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                    <text>Part III

IDAHO

�N. Weis

&gt;

“ ^he high country of Idaho is endowed with

nature’s fulj/^t measure.

Tall mountains, big trees,

rushing waters^ and /^ep blue skies are combined in
beautiful proportion,

beauty is seldom found

without a touch of adversity.
Of adversities, logging trucks and narrow

roads are two of Idaho’s most challenging.

hazards are invariably encountered together.
-1-

The two

Although

Leesburg, Idaho

�N, Weis

roads are of noted solidarity* they appear to be
thoroughly flexible when viewed through this observer’s

phobia.

The road shrinks to fractional width whenever

a logging truck approaches.

The narrow portion of

the road seemingly travels ahead of the vehicle,
accompanied by a shock wave of fear and despair.

Even

the boldest seek shelter, or lacking that will huddle
precariously at road's edge.
I had been in Idaho for less than an hour
when a logging truck put me in the ditch.

It was

on the well-traveled Salmon River Road, north of Salmon
The logger insisted on the

and west of North Pork.
middle of the road.

That gave me an option on the

ditch, which I quickly assumed.

Later I learned that

a logger had dropped his rig into the river a few days
earlier.

The driver had been over-courteous, and his

right wheels, too close to the edge, broke down the

fill at the river's edge.

The truck flipped and

rolled into the white waters of the Salmon River.

Other drivers quite naturally decided thereafter to
use the center half of the road.
One of the foresters at the Indianola Ranger

Station indicated that I was not the only victim.

A

number of tourists had reported similar encounters.

^2-

Leesburg, Idaho

�N. Weis

The ranger advised, "Just pull over, close your eyes,
and think thin."

He also advised that the back road

into Leesburg was presently used by loggers.

I

decided to take a longer but more relaxing route,

Leesburg* is reached most pleasantly by
going south of the town of Salmon for about five miles

on U.S. Highway 93, then turning west on the Williams

Creek Road.

Fourteen miles up this steep, all-weather

road is Williams Greek Summit.

Beyond the ^ummlt,

the road parallels Moccasin Creek, reaching downstream

eight miles to its junction with Napias Creek,

A

right turn here leads you seven hard miles up Napias
I
Creek to Leesburg, The road is narrow and rocky,

changing to a badly rutted dirt surface for the last
few miles. 'Just past the crossing of Gamp Creek, the

road angles to the right and enters a large grassy
The main street
meadow. ^Mainsj^eet — two ruts with grass between —

stretches eastward std across the flat, flanked on

the north by perhaps a dozen log structures.

Fewery

but more impressive buildings line the south side of

the road.

Ahead, the aspens close the road to a

narrow path, and dark green pines stretch up the
the
slope, topping out at^skyline.
A

Leesburg, Idaho
Idaho, for map Information,

�The first building on the north side is a
small, low^double-walled log cabin, probably used as
a cooler or powder house.

Toward the middle of town

is a long, extensively sway^^backed log store, its
low^wide walls bulging and bending as the collapsing

roof spends its weight.

Nearby a ridgepole slants

nakedly, the few remaining roof boards clinging
momentarily.

Across the street, a low-ceilinged

two-story log store stands roofless and in near ruin,
its gable end leaning^ as if nodding in sleep.

Two

of the cabins along the overgrown street are occupied.

Although often told, the story of Leesburg
can withstand yet another try, especially in the
light of some "new” Information uncovered at the

Lemhi Museum in Salmon,
Prospectors in northern Montana had heard

the rumor of a stream of gold high up in the southwest
hills.

Five miners, following directions given them

by friendly Indians, worked their way up the Nez

Perce Indian Trail, over the ^ivide, across several

drainages, to the high slopes overlooking the present
Site of Leesburg.

The sediments of the many tributary

streams were panned, and on August 12, 1866, gold-rich

gravels were found.

The five miners named the stream

"Napias," after the Indian word for Jgold.'^
-4-

Leesburg, Idaho

�N. Weis

Word, leaked out, and by summer’s end three
thousand miners had filed as many claims along seven

miles of stream,

A town sprang up, named for General

Robert E. Lee, populated mainly by southerners.

Not

to be outdone, the northerners established Grantsville

about a half mile

up'Hstream on Naplas Creek,
-.,—1

Grantsville has been erroneously located one mile west
of Leesburg, placing it high on a timbered hillside,

an unlikely home for gold-hungry placer miners.

The

two towns soon grew into one, and the entire town went
by the name favored by the majority.

In I870 there

were more than one hundred businesses located on the
main street of Leesburg,

floors^-||

Most of the stores had dirt

few of the finer establishments sported

cowhide carpets.
By 187^ the town was nearly deserted and the

Chinese moved in to scour the sands for riches overP*
looked.

Five years later, the Chinese were massacred.

The total number killed is not known, but one survived

to report the tragic event.

The Indians were blamed,

but later evidence indicated it may have been the work

of an outlaw gang.
The gold was gone by 19^0, Even the last—
C
ditch hydraulijkers had given up. Sixteen million

-5-

Leesburg, Idaho

�N. Weis

dollars^ worth of gold had been panned and sluiced
from the gravel bars of Naplas Creek.

The population

soon dropped to less than one hundred.

In 19^^ It

fell to two, then dropped from two to zero.
In 1969 (Leesburg’s centennial year) two
young bearded men chose to reoccupy the long-«deserted

town.

Squatter’s rights seem adequate, and their

quasl-legal status bothers them little.

They look

and act as If they belong In Leesburg, and their

presence Is a beneficial deter^nt to the eroslonary
effects of eager souvenir hunters.

-6-

Leesburg, Idaho

�N. Weis

COBALT ( BLACKBIRD), IDAHO
"Do not fall to visit Cobalt.
old, but it sure is dead."

It isn’t very-

The same advice came from

a number of people in Salmon.

Notable among them was

the curator of the town’s historical museum.
Good maps are quite indispenslble here.

The

Forest Service roads are poorly and confusingly marked.

The Leesburg and Blackbird Mountain, Idaho, 15 minute
topographic maps are excellent help; however, the

Salmon National Forest Map (free) would be an adequate

although less detailed navigational aid.
From the Leesburg turnoff,* at the junction of
Moccasin and Naples jfreeks, a good gravel road continues

downstream about three miles to the point where Panther
Creek enters from the south.

The left*hand road

reaches up the west bank of Panther Greek three miles

to a narrow flat, totally occupied by the newly
deserted town of Cobalt.

Cobalt, once called Blackbird, is in mint

condition.

Nothing has been moved and there have

been no disastrous fires.

More than one hundred

buildings line the streets, standing white and clean.
Except for padlocks and shutters, the town appears

alive and healthy.

Cobalt has been deserted since

1959, when the mine closed.

“7“
V *See Leesburg, Idaho,

Once there were 450

Cobalt, Idaho

�N. Weis

company employees and a population
2,000.
120
of more than •Wa—th^uBand, The school had ono-hundred
I,
twenty pupils, fe^»^teachers and 8 grades. A long
three-story recreation hall stands Idly vacant, ready

once again to provide entertainment.

Next to the

hall a long low general store sits empty. Its display

window boarded over| and Its round metal IGA sign shot
full of holes, none even close to dead center.

Most

of the buildings are covered with white asbestos
shingles^ and trimmed with green-painted woodwork.
The streets are still In fine shape.

Occasional

manhole covers Indicate a drainage system.

How Incongruous — a ghost town with manhole
coverst

No doubt some would argue that a town must be

old to be a ghost, but the cold fact Is, the town need
only be dead.

From that moment on, time serves only

to age the remains^ and enhance the memory.

The Blackbird Lode, with Its rich deposits
of gold, was responsible for the birth and subsequent
death of Cobalt,

Located two miles up Panther Creek,

then another four miles to the right up Blackbird
Greek, the buildings at the mine fill the creek’s

narrow canyon.

The town of Blackbird was once

located here.

Some of the old log cabins still squat

Cobalt, Idaho

�N. Weis

beside the stream.

One in particular sports a set

of over-long ridgepoles, as If a deluxe porch had
been planned but never realized.
g:00
It was aAght a.m. when I drove up the canyon

to look over the old site.

It was foggy, and I nearly

drove through the locked gate blocking the road below
the mine.

A doorbell-type button offered a chance

at access.

Shortly, a young mining engineer responded

to the signal, and Invited me in for a quick tour.

He

explained that the mine was Indeed inactive, but that

a crew was drilling test holes, attempting to locate
new leads.

We talked for a while about the lost

veins and new strikes made at the Blackbird.
Gold was found here in 1893.

In pursuit

of the yellow vein, nickel and copper were found.

In

1901 cobalt was found in quantity, but no market
existed for the metal.

Prom 1913 to 1921, thirty-five

thousand dollar^ worth of gold, nickel^and copper was

mined.

Ore was hauled to Utah for smelting.

The boom arrived in 1939, with a government

contract for cobalt.

The new town of Cobalt was built,

and tons of cobalt ore were yanked out and sold at a
guaranteed price of $2.30 per pound.

million pounds had been mined.

By 1959, fourteen

The j^ovemment contract

expired that year, thejmine closed, and Cobalt lost its
uy.

Cobalt, Idaho

�N, Weis

reason for existence.

The town was quickly deserted.

Later the mine was sold for its junk metal, but the
new owner found some copper left and brought it to

the surface in *63 and ’67,

The mine was then resold

to the Idaho Copper Mining Company,

It is their

engineers that are re-evaluating the residual deposits

Metals worth in excess of fifty million

dollars have been taken from the tunnels of the
Blackbird,

For one short moment in its history, it

was the world’s leader in gold production, and gold

was only a sideline to the production of cobalt.

Should investigation reveal new deposits,

the mine and town will arise again to full life,
probably rechristened for whatever metal is found,
"Nickel" has a nioe ring to it — but "gold" sounds a
shade richer.

1»-

Cobalt, Idaho

�N. Weis

YELLOW JACKET, IDAHO

It was raining and the light was rapidly-

fading.

doubtful.

The route to Yellow Jacket was long and

A roadside cafe looked Inviting.

Perhaps

someone there would have information about the roads
and the extent of the remains left at Yellow^^ket.
"Yes. there's an old town there — and an
old mine.

They called It the YJ Mine."

The waitress

had heard others speak of the place and was happy to
pass on the information.

"Someone^the other day^sald

the hotel burned down."

This news, the rain, and the

prospect of twenty-five miles of soupy roads was
reason enough to consider a change in plans.
Had it not been for the chance appearance

of a passing fisherman, I would have passed up one
of the finest and least known ghost towns In Idaho.
As the gentleman entered the cafe, the waitress called
to him, "Say — didn’t that hotel at Yellow Jacket burn
down last year?
"No, that's Just rumor — I was down there

last week, and it's still there — all five stories
Five?"

my voice was unnaturally loud

"Well," he answered

"it's three stories In
son of a gun,
front and five behind. It's a long 8en:/of-a«-gun, but
A
they never quite finished it
Guess it was never used

-1h

Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N. Weis

There’s a crew in there now — assessing the old mine."

An hour later I had gathered all the Informa­
tion available from the helpful fisherman, and even

received permission from the cafe owner to camp
overnight at a nearby deserted trailer park.
By morning the skies cleared.

The gravelly

soil had absorbed much of the rain, and a brisk wind

was quickly evaporating the remainder.
In good shape.

The roads were

Upstream along Panther Creek, seven

miles from the cafe at the Blackbird Road Junc^on, a
narrow road branches to the right.

Traveling generally

west. It climbs along South Pork Creek, switchbacks

over the south slope of Quartzite Mountain, repeats
Its contortions on the down side, joins Shovel Creek
and parallels its path downstream.

Fifteen miles on

this road - about an hour - brings you to the Yellow
Jacket Hanger Station. Three miles father, and over
sixty miles from the nearest city. Is the old town of
Yellow Jacket.

A giant sixty-stamp mill is first in view. '
Water, conducted downhill through a twenty-four**-inch—

diameter conduit, with a one-hundred^fifty-foot head,
provided plenty of power to lift the sixty stamps, each

in turn.

Inside the mill Is a complete smithy.

-/A-

Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N. Weis

Nearby are a number of supply sheds, and

beyond these are a few old residences, and there

the grassy knoll — is the hotelI

on

It Is indeed three

stories high, its upper floor made livable by eighteen

dormers.

In back — the land slopes down — the imposing

wooden structure was just as described, five stories
high I

I stopped by an old cabin that seemed lately
refurbished^! to ask permission to snoop about.

One

of the mining engineers, recently new to the site,

volunteered some information.
Placer gold was found in Yellow Jacket

Creek by Long Wilson in’ 1^69,
but good-sized nuggets.

in to stake claims.

Not just fine color,

Many Leesburg miners moved

Later that year, Nathan Smith

found the mother lode far up the hill north of camp.

It was free gold in quartz, requiring only pulverizing
and panning.

In 1893, materials for the thirty^stamp

mill were packed in by mule train.
stamps were added.

Later, thirty more

The mill is now in disrepair, but

structurally sound and capable of reactivation.
During boom years, I89O to I900, the popula­

tion of Yellow Jacket approached two hundred.

After

1900, mining dropped off, becoming sporadic in the

twenties.

In 1932 mining resumed and the prospects

�looked so good that construction on the hotel was

commenced.
Soon prospects faltered as the veins began

In desperation, the early tailings
/
were remllled. Mining operatlon^Jrlumped further In

to pinch out.

the late thirties, and ceased entirely In 1942.

About

one million dollars In gold had been realized from the
mine.

Now Its tunnels and drifts are being core

drilled In search of suspected deposits of silver,

lead^and copper.

Several miners and their families

have found temporary quarters In two of the old
cabins next to the hotel.
Two of the miners’ kids volunteered to con­
duct a tour of the town.

seven and eleven.

They told me their ages were

That sounded like a good dice score

so I asked If they felt lucky.

Their blank stares

Indicated that I was totally misunderstood.

First on

the agenda was a visit with the pet rabbits.

The

older boy explained, "^hat speckled one Is named
Mr. Bunny."

The younger one added, "^nd the white

one Is named Whitey,"

The third bunny was black, so

I speculated aloud that his name was Blacky.

"No,"

replied the younger one, "we call him Hoppy because
of the way he jumps,"Hl allowed that the names were

Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N. Weis

fitting, and congratulated the two on their originality.

Communications firmly established, we proceeded with
the tour.
Shortly west of the hotel is a badly dilapi­

dated log and clapboard building.

Its function would

still be a mystery, except for the metal Pelton wheel
mounted on heavy timbers at the downhill end of the

Water under great pressure was forced

structure.

against the metal cups of the Pelton wheel, giving

it tremendous rotational speed.

The power developed

was geared down and fed to a small stamp mill.

A

five-»stamp mill ,once operated in Yellow Jacket, and
this little shack must have housed the works.

Circling back up the hill, the boys pointed

out dozens of cabins scattered along the creek and
strung out along the road that heads southwest out
of town.

Many have been used for hunting shacks.

Some are too far gone for safe operation.

A number of

board shacks hidden deep in the shade offered a study
in diverse methods of collapse.

The boys dubbed them

"squashes," "leans," and "bulgers."

Everywhere there were wild snowshoe rabbits.
The youngsters pelted away at them with whatever rocks
were handy.

I mentioned the fact that their pets were
Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N. Weis

close relatives.

Their explanation was wholly rational —

"We ain’t never hit one yet,”

The circle completed, we entered the hotel
for a detailed inspect^^n.

The basement, or first

floor, was about one/thirdjas long as the hotel, and

contained the heating plant, showers, and rudimentary

sanitary facilities.

The next floor was about two-thirds

the length of the hotel and was fitted out as a recrea­

tion hall.

One old pool table is still there, barren

of cloth, its gray slate surface still unbroken.
kitchens are at the back.

The

One huge wood stove has two

ovens, two warmers, and room for sixteen pans or twelve
The boys claimed there were seventy-five

big pots.

rooms, with twenty-six more on the top floor that were
unfinished.

A window count indicated that the estimate

was only slightly exaggerated.
At the front of the hotel, a wooden ladder

served as fire excape.

The rear portion once had a

longer ladder with protective hoops.

For those lodgers

in the center portion, there were knotted ropes tied to

bedsteads.

In a hurry, you could grab the top knot

and leap out the window, then slide down from knot
to knot.

Care had to be taken not to grab the wrong

end of the rope.

In such an event, the unfortunate

Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N, Weis

victim would reach the ground and the end of the rope

at the same horrible moment.

The builder of the hotel must have had a
similar moment of truth when he realized that the mine
was petering out Just as he was finishing the top

floor.
Known to few, and visited by even fewer, the
town of Yellow Jacket remains remote and unchanged.

Little has been written about the site.

Much of Its

charm Is from facts unknown and questions unanswered.

Yellow Jacket, Idaho

�N. Weis

•

* Named in 1864 for two bay horses, the proud

possessions of an itinerant miner, this tiny gold

placer camp was destined to become famous for its

hard-rock silver deposits.
The streams in the area may have been named

by the same unimaginative folk tJaix christened the

camp — Mud Spring, John Gulch, Birch Creek, Wood
Creek, and^of course. Bayhorse Creek,

All drain east­

ward three miles to the Salmon River.

Recently the

-1-

Bayhorse, Idaho

�N. Weis

Salmon has been given a second more romantic name.

Called the "River of No Returnp' in song and movie,
the new designation was quickly adopted by Idahoans.
Claims were staked on the hillsides above

the site of Bayhorse during the early 187O’s.
Beginning in 1877 tunnels were dug at the Riverview,

Bayhorse, Pacific, Ramshom, Skylark^and Keystone
claims.

The Ramshorn was the prime producer.

Mills

and smelters were built, and silver poured forth at

a rate of nearly five hundred thousand dollars per
year.

By I898 ten million dollars in silver and lead

had been mined, milled^and poured into Ingots,

Another

two and a half million dollars was realized when the
mines were reactivated in the 1920*s.

Bayhorse is located eleven miles south of

Challis on U.^, Highway 93, and three and a half miles
west on a good gravel road.
inoperative.

The mines are currently

No current reassessments are being made,

but the presence of a caretaker and the heavy metal
doors on the company buildings attest to the possibility
of future activity.

The caretaker lives in what used

to be the butcher shop.

The next building to the west
overhead.
is the old saloon, with rooms
East of the care­
taker’s home is the old rock commissary.

Originally a

company store, this building was put to many uses.

-2-

Bayhorse, Idaho

�N, Weis

serving as post office, newspaper office, and^lastly,
a powder house.

It was constructed in a craftsmanlike

manner of hard green rook.

Generally considered rare,

the green rock was apparently common in Bayhorse,
for most of the company buildings are of like color
and construction.
Farther east and across the road is a

ramshackle shed totally occupied by a vintage
Chevrolet.

Although all of its tires are flat, the

owner -has taken the precaution of preventing theft
by wrapping numerous turns of clothesline wire about

the car’s body, entrapping the hood, doors^and trunk
lid.

A large number of slide-rock dugouts are
imbedded in the hillside.

Some dugouts, built on

level land, are head high and well covered with ^oil.
Only the sloping entrances reveal their location/1
The caretaker wasn’t too happy to discuss

the history of Bayhorse.

It was Saturday, and many

week'^end vacationers were on their way to the Bayhorse
Lakes^located five miles west of town.

A number of

visitors had already interupted the old-timer’s
A
breakfast. He answered my knock, stood guardedly in

the doorway, and reluctantly answered my questions.
Behind me two station wagons pulled to a dusty halt.
Bayho rs e, Idaho

�N. Weis

Doors flew open and Bayhorse was flooded with dogs,
parents, and little people.

The caretaker retreated^

closing the door firmly behind him.

Shortly^^ he re­

appeared, carrying a box of groceries.

He quietly

loaded it aboard his pickup and took off.

His dog,

apparently used to this procedure, met the truck a
block away, sized up the vehicle’s speed, and made it
over the tailgate in one well-timed running leap.
Just above town, past the Bayhorse mine and

mill, and across the ^reek, are six large charcoal
kilns.

Wood from miles around was charred in these

ovens.

Starved of oxygen, the wood became charcoal,

which in turn was fired to high temperature in a
bellows—fed furnace.

The final separation of silver

from its concentrate depended upon such intense heat.
Two miles above the kilns, the buildings of
the old Ramshorn ;Mlne cling tenaciously to the steep
hillside.

The Ramshom had eight tunnels located

halfway up the mountain slope.

Above the Ramshorn,

and two thousand feet above the creek, are the four
tunnels of the Skylark Mine.

Connecting the two mines

and a loading station at creek level, was a highcapacity tramway.

A few cables still cross the sky

overhead, and surviving towers can be traced up to
skyline.

The lower tramway station at creek level
-4-

Bayhorse, Idaho

�N. Weis

was a combination terminal tower, loading bin^ and

control house.

Cast-iron pulley wheels permitted

the endless cable to angle downward to the tension-

weighted "turn around" wheel.
have been gravity powered.

The tramway seems to

In fact it was perhaps

overpowered by gravity at times.

Braking the down­

ward movement of the bucket“laden cable was probably

the system's primary speed control.
There are three more high—mountain mines

near the old town of Bayhorse, all accessible by
four wheeler shoe leather. The Bayhorse, Idaho, 7J
minute topographic map shows their locations clearly --

right down to the individual switchbacks leading to

each site.
Two days in Bayhorse were hardly long enough

to soak up the scenery.

Another three to explore, two

more^perhaps^to test the trout, and I would have been
almost willing to face civilization.

-5-

Bayhors e, Idaho

�N. Weis

BONANZA^CIT^ IDAHO
The salmon were starting their run, and the
"River of No Return" was lined with fishermen.

Every

campground was full, from Challis to Clayton to
Sunbeam,

The campgrounds located along the three-mile

stretch of river below Sunbeam were particularly
crowded.
I stopped at a favored fishing hole^densely
populated with anglers, to observe the methods used

and perhaps sharein the excitement that comes with
the hooking of a big fish.

Just below the fishermen,

the river was comparatively shallow.

Called "Indian

Riffles," it was a good place to watch for moving

salmon.

Occasionally an observer would shout and

point to a big one rolling in the white water, and the
expectations of the fishermen above would temporarily
rise.

"Fish on," the man hollered, and everyone
his
pulled li^thejLr line^ to give the hooked fish room to
run.

Advice was plentiful.

constituted a crowd.

action.

The fishermen already

Now more moved in to watch the

Seldom hooked deeply, most salmon manage to

throw the hook on their thrashing airborne excursions.
But this angler was talented.
-6-

He "bent" the fish over

Bonanza

Idaho

�N. Weis

at its every attempt to break the surface.

men moved in with large landing nets.

Soon two

The fisherman

led the tired salmon, flat side up, into the closest

net, and the fifteen-pound beauty was lifted safely
to dry land.

A cheer went up, and a dozen anxious

fishermen, their hopes again raised, recast their
lures into the water.

I resumed my trek up the river, paralleling
the course of the migrating salmon.

There was more

excitement in the campgrounds now.

A salmon had been

caught, the run was on — the word was spreadingI

A few minutes later I stopped at the cafe
in Sunbeam for a cup of coffee.

As I entered, a

dozen men hurriedly paid their bills and left.

One

of the few remaining customers turned to me and

volunteered, "Did you hear about the twenty-five
pounder they caught down at Indian Riffles?"

Perhaps word of the gold strikes of a
century ago had spread in the same way.

Seemingly,

^word covered ground faster than a man could travel.
discovered
Gold was, in faot,^f»«»d. at this spot where the .Yankee
Pork joins the Salmon? however, the richest depoi^ts
were found a few miles upstream on Yankee Fork.

-7-

Bonanza

', Idaho

�N. Weis

Heaved to the surface long ago by some

gigantic /gneous belch, veins of gold-bearing ore,

exposed to the air, slowly softened and eroded.

Finely

divided particles of the rich yellow metal traveled for

miles down the turbulent waters of the Yankee Pork.

Excited miners found the color and followed the trail

back upstream, noting carefully the amount of gold
found in each pan.

If suddenly the colors (specks of

gold) were lessened, it meant only that exposed veins

were nearby.

Somewhere above, on the right or left

bank, could be found the mother lode that had spawned

the yellow trace.

W. A. Norton found the first rich outcropping
in 1875.

up $11,500
*

Named-the "Charles Dickens," the lode gave
V; in gold during the first month.

The

richness of the miney and the promise of more deposfbs

in the area were reason enough to build a town.

A

gently sloping spot on the west bank of Yankee Pork

was selected.

Just eight miles north of the present

site of Sunbeam, the new town was centrally located

among the more promising claims.

First there was'"'

just a store and saloon, then in I879 a newspaper,

and by 1880 a population of flj^een hundred.

-8-

Bonanza (Gityl Idaho

�N. Weis

Bonanza City*
/

it was called.

Soon a two-r

story hotel and a dance hall were constructed.
Bonanza's three main streets were quickly filled with
buildings.

In five years the peak was reached — and

the death knell -wm sounded-|when a stamp mill was

built at the General Custer Mine, two miles north,

A

new town sprang up at its side, and Bonanza shrank as
the town of Custer swelled.
It has been quiet in Bonanza for the past

sixty years, except for the dredging operation of the
forties and early fifties.

Wandering up the stream,

the mammoth machine scratched out nearly two million

in gold from seven miles of the Yankee Pork's bed.

The dredge is still there, and now both it and the
town are quiet,

A dozen buildings stand vacant, some quite
sound and recently in repair.

One old shack at the

south end of town is covered with "roll" roofing.

Long thin sheets of galvanized iron are haphazardly
attached to the double log roof.

Winds have picked

up the loose ends of some of the metal strips and

rolled them up in awkward curves,

*
Bed
^
prings

lean

against an outside wall, while inside, a low^wooden^

boxed-ln area is filled with staraw,,

The walls are

papered with old "photogravures," some dated 1922,
-9-

*See Custer for map information.

Bonanza (Cit:^, Idaho

�N. Weis

In the center of town a number of buildings

stand In a neat row, connected at their fronts by a
rotting wooden boardwalk.

One of these structures

displays evidence of laborious repair, designed to

prevent the unwanted ingress of winter's Icy blast.
Where the plaster chinking was cracked and loose,

flattened tin cans were tacked on in windproof over­
lapping rows.

Across the street a stout but

windowless home displays a copper—sheeted roof.

Originally a simple log structure. It has been
enlarged with clapboard additions.

Slanted shed

roofs extend In three directions, giving the old

house a dignified appearance, however accidental.

To the north, an imposing peak dominates
the^kyllne.

Named "Bald Mountain," Its barren^

rounded top gives It the appearance of age.

It seems

to look down, with a compassion born of like circum­

stance, upon the elderly homes and deserted streets
of Bonanza City,

-10-

Bonanza (GitW, Idaho

�N. Weis

CUSTER, IDAHO
In 1876, just one year after the discovery

of the Charles Dickens Lode near the site of Bonanza,
three prospectors, Baxter, Dodge^and McKein, located

a vein of greater promise.

Named the "General Custer,"

it lasted about as long, and expired with the same

glory as its colorful namesake.
No exploratory work was needed since the

vein was long, thlckjand exposed.

Enough ore was in

sight to warrant construction of a mill.

Four years

of contested claims and litigation ensued. In 1879
a California combine bought up the primary claims,

including the "General Custer" and the nearby "Unknown"
and started construction of a mill.

The metal wheels,

shafts^and stamps were hauled in by paclT^rain.

The

thlrty'*stamp mill completed, processing of ore

commenced in 1880,
from Bonanza.

Mill workers and miners moved in

Some eVen moved entire homes up the

two-mlle stretch of nearly level road.

The first year, more than one million dollars

was realized from the General Custer Mine.

By 1886,

Custer had grown to nearly thirty-five hundred, but
the inevitable bad news was quietly spreading.

The

ore was reducing in grade, containing less gold per ton.

-11-

Custer, Idaho

�N. Weis

The owners (or creditors) of the General Custer and
the Charles Dickens unloaded their properties on some

willing British buyers, who in turn capitalized the

operation with a stock issue.

The new company lasted

until 1892, its collapse spelling the end of the first
lode-mining boom.

Of the thirteen million dollars in

gold and silver taken from the Yankee Fork fllnes,
the General Custer had been responsible for seven

million dollars.
Three years later, a new vein was found near

the old Custer tunnels.

