned south, but many swung again to
the great Northwest with a renewed determination to go on to Oregon. young woman who had wanted since early girlhood to go west as a mis­
These with others who had followed up Ham’s Pork, to Smith’s Fork, now
sionary. Dr. Whitman and Narcissa were married and with Rev. H. H.
crossed the mountains and went down Bear River to Soda Springs with its Spalding and his wife, Eliza Spalding, together with the two Indian boys
medicinal waters bubbling high in many sprays and jets. As the Bear
and Wm. H. Gray, set out with two well filled wagons in the spring of
River made its great loop and turned to the south another road led away
1836 for the mountains. They moved west to the landing near Liberty,
to California. The Oregon Trail then took a northwesterly course
Missouri. Dr. and Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding proceeded by boat to
through what is now Pocatello to Fort Hall on the banks of the Snake
what is now (Council Bluffs while Gray and Spalding came overland with
River.
the wagons, eight mules, twelve horses, and sixteen cows.
From Fort Hall the old trail swept around that vast semicircle of the
They crossed the Platte River in boats of skins, and fortunately fell
SnaKe in southern Idaho, on past Thousand Springs for 40 miles along
in with the expedition of the American Fur Company, under the highly
the Snake. It crossed the Snake at (Renn’s Ferry^Idaho where we found _skn!ed leadership of Fitzpatrick. The company caravan consisted of 19
a rearOregon TraTil grave,—marked with three-fourths buried wagon-tires. carts each with two mules hitched tandem, one light Dearborn wagon,
The trail crossed again at Ft. Boise and left the Snake at Farewell Bend,
and two mules and two wagons belonging to an English nobleman, “titles
Thence it made its way up Burnt River, over the Powder, down Ladd’s
and all on.” He had with him another of blood “Who, between them, had
Canyon, to the Grand Ronde, over difficult Blue Mountains, and down
three servants, two dogs, and four extra fine horses to run and hunt the
the Umatilla to the Columbia. Here the emigrants floated down the
buffalo.”
great river to the places they wished to settle. The vast trek of over two
There were almost no trail marks of any kind except that of the
thousand miles across the western half of the continent was at an end.They
buffalo which were often worn deep and at right angles to the road they
had reached home at last and were now ready to settle down as the
were to take up the Platte. So out on the great sea of billowing prairie
empire builders of the West.
launched this interesting caravan with the first white women ever to go
ALONG THE TRAIL
over the dim trail which in time was to be called by the Indians, “The
There were usually two, three, and even four or five tracks of the old Great Medicine Road of the Whites.” They killed game as they went,
trail in the sod or desert. As soon as one was cut deep another would traded with Indians for buffalo meat, made two dug-out boats with
be formed, and, often a driver would make a new track in trying to find which they crossed the Platte when they reached Fort Laramie. Some­
a better road or cutoff. Frank Helvey who first saw the Old Trail in times the nobleman’s dogs would give chase to the fleet-footed antelope
what is now Jefferson County, Nebraska in 1858 thus describes it: “I but were generally so outdistanced that Sir William would return to the
shall never forget that sight. Endless lines of white top wagons, drawn train swearing that the antelope could outrun a streak of lightning.
by oxen, mules, horses winding and trailing through the blinding clouds
From Fort Laramie west Dr. Whitman was determined to take
of dust that hung in the air, and driven to their utmost energy by the his wagon and the fur company retained a single cart with the goods
goading and hallooing of many men. I had never before seen such a loaded on pack animals. A special detail of men had to help the wagon
sight so we camped that night near by and watched the wonderful scene and the cart when they overturned or were stuck in the mud. At the
of the twinkling miles of camp fires up and down the whole valley.”