Dubbed the "Lucky Boy," it

released another million dollar^ worth of gold in

nine years.

As the mine deepened, the cost of hoisting

out the ore rose, and in 190^ the Lucky Boy was forced

to close down.

The same year a new find on Jordan

Greek resulted in formation of the Sunbeam Company,
and subsequent construction of a new mill.

Its rich

ores petered out during enlargement of facilities, and

in 1911 the Sunbeam Company also failed.

The town of

Custer, already largely depopulated, quickly became
a ghost.
The old schoolhouse stands lonely in a small

cleaj^g at the north edge of town, its metal-coated
hip-/roof offering stubborn protection.
cupola are gone.

The bell and

Scars above the door show their
-12-

Custer, Idaho

�N, Weis

earlier presence.

The slate|3oards and school seats

have been removed.

In their place are the tools and

treasures that marked the greatness of Custer's
yesterday.

The old schoolhouse Is now one of the

finest mlnlng.camp museums In the country.

There Is

an abundance of old gold rockers, wheelbarrows, hand
tools, skips (ore hoist buckets), along with a variety

of early household appliances.

The doctor's house and the old McKensle
residence stand together, the lone remnants of a row

of buildings that once crowded the main street of
Custer,

Its porch sagging and held static by temporary

supports, the old doc's house shows signs of being
used later as a community store.

Lettering over the

porch roof Is visible, but not readable.

Apparently

as an afterthought, a heater and stovepipe were added,
the stovepipe extending through the transom above the

old double doors.

The stovepipe rises high above

the ridge of the roof, and Is thoughtfully capped

with an old pot, effectively shutting off one means
of access favored by enterprising rodents.

Nothing but an ore bln Is left at the site
Qf the General Custer Mill, but nearby, an old
deserted home shows a hint of finery.

Fancied up

with embossed galvanized sheets, and papered with

-13-

¥

�N. Weis

Intricately patterned oilcloth, It probably was

once the home of a top company official,
I would have liked to explore the hillsides

near Custer and Bonanza, but the maps detailing the
area had disappeared.

It had been windy, and I had

left the truck windows open.

blown away.

Assuredly, the maps had

Three weeks later, and some six hundred

miles removed from the site, I found them crumpled
and creased, cowering In the crevasse of the front

seat.

Belated Inspection showed a number of locations

I should have visited, such as The Lucky Boy Camp,

about three air miles east of Bonanza.

The camp has

eleven tunnels, thirteen shafts, and sixteen buildings

Indicated on the map.

A half mile up Jordan Creek

are the tunnel? of the Charles Dickens, and four
miles f|irther, the buildings of the Sunbeam and Montana
/Mines.

All are clearly shown on the ?! minute Sunbeam

and Custer, Idaho, topographic maps, along with

numerous prospect sites and unidentified deserted
buildings.

The road past the Sunbeam Mine follows

Jordan Creek, switchbacks over Loon Creek Summit,
then runs down the west fork of Mayfield Creek to the

old placer camps on Loon Creek.

It was over this

pass, known for Its deep and treacherous snows.

Custer, Idaho

�N, Weis

that many prospectors traveled on their quest for
gold on the Yankee Pork.

Some day I will travel

that path, with maps firmly in hand.

Custer, Idaho

�N. Weis

SAWTOOTH CITY, IDAHO
The old log building leans heavily to the

side, relying gratefully upon the strength of a sturdy
pine that has grown closely by its flank,

A pole is

wedged against the front of the aged structure.

Downward is the only direction left to this final
surviving remnant of Sawtooth City,

The cabin was

built about 1880, when the tree alongside was yet to

be se^e^

Once a busy blacksmith's shop at the east

end of^maln street, its double doors were originally

wide enough to admit team and wagon.

The door was

narrowed to normal width at the convenience of some

later resident,

A few more cheerless ruins are

sprinkled along the main thoroughfare, their logs
slanting to a peak at resistant corners.

are bleached and cracked.

The logs

Soft to the finger, they

cannot last for long.

\9

Sawtooth City* is just a few miles west of

U.S, Highway 93,

A well-signed road exits to the west

about one mile south of the Alturas Lake Road,

Heading

up Beaver Creek, it is Joined in two miles by a road

coming in from the left.

Sawtooth City's cemetery

is high on a barren

north of the junction.

The

townsite is a mile or so farther up Beaver Creek.
*
*See Vienna for map information*

Sawtooth City, Idaho

�N, Weis

Sawtooth was once a lively town, with a

population approaching one thousand.

In 1882 its two

interjecting streets held twenty-five homes, three
saloons, two eating houses, three stores, a livery,
an assay office, a meat market, and of course^ the
sturdy log smithy.
In 1879, ruby silver had been spotted in

quartz outcrops by Levi Smiley,

Within two years nine

rich veins of the same antlmonial silver had been found

and claimed.

One of the more active mines was the

Pilgrim, with its 1^200—foot tunnel and ores running
as rich as 5000 ounces■of silver per.ton.

The Silver

King, two miles up Beaver Creek, was the most productive
and the most persistently active. It was a small town
by Itself, complete with bunkhouse and mill.
Still sporadically active, the Silver King

has suffered through a number of ownerships, setback^
and disasters,

A fire in 1891 destroyed its shaft work,

hoist house, and air and water pumps.

Although the

Silver King endured, its limited production was not
enough to keep Sawtooth City alive.

Less than ten

years after it was founded, the town was deserted, and
the towering peaks of the Sawtooth Range assumed silent

guardianship.

Sawtooth City, Idaho

�N. Weis

VIENNA, IDAHO
Just over the hill and up Smiley Canyon,

the sprawling camp called "Vienna" was a short eight
miles by stage from its sister community of Sawtooth
City.

Relations between the two towns were strained,

and at times were near the feuding point.

Each had

its own stage line making dally runs between the two

towns.

Passengers sat lightly in their seats whenever
The encounters were mostly verbal,

rival coaches met.

punctuated with an occasional whiplash aimed at the

opposition’s horses.

The two towns were remarkably similar.

Each

had its own mill, and a nearly eqixal number of mi nag,

Sawtooth City had its Silver King Mine, and Vienna had
its Vienna Mine.

Both were discovered by the Smiley

group that explored the area in 1879.

Vienna developed

a year or two behind Sawtooth, but grew to several times
its size.

In 1882 Vienna had three stores, fourteen

saloons, six eateries, a small one-man furniture factory,
and a newspaper with two hundred supporters.

Flagged

//the Vienna Reporter,^ it sold two hundred subscriptions
for $1.50 each.

Within five months the editor sold out

to the /Ketchum Keystone,

its prime rival.

Like

Sawtooth, Vienna’s life was short,, and by 1914 nearly
all of its two hundred buildings had been moved or

-tg-

Vienna, Idaho

�N. Weis

Only a few log structures were left

tom down.
undisturbed.

The gravel road to Vienna Is well surfaced,
but difficult to locate.

Driving south

Highway

93, the first road to the right, short of Smiley

Creek, leads crookedly to the Vienna Road.

The

turnoff is about four miles i'outh of the Alturas Lake

Road.

The Alturas Lake, Marshal Peak and Frenchman

Greek, Idaho,

minute topographic maps show the

routes in to Sawtooth City and Vienna, and also

Indicate the locations of the many mines in the area.
The elght-mile drive to the site of Vienna
is of slngularfbeauty. Lined with lodgepole pines for

much of the way, the road frequently breaks out into
small park like openings, often occupied by mule deer.
Jagged tops of the Sawtooth Range break the horizon,

closing in as the valley narrows.

Vienna occupies the

last wide spot, just beyond the second crossing of

Smiley Creek.

The surviving traces of Vienna are sprinkled
downstream along the north bank.

Hidden among the trees

are numerous old remnants of civilization, much like
those of Sawtooth City.

Long dead, the two cities

still retain their twinship,

-Zf-

Vienna, Idaho

�N, Weis

Some cabins are built of logs hewn on all
four sides.

Such fancy construction is seldom found

in old mining camps.

One log structure has been

reduced to a rectangular outline, low on the ground,

with a dooryframe projecting nearly vertical.

A dead

tree stands nearby, its whitened limbs gnarled and
randomly twisted.
Shortly upstream and adjacent to the road

are the foundations of an old mill. One'half mile
CL
farther, the road branches. The left branch leads to
the old Vienna Mine,

The right fork goes a short

distance and dead ends at a ford that has been
Inundated by a mud flow.

The area above is soupy from

spring water, and has caused fine sucking mud and gravel

to roll slowly downhill.

hazardous.

In this area, even walking is

A few hundred yards above the flow are the

remains of the Webfoot Mine,.

Appropriately named, the

most reliable footing was underground.

number of structures.

The mine has a

A few are intact — an old smithy^

and a large structure of uncertain use.

The large

building was once two stories high, with a full

basement underneath.

Too collapsed to permit full

exploration, it seemed from the outside to have been
a dormitory.

I could find no shafts or tunnels.
Vienna, Idaho

�N. Weis

although the building's wreckage could easily

have hidden them.

At the uphill end was a lean-to,

and next to it a small built-in outhouse with chimney^
style vapor vent.

Approximately one-half mile uphill from the
Webfoot is the old Vienna shaft.

Presently^ it is

being reworked by the Heinecke Company.

They are

under contract to cut a thlrteen-hundred-foot tunnel
and run twenty-five hundred feet of side drifts.

Should

these workings uncover the expected veins, a new mill

eK'l

will be built and the ore reduced to concentrate, which
will be' sent outrt?~be~^««fei^ed-. Tests have shown silver
lead, zinc^, and gold to be present.

Past activities of

the Vienna have produced over one million dollars in
silver and gold.

With a little luck, the Vienna may exceed
the Silver King of rival Sawtooth City.

The towns no

longer vie for leadership, but their two leading mines
carry out the feud like a pair of boxers, dead on their

feet +4 but still swinging.

Vienna, Idaho

�N. Weis

* Greyer than t^^laska Klondike I

than the California Rush of •491/

Richer

The elghteen-square-.^

mile area called Boise Basin, surrounding the town of

Idaho City, is said to have delivered two hundred fifty
A
niilllon dollars in gold. So state the members of the
Idaho City Historical Foundation.

Other historians

have estimated a lesser amount, but all agree that

square mile for square mile, the placers of the ^asin
were the richest found in North America,

-1-

Idaho City, Idaho

�N. Weis

Located at the junction of Mores Creek and
Slk Greek, and bounded on threc/sides by the gulches

named Slaughterhouse, Walla Walla, and Warm Springs,

the boom town of Idaho City stretched for nearly four
miles along the gold-rich streams.
Established in 1862^ and named Bannock, it
grew to six thousand souls the first year. In 1864 the
settlement
territorial legislature incorporated the^tewn, as Idaho

City.

For twenty years it was the largest town in the

territory.

Once there were over ten thousand residents

(some estimates run as high as thirty thousand) in the
city, half of them Oriental,

The lure of new-found

gold on Loon Creek caused the town to shrink a bit in

the 187O’s, but hard-rock mining and dredging sustained
Idaho City
^tho-"town, until 1942, when gold production was curtailed
by the pdvernment.
In 1968, the sign at the edge of town read
pop 188,

Residents claim only one hundred^twenty-two

live year round in Idaho City -- and most of those are

forest rangers or loggers.

A few old-timers, still actively mining, add
to the town’s atmosphere.

Hollow footsteps resound as

bearded "hard rockers" saunter down the wooden boardp'

walks of Main Street.

The walks are so thoroughly
-2-

Idaho City, Idaho

�used, especially around the old courthouse, that the

thick planks have "been worn thin.

High spots caused

hy the resistance of nails and knots have left the

walk bumpy to the point that strangers find it awkward
to maintain a steady course.
Forty-six saloons once sold the products of
Idaho City's four breweries.

fancy billiard rooms.

Five of the saloons had

Only one of the hard liquor

dispensaries has survived.

Originally called the

"Miners' Exchange Saloon," it has been renamed, but
continues to pedate the same reliable merchandise.

Saloons are generally fruitful places to gather informa
tlon.

Olose-lipped old-timers are often more talkative

under the influence of minor amounts of "Tongue oil."

I entered the old saloon intending to quaff
a short salute to the rich history of Idaho City, but

the maps that I had brought in with me caused a delay

in plans.

Before I realized it, the maps were pulled

from my grasp and spread all over the bar.

Miners

and loggers alike were pointing out places of interest.
minute maps permits even

The detail present in the

the most remote shack or tunnel to be located.
Idaho City, Idaho,

The

minute topographic map covers the

area surrounding the town.

I mentioned I was looking

for ghost towns — especially the little-known sites.
-3-

Idaho City, Idaho

�N. Weis

"There, that’s the Comeback Mine.

to go there.

thing.

You ought

They got a bunkhouse — big two-story

Used to be a bunch of people living there."

Another miner chimed in.
one of the tunnels up there.

"Yeah, we’re workin’

Come on up anytime.

If

we’re not around, just flip the switch at the tunnel
and we’ll see the lights flicker.

Be glad to show

you the place."
The dozen helpful map enthusiasts concluded

that I should visit the Bellshazzar, the Comeback, and
the Golden Age ^amps.

Of course, I was reminded, Idaho

City and Placerville were too big and too interesting

to be l^ored.

Finally, after nearly an hour, the

maps were folded, and the glorious past of Idaho City

was dutifully honored.
The morning’s early light shone brightly on

the old Idaho World Building, where the territory's
leading paper was published.

A big black Labrador

Retriever insisted on being in every picture I took.

It was a quiet and peaceful scene.

so.

It wasn’t always

In 1863 the paper reported:

^’Several parties' were found in the streets
on Tuesday morning.

J

Some with fractured

skulls? some with-bunged eyes and swollen
-faces, indicating very clearly that there

Idaho City,' Idaho

�N. Weis

had been a muss somewhere during the

night.

Blood was freely sprinkled about

the town on woodpiles and sidewalks.

As

the puddles of blood were distributed

over a large district, it was impossible
to locate the fight

Idaho City had problems concerning adequate

law enforcement.

The vigilante movement which spread

througlijout the West is said to have originated here.

Seldom did vigilantes apprehend a culprit without
quickly deciding his guilt and applying the quick justice

of the rope.

For those whose guilt was less than

strongly_suspect, there was a sturdy jail for temporary

durance.

Acclaimed the first territorial penitentiary,

the convincingly stout building has easily survived to

the present.

Although moved from its initial site, it

is otherwise little changed.

The walls of the twenty—by-,

twenty-four stronghold are constructed of squared logs,
twelve inches on a side, and lined with one-inch boards
nailed every three Inches in all directions, with old-^

fashioned square nails.

Inside partitions, nearly as

rugged, are built of four-inch timbers sandwiched be­

tween one-inch boards.

Deeply carved over one of the

cell doors are the words "PRIVET ROOM."

Below this

sign, statements of a more ribald nature stand for all
-5-

Idaho City, Idaho

�N. Weis

to read.

One dirty ditty leaves little doubt concerning

one prisoner's opinion of Judge Bear's moral character.
In spite of the two disastrous fires that

destroyed much of the original Idaho City, there are

still dozens of old buildings that are worthy of
Inspection,

The Masonic Hall with Its white front and

covered stairway Is one of the finest.

Propped on

both sides and through-bolted with twenty-four—foolfe
rods, It appears crippled, but well braced.

Built In

1865, It looks able to function for another century.
Just west of the center of town, and up the
to the
'
hlll^north. Boot Hill Cemetery overlooks the modern

airstrip used by local smoke jumpers.

Far more bodies

rest atop this hill than are ever found moving along

the streets below.

Many of the graves are enclosed

with wooden fences, elaborately constructed.

They now

show the sad neglect of time and the unemotional en­
croachment of nature.

Massive trees grow from forgotten

graves, crowding headboards ruthlessly aside, yet — In

return — creating beauty from the bitter soil of death.
Life races on, and the log—truck drivers

still wheel their rigs downhill as If the Reaper were
close behind and gaining.
One driver In Idaho City took offense at

my suggestion that loggers by nature were Insane and
-6-

Idaho City, Idaho

�N. Weis

bent on self-destruction.

With jaw muscles tight,

he explained that it took three loads a day to make
a living, and that too much slowing down wore the
brake shoes out.

"Besides that," he stated, "I

enjoy canning that old semi down the road."

Then,

eyebrows lowered, he turned and glared at me with

his good eye, while his off eye burned a hole in
the ceiling.

-7-

Idaho City, Idaho

�N, Weis

PLACERVILLE, IDAHO
Grassy rolling hills, bounded by heavy stands

of pine, form an Idyllic setting for the quiet town of

Placerville.

On the west bank of a stream carrying

the unlikely name of "Woof Creek," the site overlooks
the rich placer beds of Ophir Creek and Mud Plat.

The Placerville, Idaho,

minute ajajp

Indicates that the town was Incorporated as a square,

one full mile on a side.

At Its largest, with a

population of five thousand, the town occupied only
a fraction of Its assigned area, but Its boundaries
Included several placer mines which may have alleviated

the tax burden.
Like a small midwestern town, Placerville

was planned around a city park, or plaza.

The park

was surrounded by business places, with residences

forming the perimeter.
A shy old gentleman living just off the
plaza was tickled to have someone to visit with.

"It's

pretty lonely here," he told me, "but that's the way I

like It."
We looked over the surviving business places,

especially the old Magnolia Saloon, once the proudest

of the town's three drinking parlors.

Built In I9OO,

the Magnolia had a full^wldth front porch with a

-8-

Placervllle, Idaho

�N. Weis

built-in well.

Like a drinking fountain might

function today, the well was a popular gathering spot

on hot summer days.

The second floor of the saloon

was finished, but never used.
The old-timer watched me write down notes

as he talked.

He asked me not to use his name, and

declined to have his picture taken.

Perhaps he had

a past that was better forgotten.
Across the street, the Boise Basin Mercantile
stood empty and tightly shuttered.

"See those metal doors and them shutters?

That's all that saved the old store.

Had a fire here

in --

must have been thirty-one, burned a lot of the

town.

Big forest fira^^urned up the whole town of

Quartzburg over west a inile."
The store had a metal roofj^ and plastered
walls.

I speculated that everyone fled town during

the fire.

"No,

In fact some men stayed in the old

got klnda tense when the ca'trldges next to
the wall started goln’ off.’!^

The brick butcheijshop next to the mercantile
survived rather accidentally.

The roof burned, but the

building proper was saved due to the twelve-inch layer
-9-

Placervllle, Idaho

�N. Weis

of dirt that had been placed in the celling as

insulation.
One store is still in operation, and has been
since 18?^, twelve years after the town was founded.

One can find a little bit of most anything within its

dim Interior.

A number of fine old homes are scattered
about town, some with gingerbread eaves, others with

rock wall terraces, showing past pride and recent
neglect.

The Emmanuel Episcopal Church displays some

of the early glory with its arched shingle-covered
Close Inspection shows that the shingles were

eaves.

patterned? 'Ih-ifour subtle ways and tacked in rows to
__

...

•

—■

. . -

..

form a design balanced equally on the right and left.

A few new vacation homes are springing up.
Impertinent A-frames in shiny colors Insult the quiet

dignity of the unpainted derelicts that stand
magnificent in the town of Placerville.

-10-

Placervllle, Idaho

�N. Weis

GOMBBACK MINING GAMP, IDAHO

Tracking down old mining camps can be
exciting, rewarding^and disgusting.

The road leading

to the Belshazzar was gated and locked.

proclaimed the dangers of trespass.

Bold signs

The Mayflower

Mine had been bought up and converted to vacation

homes.

The Richland never was much, and now was even

less.

The Gomeback Gamp was as different as it was
hard to reach.

Between Idaho Glty and Placerville,

at a junction called New Gentervllle, a gravel road

extends northward along Grimes Greek.

Three miles

from the junction is the town of Gentervllle, and
five miles farther, are the few remaining buildings

of Pioneervllle, the first town to spring up in Boise
Basin.

It was known for a time

Hog’em,^'aft er

the early settlers that hogged the best claims.

Two

miles farther north at the second gulch, a "road"

branches to the right.

Narrow, washed out, and over***

hung with brush,y the mlle-long trail to Gomeback is
best suited to jeeps and horses.
At the first switchback, a small flat area

is occupied by a bachelor's shack, a family residence,
machine shop, chicken house, and an old shed with an

excavated grease pit.

At the upHiill side, mine

-11Gomeback Mining Gamp, Idaho

�N, Weis

dumps encroach upon the already Crowded flat.

Above,

at the second switchback, a tunnel entrance is [capped

with a combination machine and tool shed.

A long

covered trackw;ay braced with logs extends several
hundred feet to the end of the mine dump.

Recalling

the Invitation offered by the miners back in Idaho

City, I began a search for the light switch I was
to flick as a signal of my arrival.

No switch was

evident, and the tunnel didn't look recently used.

High above was another dump.

currently used tunnel was there.

Perhaps the

I walked up to the

"third level" and found another tunnel which also
api^ared Inactive.

Next to it, however, was a

dilapidated two-story bunkhouse with built-in cook*^
shack.

Alongside was an old miner's shack, complete

with barking dog.

Above were more tunnels, but no

switches, and no sign of life.

Louis Truger, now living in Centerville,
was a part owner of the Comeback from I931 until

recently.

He stated that over $679,000jBi in gold

had been taken from the tunnels.

During 1940 and

1941, an especially rich kidney, or pocket, was
uncovered.

It yielded nearly $200,000488 in gold.

During the heyday at the Comeback, twenty-five

Comeback Minine Camp, Idaho

�N. Weis

people stayed on the site, leaving only on weekends

to "raise a little hell” In Idaho City.
The mine was found In 192^ by a logger named

Louis Palnlch, who spotted rich mineralization In the
«311 exposed by an uprooted tree.

He took a sample

and planned — If It assayed rich — to come back.
It was, and he did.

He also named the mine.

On my way down the hill I noticed the tire

tracks I had made coming up.

In places, they were

within Inches of the steep drop-off.

Playing It

safe, I crowded the brush-covered "up" side, and
promptly collapsed the right mirror and sheared off

the radio antenna.

I don’t plan to "Comeback."
If you plan to visit the site, drive a
narrow vehicle and take along the Ploneervllle,

minute and Garden Valley, Idaho, 15 minute topographic
maps.

-13-

Gomeback Mining Camp,

ho

�N. Weis

GOLDEN AGS GAMP, IDAHO

Placer gold was found along Grimes Greek in
1862.

Most of the early miners chose to separate the

fine gold laboriously from its attendant sand and

gravel.

Others, spurning the assurance of a small

poke, gambled for higher stakes.

Somewhere upstream

would be the mother lode.

In classic style, the placers played out as

the hard-f'ock mines were discovered and developed.
The Gomeback, Missouri, Oro, and the Golden Age mines

all tapped residual lodes that had enriched Grimes
Greek.
A man named Wells found the richest ore, just

four miles north of Ploneervllle.

Named the Golden Age,

the claim eventually became the property of a large
Spokane outfit.

The ore seemed to get richer with

depth, and soon two mills, a dozen homes, two bunkhouses,

a recreation hall, and a two-story hotel were built.

Seventy-five men worked here during the boom years of

the early 1900*s.

A schoolhouse was constructed nearby.

Named the "Diana School," it served all the kids of the
mining camp.

'A small outhouse stands behind, and above

its narrow door, an overlarge sign states*fl"MAIN SNTSANGS."

The G-^jTden Valley, Idaho, 15 minute map shows the
locations of both the school and mining camp.

-14-

Golden Age Gamp, Idaho

�N. Weis

An eight-one-year-old former miner named

A

Hawkins is now the caretaker.

He and his wife live in

one of the residences at the camp.

We toured the

empty camp, carefully inspecting the larger buildings.
The second story of the hotel contained the main

company offices, and a large dancehall.

The men were

paid three dollars a day, with one dollar per day

deducted for room and board.

Saturday was pay^^ay,

and Saturday night was for dancing.

The big bosses

could sit in their offices and watch benevolently over
their cavorting employees.

The downstairs portion of

the hotel contained a dining hall, a small company

store, a few rooms and a large kitchen with built-in
woodshed.

A huge Arcadian range filled one end of

the kitchen.

A flfty-,gall^n drum was adapted as a

side-arm heater, with coils extending into and around
the old stove.
For a while the mills turned out thirty-five
hundred dollars in gold per day.

The deep vein made

removal of ore difficult, and when the shaft went

below creek level, the water flooded in.

The cost

of lifting and processing the ore, combined with the

added expense of pumping the water, more than equaled
the value of the gold.

The mine shut down.

Before

long, both mlills and some of the camp structures

burned to the ground.
Golden Age Camp, Idaho

�N. Weis

No one knows how much gold 1| left in the

hill.

It is under water.

Butbas Hawkins stated,

"Gold doesn’t dissolve, you know,"

-UGolden Age WMe Camp, Idaho

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                    <text>WYOMING

,

�N. Weis

SOUTH PASS CITY, WYOMING
Gold seekers settled on Willow Greek In
1867.

The camp soon became a town, and the town

became the largest in the State.

Named South Pass

Within eighteen months, its

City, it grew quickly.

What should have

population exceeded two thousand.

been a curly-haired, short-tempered saloon town,

became^instead, a family community.

Those miners

with wives and children, seeking a safe home, chose

this town rather than Atlantic City, located five

miles east.

The women were quick to organize and

preserve this precious quality.

Some say organiza­

tion was haistened by the several long meetings held
during the Indian raids.

Hostiles frequently

threataned the town, driving off the stock and

stealing whatever was left unguarded.

During the

raids, the women and children were locked in a
cave/llke recess behind the wine celler owned by a

local merchant.
iron door.

The celler was protected by a stout

Many a decision was made in the darkness

of this hideaway.

Under less frightening circumstances, the
women organized a club, held numerous meetings^and
discussed women’s rights.

Mrs. Esther Hobart Morris,

-8-

South Pass City, Wyoming

�N. Weis

who came to South Pass in 1869, was a strong advocate

of women’s right to vote.

That year, encouraged by

the women club members, Mr. William Bright drafted
a bill giving equal suffrage to women.

was introduced and passed!

The bill

Shortly after, Mrs. Esther

Hobart Morris was appointed j^ustice of the ^eace.
Many heated cases were accorded a decision by the
good lady.

None of them w^e overruled by a higher

court.

However quiet. South Pass City was still
a mining town.

Its Main Street was crowded with

false—fronted buildings, nearly every other one a
saloon.

Main Street was nearly a half mile long.

The town had the first bank in the area, a well-*

organized school system, a newspaper, and a regular

stage service.
The Carissa Lode, the richest deposit in

the area, poured forth its wealth, and the town
prospered.

A few other mines in the area were

producing, like the Franklin, the Shields, and the

Jim Crow Hoosier Boy, but the Carissa was the big

one, and when its vein pinched out, the life of the
town began to flicker.

By 1880, South Pass City

Many buildings were moved
has
away, but each of those remaining ^laase a story to tell.

was nearly deserted.

-9-

South Pass City, Wyoming

�N. Weis

The jail Is still in fine shape,the cell
doors swinging freely.

It is clearly evident why

it was later called "the cooler."

Even the town

dog likes to sleep here on hot summer days.

Next

to the jail is the old hat shop, later converted to
a saloon.

The Smith Sherlock store has been recently

converted to a museum.

The town is undergoing a

continuing process of restoration.

South Pass City is a quiet place in the

summer, and completely deserted each winter.

A

lonely graveyard overlooks &lt;
the town from the south.
On the northern hill, the Carissa Mine patiently

waits reactivation,

A single caretaker watches over

the massive investment.

Perhaps a new and cheaper

way to extract the gold will be found, and the

giant will stir to life again.

-10-

South Pass City, Wyoming

i--

�N. Weis

THE DUNCAN, WYOMING

Prom Atlantic City, an excellent gravel

road winds steeply up Mill Hill, levels off and
heads southeast.

At the crest, one mile south of

town, a dirt road branches to the right.

Traveling

this road westward, the Mary Ellen sine comes
quickly into view.

Then, within a mile of the

turnoff, "The Duncan" becomes visible.

Both mines

are on the right side of the road, and are on the
Atlantic City, Wyoming, 7| minute topographic map.
The first rich strike was made here in

1911.

In three years, forty thousand dollars'^worth

of ore was removed.

During those three years, fifteen

hundred feet of underground tunnels and shafts were

completed, and a Nissen stamp mill and amalgamator
were installed. The outfit was capable of extracting
o
■sfcsEty per^^ent of the gold. In 191^ the operation

ran into financial trouble, and the mine closed down.
Thirty-two years later, new owners gave it

another try.

A new ball mill, classifier, and several

agitator tanks were obtained.

Eight floatation cells

and a concentrator, or shaker table, were installed.

Just twelve tons of ore were processed that year.

valued at a total of about two thousand dollars.
-19-

The Duncan, Wyoming

�N, Weis

In 1956, the mine underwent another hopeful spurt of
activity, with three thousand tons shipped at about

During its busiest years,

twelve dollars per ton.

"The Duncan" rivaled in size the towns of Atlantic

City and Miners Delight.

Several dozen cabins, a

small store, and a two-story/dormitory occupied

most of the level area at the top of the hill.

The

mine buildings cover the hillside for hundreds of

feet, ending in another smattering of buildings.
Now everything is shuttered and.locked,

awaiting a rise in the price of gold.

are vacant.

The houses

The dormitory, with its outside stairs,

is quiet, and heavy boots no longer threaten the

quick nap of the man on the "off shift."

-20-

The Duncan, Wyoming

�N. Weis

LSWISTON, WYOMING
"Lewiston?

Never heard of It I"

What Lewiston?

In Wyoming?

But the entire population of

Atlantic City knew about the town — all four of them.

In fact, one of them used to live there I

Good old Sam

Vjestlc — and he promptly volunteered to ride along
on .a visit to the town~slte.

Was there anything

left, as the map Indicated — or was It all gone, as
some historians claimed?

"Veil, dere’s a store, und a llffery, und

some mines dere," volunteered Sam.
We drove south out of Atlantic City, up

Mill Hill, past The Duncan turnoff, and headed east
on a good gravel road.

About eight miles out of town,

Sam called for an abrupt turn to the right.

Here on

the banks of Rock Creek, rested a monument - a
bronze slab cemented to a mound of rock.

Inscribed

on the plaque Is a story of nearly unequaled tragedy.
^WILLIE'S HANDCART COMPANY

Captain James C. Willie’s Handcart Company

of Mormon Emigrants on the way to Utah,
greatly exhausted by the deep snows of an
early winter and suffering from lack of
food and clothing had assembled here for

-21-

Lewiston, Wyoming

�N. Weis

reorganization by relief parties from
Utah about the end of October 1865.
Thirteen persons were frozen to death
during a single night and were burled

here in one grave.

Two otAers died the

next day and were buried nearby.

Of the

company of 40^ persons 77 perished before

help arrived.

The survivors reached Salt

Lake November 9 1856.X

The South Pass was indeed treacherous I

It was quite

clear,^w why Pacific Springs was called "Celebration

City."
About four miles fj|lrther east we took a fork
to the left, forded Strawberry Creek, and drove into

the town of Lewiston,

The Radium Springs, Wyoming,

7i minute topographic map shows most of the important
sites in fine detail.

Part of this map is reproduced

in the introduction.

Lewiston isn’t very big — just two buildings
with a street between.

false front and all.

On the left was the old store,

On the right was the llver^’,

its interlocking logs holding it firmly plumb with

the world.

The Store had five rooms and showed signs

of frequent haphazard expansion.

Its sod roof,

supported by large split logs, had collapsed in a
-22-

Lewiston, Wyoming

�N. Weis

number of places.

The most recent occupants had

been sheep and cattle.

Gattie enjoy scratching

themselves by rubbing against door jambs, and once

the door is knocked off, a building comes down
quickly.

The Lewiston Store will not stand for

long.
The livery looked like it would photograph

best from the rear.

The view through the finder

showed that I was a bit too close.
few feet and stopped.

I b^ed up a

Not far enough yet.

I backed

up a few feet more, focused the camera, and took the

picture.

Behind me I could hear the clatter of

pebbles falling, bouncing, and fading into faint

echoes.

I had basked up to the very brink of a

deep vertical mine shaft.

I circled back another

dozen feet and photographed the livery, with the
site of my stupidity in the foreground.
This town once had more than twenty-five

buildings, including four saloons, which is a pretty
low "sin percentage," as mining towns go.

It had

several mines right in town, the most famous of

which was the Bullion Shaft.

Pounded in 1879,

Lewiston was the center of the "new discovery."

Much salting and selling was carried out.

-23-

Each

Lewiston, Wyoming

�N. Weis

"sucker" salted in turn, and made money selling

to the next huyer.

One-half mile south of town are the
remains of the Hidden Hand mine.
is the Iron Duke Shaft.

Forty feet away

I speculated that two

shafts this close had to lead to the same vein.
Sam Vjestic added "dey haf to lead to a good fight
when da tunnels meet, toot

Sam knew what he was

talking about, for he spent several years hogging

out the rock in order to form those shafts I

One-half mile to the north is the Good
Hope Mine.

This building is in a most artistic

state of disrepair.

As its lower side walls

collapsed, its stout inner structure guided the
outer portions downward to rest sedately, with a

dignified list to port.

Like a crippled queen

of the oceans, it rides the windswept plains,
valiantly resisting the inevitable.

A family of wildcats lives in the old
relic.

They have been seen standing on the peak

of the gallows frame, and no doubt have found some
o
crevi/Se suitable for a den. More hazardous than

the wildcats)^ is the horizontal tunnel running
out from the building.

In places the tunnel is

within a foot or two of the surface.

-24-

Your weight

Lewiston, Wyoming

�N. Weis

might collapse It,

Your car most certainly would

break through.

It had been a long day, and we were tired.
The return trip was hot, dryland dusty.

As we

neared Atlantic City, I suggested we stop for a
cooling drink at Glessler's Saloon.
lit up.

"Yah, I haf a coke."

Sam’s eyes

Realizing a coke

might be pretty tame stuff for a tough old miner
like Sam, I suggested something with more substance.

"Naw," replied Sam.

"I swear off dat hard stuff

ever since I get mad back In ^thirty-eight,"

-25Lewlston, Wyoming

�N. Weis

WYOMING A3BA 2
Thi-3-Uni-^ ■ft4Dntiq1'ns a.pproximately 3^^00-wmtg-^

WYOMING

Union pacific was driving its rails west.
The mountains of eastern Wyoming had been breached.

West of Laramie, the land leveled out to plains and
high desert, permitting more rapid progress, but the

flat land was Indian land, and the Indians resented

the intrusion.
Port Steele was established in 1868 to
protect the Overland Stage Line and the Union Pacific

-1-

Port Steele, Wyoming

�railroad.

The presence of four companies (about

three hundred men) encouraged construction and safe^
guarded travelers.
Located at the Overland Trail crossing of

the North Platte River, the fort was ideally placed
to carry out its protective function.

Within forty­

eight hours of the arrival of troops, ruffians and
crooks had set up shop a half mile to ^e south at a

place called Brownsville.

A typical railhead town,

stores, eating houses, saloons^ and gambling joints

fronted the street, and sporting houses were placed
^hind.

The population of Brownsville reached fifteen

hund^red within a week.

The Army, claiming it was a

bad influence, kicked the town off Government land.

Brownsville, only weeks old, promptly moved three
miles to the western boundary of the fort, and

renamed itself "Benton,"

It became "the/one bad

town on the U.f."
Fort Steele was built around a small parade

ground.

There was no stockade^and none was needed.

Records indicate that the soldiers never met the
enemy in battle.

Gravel walks surrounded the parade

ground and fronted the buildings.

officers,* row.

The west side was

Four two-story buildings each housed

�N. Weis

about twenty officers.

The central building was

the residence of the commanding officer.

On the east

side were enlisted men’s barracks, laundries, and a

sawmill.

The railroad passed by the south side,

separating the fort from the ^ut^ler’s post and

saloon.

In 1886 the fort was abandoned.

Eight

years later the property was purchased by the Cosgriff

Brothers for one hundred dollars.

They converted the

buildings to stores and residences.

One of the officers’

quarters became a hotel and the powder house a granary.
The saloon remained a saloon.
much of the town.

Later, fire destroyed

The remaining buildings became

the property of the Leo Sheep Company.
The site of Fort Fred Steele (later the

/Town of Fort Steele), is reached by traveling twelve
miles east of Rawlins on Highway 80, then north two

miles along the west bank of the Platte River.

The

fort, its parade ground still prominent, is just

across the Union Pacific tracks.

The Walcott, Wyoming,

15 minute topographic map is of notable help.

Dated

1912, it shows much of the fort as it used to be.

Many of the buildings Indicated on the map are now

merely foundations or depressions in the ground.
-3-

Fort Steele, Wyoming

�N. Weis

Much of the old glory has faded — the enlisted men’s
barracks are filled with barbed wire, salt, wool, and
old sheep hides.

The gable end of the building

nearest the railroad tracks carries evidence of a

number of uses.

Several signs have been lettered on

its frenteThe most prominent and probably
the last:-/^ "Pt. Steele General Store."
a sign;

Below is

"WATER TOUR AUTO HERS."

One building stands on ^fflcei^*^row.

In

remarkably good shape, it is like two houses glued

together — each the exact mirror Image of the

other.

A single partition separates the two stairways

as they lead side by side to the bedrooms on the upper
level.

Behind the building are two "hallway" exten­

sions.

Each leads to its own Indoor outhouse.

The

"privilege of rank" was particularly appreciated on

frosty mornings, but the price paid was the ever­
present odor.

privilege."

Perhaps a better term would be "rank
As the cesspools filled, the hallways

were extended to reach freshly dug pits.

Some old

forts had hallways up to sixty feet long.

The life

of Port Steele was short — and so were its outhouse
extensions.

On the hill, just southwest of the old "fort
become town," are the remains of acting Governor

-im­
port Steele, Wyoming

�N. Weis

Chatterton’s home.
inches thick.

The poured walls are eighteen

J

Old-fashioned concrete, called grout,

was made with burned lime and unwashed gravel.

The

joists and rafters were poured in place.

The Richard's Toll Bridge, located near

Port Steele, was in operation during the years of
emigration.

Built for ^55000, it took $^0,000 in toll

the first season.

Fording the North Platte River was

often dangerous.

The graveyard just south of the fort

gives evidence of such hazard on several headstones.
Glassing the riverbank, trying to spot the

old bridge abutments, I noticed a timbered trestle,

perhaps the remnant of a bridge approach.

The caretaker

at the nearby waterworks (for the town of Rawlins)

supplied some brief answers.
"No, it's not a bridge."

Pressed for more

information, the caretaker added, "Bunch of buildings

over there.

We call it "Timber Town."

That was exciting news.

My topographic map showed

some buildings there, but I had been given to understand
they had all been demolished.

The remains of the old Jj^own

(

of Benton were nearby, and on the Fort Steele side of the

river.

A hurried visit to that site, then the "bunch of

buildings" would have to be looked into carefully.
---------------------5-

Fort Steele, Wyoming

K

�N. Weis

BSMTON, WYOMING

Called

T&lt;^Tjnf’’ and ’’Outlaw To-vm,”

preceded generally by unprintable expletiveJ; Benton
was likely the wildest town ever to exist In Wyoming.

There Is nothing left of the town, just one hell of a
story and millions of broken bits of glass from bottles
emptied and thrown,

Benton was the Illegitimate child of the
Union Pacific.

Three miles west of the fort, It was

beyond military control, yet close enough to dtract
the fort’s several hundred troopers. It was the tent

town railhead at the seven hundred mile marker,
measured west from Omaha,

It was born on July 1,

1868, when the Army kicked the town of Brownsville
off their reservation.

It died In September, 1868,

at the age of three months.

But what a summerI

One

hundred people were killed In three wild months.
There were no trees, the ground was bare,

and the alkali was six Inches deep underfoot.

Stolen

locomotive headlights Illuminated seductively decorated
billboards.

The North Star Saloon and the Desert Hotel

were prominent Institutions of doubtful character.
Other business houses carried signs bordered In red,
and needed no explanation, for the street was their

-6-

Benton, Wyoming

�N. Weis

front parlor.

Twenty-three saloons dispensed, beer,

bitters^and bourbon.

Five dance halls offered the

same fare — but with added attractions.

Three thousand people lived in Benton,
and on weekends it neared five thousand.

Lots sold

for ($100(j|, and^main street was sold out.

Water was

scarce.

Hauled from the Platte River, it sold for

a dollar a barrel.

One former resident recorded an

"irregularity" concerning the delivery of water.

A

mule skinner had just hauled the water jin on a skidL
Being thirsty, he adjourned to the nearest bar and

tipped a few.

He came out in time to see the mules

•backed up to the first row of barrels, one animal

responding to the call of nature.

He sold the

barrel and explained, "Hell, it was so damned muddy

you couldn’t see the bottom anyway."

-7-

Benton, Wyoming

�N. Weis

WALCOTT, WYOMING

Prom 1890 to 1910, Walcott was the busiest

railroad loading point between Omaha, Nebraska, and
Ogden, Utah.

Mining machinery and building materials

were hauled in — copper ore and cattle were sent

out.

There was a hotel on the north side of the

tracks next to the depot.

Two livery stables and

a number of stores and saloons flanked the dirt

road entering from the south.

Several hundred people

lived here during the mining boom, but as time passed,
unfortunate things happened to Walcott,

The copper

mines and smelters of Encampment, to the south,
went broke.
town.

A highway was built, bypassing the

As a final insult, the Union Pacific depot

was removed in 19^0.

There are two Walcotts now.

The "new

highway' Walcott*'is seven miles east of the Port

Steele turnoff.
north.

The "railroad Walcott" is one mile

Both are shown on the Walcott, Wyoming, 15

minute topographic map.

There are two fascinating

points of Interest at the site of the railroad town.
One is the old saloon, and the other is its caretaker,
Slim Parkko.

The saloon has a sign on its false front
-18-

Walcott, Wyoming

�N. Weis

that is a work of art.

In fancy scroll and block

letters it states:

THE GLUB Saloon
JOHN H. LEWIS

The "S" is backwards in "saloon," but correct in
"Lewis!"

Perhaps it was intended to be the "Club

Saloon," with a scrolly "C", but it looked like a

"G" — and "Glub" had an appropriate sound — so

"Glub" it became.

If it brought in customers,

Proprietor Lewis wasn’t about to change it.
An old rusted tin sign on the saloon states:

Gornone Cigar Company’s
DRY CLIMATE
A Cigar Built for the Altitude

Across the tracks are a number of the old
cabins of Walcott.

Sheep Company.

Now they are used by the Vivian

Old wooden wagon wheels lean everywhere.

Removed from sheep wagons, they have been replaced
with rubber-tired wheels.
On my way out of town I stopped to visit with

one of the few surviving residents of Walcott.

He

lives in a well&lt;*kept little house just behind the
"Glub Saloon."

A veteran sheep'^ms.n, he Introduced

himself as "Slinf Parkko, and — like the saloon —
he was most descriptively named.

-1§-

Walcott, Wyoming

�N. Weis

"Does that sign really read the "Glub**'
'

Saloon," I asked^

Slim replied, "Yup."

"How many people are living here now?"
Slim looked across the tracks.

"Them two

and just me."

"Is that little building up on the hill an
old water tank?"
"Yup," said Slim, looking a little tired

from such continued effort.
*•
As I left" town, I looked back at the meager

remains of this*onc.e busy freighting junction.

The

town was well suited to its leading citizen.

Walcott—

like Slim’s conversation— was "real sparse."

-20Walcott, Wyoming

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                    <text>�N. Weis

OREGON AREA
T4x1s-Unlt GonXaiRg-'
A^&amp;p3M&gt;xifflateiy^--3400--ifard^i

At slwrt gl^ce, the old dredge resembled a
monster.

A monster in Its last frantic moment of life,

its square-browed head reared high, vacant eyes staring
blindly, with steel jaws poised for a last vengeful

IQ Q

thrust.

Frozen in position by disuse, and trapped in
a small pond of its own making, the gigantic dredge is
as impressive as the destruction still evident in its

-1-

�N. Weis

gravel--strewn wake.

This dredge and two others like it
■&gt;

)

once ravaged the broad valley of the Powder River of

pastern Oregon.

Green with trees and lush with grass,

the terrain was lifted, sifted, washed^and subtracted

of Its wealth, then haphazardly replaced.

The precious

soil that once topped the baser rock now spread^ Its

fertility thinly downstream.

Gold was the master, and

ten tons of it lay in the valley, demanding harvest.
The giant dredges reaped that harvest, slowly tracing

their broad erosionary swaths until the entire valley
was consumed.
Twelve million dollars’^worth of gold poured
temporary life into the town of Sumpter.

That life has

since faded, and little is left of the original Sumpter,

One of the three dredges was destroyed by fire, another
was dismantled and shipped to richer gravel.

The third

dredge is largely intact, and is Sumpter's largest and

most impressive surviving structure.

It rests quietly

in the small pond at the east edge of town.

Slightly

down at the bow and in gentle contact with the bottom,
its endless bucket chain is raised high.

Three levels

of enclosed machinery topped with a control house, which

in turn is capped by a cable housing, give the dredge a
height fully sixty feet above wateiTilne.

-2-

�N. Weis

As I was preparing to photograph the old relic,

a man and two boys approached.

Equipped with hammers,

gold pans,and fishing tackle, they proceeded to unlock

the sliding door on the lower deck.

As part owners of

the dredge, they were intent on enjoying the day aboard
their private, although immobile craft.

I quickly

r
accepted their invitation to tour\the
monster's innards.

An ancient electric motor once fed power to

the chain of buckets by means of a drive belt eighty
feet long, two feet wide, and nearly a half an inch thick.

Great banks of shakers and sorters processed the gravel
to a gold-bearing black sand concentrate.

Next, sca­

venger Jigs separated the gold from the useless sand.

One of the cogwheels that relayed power to the shakers
was thirteen feet in diameter.

Prom the broad-^windowed

bridge, the operator controlled all functions with twelve

large levers and a number of rheostats,

A double-barrelled

heater constructed from two fifty-gallon drums offered
minimal comfort on cold days.

A catwalk le^ directly

from the control deck to the extreme end of the dredge

boom.

A serpentine stairway connected the bridge with

the lower machine decks.

The handballs were worn

pleasantly smooth from countless use.

-3-

�N. Weis

A small projection at water level, "amidships
on the port side," made an ideal fishing platform for
one of the boys.

Although small, the trout were

The boy’s brother and father were busy

plentiful.

pounding out rust and trace deposits left in the final
shakers and scavenger jigs.

It took an hour or so for

them to glean a cup of rusty concentrate, but when panned,

the gold realized was enough to pay wages, and to set
them once again to pounding away at the old rusted
machinery.

Gold was located here in 1862 by a group of
Confederate soldiers on their way to California,

They

called the place Sumter, after the ^ort of the same name

Later the spelling was changed to the present Sumpter
News of their discovery of placer gold spread rapidly.
and soon hundijsds of men were washing gravel
In the
SGVGnuXOS
late(70’s) the Chinese moved in to rework the same de-

posits.

Later, the prime deposits were found on the

hillsides, and hard-.rock mining ensued.

In I896 the

railroad reached town, and the population grew to more

than ^00^.

Sumpter town reached its maximum in 19OO

when the deep mines and the dredges were both operating
full shifts.

There were two brick banks, two hotels, an
opera house, a lumber mill, and more than two dozen

0
’h

�N. Weis

saloons in Sumpter,

A two-story building on the hill

served as a hospital, and was later converted to an Odd' '*

/•ellows Hall,
The fire of 1916 destroyed most of Sumpter.

When the hoses burned through, dynamite was used to blow
up buildings to create firebreaks.

The desperate attempt

to save the town ^:^argely failed, and only a few structures
were saved.

The O^d /ellows Hall, the school, a store,

a few bams, and a number of residences were among the
survivors.

Many citizens moved out.

Those ths-t stayed

scavenged many of the deserted buildings to enhance their
own homes, or to supply firewood for the winter.

One of the surviving barns has been preserved
by the care demanded by constant use, and the protection

of a metal roof.

Painted on the roof, in startling

contrast, is an orange-lettered sign marking the location
and distance to the nearest airport.

It seems as incon­

gruous as an old man wearing a propeller beanie.

Along*^

side is parked an old^solid-rubber-tired Union Oil trailer
tank.

An old brick vault marks the location of one

of the town’s banks.

Nearby is a small wooden shed with

a bashed—in garage door at its front.

fire department.

This is Sumpter’s

Inside is a brightly painted four*-

wheeled trailer with a tongue adapted to either pulling

-5-

�by hand or attaching by pin and clevis to any handy

vehicle equipped with trailer hitch. The deluxe hose
/A
cart is complete with several reels of stout hose, a

number of axes and a tool chest containing extra nozzles.
The bed of the narrow-gauge railroad that once
connected Sumpter and nearby Baker is now the grade of

the excellent blacktop road that serves the town and
forest recreation areas beyond.

Sumpter is six miles

south of Baker on Highway 7, then twenty miles west on
There are no topographic maps of the area

Highway 220.

near Sumpter, or Granite and Whitney to the west and

south, but forest ^ervlce maps indicate most of the
Important features,

Today there are 11? people living in towaffbut
only 80 spend the winter.

operation,

One place of business is in

A cafe and general meeting place, it serves

good coffee and great conversation.

The ranking old^^

timer, whose father had lived in Sumpter since 1880,
took great delight in telling me about the town.

He had

a storehouse of the finest quality lies I had heard in
years.

He fired them out so fast that laughter on the

last interefered with the telling of the next.

"When the town was goin* strong, there was
fourteen saloons, five hundred rahR4?ah girls, and one
tired sinner,*

�N, Weis

After several cups of coffe^ we were still

undecided as to how we might best preserve the facts as
to "what old Sumpter was really like,"

-7-

�N. Weis

KG^ITB, OREGON
Once inhabited by five thousand lively souls,

the town of Giranlte now is best known as the smallest

incorporated town in the world.

With a population of

one, its smallness cannot be exceeded, only equaled,

Ote Ford became the sole resident of Granite
when the mayor hung himself, and "Cliff the Prospector"

went looking for gold in Ten Gent Creek,

Being his own

mayor, council, treasurer and constituency, Ote was
quick to state that Granite had a Republican adminis­
64^issue of the ^Capitol

In the August 26,

tration.

Journal,^ Ote is quoted — "There’s no such thing as
isolation.

Too many people want to share it with you,"

There are a number of reasons why people are

drifting back to Granite,

Easily accessible — Just

fifteen miles west of Sumpter ~ and burled deep in the
beautiful Blue Mountains, the setting alone is attraction
enough.

Taxes are nonexistent, water fees are one dollar

a month, and the town treasury is in the black.

At last

report, the balance was more than one hundred dollars.

Although the summer population has soared to
nearly one dozen, the permanent year-round count of

residents remains at the minimum — one I

-8-

�N. Weis

A few years ago the "pride of Granite" — the
three-story deluxe hotel — burned to the ground.

Still

standing are a number of old buildings dating from the
1800’s when Granite was in its prime.

The small school^

house -- later used as^city hall -- has developed a

decided slant.

Built on a strongly sloped hill, it leans

to the high side in over^ompensation.
Main street, in spite of fire and depredation,

leaves the impression of being lined with stores.

Prominent on a corner of the main intersection is the
old Mercantile, which later became an entertainment
hall and did final service as a gas station and general

store.

Across the street, the drugstore — now converted

to a vacation home — displays a broad-palmed set of
moose antlers on its porch roof.

Next to it is the

freight office with its stylish cater-cornered doorway,

A block east are the remains of the fancy two—story dance
hall. Only the front portion of the second floor is left.
The windows have long been paneSis, but the fancy sill

work and gussied shingles offer a suggestion of yesterdays
grandeur,
r
One general store is now in business.

Strictly

a seasonal operation, it offers a warm welcome, cool

refreshment^and enchanting history.

-9-

�N. Weis

.WHITNEY, OREGON^Z
~
Surrounded, by booming gold camps, but unblessed

by even token amounts of the precious metal, the town of
Whitney could offer only a supporting role.

The railroad

that passed through town was kept busy hauling lumber to
the camps and bringing gold out.

Freighting and lumber­

ing promised the town only temporary life.

Its longevity

depended upon two expendables, gold and timer,
A
Whitney was the prime station of the famous
eighty-jnile-long narrow-gauge Sumpter Valley Railroad,
Centrally located between the two end terminals — Prairie
City and Baker — it was the ideal spot for roundhouse

and crews’ quarters.

In spite of the fourteen rail crews

quartered in Whitney, and the lumber mill that employed
up to seventy-five men, the population of the town never
climbed much beyond one hundred.

When the sawmill burned

in 1918, the town became nearly deserted,

A brief five-

year revival occurred in 1939 when the Oregon Lumber
Company rebuilt the mill in order to harvest a newly

purchased block of timer,

Whitney may be reached by ten miles of passable
dirt road extending south of Sumpter, or by sixteen miles

of the same kind of road extending northeast from Highway

7 near Bates,

Whitney occupies only a small part of a
-10-

�N. Weis

large grassy flat, and the dirt road does not widen
appreciably as it passes through town,

"Town" is now

a mere handful of buildings, perhaps twelve or fourteen,

mostly on the north side of the street.

The old round^^

house and depot are disappointingly absent.

Even the

rails have been torn up for scrap.
But the old sawmill is there — its proud

image faithfully reproduced in the quiet waters of the
log pond. The mill rests in the center of its own broad
flat, lush with flowers in full bloom, KneJljiigh purple

blossoms stand uniformly a half foot higher than yellow
blossoms,

I bent down to inspect an old saw blade, and

the broad field turned from purple to golden yellow,
then returned as I regained my original perspective.

The mill is gutted of machinery.

There is no

floor, and water seeping in from the log pond has turned
the dirt to mud a foot deep.

You can navigate through

the building only by hopping from old board to rock to

concrete pillar.

Thousands of swallows have made the

old structure their home.

They resent any intrusion and

take issue with each sudden movement.

Assuredly, they

are harmless, but in such great numbers they are
distinctly unsettling, A simple wave of the arm, and a
multitude of birds take*^wlng, A symphony of motion

-11-

�N, Weis

flows, at first away, and then toward the offender.

The

noise rises to a peak, each bird encouraging the other,
then settles down to a flutter of wings as a transitory

calm again prevails.
Surely great events have transpired in Whitney,

but for now its primary claim to greatness is its
magnificent birdhouse standing on its own reflection,
centered in a field of purple and gold.

�N. Weis

^GALENA, OREGON
The roots of trees, downed by high winds, had
levered up fantastic chunks of gold.
they glowed dully, awaiting discovery.

Cleansed by rain,

In 1862, a

group of miners made the find of their lives.

They kept

their secret for more than a year while they skimmed the

richest deposits.

By 1864 the word leaked out,

big as your fist J"

This time the wild rumors were trueI

"Nuggets

Gold was sprinkled along the Middle Pork of Day River
and up Elk Creek,

It ran from fine to five-pound chunks.

Claims were filed and the rich deposits along the Elk and
the Middle Day were soon taken.
Some miners objected to claims laid out length­

wise along the stream, and forced a maximum width rule
on the offenders.

Each man could have a slice of stream

as wide as he could reach with his pick, without moving

his feet.

Tall miners with long-handled picks had a

distinct advantage.

Later, at a meeting of five hundred

miners, a standard width of fifty feet was set.
Soon two communities sprang up.

One near the

junction of the two streams, another about two miles north

up narrow Elk Creek Canyon,

The lower camp was originally

named Susanville, and had its own post office.

Shortly

after 1900, some miners from the upper Elk Creek camp
slipped into town and stole the post office — boxes.
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�N. Weis

ink pad, oanceling stamp^and all.

The Elk Creek camp

then became Susanville, and "Old Susanville" petitioned
for and received a new post office with the name of Galena,

By that time much of the gold was gone, and the most likely
future for the newly christened Galena seemed to be in

the mining of galena, a shiny sulphide of lead.
The town of Galena never was very large, since

most miners preferred to camp on their claims.