crossing of the Platte below Red Buttes buffalo were killed, their hides
Father DeSmet who made so many trips into the Old West as a mis­ sewed together and stretched over frameworks of willows. With tal­
sionary says, “The 2nd day of September, 1851, we found ourselves on low thoroughly rubbed into the skins and dried, these “Bull boats” ser­
They made their way
the Great Route to Oregon, over which, like successive ocean surges, ved as excellent conveyances across the river.
the caravans, composed of thousands of emigrants from every country past Independence Rock (after carving their names on the south side)
and clime, have passed during these years to reach the rich gold mines to be met soon by one of the wildest cavalcades ever seen in the moun­
of California, or to take possession of the new lands in the fertile plains tains.
and valleys of Utah and Oregon. These intrepid pioneers of civilization
Joe Meek, the old mountain man with his band of trappers and a doz­
have formed the broadest, longest and most beautiful road in the whole en Indians came over the hill from the west riding like wild men to give
world—^from the United States to the Pacific Ocean. On the skirts of the Whitman party a real welcome to the mountains. On they came,
this magnificient highway there is an abundance of grass for supplying riding faster and faster, yelling louder and louder, and gesticulating
the cattle and animals appertaining to the caravans which are incessantly more and more madly, until they met and passed the caravan, they dis­
traveling on it, from early spring to autumn, every succeeding year. The charged their guns in one volley”. They paid great deference to the two
road is fine, broad, and perhaps the longest in the world. This immense ladies in the party and told them many wonderful tales of this new life
avenue is like a barn-floor swept by the winds. No blade of grass springs in the west.
up, so unceasingly is it trodden by the feet of thousands of Americans
The caravan soon passed Split Rock and moved on to South Pass
and Europeans hastening to California. Our Indians, who had seen only
pathless wastes, crossed at most by a hunter’s trail, thought, on behold­ where one may still see the markers calling attention to the tracks of
ing it, that the whole nation of the whites had passed over it, and the the Oregon Trail and the fact that Narcissa Whitman and Eliza Spald­
the land of the sunrise must be depopulated. They could hardly ing were the first women ever to cross the Rocky Mountains. As they
believe me when I told them that the multitudes who had gone were passed over this great divide and looked into the slope of the Pacific
“they alighted from their horses and kneeling on the other half of the
scarcely missed.”
continent, with the Bible in one hand and the American Flag in the other,
“The scene we witnessed on this road presented indeed a melancholy
proof of the uncertainty which attends our highest prospects of life. took possession of it as the home of American mothers and the church of
Christ.”
The bleached bones of animals everywhere strewed along the track, the
At the American Rendezvous on Green River they met the vast con­
hastily erected mound, beneath which lie the remains of some departed
friend or relative, with an occasional tribute to his memory roughly course of trappers, Indians, traders in their wild orgy of yarns, trading,

�fighting, drinking, racing, gambling and sometimes killing. From this
point they set out with a Hudson Bay party for the long stretch to Fort
Hall on the banks of the Snake. Whitman persisted in taking his wagon
as far as this fort. Here Dr. Whitman converted the wagon into a cart
and with it the party struggled forward to Ft. Boise where he was
forced to leave it for the time being,—and, where it proved of immense
service to the Hudson Bay Company in completing their fort.
Four
years later carts, and seven years later, wagons were to come on
through to Oregon. It is to Marcus Whitman, however, that we must
give the larger credit in making the great trail a roadway.
From Ft. Boise they made their way along the Snake, thence up
the Burnt River, down Ladd’s canyon into the Grande Ronde, thence over
difficult Blue Mountains. Gray, who was a member of the party, says,
“As the party began to descend from the western slope of the Blue Moun­
tains, the view was surpassingly grand. Beiore us lay the great valley of
the Columbia: on the west, and in full view. Mount Hood rose amid the
lofty range of the Cascade Mountains, ninety miles distant. To the
south of K. t. H ood stood Mt. Adams, and to the north Mt. Rainier; while
with the assistance of Mr. McKay, we could trace the course of the
Columbia, and determine the location of Walla Walla.”