Its

stores came near outnumbering its residences,

Lee On

Ralph Rider operated the livery

ran a Chinese store,
I

and hotel.

..

There was a dance hall and meat market, along

with a number of saloons.

Galena was a going town, but

gold is soon gone and the miners leave with it,

A new lease was given to the life of Galena

when dredges designed originally to be used on the

Panama Canal were refitted and shipped in during the
A
Reassembled, they processed much of the gravel along the
Middle Pork of the John Day River, extracting gold that
had eluded the miners of an earlier day.

was lucrative but short-lived.

The new effort

The town became so quiet

that in 19^3 the post office was closed by request of
the postmaster.
The road to Galena is long, yet pleasantly

scenic.

Prom the twin cities of John Day and Canyon City,
-14-

�N. Weis

U. S. Highway 26 extends about twenty-two miles northeast
to Bates Junction.

A left turn at Bates puts you through

town, across the "Middle Day" River, and past the sawmill.

Twenty miles on down stream are the quiet remains of
Galena.

The gusanville, Oregon. 15 minute topographic

map shows the locations of both Galena and Susanville,

as well as many of the mines in the area.
At Galena, several old residences and two stores
line the south side of the road.

Imbedded in tall weeds.

The stores are deeply

One place of business was con­

verted later to a combination garage and gas station.

Its old pump, complete with long-handled lever, stands

nearly vertical.

The glass reservoir is gone, but the

strip marking the level for each gallon is intact.

Inside,

the oli one-stall garage has been converted to a meat cooler
with provisions for hanging freshly killed game,

A

single flower grows tall through a one-inch hole bored

in the floor.
A metal-roofed clapboard cabin once sported an
outside stala?way to the attic.

Recently the staircase

has been dislodged by horses that graze on tall grass
once worn short by frantic activity.
One family lives in Galena now, and even they

find it difficult to believe that at one time five thousand
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�N. Weis

miners visited town to cast their votes in a vain effort
to beat out Canyon City in the contest for county seat.

-16-

�N. Weis

\^USANVILLB, OREGON
Two miles northeast of Galena, up the narrow

canyon of Elk Creek, are the sparse remains of Susan­
ville, once called "Upper Camp."

Established in 1864

as a gold camp, it received its present name in I90I
when miners lifted the post office from the rival camp
downstream.

Placer deposits were rich along the two miles
of canyon, and claims were narrow and lucrative.

ran large,

Nuggets

Jane Erickson reported in the Sunday Oregonian

Magazine that a nugget large as a flat iron and worth

fourteen hundred dollars was found there in 1913.

It

is now on display at the bank in Baker, Oregon.
Placering paid off along the entire length of
Elk Creek Canyon.

One of the larger outfits was owned

by a Mr, Haskell.

His hydraulic operation netted #165,000

in one day, and reportedly resulted in a total yield of
nearly two million in gold, in spite of the ever-present

loss due to high-grading.

High-grading was the quaa'-

respectable practice of quietly pocketing the richest
ore samples.

Mine owners commonly paid low wages and

tacitly permitted high-grading.

There was outright thievery^ too, but most
thieves found it difficult to leave town with the goods.
-17-

�N. Weis

Early one morning, Haskell’s Chinese night watchman was
observed walking down the road, suitcase In hand.

The

suitcase sagged heavily from Its handle, and the Chinaman
stopped frequently to rest.

During one pause, Haskell's

men rushed up and demanded the suitcase be opened.

Out

rolled a number of golden nuggets, the largest worth
twelve hundred dollars I
Quartz prospecting began In Elk Canyon about

1869.

Early samples were processed In the Cabel

panamalgamatlon unit.

Later a ten-stamp mill was built,

primarily to process the ores from the nearby Badger

Mine,

A number of shafts found and exploited the mother

lode.

There wshb the Bull of the Woods, fhe Gem, The

Present Need, and the Poor Man that made several men rich.

Susanville had but one street.
too narrow to provide a second.

The canyon was

More than a thousand

miners were known to crowd Into town on Saturday night I

White's Store was busy.

So busy that to make change

quickly, all prices were rounded to the nearest quarter.
Anything that sold for less than fifteen cents was free.
The remains of Susanville are strung out for

nearly a mile, and are now mostly flat but empty home

sites, and scattered piles of rotting timber.

At the

west end of town there is an old log cabin, its walls

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�N. Weis

leaning under a collapsed roof.

Central in town is the

old mill, erect and plumb, but nearly devoid of shingles.

Its machinery is gone and the trees have grown close
alongside.

The tar-papered cabin just opposite the

mill has eight rooms and three stoves.

One of the last

residents strung a long antenna to improve his radio

reception.

He used whatever wire was handy, and what

was handy was barbed wire.
At the upper end of town stands a small^ but

Intact stamp mill.

Of fairly recent vintage, it has a

driveway leading to the upper end where ore can be dumped
in.

In operation, a reciprocating engine provided power,

and a lever gave control over the flow of ore to the

stamps,

A stamp is merely an iron rod about two Inches

in diameter and ten feet long.

The lower section is

broadened to a width of six inches.

Each stamp weighs

several hundred pounds and has, near its upper end, a

projection that allows it to be lifted.

When released,

the stamp falls on the ore, crushing it fine, freeing
the particles of gold.

The stamp butt was^ef stout

metal and high-sided to permit stamping in a bath of
mercury.

The mercury amalgamated with the gold, holding

it in the bath while the worthless rock spilled over

the sides.
-19-

�An occasional camper or sightseer may travel up

the canyon,

A few stubborn prospectors still cast about

for some lost vestige of gold,

Down below, a mechanized

gold washing operation is reworking old gravel.

narrow canyon is quiet,

But the

Skinners driving twelve-mule

jerkliners no longer fight the rear teams over the trace

to make a tight switchback.

Welcome would be the sound

of cuss words well chosen from a vocabulary of large
experience and delivered with unwavering conviction.

�N. Weis

■^^he closest tow was twenty miles away and not
much when you got there.

The farmers and ranchers were

tired of losing so much time commuting for supplies,

A

meeting was called, ideas were set forth, and solutions
were reached

First they would build a school, then a store
and finally a church.

The homes and entertainment halls
-1-

�N. Weis

would follow naturally.

The plan was sound and the town

had a guaranteed future.

But unknown to the planners,

the guarantee would last only until the advent of the
automobile.

Mlles would then be measured in minutes

Instead of days, and the town’s reason for existence
would be lost.

Richmond, born in I890, grew in a

few decades to respectability, then faded slowly again

to nothing.

Highway 20?, an all-weather road which is

partially blacktopped, passes within a mile of Richmond.
The Richmond. Oregon, 15 minute topographic map is a help
in locating the town, but shows little that is not readily
detected when on the site.

The schoolhouse — first structure built, and
probably one of the last in use — is equipped with the
standard bell tower plus a covered porch on two sides.
The large single classroom is still dominated by a large

black heater bearing the name "The Smith System."

A

major engineering breakthrough for its time, it had a
the
large flue that drew cold air from^floor level and
delivered it to the chimney.
The open door of the Methodist Church invites

the visitor.

A fetching alcove empties into the

sanctuary where two pews still face the empty platform.
The bell tower was vented, and probably held a bell

capable of sending its call throughout the town.

-2-

�The boarding house - store - resldenCt- saloon
post office buildingiras a forerunner to the modem en­

closed shopping center.

The "mall" was a covered porch

that serviced the full length of the structure.
Several large homes stand on the hill to the

northwest of town.

One home is occasionally occupied

and has posed on its door a passionate plea by its owner
stating in part*

"This is not an abandoned home and is

not locked — so don’t break the windows or kick in the

V^.everything worth stealing has already

door," I t
been stolen,"

Then an addendum is addedj

"Please^folks, if

you gotta go — be brave — and use the convenient

sagebrush — our water is turned off and the stool won't

flush---- "
Thoughtfully, owner Rod Donnelly adds a word

of caution concerning rattlesnakes and exposed portions

of the anatomy.

Beyond Donnelly's house, and up the hill,
stands a more pretentious structure.

Vacant and open,

to the elements, it exudes an aura of mystery.

isn't haunted, it ought to be.

If it

Every room on the second

floor is covered with old clothing.

Several feet deep

in most places, it offers delightful shelter to mice

�N. Weis

and other rodents.

Their rustlings from under foot keep

one on the alert.

Occasionally an animal will scurry

out on the roof and create a new sound not quickly

Identified,

Occasional screeching sounds are probably

loose sheets of metal roofing scraping raw edges.
stairs creak three steps ahead of your feet.

The

The house

groans — but It Is old, and the wind has picked up.
Weather Is making, and biscuit clouds are overhead.

Precursors of tornadoes, their Ominous presence adds

the final touch of ghostllness to the house on the hill.

-4-

�N. Weis

LONEROCK, OREGON

Never was a town more appropriately named!
The huge lone rock Is the only dominant feature of an

otherwise flat valley.

Not only the town, but the stream

and the valley derived their names from the Impressive
landmark,

A helpful gentleman In Spray, Oregon, had. de­
scribed the rock as "big as a house," and also fl-rmly

declared the town had recently burned to the ground.

was wrong on both counts.

He

The town was quite Intact,

and the rock was not just "big as a house," It was

"bigger than a church!"
The Baptists were the first to build a church

In Lonerock,

Soon It proved too small for the community

and In I898 a new church was planned.

Times had changed.

The majority of citizens were Methodist, and a Methodist
Church could be built In only one place.

Built stoutly

and planted firmly by the rock, one must assume that
Peter was quoted often, and that "Rock of Ages" echoed

frequently within Its walls,
Lonerock may be approached from Condon, Oregon,

by proceeding east on Highway 206 for five miles, then

branching to the right on an undesignated blacktop road,

After about fifteen miles, the road becomes gravel, and
-5-

N

�MH* promptly slants down the steep valley wall to Lonerock,

There are no topographic maps available for this portion
of Oregon,

Luckily, many of the towns in this unit are

shown on ordinary state highway maps.

Sixteen people live in town, and the ranking
resident is declared "mayor" by acclamation.

Edith Perry,

holds the office at present, and is highly re­
spected by the citizenry.

The mayor pointed out some

of the sites in town, occasionally throwing in a little

Chamber of Commerce ^itch,

"Yes, that old flat thing

there is the dance floor — had a building over it but
we had to tear it down cause it was aleanin*,,The building
next to it was a pastime,"

I asked about the name of

"No name — just a pastime — sold soft drinks

the store,

and candy and nuts.

Had a confectionery over there,"

Mayor Edith pointed to a small building nearly overgrown
with trees,

"The school is being torn down.

in Portland own it now.

Some people

Was built in 1903 and we even had

a highschool on the second floor — had fifteen students,"

I asked about local taxes and learned that
five dollars a month was adequate to run the town,
"And we make Improvements^too.

water system.

We have a new

Ran a pipe from the spring up on the hill

and the water comes down just a flyin*.

No, we don’t

have a fire chief, but we are all members of the Fire
Department,

Saloons? — sure we had some.

’em with a spoon they was so thickI

Could stir

We graveled the

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I anerac

�N. Weis

streets last year and still have money left — only town

in the ^tate that’s out of debt."
I left town via the gravel road to the north.

The local two-wire telephone line parallels the road for

a number of miles.

Never had I seen a telephone system

with such personally. /Mayor Edith had termed it a
"private line that works sometimes."

Most poles were

nothing but small saplings.

Some were bent nearly double

by the weight of the wires.

At times the Insulators

were nailed to fence posts, or the wires merely tied
with twine to a handy tree.

Here and there the lines

crossed and touched one another.

What appeared to be

an old rake handle was tied to a metal fence post, thereby
gaining the rigidity needed to support the wires.

At

intervals, rocks as big as cabbages were hung on the
line to prevent wind whipping.
The eas3&lt;^ing attitude that prevailed in
Lonerock seemed to stretch out along the pleasantly

haphazard strands.

Occasional creosoted poles appeared,

then became frequent.

Disgustingly upright and too

perfectly aligned, they pinched to nothing the last
quiet memory of Lonerock.

�N. Weis

ASHWOOD, OREGON

The little weathered building with its comer-''
mounted double doors and fancy half-circle entrance
porch gives little indication of its rowdy history.

Called "McCallum’s Saloon," it was established in 1897,
two years before the town was platted.

Thirty years

later it suffered the Insult of being placed penmangnf.iy

on the wagon when the Baptists converted it to a church.

Many of Ashwood’s buildings have been put to
new uses.

Others have drifted into decay or met

destruction by fire.

The countrjy store-gas station

was once the hotel, with attached saloon.

A house

deeply buried among lofty trees was the town’s favorite

eating house.

The Ash Butte Grange Hall is unchanged

and unused.

Cows graze on the lawns and wander about

the streets.

An old deserted store has wire mesh fenc­

ing nailed to its porch posts to prevent damage by cattle.
The road to Ashwood leads east from U. S. Highway
97 about two miles south of Willowdale.

After fifteen miles

of unmarked hairpin turns, the road enters the j^alley of

Trout Creek, makes a left turn at the Baptist Church, and

promptly becomes the main street of Ashwood.

I was in town less than ten minutes when I was

informed^"Mrs. Allison want^ to see you."

-8-

The invitation

�N. Weis

was Issued rather firmly by a soft-spoken but stoutly
constructed man In miner’s clothes.

With little delay,

we adjourned to the two—story deeply shaded home of

Mrs. Allison.

The welcome was warm, and yet strange^4i^-\

"How are you?

I saw you enter town two days

ago."

I expressed my puzzlement and she explained,

"I see things — visions If you wish.

I saw a tall man

with dark—rimmed glasses entering town."
The miner offered corroboration.

Shortly, two

other miners — the Mosley frothers — Joined us and
formed a larger chorus of agreement.

My comment that I

put little faith In fortune-telling, was accepted calmly

and I was treated to a recounting of past forecasts

proven true, each accompanied by much head bobbing.
The three miners and the clairvoyant had been

hired to look Into an old mine In the area, and search

out Its hidden deposits.
It was to be a cinch.

With the added power of vision.

I asked why they hadn’t already

located the vein, and was told that success would come

soon.

Word had come down from the other world to be

patient.

They were very Interesting and helpful people,
and their coffee was great.

One of the ^^^ley frothers

suggested that I visit Horse Heaven, and^gave me a
-9-

�N. Weis

description of the extensive remains there.

This was

great news, because it appeared to be a little-known

site, and so far my efforts in Oregon had turned up
only well“’documented ghost towns.

rOn the heels of the suggestion that I visit

Horse Heaven came the forecast "that’s where you are
going early tomorrow morning."

I asked the seer if she

would trace my future route — It would save me a lot of

map study.

It seemed "the old people" hadn’t informed

her of my plans more than one day in advance.

My im­

pulse was to (immediately Mrive'|to Horse Heaven and
prove her forecast wrong, but the light was right for
pictures in Ashwood, and there was a local old-Xlmer I

Wanted to visit.
Eighty-five-year-old Aaron Hale lives in a
long trailer pulled close 1'^ to one of Ashwood’s old

stores.

Besides Aaron and his wife, the trailer holds

three cats and a Chihuahua.
the lot.

The dog is the smallest of

He thinks he is a cat and gets along fine.

All

six evidenced a warm welcome, and soon Aaron was telling
about old Ashwood.

He remembered best the humorous events like
the time the men at King Mine quit.

"There were seventy

men working shifts, living in a big boardIng'^ouse up there.
-10-

L

�N. Weis

Had a gal hired to run it and cook — she did for quite

Tired of being unappreciated.

a while — then quit.

They hired two men to take over.
oyster stew and crackers.

For supper they served

The next mornln’ they dished

up hot cakes and syrup, and you could roll up the cakes

like a cigarette, then throw ’ em — they’d open up and
fly like a pigeon.

The boys threw 'em all, then threw

out the table — and then the chairs — and all walked
to Ashwood to the cafe,"

Aaron pointed to a delapidated

old building a few lots away,

"The superintendent

returned and found the mine shut down and the men in

town.

They would go back to work if he got a new cook —

he did — two women.

Really turned out the ore for a

while I"
Aaron had a friend named Tom Brown, who had

his own claim, but had to work to earn dynamite money.
"His claim lapsed as he was cornin’ close, and old

Hubbard filed on it — Tom took him to court and got it

back — turned out a good mine^too.
‘’Ashwood had its heydey," says Aaron.

"There

were three hundred people here in the nineties — and

now there’s just four."

He didn’t count the folks

doing temporary exploratory work.

"The Hamilton Hotel

had ten rooms — and the town had its own paper, ^he
Ashwood Prospector." He dug out an old copy dated”^^^

-11-

�N. Weis

May 4, 1901.

Half of the front page was an ad asking people

to come live in Ashwood.

A Justice of the Peace announced

in a box ad, "Careful attention given collections."

Much

of the paper was filled with ads from the nearby and larger
town of Antelope. [Tn fact, the Ashwood Prospector was
’
printed in Antelop^

,
IV
O
\
.&amp;

From the beginning. Ashwood had been over^

shadowed by Antelope.

When mining activity began to slow

down, shortly after I9OO, it was logical for those out of

Soon stores were

work to seek employment in Antelope.
closing down for lack of business.

A small flurry of mining

raised hopes momentarily in 1925.

During the thirties and

forties, the town revived somewhat in response to mercury

mining at Horse Heaven, twenty miles or so to the east.

Things are quiet these days in Ashwood,

are more cows in town than people.

There

It is a relaxing place

to visit, and a restful place to camp.

I overnighted by the old grange building in

the center of town, and was awakened early by cattle rubbing
vigorously against the tailgate of my truck.

Soon I had

breakfasted, and in accordance with the seer’s forecast, was

on my way to Horse Heaven.

-12-

�N. Weis

HORSE HEAVEN, OREGON

Two old prospectors, Champion and Kenton,

first located the fine particles of red cinnabar on
the divide between Cherry Greek and Muddy Greek,

The

find developed into a major producer of mercury.
That is the way one historical account dis­

posed of the story behind Horse Heaven,

But the real

story is fantastic, and perhaps never before told in

its entirety.

It was related to me by a tall, somewhat
Z- ..

-■

graying gentleman now prospecting at Horse Heaven,

His

name is Ray R, Whiting, Jr,, and he, more than any other

man, knows -the total story — because he lived it,
'?•.
"Old Champ5ejFjira®:
great- jst©specter
could
find it as if he could^^mell it.

Always scratching

though — like he had seven-year itchy and no bath.
He used to take some of us kids along with him.

One

summer my buddy, Harry Hoy, and myself were out here

camping and prospecting with our dads.

Old Champion

was along, and he was showing Harry and me the float
of cinnabar that he had found earlier,"
We walked a few steps over to the scant shade

of a juniper tree,

Ray bent down and picked up a handful

of whitish granules that covered the area.

fhrfe.

�N. Weis

"This is the stuff.

In fact it was right here

that Champion panned some out to show us."

Rather than Just talk about it, Ray got a
pan and a plastic jug filled with water and proceeded

to pan the sample.

Quicklyy- the coarse chunks went over

the rim of the pan.

More water, and the finer granules

were slopped over the edge.

In moments| Ray had the

original handful down to a small residue of deep red

powder and black sand.

"There — you

see the red — that’s cinnabar —

mercury sulfide — and

it's mostly mercury.

Champion had found the

stuff earlier the same year —

Well^old

that was 1933 — but had given up on it because it was

just float — stuff that washed in.

Being on top of a

divide, he figured it couldn’t be much and told us it
was worthless.

Like any other kids, we figured a big

lode was nearby, so we got to looking around.

Pound

some outcrops that looked good, so we started digging."

Ray pointed out the spot a few yards up the

slope,

"Spent most of the summer.

and made a project out of it.

sixty days.

Brought supplies in

Harry and I tunneled for

That's sticking pretty good for a couple

of higPischool kids, but we were beginning to lose our
confidence.

Eating lunch one day, we were sitting by

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|

&gt;

�N, Weis

the tunnel, and I got to kicking at a rock — just

messing around.

That rock just flipped over.

It was

wet on the bottom and bright red I”

We looked at some samples that Ray had nearby pink tracings went everywhere throughout the pale

whitish rock.
"Here — look see how it comes to life when you

wet it."

Ray poured some water on the rock, and each

pink line became flaming red.

"We started a new tunnel,

and in a couple of days we were really in it — solid

cinnabar, and slimy with beaded mercury.

Our dads had

us sit on the claim and we formed a company.

Us kids

got a third interest for maklng^t^e find. Later when
‘... '
K
we sold out, Harry and I got eleven percent, and we

were both rich."
In a few years the new Crystal Syndicate had

the mine in production.
Heaven Mines, Inc.

Later it was named the Horse

In 1936 the Sun Oil Company bought

the mine and operated it until 194-4.

One hundred

thousand tons of ore were removed from deep within the
hill, leaving tunnels fourteen hundred feet long on ten

different levels, the deepest over three hundred feet
down.

Four huge stopes, or caverns, were left where

massive pockets of ore were removed.

-15-

�N. Weis
A twenty-ton mill and reduction furnace turned

out 15,000 flasks of mercury, each weighing seventy-six

pounds, and valued at a total of seven million dollars
at the old prices.

The mill burned In 1946, and excent

x

for a spurt ln^ft^^ty-f©ury the [mining was finished.
At Its peak the town had a population somewhat
over a hundred.

It had a post office, dozens of cabins,

a few bunkjhouses, one cookhouse, a few office buildings,
a schoolhouse with fifteen students, and uncounted numbers
of rattlesnakes.

The rattlesnakes are still there.

Ray

killed three the day before I arrived.
No topographic maps are available for towns In

the area, but Horse Heaven Is easily reached by driving

the fifteen miles of good gravel road extending east of

Ashwood.
■&amp;
I asked Ray what would a rich hlghjschool kid do
with his money and his life back In 1933.

’’Well — I built a fancy restaurant In California

It was a dandy — and lots of famous people used to come

there.

Made money^too.

But somehow I let It all slip

through my fingers.

"Rags to riches to rags again," I volunteered.

"No, more like tatters now.
here to locate some new deposits.

I'm on a project

The government Is

helping out, since the need for mercury Is critical."

There was more to the story, and Ray led the
way to a spot where we could look at a skyllned outcrop.

"See that rock up there'?
man’s head, doesn't It?

Looks Just like a

See the open mouth?

That looks

�N. Weis

just like a dear old friend of mine,

I was with him

when he died, and he looked just like that rock.

He

had the same nose and chin."

I agreed that the rock certainly looked like
an old man’s final profile,
"He told me before he died that he and a pal
of his — way back in ’35 — had been kicking around

just west of the old cook*^house.
are standing now.

That’s about where we

They uncovered an outcrop of cinnabar

that looked redder than the one I had found.

They agreed

to keep it a secret, maybe try and file on it later.
They never did, and he wanted me to know about it.
That’s why I am out here now.

I intend to find, that

outcrop,"
It has been over a year since I visited with

Ray Whiting, Jr.

By now he has either found the new

lode or ended his search and turned Horse Heaven over

to the rattlesnakes.

-17-

�ANTELOPE, OREGON
Supplies were needed at Canyon City.
been discovered.

Gold had

The nearest supply point was The

Dalles, and a route between the two points was quickly
established.

In 1862 the Wheelers built a way station

at a point sixty miles out of The Dalles.

it VAntelope.X

They named

Soon Nathan Wallace built a store,

then a smithy and stockade were added.

Competitors

built on a better site two miles north, and all of
Antelope soon moved to "New Antelope."
Immediately the Union House Hotel was con­

structed,

Soon a large livery and dance hall named

"Tamany" was built.

There was no stockade at the new

town, even though Indian threats continued,

P, W.

Sllvertooth, openrator of a saloon bearing his name,

is said to have "saved the day" when the regular stage
driver refused the run because of Indian danger.

The

stage operators were so happy to have Sllvertooth

volunteer^ that they offered him generous payment.
"Just name your price."
"Well," answered Sllvertooth, "just give me

some Saw Log and some Battle Axe,"
Armed with these two most popular brands of
plug tobacco, the intrepid Sllvertooth whipped the teams
up and dusted the stage out of town.

-18-

His plan was simple.

�N. Weis

Each time Indians were sighted, he stopped the stage,

waved them in, and handed out presents.

In spite of Indian problems, the town grew
rapidly, and in 188?, according to H. C. Roper, "It

was visible to the naked eye."

By I896 there were one

hundred seventy folk, three saloons, a bowling alley,

and several churches.

Two years later the town burned.

Many residences and all but one building on ^nain street

But Antelope was an important place,

went up in smoke.

and it quickly rebuilt, even larger than before.

John Silvertooth, son of the one-time stage
driver, is presently living in a shaded bungalow at

the north edge of Antelope.

John and his wife^ Laur^

remember what Antelope was like at the turn of the
century.

Laura began, "Why^yes, it was the main stop

•tween The Dalles and Canyon City, and a big sheep
shipping point.

at one time.

The population reached two thousand

There were three hotels, three stores,

a rooming house —"

Then John chimed in.

"Three, no,four saloons —

Doyles, Macbeths, and Silvertooths,

place.

That was my father's

Then there was one more — two smithies and a

couple of red-light places.
girls at the one place —*

-19-

There was a madam and two

�N. Weis

Laura helped out on the names, "Pearl and

Flossy — Flossy was the fat one."
John volunteered, "Pearl got sick — appendix.

The doc operated in the drugstore.

That Pearl, she was

good-looking — red hair — real nice looking,"

Laura added, "They buried one of them in our

cemetery.

At first they were against it, but finally

they decided to put her in a lonely corner, where she

couldn’t do any harm,"

In 1900 the railroad,reached Shaniko, a small
town eight miles north of Antelope,

It became an im­

portant ralinhead and lured away most of Antelope’s

major businesses and professional men.

The population

shrank, and most of the stores on mln street became

vacant.

Numerous fires ravaged the unoccupied buildings,

A pitifully small portion of Antelope remains standing
today.

The old Methodist Church, a fraternal hall,

Sllvertooth’s Saloon, and scattered residences offer
evidence of Antelope’s more active moment in history.

Just as Antelope had drawn heavily on Ashwood,
so Shaniko subtracted the life from Antelope,

But

Shaniko was to prosper only briefly, then suffer in
turn a similar fate.

�N. Weis

SHANIKO, OREGON
Bankers in The Dalles decided that the riches

from the large wool-growing area to the south could

best be tapped by railroad.

Galled the Columbia

Southern Railroad, it branched off the main line at

Biggs on the Columbia River, and in I9OO reached the
site of the old Cross Hollows Stage Station and Post

Office.

The station had been operated from 1874 to

1877 by a German immigrant named August Scherneckau.

The Indians trusted Herr Scherneckau in spite of the
wide difference in backgrounds and the resulting

communications problem.

Neither could twist his tongue

around the sounds favored by the other. August used the
rolling r-r-r-r and broad gutt^al vowels of his homelandi

The Indians returned each word with lighter

vowels and evenly valued syllables.

Thus Scherneckau

became Shaniko, and Shaniko was the name chosen for the

new post office established at the railhead.
Quickly a "town of permanence" was built.
larg&lt;^ brick two-story hotel was raised.

with heat available in every room.
of the roof at close intervals’.

A

It was plush,

Chimneys stand out

The corner porch is

broad, fully balustraded^ and supported by white-painted
columns.

-21-

�N. Weis

Across from the hotel a row of stores catered

to the mixed trade, supplying the wants of sheepherders
and ralH^oad men alike,

A fancy two-story firehouse

served also as^meeting place for the town council.

A

school was erected from funds donated, and taxes pa^d

for an elaborate water system.

Shaniko had grown up

to be a fancy town, but it possessed some earthy problems.
Somewhere in history, ’’'shepherd" became

"sheepherder,’’ and much of the attendant respect fell
away,

Cow^men hated them, and mothers feared them.

In

defense of their daughters, the women of Shaniko tol­
erated an elaborsrte red-light district. Shaniko had
thirteen establishments, mostly^^ndly^^ferred t^as

"sporting houses,"
Less than a dozen yea3*is ago, the town was
just a small deserted shipping point.

Then a few news­

papers carried stories about the "quaint and quiet place."
Tourists arrived in large numbers and left with amazing
quantities of "artifacts."

At first the people of

Shaniko objected to such Invasion and were insulted

to have their town classified as a ghost.

But there

was a new future for Shaniko now, a showplace for the
local history, and a watering place for a new kind of

sheep.

The new variety was similar to the original.

-22-

�N. Weis

varying mostly in eating habits, consuming much in the

way of pop, hot dogs and Kodak film.

Tattered but comfortable lounging sofas, and

hard-backed benches line the side of the hotel where
the porch offers shade and view.

Old-timers, mostly

retired sheepherders, make frequent use of these

comforts.

Each seems to have a favored spot from which

he can eye passing tourists from under lowered brim,

A

notably ugly wooden Indian stands guanrd at the hotel

door, viewing visitors with a like reserve.

The schoolhouse at the north edge of town
displays a unique architecture.

Built in 1902, it is

fronted by a tall ventilated octagonal tower,

A flag^

pole ..extends from its upper portion at an angle a bit
up from horizontal.

The building is large and square,

its roof slanting from all sides to a flat top.

Traces

of boardwalk still front the school 'and skirt the dusty
street.

The few children in Shaniko now travel by bus

to the schools at Maupin, thirty-three blacktopped miles
away,
A few blocks west of the old school, a large
rectangular structure dominates the sky.

Resembling

the base of some giant windmill, it woixld place in awe
the bravest Don Quixote,

Inspection shows it to be a

deluxe large-capacity water tower.

Water tanks occupy

the upper levels, and pipes extend downward.
-23-

�N, Weis

Below frostYine they branch in multiple directions.
The school and the hotel both Indicate that
Shaniko was once a much larger town than is evident

today.

But to justify the large water tower, one must

mentally fill in the empty lots that extend for blocks

in all directions, and replace the absent stores on

the intersecting main streets.
With a little imagination, one can hear the

old eight wheeler whistling at the mile marker, and

see the flock of sheep top the rise above town.

-24-

�N. Weis

BOYD,. OREGON
Fifteen Mile Greek carried water enough to

power a mill, and wheat fields extended for miles in
every direction.

It was a proper place to build a

grist-mill and granary,

A little store half a mile

north of the creek crossing had been built in I870,
When the mill was constructed some thirty years later,

the store suddenly found itself the center of a booming
community.

Homes were built, the store was enlarged,

and a blacksmith moved in to set up shop.

Stories

vary as to the existence of a hotel in Boyd,

Some

claim there was just a boarding'~liouse, which has since

burned down.

Others claim the old house at the south

edge of town was used as a hotel for a time. Half a
nineteenth
dozen fancy homes of the 19^ century have lasted well,
A
Under the shade of broad—branched trees they stand,
badly in need of paint, yet proudly displaying sunburst—'

patterned gablesy and stained-glass windows.

Part of

the original store remains^ and is presently in use

as a storage shed, but the outstanding remains of Boyd
are at the mill site, about a half mile to the south.
The town and the mill are both easily reached

via a good gravel road branching east about three and
a half miles north of Du'fur, on U. S, Highway 197,

-25-

�N, Weis

Boyd Is about one-half mile from the highway, and the
mill is immediately south of town.

The Dufur East

minute topograph map shows the location of both sites.
h

At the mill site, waters of Fifteen Mlle Creek

were diverted to a holding pond.

Located above the

mill, with a vertical drop of sixty feet, the water

rushed downward through an eighteen-inch-diameter flume
to make powerful contact with a large waterwheel,

Cog-«i

wheels increased the force by sacrificing speed, then
delivered the power to a slowly revolving stone roller.

As a boy might crush leaves by riding a bicycle in
tight circles, the broad roller crushed grain against
a stationary stone base.

If some ground up rock was

found in the flour, it merely lent a little bod^and
character, say those who lament the present scarcity

of stone-ground flour.
Against the mill lean the remains of old farm
implements, wagons^and cars.

One ancient truck chassis

is bodyless, but its wooden-spoked, solid-rubber-tired
wheels still cap the front axle.

♦

Above the mill is an impressive three-story
rock home.

Occupied originally by the mill'~owner, it

served a second important purpose.

Customers were

entertained while their wheat was ground.
-26-

Overnight

�N. Weis

stays were oommon.

The home is occupied at present,

and water that once powered the mill now sprays

generously on lawn and garden.
The reason

the mill shut down and Boyd

became deserted can only be speculated, -aMMr.

Cer­

tainly a water^wheel-powered roller mill was technically

behind the times shortly after the mill was constructed.
Electricity was soon available andIn most mills, steel

rollers replaced those of stone.

Other mills could

process grain for less, and consequently offer a better
purchase price.

And besides, with a gas-driven truck,

what farmer would pass up a chance to haul his harvest

to the big city, especially If the added return more
than paid for a night on the town.

�N. Weis

OREGON AREA 3

3)

•Thio Unit -Containo
approximatoly-2700 wordsv

PLACER, OREGON

^eo^le are intrigued by maps, especially

large maps.

My map of Oregon was about four by five

feet, and when spread out on a cafe counter, it became
an open invitation to comment.

Before I could com­

pletely unfold the map, someone would generally

Inquire as to where I had been and where I was going
next.

Hopefully, they would point out some little—"
-1-

p/a.ce^

�N. Weis

known site that would turn out to be a ghost town
worth visiting.
That is just what happened at a small
coffee shop In the central Oregon town of Prineville.

The waitress asked, after lifting the corner of the
map to find a place for my coffee, ’’Have you been to

Golden?

I was born there, and the last time I visited

the town It still had a church, some stores, and a few
homes.

The whole place was deserted.

Used to be a

mining town.”

pWe located the town on the map to find that

it was just one of a number of towns, all of which had
the earmarks of long desertion.

Strung out in a line,

north of Grants Pass in southwest Oregon, were Granite

Hill, Forest Queen, Winona, Lucky Queen, Placer,

Greenback, Golden, and Speaker.

It developed that

three of these towns had remnants worth observing and
stories worth telling, but to find the three, I had to

search out all eight.
The Metsker map of Josephine County, and the
U.S.G.S. 15 minute Glendale, Oregon, topographic iiiapZ^&gt;

are both of value| but of little help in finding a way

off the new Interstate.

Turn’'‘bffs, signs, new roads —

nothing agrees with the old maps until you get a few
miles away from the Interstate.

-2-

�N. Weis

A dozen miles up Louse Creek, a triangular
Intersection located the site of Forest Queen.

a cabin or two remained.

Only

One cabin was occupied, and

its owner was quick to agree that the town was
essentially non/exlst^nt, and volunteered that nearby
Granite Hill was the same.

He was right.

Granite

Hill was but a flat spot occupied by a piece of road—

building equipment.
At Winona, a few miles north, the town'^lte

had become the Shady Greek subfdlvision.

Lucky Queen

was merely a mine site, and little was left.

The

dirt road leading north toward Placer deteriorated

quickly to mud_Jioles, then abruptly worsened.

Boulders

replaced the mud, and the grade became steep.

In

places, a four-mlle-per-hour crawl was too fast.
An hour laterthe road leveled and broke

into the open.

about.

A few deserted cabins were sprinkled

The sun had set and it was rapidly darkening.

A lighted window guided me to the home of Mr. and Mrs.

Howard Coome.

They were surprised at the circuitous

route I had used to reach Placer, and I was surprised
to learn that I was in Placer,

The Goomes explained

that the little town of Placer was across the creek

that flowed along side their home, and that it was not
-3-

i^rrytn

�N, Weis

a "remote" community, but located on a blacktop

highway, just four miles from the Sunny Valley
Junction of Interstate 5.
In answer to a multitude of questions, the

Coomes informed me that the town was largely deserted,
but that it was at one time a rather large community.
They further stated that the town was now reduced to

a half-dozen or so structures, but did have two out­
standing features:

an old school and an old-timer.

They thoroughly recommended a visit to both.

The next morning I toured Placer, observing
the few remaining structures along its two parallel
streets, then drove a few miles west to talk with the

old'-timer,

George Arlington Klonus is elghty-flve years

old, of German extraction, and sharper of mind and eye

than most youngsters half his age,
"Sure it was a big town — biggest in the
county for s^hlle.

Had three stores,

them from *32 to *35.

Not sure Just when the town

started, but it wasway before 1900,

up ’til *24,

I ran one of

Had a post office

For a while it was mostly a place for

Blind Pigs,"

I asked for an explanation, and George

Arlington Klonus patiently explained,
-4-

"Speakeasies —

�N, Weis

you know — where the back door was always open — a

few glrls^too.

Sure sold a lot of home’^made whiskey.

More than twenty stills were spread out along the
creek.

One old fellow used to put glycerine in his

moonshine to make it smoother.

Pound him one day —

dead — sittin* in his rocking chalrl"
Mr. Klonus was Clerk of the School District

for a while — "up 'til the last family with kids moved
out of town.

That was three months after school started

so the teacher just sat on the steps and collected pay,"

The lack of buildings in town puzzled me
until George explained.

"Most of them burned.

afire, we thought, by just one guy.

Set

He was always

stealing firewood — never cut his own, and always had
plenty.

Had a habit of knocking his pipe out — didn't

even realize he was doing it.

We know he burned down

hisr own cabin and three others, maybe more."

—----- There is an old covered bridge a mile west
of George's home.

The date of construction is somewhat

vague, but it was one of the early bridges on the

Applegate Trail.

Rebuilt in 1925. It looks brand new.

George recommended the bridge and the town of Golden
————--as being worthy of a visit, and espoially endorsed the
old community of Greenback, just up the hill a ways.

-5-

�N. Weis

"That Greenback was a fine place.

The mine

always had plenty of fellows wanting work there —
good high-gradin’ — twenty-five dollars a day easy

no trick at all to pocket a few of the best chunks —some of ’em near pure gold.

No saloons there so they

all came to Placer to spend It."

Speaker, the last of the string of eight
towns, was quickly evaluated by George Arlington Klonus

as "underwhelming."

I crossed It off my list.

�N, Weis

GRESMBAGK, OREGON
The mineralized stretch of ground connecting
Placer, Greenback, and Golden is thickly shot with

mines.

The Star, Gold Cup, Yellowhom, Jim Blaine,

Martha, and even the Shot Mine, have punched deep holes

in search of gold.
Ed Hanham and his partner discovered one of

the richest.

Called the Greenback Mine, it proved

rich enough to require its own mill.

The heavy metal

parts for a twenty-stamp mill were hauled three miles
up the steep^winding road^ extending north from Placer.
into twenty-fouh-hour
When completed, it immediately went^itebft^^feiwjimoperation and required a crew of twenty men.

Cabins were

built to make work at the mill and mine more attractive

Soon a company store was added.

In 1902, Greenback

became officially a town when a post office was

authorized.

It lasted only six years, but during that

time many fortunes were made.

"Everyone that worked there went away rich,"
stated one former resident.

The owners finally stopped

all but the most Ingen^tous hlgh'-graders by requiring
miners to change clothes at the end of each shift.
No liquor was permitted in the company town

of Greenback,

The road to Placer was well worn.

�N. Weis

Miners made frequent trips to relieve the Itch of

money.

Their horses knew the way and often returned

to stand at the hitching rail In Greenback while

drivers and passengers, unaware their destination
had been reached, continued to sleep off the effects

of their celebration.
The road to Greenback Is In poor shape now.

It Is best to walk the last mlley^ as there Is deep mud
along the final stretch.

Heavy grout foundations, an

old log skid, and a few stamp lifters are at the burned
over mill site.

The stamp lifters, heavy double cams

of cast metal, show the reason for their abandonment.
Rectangular recesses, where locking keys once held them

firmly to the driving axle, are worn to Ineffectual

smoothness.

The shrinking evolution of the mining

effort since the rich veins petered out In the early
1900’s
•^ilnotoon hundrodc can be pieced together by observing
the age and size of the ore buckets scattered about
the premises.
A small ball mill has been erected next to

the remains of the old mill.

operations.

It has also ceased

Beside the mlllpa number of ore cars

stand on rusty wheels.

One car carries a comparatively

fresh sign stating "Jos. Sourdoughs Co.," a name

undeniably appropriate.

-8-

�N. Weis

Adjacent to the newer mill are a few of the
original mine shacks of Greenback.

They are presently

used for equipment storage and are securely locked.

A

lonely out3iouse stands a short distance from the storage

sheds.

A continuous stream, from an artesian well, is

directed under considerable pressure against the out-^

house door, effectively prohibiting its use.

The water

then flows down the road from Greenback, transforming
a dirt road to a tree~lined lane of mudj|L — two feet
deep.

Far-reaching, and better than a locked gate,

it prevents easy access and precludes any possibility
of heavy equipment being stolen.

-9-

�N. Weis

GOLDEN, OREGON
There was gold to be found in the gravel of
Coyote Creek, but It was finely divided and thinly

scattered.
hand.

A man could hardly make wages panning by

The few miners sticking It out on Coyote Creek

were- quick to Join the 1850 rush to the new find on
the Salmon River.

As the white man left, Chinese moved

in to take over the deserted claims. Soon there were
more than (5^ spread out along the length of Coyote
Greek.

It took only a few years to skim the cream

of rich deposits at the Salmon find.

Soon the thin

deposits at Coyote Creek began to look good by compari­

son, especially in the light of new placering techniques.
The Chinese were quickly run off and old claims
were reoccupied.

Hydraulic placering was soon tried

and found profitable.

The word spread and more miners

came to stake claims.

The community slowly grew as

Coyote Greek continued to release its treasure.
150
There were more than one-jmndred fi#ty-people

living along the creek in 1892.

The time had come to

organize.

A "Campbellite" ^hurch was built that year.
Soon a carriage house was

opened for business.

.''and a general ^tore

In I896 the town was formally
-10-

�N. Weis

recognized, and a post office opened under the name of
"Golden. '*

By all reason, they should have named the

town "Ruble City,"

The first minister was William Ruble

later replaced by his son, W. N. Ruble.

Schuyler Ruble

was the first postmaster, and S. C. Ruble was active in
the local mining effort.

He was the inventor of the

Ruble elevator, a device designed to remove unwanted
gravel from stream beds.

general ^tore.

S. C. Ruble also ran the

S. C. Ruble and Schuyler Ruble may

have been the same person.

If so, he was obviously

talented and busy.
It must have been a red-letter day when stored
keeper Ruble turned his duties over to a man named

something other than Ruble,
Columbus Bennett,

The new storekeeper was

Ruble was Bennett's uncle.

Later,

Harold McIntosh ran the store, but of course Bennett
was McIntosh's uncle.

Coyote Smith was appointed Justice of the
Peace, and apparently was unrelated to the Rubles,

Justice must remain aloof and untainted.
The schoolhouse was in operation about a
half mile down the creek to the west.

On Sundays it

served as a church, with the Reverend Mark David offi­
ciating.

Sinners had little chance in Golden,
-11-

Two

�N. Weis

churches and no saloons.

Perhaps that Is why

neps

lived strung out down the valley.

Golden today consists of a church, carriage

house, the old store, several old homes, and numerous
shacks scattered along the stream bed.

It is easily

reached, just four miles east of Wolf Creek on the

Coyote Creek Road.
Mr. and Mrs. Orville Cornwell own much of

the ghost town now, and are living in one old residence
while they properly recondition another.

Their future

home is a handsome one and nicely intact where it was

protected by a metal roof.
an open-air motif,

Elsewhere it has more of

I stepped through a large opening

in the rear porch and was immediately met by two

squirrels moving at high speed and headed for the
nearest tree,

I stepped through a doorway into the

old living room.

There, to the right, was an old stove

resting on a metal floor protector.

Standing upon the

broad metal sheet was a third squirrel.

He reacted

quickly, his hind legs moving faster than the smooth

surfaces could accommodate.

His speed built up slowly,

and he headed toward the door, making a smooth turn to

miss my feet.

As he approached, his rear legs were

beginning to slide toward the outside of his turn, but
he continued without deceleration, and passed me going

�N. Weis

broadside, his rear "wheels" still spinning, his head

turned sharply in the direction of the skid.

His rear

end was slightly ahead as he passed through the door.
Then with a wobble of over-«correction, he reached top

speed and lined away for the nearest tree.
The Golden Community Church is a classic,

ranking with those in Richmond, Oregon, and Atlantic

City, Wyoming.
shape.

Rebuilt in 1950, it is in excellent

The bell is still in its tower, but only

because of a watchful neighbor.
Not long ago, when the town appeared deserted,

a man drove quietly into town, parked his pickup close

beside the churchj.and unloaded an extension ladder.
The Interloper proceeded to climb to the belfry,

carrying a block and tackle slung across his shoulder.
Unaware that he was observed, he loosened the ventilating

boards,

BONGI

The bell rang.

It rang so loud that

the sound of shot and ricochet was hardly detectable.

But the would-be thief knew he was in trouble.

Either

the hand of God was poised to strike again, or someone

was shooting in his direction.

He left town with little

dignity and much alacrity.
Eighty—year-old Harold McIntosh, one-time
operator of the general s/tore,*^and long-time resident

-13-

�N. Weis

of Golden, lives a quarter mile northeast of town In
Rohlnson s Gulch, alongside one of the finest strawberry
patches In Oregon,

He Is a willful, honest man.

He may

fracture a word here and there, but the meaning Is
always clear,

I Introduced myself, and asked, "Harold

McIntosh, I believe?"
With just the faintest twinkle In his eye,
he replied, "Well ,,,,mostly,"

We talked strawberries

and weather for a while, then got down to serious history,

Harold McIntosh mined Robinson Gulch with

his own Giants (hydraulic gunspouring out a mighty
stream.

"We

Three men helped him with the operation,

got some gold — but It wasn’t so good.

Not as good

as Coyote Creek — they took out millions there.

Used

to get seventeen dollars an ounce — In 1933 It went up

to thirty-five dollars.

The gold was nine hundred fine,"

I asked If It was true that Golden had no

saloon,
"Never had a saloon, but they all dralnk
sort of ’no whiskey - no mining,’

Never saw anyone

drunk, though,"
Business was good when Harold ran the store,

"Had to build on a lean—to — needed more room.

That

was about the time they were tearing down some of the
houses to get the gold beneath them,"
-14-

He paused, then

�N, Weis

grinned and went on.

store.

"Used to hold dances at the

Church wouldn’t allow it.

I finally gave up

and built a dance hall down at Wolf Creek.

Had real

good times there, but church folk still gave me trouble.

Used to parade around the dance hall prayin’ away the
devil — was fanatakism — pure fanataklsm."

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                    <text>Part II

•I’;'

■■

-.■'jf-.■...■■&gt;

�N. Weis

WASHINGTON AREA 1
t a T y J O 0 0 - WO 1^. S

LIBERTY,

WASHINGTON

11

’~The sun disappeared behind Teenaway Ridge

on my left.
curves.

Highway 97 continued to climb in broad

Horizons lowered as altitude was gained

The sun reappeared frequently, offering brief post/
ponements to the day’s end.

The road leveled and

the sun set for good as I pulled into Liberty Guard

Station,

fifteen miles northeast of Cle Elum in

-1-

�N. Weis

central Washington.

A brief look at the topographic

maps showed that I had passed the Liberty turn'^ff a

quarter of a mile back.

Liberty is located at the

joining edges of the Liberty and Thorp,

Washington^l5

minute maps and the maps have to be matched to make
out the route.

I reached the turn'"'

Retracing my

off and headed east up Williams Creek,
occasional glimpses of quiet pools.

enjoying

Windrowed gravel

banks Indicated the area had been placered heavily.

The last traces were the obvious result of a dredging
operation.

A short two miles from the highway,

the

road crossed Lion Creek, angled slightly right, and
suddenly became the main street of Liberty.

A sign on the left read "For Sale,

Claims,

Cabins."

of the street,

Mining

There were old cabins on both sides

and just visible across the valley was

a string of mining shacks.

My maps indicated that

two tunnels and three shafts were to be found near

the mine shacks.

of town.

The road divided at the upper end

The right fork dead-ended in a quiet clear­

ing, and I made camp for the night.

Making camp was

simply a matter of jockeying the truck about until
two spirit levels were satisfied.

mounted at right angles.

The levels are

One indicates fore and aft

-2-

�N.

slant — the other shows my "roll attitude."
to do a bit of reading,

Weis

I planned

so this night I parked with a

quarter bubble on the left of the level to raise the
head of the bed.

It was a peaceful spot.

The waters of tiny

Boulder Greek rushed by a few feet away.

It was

quite a relief to be camped by a genuine ghost town,
after suffering through three days of high expectations

and dashed hopes.
Reviewing my notes,

appointments In a row.

I counted seven dis­

First there was Maryhill,

south-central Washington.

Once a going town.

In

It had

degenerated Into an orchard and truck farm.

An old

store stood alone among young fruit trees.

Part of

two old ferries were at the banks of the Columbia

River,

put to disuse by a new highway bridge.

On the

hill above town, a replica of England's Stonehenge

seemed strangely out of place.

A few miles away,

the Maryhill Museum overlooked the Columbia from a

lofty perch on the north bank.

of Interest,

Inside were many Items

mostly art objects and European royal

family relics.

It was a fascinating museum,

but not

a single Item pertained to the old town of Maryhill.

Both the Stonehenge memorial and the museum were

-3-

�N. Weis

built by Samuel Hill,

a

famous pioneer in road building.

I speculated as I drove away that many visitors to the
two sites must have departed with the same thought:

"What in Sam Hill?"
Thorp,

one hundred miles north,

next on the list.

shrunk,

town.

had been

Bypassed by the highway,

it had

but was still too lively to be called a ghost
The old water—powered flour mill at the north

end of town was fascinating.
swimming in the mill pond,

Complete with kids

it was a sight guaranteed

to transport the beholder to the time of his childhood.

I would have joined them had I packed a swimTsuit.

One of^the youngsbers offered the loan of his!
To the north,

Greek,

Lester,

investigation,

town.

the towns of Easton,

Cabin

Ronald and Cle Elum all warranted
but failed to fit the category of ghost

With mild irritation I recalled my troubles

with a loud and perslsV^nt cafe operator who ranted
so continuously that no one could mount a response.

He badgered me to buy something or he "wouldn’t answer

a damn question!"

I ordered coffee,

handed it back to him with the

paid for it,

s u ggestion that he

drink it, and treat the customers to a few seconds
of blissful quiet.

then

�N. Weis

And that reminded me of the quiet that
permeated my campsite at Liberty.

I was again relaxed,

anxious only for the next day to arrive.
The morning was cool, and the skies were

clear overhead. A few puffy clouds were climbing over
the hills to the west.

The conditions were ideal for

photographing the old mine shacks that extended down
the south side of the valley.

The first cabin was

securely locked with a hasp of unique construction.
A large saw blade,

hinged at one end,

entire width of the door.

spanned the

A square hole,

burned through with a cutting torch,

obviously

allowed a U-bolt

to be exposed far enough for a gigantic padlock to

pass through its eye,

A long

rear marked the beginning of a tunnel.

shed at the

The shoring

was rotted and collapsing,
A bit fjlrther west was a smaller shack with

a vertical mine shaft located in its center.

There

was barely room to stand inside between the walls and
the shaft.

A shaky rotted ladder extended downward

beyond view.

There was no hoisting wheel mounted

above the shaft, and no evidence of one ever having

been installed.

Perhaps the old shaft was used merely

as an inside cooler for food storage.

A horizontal

tunnel penetrated the hill a few yards from the shack.

�N. Weis

An eighth of a mile downstream was a small
building with lots of character.

Some of its wid®

roof boards had warped to near rain-gutter proportions.

A ramshackle rear stoop was on its last legs.
door was battened shut,

but part of the south wall

I poked my head inside,

was missing.

The

and after a

moment getting used to the dim light,

I made out a

wooden floor and some old furniture.

One step inside

was enough.

With a hollow groan,

the floor sagged

like a trampoline.

I could make out a large trap'^

door in the center.

Another shaft,no doubt.

a rock onto the trap~}ioor.

I tossed

The punky empty sound

demonstrated that further exploration would be fool^
hardy.

The solid earth outside felt reassuring.

Behind this cabin were a number of shafts nearly
hidden by heavy brush.

Some were covered with three—

inch-diameter poles too rotted to support one’s
weight.

Their partial collapse indicated that some

ipnwary creature had broken through.

attest^to
The numerous shafts and tunnels indicated
A

a considerable hard*rock mining effort,
a vain effort,

but it was

for most of the gold taken in the

area was placered from Williams Greek,

-6-

�N. Weis

In 1867,

Benton Goodwin,

the first sizeable gold deposit.

a deaf-mute,

found

He uncovered a two-r-^

dollar nugget at the junction of Swauk and Williams
ireek*^ when he kicked over some rocks to make it

'

a''/,

easier to gather cooking water.

Greatly excited,

he

put the nugget in his mouthy and ran squawking back
to campj

Members of the party panned gold furiously

all summer.

Some pans ran to one thousand dollars,

and a good gravel bar yielded up to six hundred dollars

per day.

Inevitably, word leaked out, and miners

poured in.
The first community established was called

Meaghersville, and was located at the site of the
original discovery.

As gold was panned out and the

hot activity moved up^ream,
convenience.

camps were moved for

The town migrated two miles up Williams

Creek to its present position.
the
slacked, and^Chlnese moved in.

By 1884 the boom had

A few years later,

white miners held mass meetings and demanded the
Chinese leave.

It had been determined that hydraulic

operations would pay off, and deserted claims were
again valuable.
Scott Darling opened a store in I892,

"everything you could want - Miners supplies,

-7-

selling

fishbait.

�N.

Weis

A post office was

gum boots, and bug juice."

established and the town was officially designated

"Liberty."

Liberty was^X^w^^ij^ deserted in 189? when
the Yukon ^trlke lured most miners away.

dredge was brought In from Sumpter,

activities boomed again.

Some wire gold in

but the big lode was never tapped.

During the depression,
to

a few hard-up miners moved in

"pan wages," but pockets miss

were rare.

Oregon, and

Hard rockers s^nk shafts

in search of the mother lode.
quartz was found,

In 1925 a

by the dredges

Slowly, Liberty became deserted.

Scattered throughout town are relics typical
of the various booms that Liberty enjoyed.

The oldest

are probably the log structures that dot both sides
the
o:^maln street for nearly a quarter mile.

A number of the cabins were used for a time
as places of business.
and repair.

disrepair.

On some,

Many show signs of loving care
the repairs are falling in

Sheets of metal roofing placed over scant

shingles are loose and floppy.

Thick butt shakes have

been tacked over the metal and now they are falling

away.

-8-

�N.

Weis

A water-|whe el-powered rotary goldiwasher

rests Intact at the east edge of town.

A small ditch

still carries a minimal flow of water to the wooden

trough that in turn feeds the water to the upper

portion of the wooden wheel.

The wheel stands about

twelve or fourteen feet high and is equipped with
perhaps four dozen slanted boards that catch the flow

of water.

An iron axle transports the power to a

series of belts and chains which result in not only

turning the drum, but in powering a small endless belt.
The belt lifts the gold-*-bearing gravel from the bln to

the mouth of the drum, where it is treated with water
and agitated.

Unwanted gravel flows out the far end

of the drum like concrete from an over'^ull ready-mix
truck.

Periodically the drum is scoured and the gold

concentrate is panned out by hand.

At the west end of town there is another
gold washer.

Built to more modern specifications,

operates on the same principle,
Diesel engine,

it

but is powered by a

and appears to have a capacity hundreds

of times that of its counterpart across town.

It was in Liberty that the "Incident of the
rock" supposedly occurred.

repeated,

A favorite story, and often

it has a number of variations’*"^] .j. i. The

-9-

�N,

grizzled old prospector,

Weis

tired after ten hard hours

spent on the blister end of a pick, was contentedlyeating his home-cooked supper.

A two-ton rock came flying through the

happenedI
roof,

smashed the table flat, and drove It,

and all,
stew,

That's when It

clear through the floor.

boiling mad,

but unhurt,

supper

Spattered with

the old gentleman sat

then he rose,

swiped the stew from

his face^and ystalked outside.

He planted his feet

there a moment,

wide and firm.

canyon,

With a voice heard for miles down the

he bellowed^ &lt;tv^'A11 right, dammlt‘^~^who

threw It?"