Making their way down to the British posts of Ft. Walla Walla and
Ft. Vancouver where they were courteously received and cared for,
Whitman selected as the place for his mission, Waiilatpu, some 30 miles
east of Ft. Walla Walla, while Spalding settled among the Nez Perces,
120 miles farther east. Dr. and Mrs Whitman at once erected buildings,
called the Indians around them, planted and harvested their crops from

season to season, attended the sick, taught the Cayuses the Christian
faith, and fed and cared for many weary immigrants at the end of their
long struggle across the continent. All of the time the entire Oregon
country (now Oregon, Washington, Idaho) was claimed by the Great
Hudson Bay Company for the British.
One day in the fall of 1842 when Dr. Whitman was at Ft. Walla
Walla, it was announced that the Hudson Bay Company was at last
bringing settlers into the country. One of the guests was so greatly elat­
ed that he arose from the table and shouted. “Hurrah for Oregon, Ameri­
ca is too late; we have got the country.” Something surged deep within
the heart of this great American. In two hours he was back at his mis­
sion and within twenty-four hours he swung into the saddle for a 4,000
mile journey to the capital of the United States.
With a small escort he was at Ft. Hall in eleven days and knowing
of the terrible snows in the mountains, he left the Oregon Trail and
turned south toward the Santa Fe Trail. Passing Ft. Unita and Ft.
Uncompahgre and striking boldly over the terrible snows of the moun­
tains the party lost its way. Lovejoy says that after hours of waiting
in the storm, an old mule pointed his ears forward and when urged ahead
guided the party back to the camp of the previous night. Whitman rode
back to the fort, secured a new guide, and was again soon fighting his
way through the terrible drifts, and gorges, over almost impassable
barriers, through icy streams and with frost-bitten fingers, nose, toes,
and ears, finally reached Taos. From here the party went to Santa Fe,
where they picked up the well worn tracks of the Santa Fe Trail through
New Mexico to that wonderful haven. Bent’s Fort, in Colorado. Thence
Whitman made his way on east to Independence. He arrived at St. Louis
about the last of February, 1843, and hurried by stage to Washington.
Still dressed in his buckskin breeches and his great buffalo coat with
hood, heavy fur leggings and boot mocassins, he arrived at the nation’s
capital about the time the Secretary of State, Daniel Webster, was say­
ing, “But you are too late. Doctor, for we are about to trade off Oregon
for the cod-fisheries.” It is said that he got a better hearing with the
frontiersman, John Tyler, President of the United States. At all events,
they at the capital, would remember the intrepid courage of one of
America’s great men of the trails and his plea for the land beyond the
Western Mountains.
All the way east Whitman had stirred up the people by telling them
of the wonderful country on the last frontier. As he came back to Inde­
pendence in the spring, a great party of 200 wagons and 1,000 men,

women, and children were ready for that Great Migration in its mighty
trek across the plains. Again following the trail into the great west this
party organized, quarrelled, divided, but kept the divisions within supporting distance of each other. Whitman was always in the van pointing
the way, swimming the streams to guide the caravan to the best crosslooking after the sick at night, and encouraging every one by hi®
hopefulness and promise of land and plenty in the great western empire,
ihis time they reached the Columbia with their wagons. Two succeed­
ing emigrations added greatly to the number of Americans spreading
over Oregon. These tides of humanity were too staunch to be turned aside, or trifled with. Thus, in 1846, Great Britain recognized the Amer­
ican pioneer (who went into the west for homes) by signing the treaty
giving to the United States the Oregon Country as far north as the 49th
parallel.
The great missionary and the emigrants had won, but Dr. and Mrs
Whitman were to pay the great price. The Cayuse Indians, because
many of their number had died of a strange malady, believed the doctor
was the sourse of the illness, and hearing also the great numbers of
whites now coming to the new land, brutally murdered Dr. and Mrs.