-10-

�N. Weis

BLEWETT, WASHINGTON
There are a number of historical accounts

I read two of them

concerning the town of Blewett.
and found little agreement.

A third account sided

with neither of the first two,

hence the vague nature

chosen because they were

of the following few items,

consistent in some small measure.

Gold in quartz or nugget form was found by
a soldier,

perhaps a captain,

in 185^ or (^5.

The

The area was noted either

town started about 1861.

for its small nuggets found only near bedrock,

or its

thousand-dollar nugg^gfB^ found nearly everywhere.
About 187^,

nearby Culver Gulch.

gold in quartz was found in

The veins ran narrow and rich,

or up to eight feet wide.

In 1880,

the action slowed

and the town died — or — the place was a boomer until

1890, when the rush was in full swing!

A twenty-stamp

mill was built in 1879 by the Chelan Mining Co.

For

a while it turned out ten thousand gold bricks a week.

Some of the facts are obviously "Chamber of
Commerce."

Like the ten thousand bricks a week.

Any

gold brick worth its name weighs at least thirty

pounds and was worth,

in 1890, about ten thousand dollars.

Now ten thousand bricks a week adds up to one hundred
iaillion dollars in gold per week — far more than the

-11-

�N.

Weis

area’s lifetime production.
Blewett’s past is hidden behind a disastrous

fire, and the destruction of most of the surviving
buildings by construction of a highway through town.

Later the highway was made wider,

and Blewett’s visible

trace of history became even narrower.
About all one can be sure of in Blewett/

is that the site is located twenty-one miles north
of Liberty, and if you don’t look clos^ you will miss

it.

Four buildings remain on the north side of

the road,

two of them original structures of Blewett.

One is said to have been a shoemaker’s establishment,
the other a wood shed.

Across the highway are two

structures of more obvious background.

One,

an old

stamp mill,

shows that four bays of stamps were once

in action.

A bay of stamps was traditionally five

stamps.

Near the mill is the old smithy,

with a few

items of original gear still within.
What makes a visit to Blewett worthwhile

is the marvelous old stone arrastra.

ore crusher,

built in 1861 or 18?^,

been water*^ower driven.

This drag^stone

is said to have

The explanation seems likely,

since it is located adjacent to Peshastln Creek.

-12-

Much

�N, Weis

of the ore from the earlier shafts and tunnels was
processed here for a percentage of the gold retrieved.

Dozens of prospect holes and horizontal
tunnels can be found within a mile or so of Blewett.

According to the Liberty,
topographic map,

Washington,

15 minute

more than a dozen tunnels are located

in Culver Gulch immediately behind the old mill.

-13-

�N, Weis

DISAUTEL, WASHINGTON

Disautel stands alone,

far removed from the

other ghost towns visited in the state of Washington.
It is not shown on the area map at the beginning of
the chapter, but may be located on the Disautel,

Washington,

15 minute topographic map.

gravel road 155 heads

in north-central Washington,

east.

In fifteen miles,

the right (south),

From Omak,

a lesser road branches to

crosses

Omak Creek, and Immediately

branches into the various streets of Disautel.
To the left is a huge garage,

a number of residences,

and beyond are

one of them occupied.

The

road to the right leads past a row of look-alike homes,
by
then windsa number of residences of mixed vintage.
On the hill is a strange-looking structure.

It appears

to be a small store with a gabled false front complete
with a pointless window that opens to^e air in both

directions.
Louis Whlstocken^who lives in town, was
happy to talk about the history of Disautel,

and to

discuss the nature of its remnants.
The funny structure on the hill was not a
store,

but the rear wall and wash house of a home that

had been partially dismantled.

The large building in

the center of town was once a barn for logging teams,

then a garage for logging trucks.

Louis explained^

�N.

Weis

that the trucks put many of the loggers out of work.

A railroad once carried logs from Disautel to the
sawmill at Omak.

When the area was logged out,

the

j^lghway department used the garage for housing road

.

.

Highway Department
Later, when the Statfee moved
A
Only two families remained.

.

maintaining equipment.
out,

the town died.

Louis Whistocken is a handsome man of

Indian ancestry.

His last name was his dad’s first

name, and meant "walk on the arm."

in spite of his name, was a very

add that his father,

wel]»educated man.

Louis hastened to

Louis*

main interest was rodeo,

until he got bent up.

"Busted my knees a few times

had three specialties,

steer ropin’,

bull doggin’ and

saddle bronc. Used to win my share of prize money
even after my knees gave out."

On the way out of town I came upon two

more bronc busters.

The meeting was a near collision.

It looked like I would head them off at the bridge^ but

at the last moment^ the two young riders veered their

mounts sharply and headed for the stream.
speed,

At full

they flew over the backs of their ponies and

splashed heavily in the water.

Shortly,

they both

emerged, laughing — each hanging on to his pony’s
tail,

enjoying a tall drag onto dry land.

they galloped off,

Remounted,

then turned and headed back to

$

�N. Weis

repeat their performance.
stepped out,

I stopped the truck and

camera In hand.

The encore was out­

The third go-round was even better, and

standing,

the fourth performance rated a cold bottle of pop

all around.
We sat on the tailgate of my truck and

talked,

Dave was twelve and Leon was fourteen.

were brothers,

sharing the last name of St.

They

Peter.

Their father had been killed riding saddle bronc at

a rodeo a few years back.

In spite of this,

the two

boys both plan to become championship rodeo hands,

Dave pointed out the old Brooks residence

just across the creek.

It was

aroundLeon chimed in,

"the ghostiest place

"We stayed over there

once — clear after it got dark — scared us — it

sure is haunted!•

I looked back as I drove away,

I could

see the two of them shaking up the last of their pop •
then thumbing the stream of foam carefully against
their tongues

t, .-ryand each other.

�N. Weis

’’The wooded slopes and fractured ridges that
make up the Okanogan Highlands in north-central Wash­

Here

ington constitute a ghost town hunter’s paradise.
within a few miles of the Canadian bo3?der, are the
remains of four ghost towns.

Born of a short-lived

mining boom, they maintained a shaky existence through
1900’s
'

the early

hundroda as agricultural communities

A

-1-

Le/afJi

�N. Weis

The last to die was Molson,

correctly,

the three Molsons.

or more

The story is unbelievable,

but thoroughly documented,
John Molson,
promoter,

investor, and George Meacham,

decided to combine their respective funds

and talents to create a town.

Molson,

the man with

the money,

had large sums invested in the Poland China

Gold Mine.

The mine was located high on the North Pork

of Mary Ann Creek,

just two milesof the Canadian

border, and not considered a fit site for the town.
A flat area four miles west of the mine was selected,

and the town laid out.

Named for Molson, but never

graced by his presence,

the town grew from nothing

in 1900 to a population of three hundred in one year.

Then the town nearly died when Meacham,

the promoter,

had a bad hassle with the new town fathers and left
for Texas,
In the first year^ the promoters had invested

seventy-five thousand dollars.

A drug'^store was built,

and a dentist and a lawyer set up practice.

The

Molson Magnate was to have printed up the first

paper.

Perhaps a few issues were run off the presses,

but no one recalls ever having seen a copy,

-2-

�N. Weis

The ornate three-story Tonasket Hotel was
the big drawing card.

It had a full-glass front, and

a wrap-around second-story ballustrade.

More than

sixty full-height windows gave the three_story
structure an impressive appearance.

The two outboard

windows on the false front were strictly decoration.
They smacked of empty promotion, as did brochures

showing steamboats coming up Baker River to dock near
the hotel.

Baker Creek was in reality the seepage

of a few springs a mile to the south.

Ore deposits at the Poland China were thinning,

and Molson suffered.
to be doomed.
In 1904-,

W. W.

For several years the town seemed

Then a trickle of homesteaders appeared.

Parry built a store and grain warehouse.

Rumors of a railroad were widely spread in 1905, and

a new j/ercantile went into business.
crews did,

in fact,

The railroad

builjK the tracks right past town.

Eight saloons grew from the ground overnight "like

mushrooms," and a deputy was hired.

The town was

booming and lots were selling at a premium.

J. H.

McDonald filed his homestead.

Then

No one had

bothered about land ownership, and Old McDonald

had a farm of considerable wealth after he planted
the corners of his legally allotted one hundred sixty
A
acres.
His quarter section of land Included forty
acres of Molson,

Hotel Tonasket included I

-3-

Molson,

Washington

�N. Weis

Legal notices to vacate were posted, and

lawsuits led to countersuits.

Storekeeper Parry

considered the situation hopeless,

mercantile half a mile north.

and built a new

Sev/Cal businesses

followed, and a new residential area was created.
Lots in the new Molson had the advantage of uncontested

ownership.

By 1906, New Molson and Old Molson were of

equal size and temperament.
Arguments never stopped, and fislfYights

were common occur^nces.

A gun fight was threatened

once when a resident named Sutherland complained of
his neighbor's pigs trespassing on his property.

Sutherland met his adversary in the middle of Main
- .45«s.
Street, with two loaded^forty-^ives-.
He offered one
A
to his opponent, but was refused.
The fight was a

failure, but the pig problem was permanently resolved.
By 1908,

of Molson.
a bank.

McDonald had fenced in the old town

That year,

Mr. L. L. Work decided to build

He chose Old Molson, but could not gain legal

ownership of a suitable plot of ground,

so the bank

was built on skids in the middle of Main Street.

It

opened for business a different place each morning.
Finally a lot was designated and the bank was

ceremoniously planted.

Procedures were temporarily

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�N. Weis

1nterupted when the participants paused to watch,
then take part in one of the better street fights in

Molson’s history.
( Miraculously,

in 1914 the two enemy camps

combined efforts "for the good of our kids," and
built a three-story brick schoolhouse.

It had a

gymnasium in the basement, and steam heat in every
room,

but the two outhouses were still placed out

back as a sanitary measure.
Built precisely half way between the two

towns, the school became the nucleus of a third town.
Those tired of fighting in the name of town pride were

quick to build homes and places of business in "Center
Molson."

Potter built a mercantile, and Dunn built a

fancy theater.

Addition of a barbershop and pool hall

made the new "town" the entertainment spa of the

surrounding territory.
The two extremes of Molson continued to
fight.

one.

If one had a new dance hall,

the other built

When an auto dealer began to sell /Oakland^ in

Old Molson, a dealership was quickly established in

New Molson selling ^Maxwells.'*

Proud owners drove

to Center Molson to compare notes.

the post office,

Old Molson had

so New Molson opmpaigned to have one

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�N. Weis

of their citizens elected postmaster.

They succeeded

in 1920, but Old Molson citizens wouldn’t give up the

post office.

When the old postmaster went to lunch,

a few New Molsonites stole the works and moved it to
"its rightful location,"

The fights and arguments continued into
the twenties,

but they were largely academic,

since

all three towi^ were shrinking due to Improved trans­
portation and removal of the railroad.

happens when business fails,

As often

the hotels and stores

A few of the stores struggled

burned down one by one.

on for a number‘of years.

One of them lasted until

1955.

The railroad tracks have been removed, but
access to the various Molsons is still easy.

The

road east from Oroville is a good blacktopped secondary.

Fifteen miles out,

a gravel road branches to the left.

About six miles north on this road stand the remains
of* the three Molsons,

The^^t^

Bonaparte,

Washington,

15 minute map shows the layout of the Molsons as well

as Ghesaw,

Bolster, and Havlllah.
Now,

in 1970, all of the stores in the three

Molsons are closed and the school is deserted.

Only

a handful of people are left to carry on the fight,
and they seem to be uninterested.

-6-

�N. Weis

At old Molson,

three buildings have been

Among them is the old bank building.

preserved.

Fully equipped with memorabilia of the times,

it is

an excellent museum of the early I9OO agricultural
era.

Surrounding the old bank is a multitude of

ancient farm machinery.

powered tractors,

steam—-'"
and
*—&gt;
reapers, cultivators#
A
f

Horse powered saws,

threshers,

are there.
At New Molson,

or just plain Molson,

a

T-shaped intersection is lined with nearly a dozen
Outstanding are the Pratt

substantial buildings.

and Chamberlin two---story rock or concrete structures

that were built in 1913.

On the corner is the G, L.

Diamond S^^re with a sign in front stating "For Sale,
Inquire wihln or ...."and that is all.

Fire Axs

destroyed part of the interior, but much of the
&lt;

AL*'*------ -

1/

counterwork and some scattered merchandise ts- still
inside.

Next to the Diamond Store is a wood and

metal building that is still full of old hardware.
Nails,

rusty bolts,

bent gutter work and other

worthless items are strewn all about.
the front reads

The sign on

"McCoys Cash Store — Meats and

Groceries ,"

-7-

ar

�N. Weis

A hundred yards south of the Diamond Store
is the quaint old broad-porched headquarters build­

ing of the Eastern Okanagan Telephone Company.

Its

picturesque multl-paned front ^Indow and pompous

false front make it the classic structure of Molson,
Center Molson has the school and grange

hall.

The school has a T^Vj antenna on its roof,

and cord after cord of weathered firewood stacked at

its foundation.

The basketball court is still in the

school basement.

It isn’t hard to Imagine a game in

progress.

Bitter enemies must have gathered here to

sit in close proximity.

Perhaps they even joined

together momentarily to give three cheers for the
Molson basketball team.

-8-

aJ th.

�N.

Weis

GHSSAW, WASHINGTON
Ten miles east of the Molson Jiinction,
the banks of Meyers Greek,

on

stands the town of Chesaw.

Once the prime rival of the Molsons,

It has been

reduced by time and fire to a precious few buildings,
A country store continues in operation and a dozen or

so people live nearby.

July,

Once a year,

on the Fourth of

up to six thousand people flock to the famous

Chesaw Fair and Hodeo, and Chesaw looks like its old
self again --but on this quiet summer day,

only one

car was parked on Main Street,
Beyond the little general store is a small

log structure that has been converted to a double­

In 1900,

doored garage.

"Home Millinery" shop.

this was Minnie Carpenter’s
In its display windows the

latest feathered fashions were changed as rapidly as
styles required.

There were several other hat shops,

among them "Mrs,

Commodore Johnson's Millinery Shop,"

where the tastes of the younger generation were counted

North of Minnie’s Millinery is the false-

fronted Townsite Building,

Once there was a bold

sign along its flank reading "TOWNSITE OFFICE" indi­

cating it was a real^estate office,
perhaps both.

or town halli

Between the Townsite Building and

-9-

�N.

Weis

Minnie’s is the largest remaining building in Chesaw,
It has been used for a number of purposes,

best remembered as the Chesaw Bank.

but is

Later it was

the town’s post office, and more recently it has

served as a residence.
One of the first mining services offered
in Chesaw was that of assayer,

J.

P. Blaine.

His

small smelter and laboratory building stands on the

right side of the street at the extreme north end

of town.

The hipped-roofj^square-log structure is

plumb and sound of wall,

but its shingles are blowing

away in batches, and the lean-to shed behind is in Ou
shambles.

The tree that stands behind matches the

'

building, With sturdy trunk topped with broken limbs

and

dead

branches,
A quarter mile north of town are the squat

remains of a two—story log and frame house.
beautiful home,

Once a

it now presents a study in angularity.

The left gable leans out.

The ridge'^ole has broken

and permitted the roof to drop at the center.

One

comer has sunk and carried one side of the entry

cubic^ with it,

creating another set of distortions

from the vertical,
Chesaw was named after ”Chee-Saw," an early

Chinese settler who took an Indian wife and settled

JL 0 ***

�N. Weis

near a commonly traveled ford on Meyers Greek.

In

the 1800*s visitors to Ghee-Saw’s Ford spotted some
traces of gold in the creek.

Word of the gold spread,

but since the area was in the Golvllle Indian Reser­
vation,

no prospecting was allowed.

In I896, with

morals adjusted to fit the pocketbook,

the white man

opened half the /i^eservation to mineral claims.

Promptly,

a»ory good pasturesand fieldswere taken

by whites^ as placer claims.

The town"~site of Ghesaw

was laid out on land obtained by filing a half-dozen
Some honest mineral claims

false claims side by side.
t

were made,

however,

on outcrops that looked promising.

Iron and copper were the first ores taken in hard-'^
rock operations,

the

Ast er,

Gonslderable iron has come from

'’^Polaris,

and the /Roosevelt

placer^old was "spotty,"

The

One claim might yield

eighty dollars a pan, and twenty feet away another
claim would be worthless.
The ^Gold Axe*- on Buckhorn Mountain was

the first to produce gold from hard rock.

Eventually

high-grade ore was produced in quantity, and mills

were built at the north edge of Ghesaw and at a

road

junction about three miles to the south.
By 1900 Ghesaw was a sizeable log community

of two hundred population.

-11-

It grew rapidly into a

�N. Weis

full-blown town with two three-story frame hotels, and

a population (on a Saturday night, and counting dogs)

ahe-—
that neared the/^thousand mark.

Josh Clary's
saloon In town.

"Greenwood" was the busiest

Fred Fine’s paper,

//he Meyers Creek

Ne^,\ aligned Itself solidly with the editorial
policies

of the Republican ^arty, and printed a little

news on the side.

The-Barker Hotel burned in I906,

and @years

lateri three more of the town's larger buildings were
destroyed. *
y^burned^
Mining operations were dropping off as lodes

were depleted.

The Greenwood Saloon was sold and

converted toca church.
roof,

A steeple was tacked’on the

extending only slightly above the saloon's

false front.

In the twenties,

the automobile led people

to the bigger towns, and Chesaw declined at an
increasing rate.

Many buildings were scavenged,

Pires racked the town in I950 and again in 1959.

But the population of Chesaw is now

increasing.

Recently a couple bought the old eight-"^

sided silo behind the general store.

Stained a

dark brown and fitted with a spiral staircase
and handsome front door,

it makes a proper summer

home.

p.

-12-

�N, Weis

BOLSTER, WASHINGTON
D.

Drill»

G.

Jenkins was the editor of the Bolster

Generally outspoken, he was particularly acidic

as he wrote his last editorial.

He had learned why so

few subscriptions had been bought.

the paper.

Most

borrowed

Some even split the cost and passed the

paper around.

Editor Jenkins wrote»

To those upon

whose backs a fungus growth sere and yellow is

clinging

, Those who for the past year have

borrowed the

paper.j

.j.which wasn’t no good no how,

I offer my sympathy!"

He closed his office and departed

town.
Bolster,

just two miles north of Chesaw,

once threateened to outshine its southern rival.
one year,

For

each called the other a "suburb,"

It was in 1899 that J. S.
the Commonwealth Placer Claim,

McBride bought up

paced off a main street,

named the place "Bolster," and proceeded to sell lots.

The Hamilton Store was already there,

and soon a corner

of the store was designated as post office, with the

storekeeper as postmaster.
stores sprang into action,
up.

Within a year,

two more

and three saloons opened

Thirty homes were built,

and Editor Jenkins

started up the paper with high hopes of success.

-13“

�N.

A three-story hotel,
parts,

Weis

the mark of success In these

was constructed, hut never quite finished,'

Bolster collapsed!

It seemed to follow

the mining trend closer than Ghesaw, and perhaps

the loss of Its newspaper had some effect.

The

town’s people drifted to Ghesaw and Molson,

School opened for one

post office closed In 1909.

year In I9IO,

then closed.

The

By 1916 the only citizens

left were seven bachelor prospectors, and they finally
left or died.

The remains are sparse,

A large false-X^

fronted saloon stands at the edge of a cultivated

field,

Its three bay windows are vacant,

A false

front extends half heartedly toward the ridge-pole,
and part of It Is blown away.

The north wall sags

and will soon fall,and will probably take the rest
"^with it,
of the building alon^
similar structure,

Just beyond the saloon Is a

but without a false front.

may have been a store,

It

but has been used as a bam
!

SO long that all signs of human occupancy are gone.

Half a dozen cabins are scattered about,

last used^

perhaps^by the seven lonely prospectors.
There isn’t much left to see or explore at

Bolster,

The few old buildings seem sad and dejected.

-1^-

�N. Weis

Only one man could look upon this lonely scene with any
measure of satisfaction.

Jenkins,

-15-

That man would be Editor

�HAVILLAH, WASHINGTON
Martin Schweikert built a grist^^

In 1903,

mill and store near the junction of Antoine Greek

and Mill Greek,

at a point three miles west and

ten miles southwest by road from Ghesaw,
good; and in a few years Mr. Schweikert,

first postmaster,
mill.

Business was
the town’s

built a larger steam,powered flour

The boiler and other parts were railroaded

into Molson, and then freighted sixteen miles to
Havillah by oxen.

constructed,

Grain storage buildings were

and soon fine white flour was flowing

from the mill.

Packed in carefully weighed sacks,

it sold far and wide under the trade name of "Gold

Sheaf."
Soon a log school was built,
ydhurch constructed.

Havillah,

and a Lutheran

pronouned "HaVEBlah,"
—— —

was rapidly approaching its maximum size.

In 1917 a handsome new tall-splred church

was built.

A deep ravine cuts across in front of

the church,

requiring access via a wooden foot bridge.

Although the bridge is In doubtful repair, and the
church looks somewhat tattered at the windows,

sign out front proclaims weekly services led by
Reverend Wlnterstein.

-16-

the

�N. Weis

The little log schoolhouse has become an
Y-«si

out building for one of the remaining
Stoutly resisting decay, with windows boarded over,

it is hung all about with the wire, ladders,

cables,

chains and the miscellaneous parts that farmers
always save.

When the Schweikert

was converted to a school.

|llll

closed down,

it

A second-story access

had to be added as a fire escape.

Enclosed,

and

lighted by two small windows, the stairway cranks
its way down the side of the building, around the

corner, and ends at the next corner,

having traversed

nearly half of the building’s perimeter.
Havillah Isn’t much of a place anymore^
of course^ ^t never did measure out to be much of a
place — until you added up the- friendships,

the

memories, and the good times that were yesterday
in Havillah.

-17-

�N. Weis

I

-------- ’^he road northeast from Wauconda parallels

Todora Creek along its entire length,

the creek's

terminating at

juncture with Kettle River.

along this scenic route,
is the site of Bodie,

About midway

fifteen miles from Wauconda,

Washington,

Forested slopes

broken by occasional barren outcrops and footed by
grassy flats make the trip to Bodie one of pleasant

-1-

�N. Weis

variation,

Todora Creek bounces along, nearly always

visible|from the road, and gently audible at each

The Bodie Mountain,

crossing.

n‘iAp

Washington^

opo

is a definite aid to exploration.

Part

of this map Is reproduced in the introduction.

Bodie has half a dozen buildings strung
out along the road,

Most of the cabinsiare stained board and

the creek.
'batten.

mostly on the east side,vnext to

Across the

Only one is of log construction.

street is the deserted Bodie ^chool,

complete with

wood^shed and twin houses out back.

The second story

of the schoolhouse appears to have been an apartment,
perhaps an early version of a teacherage,

Bodie was established as a mill town about
1900.

At one time it had a store,

house,

bunkhouse^and hotel.

post office,

cook^*

Almost every resident

worked for the Perkins Milling Company.

The giant

stamp mill processed much of the ore taken from the

Golden Reward and the Elk (later the Golconda) /fines.
Business was good up until the late thirties.

shut down — and so did Bodie.
Since then,

The mill

In 1962 the mill burned.

things have been pretty quiet.

You can almost hear the silence in Bodie,
especially at sunset.

Later,

by moonlight, the old

cabins in town take on a new look.
seem luminous,

Bleached boards

and fence posts show half outlines.

-2-

Bodie, Washington

�N. Weis

Clouds scattered above reflect the dim light and

stand out boldly against the pitch-dark sky.

The morning light divorced Bodie of its
nocturnal beauty.
dingy.

One,

Some of the cabins looked downright

however, was in fine trim,

recently

repaired, and protected by a sign that made me think
twicer

"NO TRESPASSING — SURVIVORS WILL BE PROSECUTED^

�N. Weis

OLD TODORA, WASHINGTON
Indian trails generally followed the streams,

and the white man often built his wagon roads on top
of the trails.

Consequently, where streams

Joined,

roads also met, and there towns sprang into being.

Todora was established at the confluence of
Cougar and Todora ^reeks,

northeast of Wauconda.

It

mushroomed into existence shortly after I896 when
the area was opened to mineral claims.

By I898 there

were twenty-five cabins strung out along the Inter-section.
road,

Aligned on both sides of the north-south

there was a store,

smithy, assay office, and

post office.

It appeared to be a growing town,

but rumors

concerning the nearby mines were circulating shortly

after its post office was established.

The suggestion

was made to move the town north four miles where the
mines were more promising.

The town stayed,

of course,

but eight months after Todora received its post office,
it was moved and given the name of Bodie.

Later a

post office opened twenty miles farther northeast,
using the name Todora.

The original Todora then took

on its present designation,

"Old Todora."

Along Old Todora's main street are three of

its original business houses and ai, number of cabins.

�N. Weis

the
One of the cabins on the east side of.main street was

A

probably the residence and office of Postmaster Frederick
Just north is the badly decayed structure

Rosenfelt.

that once housed the local assaye?s^

office.

Its

walls are sagging and its roof poles are nearly barren

of shingles.

On the west side of the street the

blacksmith’s shop stands nearly roofless.

and its gables enclosed with

log walls are well joined,

Adjacent and to the north,

broad rough-hewn boards.

is the Schmellng General Store,

brothersI

Its solid

Carl and Herman.

once operated by

The roof was extended six

feet to the front to provide shade for window-shoppers

and inveterate whlttlers.
Just west of Old Todora is a modern country
home.

I stopped in to ask about Old Todora, and was

heartily;

welcomed by the Atchisons.

Over huge

stacks of pancakes topped with buttered syrup, we

discussed the deserted towns and mining camps in the
area.

After determining the nature of each building

in Old Todora,
Washington,

I mentioned that my Bodie Mountain,

Topographic

(15 minute)

map indicated a

large mine three miles upstream on Cougar Creek.
The Atchison brothers,

S.

G. and Charlie,

its existence and elaborated.

&gt;5-

confirmed

Called the Sheridan

�N. Weis

Mine Gamp,

it had a number of buildings including a
That made it a ghost town in my

mill and dormitory.
book.

I thanked the Atchisons and headed for the door.

Before I could leave,

Charlie added,

"You might go on

up a couple of miles and look over the old town of
Sheridan,

There’s a dozen buildings there,

some made

of logs — three stories high — and a hotel with
dance hall on the second floor — balcony^tool "

The map was quickly spread^ and the site
located.

Beside the first sharp switchback above

the head of the creek were two empty squares,

ting deserted buildings.

Charlie was surprised the

"It’s on the old Sheridan

map showed even that much,
Road,

indica­

you know — used to go all the way to Republic,

but it’s been blocked with trees for years."
Mrs. Atchison volunteered,

"Not too many

people know about the place — last bunch in there

punctured their oil pan.

We had to go up and rescue

Of course they had to walk all the way dovrn.

their car.

Amidst warnings of deep ruts and boulder-::^

strewn switchbacks,
information,

I thanked them for pancakes and

then set off for Sheridan Camp and

Sheridan Town,

-6-

�N. Weis

SHERIDAN MINE CAMP, WASHINGTON
The road was exactly as stated — terrible

The first three quarters of a

Ruts wery'a foot deep.
mile wasn't bad,

but after making the left turn to go

the
up East Pork of Cougar Greek,

the road became a

A
Heavy trucks had been through here when

challenge.

the ground was wet and soft.

Narrow ridges between

ruts were now the roadway, and accurate navigation
was a must.

In two miles,

a gate blocked the road,

but here was the turnoff heading left up to the mine

camp,

A sort of halfway house was located at the

-'jV
junction.

It was a handsome cabin of large logs,

roofed with moss-grown thick-butt cedar shingles.
Half a mile north of the halfway house
cookhouse
junction was the Sheridan Gamp^o^k and bunkhouse.
Eleven logs high,

for cooking,

and steeply roofed,

it offered room

heatlng^and recreation, with sleeping

quarters above.

Behind the bunkhouse was a board and

batten shed with an alr-clrculatlng c^ola on top.

I

speculated that it was either a meatjhouse or assay

office,

or perhaps the cooking was done here instead

of in the big log building.

One of the nice features

of exploring an "unknown"

site is that the only

information available is

"on the spot" guess work.

-7-

�N. Weis

One thing is certain.

The twelve&gt;»by-“elghteen-foot

vented building had been bu^t around a four-foot-’diameter

stump,

sawed flat at table height and full of chop marks I

That meant it most likely had been a meat house or
cook house.

The asssy office theory was ruled out.

Just up the hill a bit the old mill clings

to the hillside,

the roadway.

extending down to and including half

In fact the road splits to go either

past or under the mill chutes.
shape.

The mill is in bad

Much of its superstructure is gone,

X

/

■ /

lron__work and machinery is missing.
shouldn’t call it a mill,

Perhaps I

for its Inside timbering

did not resemble most mills.

It could have been a

concentrator^or merely a fancy loader.
was a square two-story building.

equipment was inside,
was evident.

Near the "mill"

Some of the original

and the function of this structure

Forge tables, with cinders and charcoal

still in place,

made it a smithy.

littered one end of the building.
portion,

and its

Numerous ore samples

In a small^closed

there was an abundance of crushed ore.

An

oven pedestal and roof vent were enough to deduce that
an assayer carried out his work at this end of the

building.

-8-

�N. Weis

The road was narrow,

and it took a while to

find a place wide enough to turn about.

For a

I suspected that I had driven in on the ultimate one­
way road --

"in only."

accomplished,

Finally, a one-eighty

I headed for Sheridan Town with high

expectations.

-9-

�N. Weis

SHERIDAN (TOWN), WASHINGTON
From the "halfway house"
through an unlocked gate,

the road leads

and continues upstream

along the north bank of the East Pork of Cougar
Creek.

The roadway is narrow.

area on either side of the

mile and a half.

There is no flat

"straight" road for a

The first turn is a sharp switch-

back to the right.

At this point a faint roadway

leads straight ahead.

The barely perceptible track

was the main street of Sheridan.
Looming on the right,

and fairly hidden

by trees, was a two-and-a-half-story "hotel,"

Each

story was eight logs high, and the logs were fat —
well over a foot in diameter.

logs to the gable top.
still standing!

It was another eight

Twenty-four logs high and

Across the front of the lower floor

was a long timbered opening designed to hold two
double doors and several large windows.

The lower

foundation logs extended forward a dozen feet to
support a wide boardwalk, now entirely rotted away.

Close inspection Indlcatad that company offices may
have been planned for the main floor,

with living

quarters above.
Just up the main road a few yards was

another log building of nearly equal size.

-10-

It looked

�N. Weis

like another "hotel," but more probably was built to

house the laboring force.
Centered, and behind these two massive log
buildings was a third log structure.

It was a low^

single-story outfit, with collapsed roof.
low walls divided It Into stalls,

Numerous

spelling out Its

It was a stable, and It was a big one —

function.

larger In floor space than either of the taller log

buildings.

The faint trail that led Into the trees from

the switchback became more Indistinct with every step.
I had gone perhaps one hundred yards beyond the two-anda-*half—story log "hotel" when I came across the

collapsed remains of the real
It had been gigantic — and plush.

logs formed tall^ slngle-»story side walls.

Squared

Adz marks

on the logs Indicated they had been flattened without
the benefit of saws.

jointed.

The corners were beautifully lock'-'~^

Above the first floor had been a vaulted

peaked roof,

constructed of sawed rafters and shingled

with heavy shakes.

The entire upper floor — clear out

to the useless eaves -- was floored smooth with expensive

(for that era)

tongue and groove boards.

This was the fancy place the Atchison Jfrothers

at Old Todora had told me about.

-11-

It had been Intact

Just

�N, Weis

a few years before.

The upper floor was used for

dances, and had a walk-out veranda.

Below the veranda

was the usual boardwalk leading into.the lower floor,

which was the hotel proper.
The rest of the town was anticlimactic.
hind the hotel was a large dug-out cooler.

Be­

West and

north of the hotel were six cabins in various states
One of them had roof shakes nearly three
everything
feet long, and^was so well preserved that it could

of decay.

have been made liveable with a few hours*

labor.

Never had I been in a more deserted or more
forgotten town,

nor had-I ever seen ^uch magnificent

log buildings.

Just how they had survived was a
-.

mystery.

The big log building at the switchback was

a mystery by itself,

appearance.

Something was

"wrong” with its

It took a moment —— then it was obvious.

There were no windows at the sides or on the upper
floors.

No sane man would live in a flammable building

without an avenue of escape.

to have windows.

At first it seemed unexplainable.

Then things began to add up.
downstream,

months.

falling.

A building like this had

Old Todora, a few miles

had ^eld its post office for only eight

The reason was that the mines nearby were

Gould it be that Sheridan Town failed

-12-

just

�N.

Weis

as quickly, and that work on the big log building was
stopped short,

just before the windows were slated to

be cut out and framed?
Perhaps the reasoning Is In error.

I hope It Is,

In a way.

for standing In the middle of this Im­

pressive ghost town,

one begins to feel guilty about

prying Into long-held secrets.
Like a grand old lady,

her modicum of privacy.

-13-

Sheridan Town deserves

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                    <text>N. WolB

GHOST T0W4S OP THE NORTHWEST
Bnowi and Unknown

k('^l('6

Other Books by the Authori
All About Grizzly Bears
All About The Vhlte«Talled Deer

�Title Page

by Norman D. Weis

GHOST TOWNS OP THE NORTHWEST
Known and Unknown

Illustrated by
the Author

�Dedication

To

J. M, W

�N. Weis

PRBPACS

Ghost towns are quiet places•
nothing moves about.

Little or

Thia charaoterlatlo Is faith*

fully preserved -* In fact enhanced — through the
process of still photography.

Mediocre scenes of

deserted buildings seem to gain quality through the

Imposing remains, becked by

developing process.

puffy clouds, become near classics.

It is the

stillness of ghost towns that appeals to the maker
of pictures.

This book is a collection of photographs,
with a little history, adventure and humor sandwlohed
randomly between.

The historical accounts InoludMdare

as accurate as the reference sources available, and
as reliable as the Individuals Interviewed.

In the

belief that history need not be tedious or boring,
I have attempted to slip the facts In painlessly **
In some oases almost subliminally.

The humor fell

I

In place quite by accident.

Old timers remembered

first the tall tales, then the fact, and often the

facts were hilarious.

Prone to stupid mistakes, and

*1

�N. Weis

suffering from a mild oase of "foot in mouth disease,"
I contributed my own share of misunderstandings and
embarasslng moments.

A writer may quite accidentally mislead his
readers by extolling the past glories of a particular

ghost town while excluding any mention of Its present
remains.

Numerous old photos complete the Illusion,

and the reader Is convinced that the town la worth at
least a week end visit.

Too often I have traveled

more than one hundred miles to explore such well
descrllied sites, only to find that a dam built forty
years ago put it under eighty feet of water, or that

a bowling alley had been built on Ita bulldozed remains,
and It in turn had burned to the ground.

For this

reason the photographs In this book are accurate
renditions of present remains.

A few old photos have

been included, but they arc clearly labeled as such.
Between ten and fifteen ghost towns from
each of the five northwest states were ohosen to be

treated In this book.
Included.

Some well known favorites were

At these sites, the effort was primarily

on a new approach to a well known story, or an elabora*
tlon on some new aspect freshly uncovered,

A concerted effort was made to search out
some "unknowns" In each state ** towns that have had

ptr/gee

�N. Vols

little or no mention In print.

A large fart of the

text 18 devoted to the searoh for these sites and

their subsequent exploration.

That Is where the

adventure ooaes In.
The effort, of oourse, was not all mine,

and X am privileged to thank those whose asslstanoe
was so willingly given.

Suggestions oonoernlng the

text, solicited of Mike Herblson and Marie Stewart,

were of great help.

Wilhelm Ossa and Joo Stewart

gave valuable advice on the selection of photographs.
Senator Gale McGee of Wyoming was Instrumental In
procuring the topographic maps vital to the searoh

for *unknown* sites.

There were many who offered

help and hospitality along the way, and to them X
have expressed ay appreciation In the text.

Here are

some folk not otherwise mentioned, who deserve my
thanks«

Mr. Antonloll of Butte, Montana, owner of
Kirkville, Montana,
The unnamed old timer at Galena, Idaho, who

shared with me a very welcome pot of coffee
on a rainy afternoon.

Gale Ontko of the Bureau of Land Management,
Prineville, Oregon,

�N. WU-.J

Mr. and Mra. Paul Gorbalay of Blewett,
Washington.

John Meek of Boulder, Colorado
Mr. and Mrs. Hoerer of Atlantio City,

Wyoming.
The personnel of the State Arohives, Museums
and Libraries of Oregon, Washington, Idaho,

Wyoming, and Montana.
The U. S, Weather Bureau employees of Bozeman,
Montana, who gave me aooess to satellite

photos and helped me determine how to
esoape the oloud hiding smoke of forest

fires drifting down from Canada and Alaska.

Numerous mine engineers, hoist operators,
muokers, and prospeotors, espeolally the

old hand I met in Northern Idaho that
proudly showed me his three peanut butter

Jars full of gold nuggets*

1

�N. Weis

Lastly, for adding a little eploe to life,
1 would like to thank the two eighty year

old oltlsene of a onoe booming town In
aouthem Wyoming, who, Inaulted at ay
BUggestlon that their town was nearly a
ghost, stood up as one and ohallenged me

to a fightt

�Contents

PART I - OREGON
Page
Sumpter........................................ • • .
Granite
..............
Whitney
.
Galena
Susanville

Richmond
.
Lonerock
Ashwood
Horse Heaven
Antelope
Shaniko
Boyd

... ..
..............
...
......................

Placer
........................
Greenback. ...................................
Golden
........................
PART II-WASHINGTON

Area 1
Liberty.
H/ewett
Disautel

......................
........................
• •.
................ ..

Area 2
Molson. ................ ..................
Chesaw
Bolster
«...•••«
H^avlllah

Area 3
Bodie..................................... • • •.
Old Todora........................ • •..
Sheridan Mine Camp
Sheridan (Town)••••«..•••

PART III

IDAHO

Area 1
Leesburg.................
•••
Cobalt
Yellow Jacket................ •. • •

�Area 2

Bayhorse,
Bonanza (City)
Custer.
Sawtooth City
Vienna

.
................
..............

Area 3

zj

Idaho City
Placerville
ka&lt;^CaaiDaok Mining Gamp
-^Golden Age Gamp

PAHT IV- WYOMING

Area 1
Atlantic City
.
South Pass City..,.
.
Pacific Springs.....
Miners Delight
.
The Duncan
........................
Lewiston
.

Area 2
Port Steele.
Benton
Carbon Timber Town
Walcott. ...........................

.

PART V - MONTANA

Area 1
Jardine
Electric
Aldridge
.
Corwin Springs

Area 2
Cable..•.
Red Lion.
Tower....
Granite..
Kirkville

Area

Pony
Red Bluff....
Virginia City
Nevada City,.
Ruby

..............

�N. Wel8

IWTRODUCTIOH

For several years the exact definition of

the term "ghost town" has eluded me*

A ^ost town

should, of course, display only a shadow of Its

former glory.

Ideally it would he completely deserted,

full of two and three story false fronted hulldingo,

all of them completely furnished and undisturbed.

The

town should appear as If the entire population had
gone to a funeral and failed to return.

To top It

off, a tumbleweed should blow down the dusty main
street, bouncing In rhythm with the banging of loose

shutters and the soreeoh of unolled hinges.
But that's not the way It Is.

Perhaps such

a perfect example awaits discovery, but I fear that I
shall never find It.

I've seen the tumbleweed, but

the buildings were mere heaps of rubble.

The rattling

shutters were theretOoo, but the buildings were single
storied and empty ofwmares.
buildings?

Three story false fronted

Xes, but the town was yet alive.

About the closest I could come to a proper
definition was that "the place excited me."

Bxolted

me enough to recommend that others travel perhaps

fifty miles to see It.

It Is a poor definition, and

«!•

�N. Wel8

Z*a happy to twap It for ono proposed quite off hand

by a gentleman from Spray, Oregon*
I oalled him "The Sage from Spray,* beoauee

he had a oonatruotlve* althou^ oaustlo oomment to
make on every subject broached•

He watched ae 1

spread maps out on the counter*

He listened as 1

asked questions about some of the towns In the vlolnlty*

X number of Interested folk volunteered Information on

this and that town, designating several as genuine
ghost towns.

Finally the "Sage" took Issue.

"Hell,

X don't see how you kuys oan oall them places ghost
towns I

They's Just like any other town 'oept they

ain't hardly no one livin' there —•—*

Part of the fascination of ghost town hunting
comes from the wide array of hazards Involved*

Bad

roads are the rule, and a four-wheel drive vehiole la

a must.

But four«wheel drive is of little oomfort

when ruts are deep enough to let the differentials
drag.

With the slightest effort, one oan become hie^»

centered, spinning all four wheels free and clear.

back roads, distances between gas stations oan be
unbelievable.

When the tank gauge reeds "zerc^" one

becomes apprehensive, but the addition of a five
gallon of reserve tank of gas wipes out all fears*

On

�N. Weis

But soon the gauge reads "zero** again, and your goal

ohanges froa deserted towns to "soae sign of olvlll*
zatlon,*

Hlraoulously, Z never had to walk for gas.

Often the tank read less than eapty when a serrloe

station was finally reaohed,

Baoh tlae X aarked the

needle's position with a felt pen&gt;

At the end of

two months, X had a fan shaped array of marks

extending to what should have been a minus one*
quarter tank.
Having taken preoautlons oonoernlng oil

(four extra quarts) and gas, the only meohanloal

trouble was dlslooatlon of the drive-shaft support,
ZiOoated In the exact oenter of the vehlole. It was

vulnerable to any rook more than six Inches high.
Ten or twelve hard whaoks with a one pound sledge

always put It baok in reasonable position.

After

half a dozen straightenings, It began to weaken, and

finally had to be replaced.

Some problems encountered Irhlle ghost town

hunting are compounded by the bad habits common to
most photographers.

Often looking through the view­

finder, and seldom watching their feet, they are
forever backing up while looking forward.

Snakes

and open shafts abound *« and nails ** nails are
*3*

�K. Welfl

there by the thousand — firmly embedded and pointing
straight up* eaoh one a rusty Invitation to lookjaw*

By far the greatest obstaole faolng the
would be visitor to a ghost town Is Initially locating

the alto,

A searoh of the existing literature will

reveal the obvious towns, and an In-depth Investigation

Into the records and photos In various state archives
will turn up a few more, also quite well known.

Post

offloe records and county seat plat books will give
up their share of secrets.

Fishermen, hunters, bottle

diggers, state patrolmen, and of course, the old timers

are valuable sources for searching out the lesser known

sites.

Old timers are often difficult to locate, but

It Is worth the effort, for the benefits are twofold.
As one proceeds to gather Information on sites already

visited, clues to additional ghost towns come to light.
None of the adorementioned methods are quite

as productive as a systematic searoh of topographic
maps.

Multitudes of "possibles" can be pinpointed for

later Investigation.

The United States Geological

Survey (U.S.G.S.) maps are among the most responsive
to careful analysis.

A complete set of such maps for

a given state are available at most libraries.

The

job of searching eaoh map — square mile by square

�N. Wais

mils — oan be tedious.

A asp may require a mere ten

minutes of study, but there are many maps to soan.

There are more than eight hundred and fifty U.S.0.3.
maps for the State of Montana alone.

The moat common is the

minute nap, labeled

beoause It encompasses 7| minutes of longitude and

latitude.

These terms are not Important as long as

one realizes that suoh a map covers an area approximately
six miles east and vest, by nine miles north and south.

The scale Is listed as li 24,000, but Is more easily

understood as approximately 2i Inches to the mile.
That la quite a large and revealing scale.

Every

building Is shown as a square, filled In If oooupled,
and empty If empty.

lay.

Forests are shown In green over­

Surveyors claim that even a three foot bush Is

represented by a tiny green dot.

cate the steepness of slope.

Contour lines Indi­

Where they lie close, the

grade Is steep — where there are few, it Is relatively
level.

Every creek, ridge, road, railroad, shaft,

tunnel, and prospect holo Is supposed to be Indloated,

but map makers to make mistakes.

Buildings are left

out and extra lakes are oooaslonally thrown In.

Onoe

a feature Is listed on a map. It Is generally carried
along through future revisions.

This perpetuation

�N. Vela

aakea Boat naps aooldentally hlstorloaX In nature.
The original map date Is always listed, and one may

assume any buildings shown were actually In exlstenoe

on that date.

When a topo map shows a town of

considerable outlay, and the same town Is missing
or Indicated minimally on a road map, then It may

be considered a possible ghost town worthy of Investi­
gation,

Other signs that tip off the presenoe of

ghost town are dead end roads and railroads, mine
shafts, tunnels and prospect holes.

Unnamed buildings

set in a row often indicate a company town.

Tailings

denoted by small *v" shaped marks are sure Indications
of a past mining effort.

indicative.

The very name of a town Is

You may ignore "Kennedy Heights" and

"Plaza Park," as they are sure to be modem communities,
but "Galena,* "Ironton," and "Copperopolis" are good

bets.

Xt has been my ezperience that if chosen

carefully, about twenty-five per cent of the sites
selected prove to be ghost towns.

The percentage is

enhanced by the cartographer*s occasional use of the

terms "abandoned" or "site,"
The U.S.G.S. publishes many maps of leaser
scale that cover larger territories.

The 15 minute

map covers an area approximately thirteen by eighteen

-6-

�N. Vela

alias and Its soals is approxlaately ens Inch to ths
alls.

Harder to road than ths 7| minute map* It la

still valuable, and Is often ths only topo map
available.

The two maps reproduced here are typloal

examplea of ths 7^ and 15 minute topos.

Bach map has

the Important Items labeled and explained.

If you oan

rsasmber that ths top of a map Is north, and that saoh
red square Is a square mils, ths rest is easy.
Topographic maps may be obtained through
local retailers, but stooka afe often limited.

The

Denver section of the 5,3,0.3. offers for sals all of

the maps covering the Western United States.

The

Denver Distribution Section
U. S. Geological Survey
Denver Federal Center * Building 41
Denver, Colorado
80225

address I

Upon request, free copies of state Index maps will be
supplied.

Desired maps oan be readily selected with

the aid of these “keys."

Ths prices of topo maps

are generally fifty cents saoh, with discounts on

quantity orders,
Note to Edltori

(continued on page (D )
following are two sheets describing
the two maps Included. Also Included
Is a uses symbol sheet •- all, part,
or none of It nay be used as filler.

��N. Weis

Map desorlptlon of the Badium Springe
alnute map.
(iiSl®.* reproduoe map with no reduction or enlarge*
aent.) Trim edges if required.

This la a portion of the Badlum Springe,

VyoBlng 7i minute topogxaphlo map.

shown as solid double lines.

Dirt roads are

The dashed lines

Indloate unimproved dirt roads or trails.

Item A

proved to be "The Good Hope Mine," a most soenlo
rello.

B Indicates The Oregon Trail.

Note the Trail

merging with the road, then passing through Lewiston,
item D.

Little is known of this remote Wyoming ghost

town, and small bits of Information gleaned from mpe
are often important.

There were two very old log

buildings just as Indicated, one a false fronted
store, the other a livery.

B la "The Hidden Band

Hine," conveniently labeled and complete with hoist
house and smithy,
on the map.

P Indicates another mine not shown

Named "The Iron Duke," It would be a

nameless site, except for &gt;eraovorlng memories of

old timers living in the area.

Items H and I

represent a small mining complex and extensive

tailings.

One of the buildings by the mine shaft Is

the home of the only surviving prospector on the
Sweetwater Blver,

ficant.

Items C and 0 proved to be insigni­

�BODIE MTN. QUADRANGLE
WASHINGTON
15 MINUTE SERIES (TOPOGRAPHIC)
)40f_

J_^aCOO=f.£'

V-

'J?

118*45'

ib-4

pKA^mAN

’I

?4fi0000 F€£l

Service

SCALE 1:62500

4

milcs

ROAD CLASanCATK

71000 rCEl
*nission

HeCiu^'duCy

RiLOMPrcfls

tods

--

Li^t-dij

UmiTiDrMCd &lt;)*1. . . . J
CONTOUR INTERVAL 50 FtET
MTUM IS MEAN SEA LEVEL

QU^IMUX LOCATION

BODiE N
NASAS-^

AmOXrKAff MfAN
OeCLlNATiON. }9Sa

THIS MAP COMPlIES *I’H NAIIOMAL MAP ACCUHACV SIANtlAPOS
FOR SALE BY U S GEOLOGICAL SURVEY, DENVER 25. COLORADO OR WASHINGTON 25, D. C.
A FOLOEH OCSCmaiNO lOPOaBAPMIC MAPS ANO SYMBOLS IS AVAILABLE ON RtqUEST

�N. Welfl

Hap desorlptlon, Bodie Mountain 15 minute map*
ilo^t Preserve the scale on this map also.
Trim if desired,

Approxlniately one-fourth of the Bodie
Moiintaln, Washington* 15 minute topographic map Is

shown here.

Upon Investigation* Item A turned out to
he a mixture of old sawmill remains and relatively

modem oahlns*

Xt was clearly not a ghost town,

B*

labeled "Bodie*** Is a small but well known ghost

town*

The building on the left Is a schoolhouse•

Those on the right are old stores and resldenoes of
Bodie* some of whloh have been converted to vacation

homes.

C Is **01d Todora,"

shown on the map.

Only one building Is

Actually there are a number of

buildings at the site* making Old Todora a ghost

town worth visiting.

The "Old Sheridan Hine," D,

was Indeed old, and consisted of far more than was

shown on the map.

Item P Is the town of Sheridan,

one of the finest "unknown" ghost towns visited*

The

two empty buildings Indicated on the map are large
story log structures.

In addition* there are nearly

a dozen other buildings standing In town* along with
a fancy frame hotel* now partially collapsed*

Item

E was not visited, due to over Indulgence concerning

Item P.
9*

�N. Weis

Finding the site on the nap is the first
step — getting there is often a di^loult second.
Hew reads frequently sake aeoess to old reads diffi*

oult.

Broded trails and looked gates oan stop the

best of baok»ootmtry vehloles, hut there Is little
to inhibit foot travel.

Walking is time consuming

and tiring, and the trail seems always to be steep.

A five mile hike may be required to reach a deserted
site, and often as not, one will find the old town

has been newly converted to a ski resort, acoessed

from the other side of the hill by an excellent black
top road.
Onoe found, photographing the site Is a

Filn is cheap compared to gasoline,

simple natter,

so plenty of variations in angle and exposure are

in order.

Clouds add tremendously to most scenes,

but like a watched pot, clouds are slow to cooperate
when closely observed.

A paperback book was an item

of standard equipment.

A dozen pages always seemed

to lure the clouds into proper position.

Plus X

pan professional film was preferred for the black
and white photographs, and was exposed through a

yellow 2 X filter.
color shots,

Bktaohrome X was used for the

The Praktlslx 2J x 2i reflex camera

was my favorite.

It handled well and produced pictures
-10-

�N. Weis

equal In quality to that of cameras costing three times

as much.

Absolutely necessary are a pentaprism for

eye level composition, and a monopod or tripod for

a steady hold through the exposure*

The monopod Is

the more mobile of the two devices, and the single
leg Is steady enough when the camera Is braced against

the forehead to allow exposures as slow as onethirtieth of a second.

A roll of 120 film takes

twelve shots, and the average ghost town required four

rolls*

To keep the records straight. It was my prac­

tice to write the name of the town on the outside of

each roll of exposed film.

Later X realized that the

outer portion Is discarded during development, and

the record lost.

The solution was simple — write

the name of the town on some convenient surface, then
photograph the sign.

Bach new roll was started with

one exposure sacrificed in the Interest of accurate
records*

X have chalked names of ghost towns on

boards, old buckets, barrels, and outhouse walls.

In

a pinch, X have used the black sidewalls of ny truck
tires.

Although of short duration, and certain to

wash away, the chalked named might have appeared to
be the work of some demented soul bent on visiting
and repeatedly Identifying every deserted town In

the Northwest.

�N, Vela

Perhaps that statement Is not too far off

the mark.

Although this book Is not Intended to be

oomprehenslTSt Hore than two hundred sites were visited

I seleoted three or four dosen firoia eaoh of the five

states, taking oare to choose among them ten well-

known sites.

The remainder were "possible unknowns**

gleaned from searching the topographic maps.

Of these*

“possibles,* a number turned out to be lively communi­
ties.

Many others had been completely eradicated by

olvlllratlon.

town.

About one In four was a genuine ghost

Of the sites visited, I seleoted slxty-two

for Inclusion In this book.

They were chosen for

their story, their photogenic qualities, or for their
virginity of publication.
Pour times those ghost towns have come to

life for me — when found and studied during the map

search, when visited and researched, when photographs
came to life In the dark room, and finally when the

text was assembled fx*om notes and reference.

My sincere hope Is that your enjoyment one
time through will equal the four of mine.

�N. Weis

SELSCTSD BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bartlett, Rlohard A. - Great Surveys of the American
West
Norman, Oklahoma
1962

Beebe, Lucius, and Clegg, Charles • The American West
New York
1955

Burlingame, Merrill G, and Toole, K. Ross - A History
of Montana
3 Vols
New York
1957
Capitol Journal (newspaper)
Salem, Oregon, Aug. 26 *64

Carey, Charles H. - General History of Oregon
Portland, Oregon
1935

2 Vols,

Chatterton, Governor - Yesterday’s Wyoming
Aurara, Colorado
1957

Goutant, Charles G, - History of Wyoming, Prom the
Earliest Known Discoveries 2 Vols,
Laramie
1899
Crossroads of the West - Premont County, Wyoming
Jubilee Book
Lander, Wyoming
1968

Dlmsdale, Thomas J. ■ The Vigilantes of Montana
Norman, Oklahoma
1953
Donaldson, Thomas - Idaho of Yesterday
Caldwell, Idaho

1941

Driggs, Howard R. - Westward America
New York
1942

Erwin, Marie E, - Wyoming Historical Blue Book
A Wyoming State Publication

1946

Fisher, Vardls and Holmes, Opal - Gold Rushes and Mining
Camps of the Early American West
Caldwell
1968
Florin, Lambert - Western Ghost Towns
Seattle, Washington

1961

�N. Weis

——————————— Ghost Town Album
Seattle, Washington

1962

Grant’s Pass Dally Courier
Grant's Pass, Ore. Apr. 3, 1935
Apr. 2, i960
Hafon, LeHoy H. PhD. - The Overland Mall
Cleveland, Ohio

1926

Hobard and Brininstool - The Bozeman Trail
Cleveland, Ohio

1922

Heritage, Vol, 2

Ho. 1, A publication of the Okanocan County Historical Society
Washington
Deo, I963

Howard, Joseph Kinsey - Montana, High Wide and Handseae
New Haven, Conn.
19^3

Montana Margins
Now Haven, Conn,

Idaho, American Guide Series
New York
Idahols

1946

1937

Yesterdays, Vol, I9 No. 1 A publication
of the Idaho Historical Society,
Quarterly Journal
Boise, Idaho
1965

Jackson, Clarence 3. - Picture Maker of the Old West
lew York
194?
Jackson, Joseph Henry - Gold Rush Album
New York
1949
Miller, Nina - Shutters West
Denver

1962

Mining Catalog For the Mining Industry ffor Metal
and Non Metallic Open Pit)
Now York
1949

Mining In Idaho Ref, No. 9 A publication of the
Idaho Historical Society
Boise, Idaho
No Date

�N. Weis

Montana Amerloan Guide Series
New York

1939

Nevins, Allan - Premont, Pathmarker of the West
Mew York
1955

Okanojran Indeoendent (Washington Newspaper)
numerous Issues
Oregon, Amerioan Guide Series
Portland, Oregon

19^0

Oregonian (newspaper)
(please supply town). Oregon
September 7, 19^3
September 9» 19^3
Pence, Mary Lou and Homsher, Lola jY. - The Ghost Towns
of Wyoming
New York
1956

Ramsey, Guy Heed - Postmarked Washington, A publica­
tion of the Okanogan County
Historical Society (Wash.)
No Date

Hickey, Don Jr. - Forty Mlles a Day on Peans and Hay
Norman, Oklahoma 1963
Sollld, Roberta Seed - Calamity Jane
Helena, Montana

195^

Stewart, W. S, and Assoc. - Idaho's Bonanza Years
Halley, Idaho
I966
United States Forest Service, Department of
Agriculture maps of the
National Forests of the
Northwest States.