Whitman, little Mary Ann Bridger, and Helen May Meek, daughters of
the great fur trappers, together with some nine others in November of
1847.
Six miles southwest of Walla Walla today the traveller and explor­
er of the Old Oregon Trail may behold the beautiful monuments an&lt;f
markers which a grateful and thoughtful people of a great state hav«
erected to the memory and heroism of theseintrepid
..........................
American pioneers.
IN CAMP ON
THE PLATTE
“ An unoccupied spec­
tator, who could have be­
held our camp today, would
think it a singular specta­
cle. The hunters returning
with the spoil; some erect­
ing scaffolds, others drying
meat (of the buffalo). Of
the women, some were
washing, some ironing,
some baking. At two of
the tents the fiddle was
employed in uttering its
unaccustomed voice among
the solitudes of the Platte;
at one tent I heard sing­
ing; at others some were
engaged in reading, some
the Bible, others pouring
over novels. While all of
this was going on,. that
nothing might be wanting
to complete the harmony
of the scene, a Campbellite
preacher, named Foster,
was reading a hymn, pre­
paratory to religious ser­
vice.”
Joel Palmer in 1846.
A DAY WITH THE COW COLUMN IN 1843
by
Jesse Applegate
The above title represents the story of one day’s travel on the old
trail and has now become a classic. It is written by Jesse Applegate who
went out with the “Great Migration,” of the Whitman party of 1843.
The Oregon Historical Quarterly (Dec. 1900) has done a great service in
preserving such an intimate word picture of life on the trail. Some ex­
cerpts appear below:
“The emigrants were also assured that the Sioux would be much
opposed to the passage of so large a body through their country, and
would probably resist it on account of the emigrants’ destroying and
frightening away the buffaloes, which were then diminishing in numbers.
“The migrating body numbered over one thousand souls, with about
one hundred and twenty wagons, drawn by six-ox teams, averaging about
six yokes to the team, and several thousand loose horses and cattle.
“The emigrants first organized and attempted to travel in one body,
but it was soon found that no progress could be made with a body so cum­
brous, and as yet so averse to all discipline. And at the crossing of the
“Big Blue” it divided into two columns, which traveled in supporting
distance of each other as far as Independence Rock on the Sweetwater.”
“It is four o’clock A. M.; the sentinels on duty have discharged their
rifles—the signal that the hours of sleep are over—and every wagon
and tent is pouring forth its night tenants, and slow-kindling smokes be­
gin largely to rise and float away in the morning air. Sixty men start
from the coral, spreading as they make through the vast herd of cattle and
horses that make a semicircle around the encampment, the most distant
perhaps two miles away.
“The herders pass to the extreme verge and carefully examine for
trails beyond, to see that none of the animals have strayed or been stol­
en during the night. This morning no trails led beyond outside animals
in sight, and by 5 o’clock the herders begin to contract the great, mov­
ing circle, and the well-trained animals move slowly towards camp, clip­
ping here and there a thistle or a tempting bunch of grass on the way.
In about an hour five thousand animals are close up to the encampment,
and the teamsters are busy selecting their teams and driving them inside
the corral to be yoked. The corral is a circle one hundred yards deep,
formed with wagons connected strongly with each other; ths wagon in
front by its tongue and ox chains. It is a strong barrier that the most
vicious ox cannot break, and in case of an attack of the Sioux would be

�BO contemptible intrenchment.
From 6 to 7 o’clock is a busy time; breakfast is to be eaten, the
tents strucK, the wagons loaded and the teams yoked and brought up in
readiness to be attached to their respective wagons. All know when 7
©clock, the signal to march sounds, that those not ready to take their
proper places in the line of march must fall into the dusty rear for the
cay.
“There are sixty wagons. They have been divided into fifteen diinsions or platoons of four wagons each, and each platoon is entitled to
lead in its turn. The leading platoon today will be the rear one tomor­
row, and will bring up the rear unless some teamster, through indolence
or negligence, has lost his place in the line, and is condemned to that
uncomfortable post. It is within ten minutes of seven; the corral but
BOW a strong bayicade is everywhere broken, the teams being attached
to the wagons. The women and children have taken their places in them
The pilot (a borderer who passed his life on the verge oi civilization and
has been chosen to the post of leader from his knowledge of the savage
smd his experience in travel through roadless wastes), stands ready, in
the midst of his pioneers and aids, to mount and lead the way. Ten or
fifteen young men, not today on duty, form another cluster. They are
ready to start on a buffalo hunt, are well mounted and well armed as
ttiey need be, for the unfriendly Sioux have driven the buffalo out of the
Platte, and the hunters must ride fifteen or twenty miles to reach them.
The cow drivers are hastening, as they get ready, to the rear of their
charge, to collect and prepare them for the day’s march.
“It is on the stroke of seven; the rush to and fro, the cracking of
whips, the loud command to oxen, and what seemed to be the inextricable
confusion of the last ten minutes has ceased. Fortunately every one has
been found and every teamster is at his post. The clear notes of a trum­
pet sound in the front, the pilot and his guards move out of the encamp­
ment, and take up the line of march the rest fall into their places with
the precision of clock work, until the spot so lately full of life sinks
back into that solitude that seems to reign over the broad plain and
rushing river as the caravan draws its lazy length towards the distant
El Dorado.”
“They (the wagons) form a line three-quarters of a mile in length;
some of the teamsters ride upon the front of their wagons, some march
besides their teams, scattered along the line companies of women are taking exercise on foot; they gather bouquets of rare and beautiful flowers
that line the way; near them stalks a stately greyhound, or an Irish wolf
dog apparently proud of keeping watch and ward over his master’s wife
and children. Next comes a band of horses; two or three men or boys fol­
low them, the docile and sagacious animals scarce needing this attention,
for they have learned to follow in the rear of the wagons, and know that
at noon they will be allowed to graze and rest. Their knowledge of time
seems as accurate as on the place they are to occupy in the line, and
even a full-blown thistle will scarce tempt them to straggle or halt until
the dinner hour has arrived. Not so with the large herd of homed beasts
that bring up the rear; lazy, selfish and unsocial, it has been a task to
get them in motion, the strong always ready to domineer oyer, the_,weakt. -■Will I.—Il ■■ ' halt hl the front and rofbidfhu weak to pass thein.” "
“But from the standpoint of the hunters, the vexations are not appar­
ent; the crack of whips and loud objurgation are lost in the distance.
Nothing of the moving panorama, smooth and orderely as it appears, has
more attractions for' the eye than that vast square column in which all
colors are mingled, moving here slowly and there briskly, as impelled by
horsemen riding furiously in front and rear.”
“But the picture in its grandeur, its wonderful mingling of colors
and distinctness of detail, is forgotten in contemplation of the singular
people who give it life and animation. No other race of men with the
means at their command would undertake so great a journey, none save
these could successfully perform it, with no previous preparation, relying
.
only on the fertility of their own invention to devise these means to overi'
come each danger and difficulty as it arose. They have undertaken to
perform with slow-moving oxen a journey of two thousand miles. The
■way lies over trackless wastes, wide and deep rivers, ragged and lofty
mountains, and is beset with hostile savages. Yet, whether it were a
deep river with no tree upon its banks, a rugged defile where even a
loose horse could not pass, a hill too steep for him to climb, or a threat­
ened attack of an enemy, they were always found ready and equal to the
occassion, and always conquerors. May we not call them men of des­
tiny?”
“It is now one o’clock; the bugle has sounded and the caravan has
resumed its westward journey. It is in the same order, but the evening
is far less animated than the morolng march; a drowsiness has fallen
apparently on man and beast; teamsters drop asleep on their perches
and even when walking by their teams, and the words of command are
now addressed to the slowly creeping oxen in the soft tenor of women or
the piping treble of children, while the snores of the teamsters make a
droning accompaniment.”
“The sun is now getting low in the west and at length the painstak­
ing pilot is standing ready to conduct the train in the circle which he has
previously measured and marked out, which is to form the invariable
fortification for the night. The leading wagons follow him so nearly
around the circle that but a wagon length, separate them. Each wagon
follows in its track, the rear closing on the front, until its tongue and
ox-chains will perfectly reach from one to the other, and so accurate the
measure and perfect the practice, that the hindmost wagon of the train
always precisely closes the gateway, as each wagon is brought into posi­
tion. It is dropped from its team (the teams being inside the circle), the
team unyoked and the yokes and chains are used to connect the wagon
strongly with that in its front. Within ten minutes from the time the
leading wagon halted, the barricade is formed, the teams unvoked and
driven out to pasture. Every one is busy preparing fires of buffalo chips
to cook the evening meal, pitching tents and otherwise preparing for the
night.”
“All able to hear arms in the party have been formed into three
companies, and each of these into four watches; every third night it is

the duty of one of these companies to keep watch and ward over the
camp, and it is so arranged that each watch takes its turn of guard duty
through the different watches of the night. They begin at 8 o’clock P M
and end at 4 o’clock A. M.”
Before a tent near the river a violin makes lively music, and some
youths and maidens have improvised a dance upon the green; in another
quarter a flute gives its mellow and melancholy notes to the still night
air, which, as they float away over the quiet river, seem a lament for the
past rather than a hope for the future. It has been a prosperous day;
more than twenty miles have been accomplished of the great journey.”
“But time passes; the watch is set for the night; the council of old
men has been broken, and each has returned to his own quarter; the
flute has whispered its last lament to the deepening night; the violin is
silent, and the dancers have dispersed; enamored youth have whispered
a tender “good night” in the ear of blushing maidens, or stolen a kiss
from the lips of some future bride—for Cupid here, as elsewhere, has
been busy bringing together congenial hearts, and among these simple
people he alone is consulted in forming the marriage tie. Even the doctor
and the pilot have separated for the night. All is hushed and repose from
the iatigues of the day.”
DATA AND DISASTER
For the first few years after the opening of the trail by the SublettJackson-Smith initial wagon-train of 1830 only a few hundred set out
each year. The year of 1843 with the Great Migration marked the first
large numbers into the West. In 1844 from 500 to 700 went out; in 1845
over 3000 with 460 wagons made their way into the West; while in 1846
approximately 1600 went to Oregon and California. In 1847 at least 3000
Mormons made the trip over the two branches of the trail, finally reach­
ing Salt Lake; in 1848 a large number of Mormons and others were again
found on the trail. This year may be said to close the pioneer-emigrant
period.
With the great gold excitement spreading over the world in 1848 and
1849, thousands upon thousands started for California. Some -went around
the Horn (a few paying $1000 each idr passage), others via Panama, and
by April 1, 20,000 had gathered along the banks of the Missouri ready to
begin the trip over the trail just as soon as the spring grass would make
its appearance to sustain the oxen and mules. The St. Joseph Advocate
states that by May 18 of that year 2850 wagons had crossed the river at
that point, and l^y June 1, 4000 wagons had passed Pt. Kearney on the
south side of the river alone. It is estimated that from 8000 to 10,000
wagons went over the trail that year. There were often as many as ten
oxen to each wagon.
In the year of 1852, 500 wagons passed Fort Kearney in a single day.
In a period of twenty-four hours, 888 wagons were counted on the trail
between Fort Kearney and Julesberg on the south side of the river. In
1857 Albert Sidney Johnson passed over the trail with 2500 soldiers en­
route to quell the Morihons. Large numbers again fared forth with the
“Pike’s Peak or Bust” discovery of gold in 1858 and 1859. In 1859 the
secretary of the Columbus Ferry Co. at Loup Pork (just west of what is
now Columbus, Nebraska) counted the following by the middle of June:
1987 wagons, 5401 men, 429 women and 48 children, 1610 horses, 406
mules, 6010 oxen, and 6000 sheep.
With the moving of such vast hordes into the West, many started
poorly prepared and outfitted. Worst of all, the dread scourge, the “Asi­
atic Cholera,” broke out in 1849 on the trail. Its victims would often live
for only a few hours after the first attack. A multitude of graves soon
lined both sides of the great roadway. Thus, the pioneers ol the plains
lay dead in rows of fifties and seventies along the great highway. It is
estimated that 5000 perished in the two or three years’ ravages of this
terrible disease. Chenoweth, who ■went over the trail at this time, says,
“But the name of cholera in a multitude—unorganized and unnumbered—
is like a leak in the bottom of a ship whose decks are thronged with pas­
sengers. The disturbed waters of the ocean, the angry elements of Nature,
when aroused to fury, are but faint Illustrations of the terror-stricken
mass of humanity, when in their midst are falling with great rapidity
the comrades—the strong, the young and the old—the strength and vigor
of youth melting away before the unseen foe. All this filled our ranks
with the utmost terror and gloom. This terrible malady seemed to spend
its most deadly force on the flat prairie east of about Fort Laramie.”
In 1860 the Omaha Republican estimated that a person could see
from 50 to 100 teams at once on the trail. By May 23 of that year,
residents declared that between 2500 and 3000, wagons had passed along
the roadway of the trail. It was claimed on May 19, 1860 that 700 teams
crossed in a single day between the Elkhorn and Loup Pork on the north
side of the Platte.
In the latter part of the ’5O’s the great firm of Russell, Majors and
Waddell began their freighting business into the West. From April 25,
to October 18, 1860 they had transported 2,750,000 pounds of freight. At
one time this firm had in use on the trail 6000 wagons, 10,000 men,
100,000 oxen,, and many hundreds of mules. The enormous wagons
carried from 5,000 to 15,000 pounds each.
Stage coach travel was begun in 1858 across the 1900 miles from the
Missouri river- to the western coast. At first it took 38 days carrying
both passengers and mail, but this time was soon reduced to 24 or 26
days. In the early ’6O’s Ben Holladay had 135 stations, with 500 coaches
and 150 drivers pushing on night and day to make the trips from river
to coast.
By 1860 the Pony Express riders were carrying the mail at break­
neck speed from St. Joseph to San Francisco in 10 days. Each rider
carried the mail a distance of from 75 to 100 miles with two minutes for
changing horses every 10 or 15 miles.
Altogether, hundreds of thousands moved into the Far West as
trappers, traders, voyageurs, gold seekers, soldiers of fortune, emigrants,
soldiers, and settlers. One writer estimates that all in all there were
2,000,000 to pass over the old trail in helping to build the great westerB
empire of the trans-Missouri country.

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              <text>Oregon Trail Memorial Association</text>
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              <text>This Letterbox contains an article titled "Frank Julian Writes of Some Early Ranches," an issue of Wyoming Roads (September, 1925), a paper titled "The Blackfeet Indians," and a copy of the Oregon Trail Memorial Association's December 29, 1930 newsletter.</text>
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              <text>The reformatted text and images in the Alfred J. Mokler Letterboxes are for personal, not-for profit use of students, researchers, and the public. Any use must provide attribution to the Casper College Archives and Special Collections (Western History Center). While being the property of Casper College, all text, images and other materials are subject to applicable copyright laws. Commercial use, electronic reproduction, or print publication ot text, images, or other materials is strictly prohibited without written permission. All permissions to publish must be obtained from the rights holder and are not the repository's responsibility for securing. The rights holder may or may not be the repository. Users also agree to hold the repository harmless from legal claims arising from their use of material held by the institution and made accessible in this digital repository.</text>
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