United States Geological Survey Bulletins
Nos. 364, 580C, 580G, 626,
811D, 804, and Prof. Paper
No. 25
United States Geological Survey - Topographic
maps of all areas known to
carry mineralization In the
Northwest States.

�N. Weis

Washlnflfton, Amerloan Guide Series
Portland
19UI
Webb, Tod - Gold Strikes and Ghost Towns
New York
I96I
Wolle, Muriel Slbell - The Bonanza Trail
Bloomington, Ill,

--- ----------------------------------- -

1958

Montana Pay Dlrti A Guide To
The Mining Gamps of the
Treasure State
Denver
I963

Wyoming-Amerloan Guide Series
New York

1941

�■

••

f

XXXU3TSAT1QNS
Jf
S&gt;^Jie

4^t/4

at s
:^x^/
Mapi Area near Baker, Oregon.,,,.,,.,..,,,,,J
X

Dredge, Sumpter. Oregon,,...................

2

Dredge bridge, Sumpter, Oregon,...,....................

3

Hospital, Sumpter,

Oregon..................................

4

Old bam, Sumpter,

Oregon..... ...............

6

Town liaXl and Fire dept. Sumpter, Oregon...••

6

Sohool house, Granite, Oregon...................... ..

8

Heroantlle, Granite, Oregon................. .. .....................

9

Drugstore, Granite, Oregon.,,..10

Saloon and Danoe hall. Granite, Oregon.......

11

Xaln Street, Whitney, Oregon,X2
Hesldenoes, Whitney, Oregon.,13
Sawmill, Whitney, Oregon..,.xU

Oalena, Oregon..

15

store. Galena, Oregon.,............. ..............................,,,,

x6

Bedldenoe, Galena, Oregon.X8
Stamp Hill, Susanville, Oregon.19

Sesldenoe, Susanville, Oregon,21
Custom Hill, Susanville, Oregon....................

22

Hapt Area near Madras, Oregon.23
Mwthodlst Church, Blohoond, Oregon.............

Sohool, Blohmond, Oregon............... ................................

25

Smith System Stove, Klohaond, Oregon....................

26

Barly Shopping Center, Richmond, Oregon.............

2?

�House on the hill, Rlohaond, Oregon*•••••••••

28

Lone rook and Churoh, LonerooR, Oregon*29

Baptist Chtroh* Lonerock* Oregon*•«•««•••***«

30

8aln Street* Lonerock* Oregon****

31

*.............

School* Lonerock* Oregon

31

Stairway of Hotel* Lonerock* Oregon**********

33

Baptist Church* Ashwood* Oregon**.*•,*•••,,*•
Country Store* Ashwood* Oregon.***....**.*..,

36

Shaded houses* Ashwood* Oregon

37

.

Residence* Horse Heaven* Oregon.....

39

Loading Tipple* Horse Heaven* Oregon...

It-O

Clnnahar furnace* Horae Heaven, Oregon.•...••

kZ

Overview* Horse Heaven* Oregon*.••.•*•.,•••.*

it'3

Hook face* Horse Heaven* Oregon.............

M

Sllvertooth Saloon* Antelope, Oregon.*....**.
Ball of the Ancient Order of United Workraen,
Antelope* Oregon*.
.................

Ruins, Antelope* Oregon*
Methodist Church* Antelope* Oregon**.*••«••,.

49

Hotel* Shaniko, Oregon.

..............................

50

School* Shaniko, Oregon

.......................

51

Water tank* Shanll^* Oregon*••.•*.,•••.•«,**,

53

Fancy hone* Boyd* Oregon

5A

Holler Bill* Boyd* Oregon*......*,.*.,*.**.**

55

Mill owner’s resldenoe* Boyd* Oregon.,.,,*,.*

55

Mapi Area near Orant’s Baao, Oregon..,,,,.,,,

57

Resldenoe* Placer* Oregon

56

Storekeeper’s home* Placer, Oregon.,59

�Sohool, Plaoer, Oregon

...........................

Covered bridge. Plaoer, Oregon,,,.,,.,,,,,,,,

62

Ball Hill, Greenback, Oregon

......................

63

Timber Skid, Greenback, Oregon,.

64

Staap lifter. Greenback, Oregon,.

65

Ore oar. Greenback, Oregon

.........................

66

.

68

Community Churoh, Golden, Oregon
Carriage houae and store, Golden, Oregon

69

Sohool, Golden, Oregon,..,,,.,,.,,.,,

70

Heaidenoe, Golden, Oregon

72

..............................

Churoh dteeple. Golden, Osregon,.

C&lt;apf Area near Cle Blum, Washington
Thorp Hill, Thorp, Washington

,,,

75

.

Kiner's cabin. Liberty, Washington

77

iline shack. Liberty, Washington

79

Cabin, Liberty, Washington,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

79

Besidenoe, Liberty, Washington

8i

.

Water wneel, Liberty, Washington....

.

82

Modem gold washer, Liberty, Washington

64

Shoemaker's cabin, Blewett, Washington.«...,.

85

Mill, Blewett, Washington...

.

Blewett, Washington...

86

.

87

Logger's home, Disautel, Washington

88

Wash house, Disautel, Washington

89

Future brono buster, Disautel, Washington...,

90

The Brooks uaoe, Disautel, Washington

91

�1

Map I Area near Oroville, Waehingtoi..

Bank, Mol eon, Vaahington.

...............

Three etory eohool, Molson, Vae hlngton

97

C. L. Diamond Store, Holson, Washington

93

Bastem Okanogan Telephone Company,
Mol8on, Washington*•

98

Minnie Carpenter's Millinery, Chs^v, Wash.,. 100

Bank and Townslte Building, Chesaw. Wash...., 101
Blaine's Assay Office, Chesaw, Wash.«•••,.,,• 102
Collapsed home, Chesaw, Washington.

103

.

Saloon, Bolster, Washington....

105

Bachelor's cabin, Bolster, Washington...••••• 106
Lutheran Church, Havlllah, Washington

.

107

First eohool house, Havlllah, Washington

109

Last school house, Havlllah, Washington

110

Mapi Area near Hepubllo, Washtgton,,«••••.,,. Ill
Cabins, Bodie, Washington.,,,•,.«••••••.,.«,« 112

Moonlight on bleached boards, Bodie, Wash.... 113

3ohool, Bodie, Washington

..

Assay Office, Old Todora, Washington

114

.

115

Smithy and Store, Old Todora, Washington,..., 116

Bunkhouse, Sheridan Nine Camp, Washington..., 118
Mill, Shorldan Nine Camp, Washington.« ...... 119

"Loader", Sheridan Mine Camp, Washington.*.,. 120

*Eotel", Sheridan, Washington.• 121
Close view of "Hotel*, Sheridan, Washington., 122
The real Hotel, Sheridan, Washington,. 123

�Miner’s oabln, Sheridan, Washington............... ..

Mapi Area near Salmon, Idaho...............................

iis,

Main Street, Leesburg, Idaho...,........................

128

Swaybaoked building, Leesburg, Idaho..................

129

Two story building, Leesburg, Idaho...............

131

Board and batten roofs, Leesburg, Idaho,....

13f

Overview, Cobalt, Idaho............ .. ................................

133

Store and reoreation hall. Cobalt, Idaho...,

134

Bachelor's quarters. Cobalt, Idaho............... ..

135

Blackbird t41ne. Cobalt, Idaho',...,.,.,,..........

136

Sixty Stamp Hill, Yellow Jacket, Idaho.............

I38

Lonely Cabin, Yellow Jacket, Idaho..

139

Pelton Wheel, Yellow Jacket, Idaho.,

14o

Five story Hotel, front view. Yellow Jacket,
Idaho....................
142
Five story Hotel, roar view. Yellow Jacket,
Idaho,,,..

143

Map I Area near Stanley, Idaho...................................

145

Bayhorso Saloon, Bayhorse, Idaho,.

146

Company building. Bayhorse, Idaho.......... ..

147

Charcoal Kilns, Bayhorse, Idaho149

Tramway station. Bayhorse, Idaho............ ..

150

Yankee Fork dredge. Bonanza City, Idaho.«..,

151

Cabin, Bonanza City, Idaho............... .... .............. .,,

152

Buildings and boardwalks. Bonanza City, Ida.

153

Residence, Bonanza City, Idaho.,..,.......... ..

155

�School beoomo museum, Custer, Idaho

Doo's house, Custer, Idaho

.........................

Blaoksnlth's shop. Sawtooth City, Idaho..........

160

Log oornera. Sawtooth City, Idaho..,................

161

Cemetery, Sawtooth City, Idaho............... .................

162

Sagging oebln, Vienna, Idaho....................

I63

^Two Btury

Vienna, Idaho...............

165

Webfoot Mine, Vienna, Idaho.......................................

166

Mapi Area near Idaho City, Idaho.,..................

167

Overview, Idaho City, Idaho.....................................

168

Portable stamp mill, Idaho City, Idaho......

I69

Idaho World Building, Idaho City, Idaho.....

170

Territorial prison, Idaho City, Idaho...............

171

Maeonlo Hall, Idaho City, Idaho..............................

I73

Boot Bill, Idaho City, Idaho.......... ..........................

174

Magnolia Saloon, Plaoerville, Idaho.........

175

Residence, Plaoerville, Idaho............... ...................

176

Episcopal Churoh, Plaoerville, Idaho........

177

Adit house, Comebaok Mining Camp, Idaho.....

I78

Bunkhouse, Comebaok Mining Camp, Idaho179

Waterhouse, Comebaok Mining Camp, Idaho..........

180

Diana Sohool, Golden Age Camp, Idaho..................

182

Malo Street, Oolden Age Camp, Idaho........... ..

183

Public privy, Golden Age Camp, Idaho.......... ..

184

Mapi Area near Lander, Wyoming................................

I87

Log Church, Atlantic City, Wyoming........... 188

�Remains of stamp mill, Atlantic City,Wyo.,•.

189

Rook Building, Atlantic City, Vyomlng...............

190

Granler and Paters, Atlantic City, Vyomlng,.

191

Log Churoh, Atlantlo City, Vyomlng.......................

192

Livery, Atlantlo City, Wyoming......................

19^

Rosa Wine, Atlantlo City, Wyoming......................

194

Gold vashar-dradga, Atlantlo City, Wyoming.,

195

Rosa Mina Interior, Atlantlo City, Wyoming..

I96

Portable gold washer, Atlantic City, Wyo....

197

Eclipse Hotel, South Pass City, Wyoming...,.

I98

Jail and hat shop. South Pass City, Vyo..,,,

I99

Smith and Sherlook Store, South Pass City,
Wyoming. ................ .
200
Ovarvlaw, South Pass City, Wyoming.......................

201

General View, Paolflo Springs, Wyoming.............

202

Livery interior, Paoiflo Springs, Wyoming...

203

Store baoome residence, Paolflo Springs, Wyo. 204

"Hard Rook Sam" ^Jeatio............... .. ................................ 20^
Kain Street, Miners Delight, Wyoming., 206
Resldenoe, Kiners Delight, Wyoming.,.,,............. 20?

Custom Mill, Miners Delight, Wyoming.••.,.••• 208

Miners Delight Mine, Hiners Delight, Wyoming. 209
Hiners* cabins, Miners Delight, Vyomlng,.,... 210
Monte Carlo Mine, Miners Delight, Vyomlng.... 211
Dunoan Mina, The Dunoan, Wyoming.............................. 212

Mill. The Dunoan, Wyoming....................................

213

Dormitory, The Dunoan, Wyoming...............................

214

�Or^rvlew, The Dunoan, Wyoming.,,,,,,,..,.,.., 214

Ore oar at the swltoh. The Dunean, Wyoming... 213

Store, Levleton, Wyoming.,, 216
XAvery and shaft, Lewiston, Wyoming,.,,,,,.,, 218

Hidden Hand Mine, Lewiston, Wyoming,,,,,,.,,, 219
Good Hope Mine, Lewiston, Wyoming,.,.................. 220
Mapi Area near Rawlli^ Wyoming....................... ..

221

General Store, Port Steele, Wyoming.................

222

Officers' quarters. Port Steele, Wyoming......... 223

Barraoks wall. Port Steele, Wyoming,,, 224
Governor Chatterton's home, Port Steele, Wyo. 225

Powder House, Port Steele, Wyoming..............

226

Main Street, Carbon Timber Town, Wyoming.,... 228
Company Store, Carbon Timber Town, Wyo.,.,,.. 2^

Dug well and cabin. Carbon Timber Town, rfyo,. 230
Tie *snake*out’*. Carbin Timber Town, Wyo.,.,, 232

Log trestle. Carbon Timber Town, Wyoming.,.., 234
Sawmill ruins. Carbon Timber Town, Wyoming,235

Boom-tending boat. Carbon Timber Town, Wyo,.. 236

Powerhouse, Carbon Timber Town, Wyoming.••.,, 237
Glub Saloon, Walcott, Wyoming.,,,,,,,.,,.,... 239

General view, Walcott, Wyoming................................... 240
Map I Area near Gardiner, Montana..........................
2^

Head-gate shack, Jardine, Montana...............................244

Revenue Mill, upstream view, Jardine, Mont... 245
Revenue Mill, downstream view, Jardine, Mont.,246
The Welcome headstone, Jardine, Montana,............. 24?

�Ore ear9 Jardine• Nontax
Are onio mill, Jardine, Montana..
Overview, Jardine, Montana

,
...........................

Upper Bill, Jardine, Montana

.................

Moonlight on mill and bridge, Jardine, Mont.. 252

Sneloeed ^unge, Corwin, Montana..

253

HAppy Hollow, Aldridge, Montana

.

255

Water and kiln, Eleotrlo, l^ontana..., ,.,.,,,, 25B
Bow of kiln, Sleotrlo, Montana............

.259

Baohelor's oabln, Bleotrlc, Montana,.260
Mule bam, Eleotrlo, Montana. .,••••«.•

261

Mapi Area near Bnnle, Montana

263

.

Epleoopal Churoh, Pony, Montana,264

............... 265

Morris Mill, Pony, Montana,

Bealdenee, Pony, Montana
Isdell Meruautlle,

.............266

Montana..,

...

26?

Buelneee district. Pony, Montana,, 268
Coded ’’aesaage". Pony, Montana

.............................

Boarding House, Red Bluff, Montana.,,,,

269

. 271

Bjaoed buildings, Red Bluff, Montana

272

Boaz Mine, Red Bluff, Montana

. 27#

Pour taoe seesaw. Red Bluff, Montana,

.......... 273

Peanuts Mine oookhouse, Red Bluff, Montana.,. 273
T^loal reeldenoe, Virginia City, Montana.... 275
Overland Stage Office, Virginia City, Montana 276
Panorama., Virginia City, Montara
............. 277

Gunsmith’s Shop, Virginie City, Montana

278

�Walla Fargo Express Offioa, Virginia City,
Montaxia..................... .
279
Cheap Cash Store, Virginia City, Montana.... .^80

Gilbert Brewery. Virginia City. Montana............. 281

Locojwtlva, Nevada City, Montana

282

3tageooaoh. Nevada City. Montana

283

Outhouse. Nevada City, Montana

284

auby 3tablee. Hnby. Montana.,
pauper’s oabln. auby^Montana

286

286

$
Company Offloe. Ruby, Montana

287

Tranefoirmer building. Ruby. MoW«na

287

Steam dredgoc, Huby, Montana

288

Remains of dredge, /^by, Montana.............................. 289
Reflections on a puap. Ruby. Montana., 290

Mapi Area near Phllllpoburg, Montana
Deluxe bam. Cable, Montana.................................

292

Cable Mill. Cable, Montana...............................

293

Coro samploB. Cable, Montana.......................................... 294
Trl-level home. Red Lion. Montana..,,,.,,,,,

296

Boardinghouse, Rod Lion, Montana,,,.,.,,,,,,

297

Chloago Mino, Tower, Montana..,..,,,,,,,,,,,

298

Bay window. Tower, Montana................................................299
Storexjgj^aa* Tower. Montana...................... 301

Home of last resident, Granite. Montana., 302
Company Hospital, Granite. Montana..,......,, 303
Miners Union Bail. .Gxaulte. Montana.......................... 304

Mill and ruins. Granite Montana., 305

�i

Granite adlX, Granite, Montana,..................... ........... 306

Jlaahealthy, KlrkrllXe, Montana,...................... ,,,.308
Barracks, Kirkville, Montana..................... .. .............. 309

Plune, Kirkville, Montana,...................................... ...310
Moon over/Mill remalne, Kirkville, Montana....311

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                    <text>�N. Weis

MONTANA ABBA 1 (of-^&gt;
eo»t«tta&amp;=Ap^»oaXBBa±eiy:=3±Qfi::dte=pia.

JARDINE, MONTANA

/y

—From Gardner, at the north edge of Yellow­

stone Park, it is six miles by gravel road to the

town of Jardine.
miles.

These are six of Montana’s prettiest

The road angles up the north side of Yellow­

stone Canyon, crosses Eagle Creek, and immediately

drops over a rise, bringing the green valley of Bear
Creek into view.

-1-

Jardine, Montana

�N. Weis

Two and a half miles ahead lies the old
mining town of Jardine, but here, beside the road
is a scene of unusual beauty.

A small pond, its deep

waters lightly rippled by the breeze, nestles between

the road and a curve of protecting trees.

Toward

the far shore, a weathered shack stands in deep water.

A gangplank offers access, and inside are rusted
control wheels, their axles extending deep below the
water’s surface.
The lake seems too peaceful — too natural *
to be manj^de, but it is in fact the headwater pond

of a hydro-electric plant. A three-mile ditch contours

its way from the upper reaches of Boar Creek, bringing
water gently to this point.

Nine hundred feet below

the pond, the water gushes forth with tremendous
force.

Conducted downhill by a twenty inchedlameter

pipe, constricted to eleven inches at the exit point,

the energy developed— nearly (4^ hors epower

was

sufficient to light the mining town of Jardine^ and
to power both its mills,
Jardine was a company town — enjoying

periodic booms and suffering through the intervening
busts.

Each bust, however, was but a pause, awaiting

a new strike or a new sot of Investors.

-2-

Jardine, Montana

�N. Weis

Joe Brown caused the first excitement when

he discovered placer gold in Bear Creek.

That was in

1865t and the excitement increased when gold in quartz

was found deep within adjacent Mineral Hill.
In 1884 a small stamp mill was built to

replace the crude mule-drawn arrastra, but the rich
veins ran out shortly, and operations ceased in 1886.

Further prospecting brought new deposits to light.

The mill was refurbished and enlarged, and operations
resumed in I890.

Three years later the panic of *93

caused another shutdown,

Harry Bush arrived in 1898,

He caused

such vast changes that the town was named for him,
but only momentarily.

Three hotels, three mercantiles,

three saloons, several houses of ill repute, one church
and a school complemented the great number of company

buildings.
By 1899, the new mill was completed.
the "Revenue," it held forty stamps.

CalipH

Each stamp

weighed hundreds of pounds, and each in turn was

lifted five inches and permitted to fall on the coarse
gold-bearing ore.

minute.

Each stamp dropped ninety times per

One of the few surviving residents described

the scene this way.*

-3-

Jardine, Montana

�N. Weis

“With forty of them stamps going, the sound
was more than noise.

You could feel itI

Pelt good,

though — felt just like a paycheek on Saturday night."
The severe pounding required massive rock

foundations.

Six hundred perch of stone were used,

a perch being almost a cubic yard.

The payroll ran

nearly a quarter of a million dollars per year.

The

town had a post office, and the population of the

valley was measured in the thousands.
Mr. and Mrs. George M. Welcome were residents

before and after the big boom.

When George died, a

handsome stone was placed at the head of his grave.

Across the top, in large letters, is printed one
word ~ -WELCOME."

It is the first thing you see

as you enter the cemetery.

Some viewers are upset

by the startling salutation, others are reassured,
Ripley’s

/^^,B©llove ^t or not Rlplajr" referred to Jardine as
"the town where the cemetery says welcome."
The town was named "Jardine" about 1900,
after a popular company superintendent.

For three

place

years the^tewn- enjoyed prosperity.

By 1902 over a

half mllllon'fin gold had been recovered.

Other spurts

of activity -A there were twelve in all —. resulted in
a total take ofy2,2 million,gold^ between 1865 and 1926

^^4-

Jardlne, Montana

�In 1926, arsenic ore was discovered in some

of the tunnels.

An addition was made to the lower

The final product

mill to process the new find.

obtained was arsenic trioiide, a potent rat and bug
killer, and a widely used paint pigment.

The mill

processed nearly two hundred tons per day,
DDT

Some people claim that Pf&amp;aht killed the town

At least the discovery of DfDfTj ruined the market
for arsenic as an insectiside.

The plant closed in

19^2, reopened briefly in 19^^ to supply arsenic to

the military, then closed again in 194-5.

A "mysterious

fire destroyed the arsenic plant in 194-6, and the town'
population went from few to almost none.
Twelve families now live in Jardine,

Half

of these are outfitters, guiding hunting and fishing

parties into the unspoiled mountaini* . to the north
and east.

Of the several hundred buildings, only a

fraction remaliy.

On the west side of the creek are

a number of residences and an old store or two.

The

town layout is accurately shown on the Gardner, Montana,
15 minute topographic map,

A dilapidated bridge permits adventurous
access to a group of secluded shacks lying between
the two forks of Bear ^reek.

An old sign at the bridge

is accidentally appropriate:

-5-

Jardlne, Montana

�N. Weis

M-

T/?,A&lt;3Tassing at your own risk-

A windowless house displays a "WELCOME" sign over Its

hlj^hot door.

On the porch Is a placard that proclaims!

"RESERVED."
The east side was the company part of town.

The two huge mills, an empty saw*Talll, and several
dozen offices, cablnf^and a store remain standing.

A few years ago, Richard and Jean Blankenship
purchased the mining property.

They found a number of

buildings so far gone that they required destruction.
Others are being repaired and put to use as guest

houses.

The Blankenships have hopes of Installing a

ski tow.

Slopes and snow are already there In full_
sixty-five

abundance.

The town Is at an elevation of aixty^-f^ive-

hundred feet, and the hills on either side rise another

two thousand feet.
The blacksmith shop, at the mine adit, or

tunnel^outh. Is in nearly perfect condition.
an "improved" barrel stove.

It had

Fifty-gallon drums were

commonly used as stoves, with a door In one endy and
a stove'^ipe placed at the rear.

was a double-decker.

This stove, however,

The stove'~plpe led immediately

Into a second drum of equal size.

The stovepipe was

attached to the near end of this dru^ and extended

upward through the roof.

-6-

Jardine, Montana

�N. Weis

Near the smithy was an outhouse in an equally

good state of preservation.
was uniquely simple,

The seating arrangement

A four-inch-diameter log

smoothed by use — extended the full width of the

structure.

The twelve-foot width indicated a seating

capacity of six men.

The back rest was a three-inch

diameter log that also spanned the full distance.
A changing room, near the tunnel mouth, was
complete with a twenty-four-foot shower.

and benches were all there.

The lockers

One locker contained a

dusty, rotted towel,
I Evidence all about indicated a massive
.

--

her

human effort — ^lature did not release

willingly.

riches

No fortunes were made here, but there is

gold in Mineral Hill,

Reserves are valued —

by one Investigator — at five million dollars.

Most

of the twenty tunnels in Mineral Hill have low-grade

ore visibly in contact,
Jardine is on the bust now, waiting for the
next boom.

In the meantime^ the most industrious effort

being carried out on Bear Creek is the logging operation

conducted by the resident beavers.

And somehow, one

must agree — that is the way it should be in Jardine,

-7-

Jardine, Montana

�N. Weis

CORWIN, MONTANA

The Miner, Montana, 15 minute topographic

map revealed a number of prospective ghost townsr
Miner, Carbella, Sphinx, Cinnabar, Aldridge, and
Electric.

All had been bypassed by the highway,

several had deserted schools indicated, and one town,

named Electric, was at the end of a dead-»end road.

Of these six possibilities, only two were worth
visiting and photographing, but in the process of

searching out these sites, I came across a third
interesting remnant of early I900 vintage.
Corwin(Springs)is located on the highway,

but is nontheless deserted.

be called a town.

Perhaps it should not

It was in reality a resort hotel,

or spa, complete with hot mineral spring plunge,

recreation parlor, and horse bams.

Dr. P. E. Corwin

built a seventy-two—room, three-»story hotel on the site,

and proclaimed the mineral baths a definite aid to
healthy living.

Special trains left Livingston,

Montana, each weeR end, carrying several hundred visitors

and patients to the soothing comforts of Corwin Springs,
The tracks paralleled Yellowstone River for many miles.

Fishermen were given special treatment,

A pull on the

cord, and the train would stop, and three hundred

-8-

Corwin, Montana

�N. Weis

vacationers would wish the angler good luck.

The

fishermen needed only to flag down the next train

for a ride on In to Corwin, or for a return trip to
Livingston,

The hotel burned to the ground on Thanks­

giving Day, 1917.

The plunge Is still there, looking

somewhat like a modern fort.

Its parapets are empty,

the doors are barred, and the pool Is deserted.

The horse barns no longer cater to the dudes.
There are no gentle equines here.

Herds of domestic

elk occupy the fields on either side.

What a hand­

some steed an elk would make — and what a fantastic

ride a dude would takeI

9-

Corwln, Montana

�N. Weis

ALDRIDGE, MONTANA
Sometimes nothing goes right.

I turned

left off Mol Heron Road, crossed the ereek, and

stopped at a trailer house to ask for permission

and directions to Aldridge.

Two rather large dogs

took issue with my presence.

I rolled up my map,

pretended it was a weapon, and bluffed my way through.

Yes, I could drive up through the gate if I wished.

I would have to walk the last mile — would be better
to go on up the main road a mile and a half, then walk

cross-country.
The gate route sounded best to me, since it

led past Aldridge Lake and the cemetery.

At the gate

I was confronted with a chain looped about the gate
and the gate post.

It was secured by a railroad spike.

After ten minutes of work, I concluded there was no way
to get it open, and that the owner had made sure no one

could gain access.

As I drove out, the dogs barked

with a derisive note.

Still confident, I pursued the second route,
only to find that I had to ford Mol Heron Creek.

was high — too high to wade.

In an hour the light

was failing and I had found no easy crossing.
it began to rain.

It

Then

I retreated in four-wheel drive.

-10-

Aldrldge, Montana

�N. Weis

Luckily, I had learned of two old-timers
lA?k o
t used to live in Aldridge,

They had a vacation

home in the area north of Corwin.

It took only

minutes to reach the highway and follow it north
two miles to Cedar Creek,

Rudy and Leo Planishek, brothers, seventy-

two and sixty-eight years respectively, offered me
their kindest hospitality.

We spent a long evening

discussing the ghost towns of Aldridge and Electric,

Their cabin is on the south bank of Cedar Creek,
about three hundred yards east of U,S, Highway 89,

They have the finest garden in Montana,

Terraced,

fertilized, and babied, the vegetables have no choice

but to grow,

Rudy even lets the stream water warm

up in the barrel before he sprays it over the crop

something about not wanting to shook the tomatoes.
Rudy, the oldest, starts to tell each story.

About the time he has warmed up, Leo takes over.

Rudy

shows a noticeable disappointment, but is soon captured
by Leo’s version of the story, and listens raptly to

the end.

Rudy jumps in with another, better story,

only to have the ball stolen again.

surely understand one another.

The two gentlemen

I asked how long they

had lived together."Oh — just as long as we've been

-11-

Aldridge, Montana

�N. Weis

alive, about sixty-eight years — no, never married —
both of us always did the same kind of work — coal

mining mostly,*
Aldridge was established In 1897, and Leo

was bom there In 19OI.

Rudy was four years old then,

and the two youngsters grew up In one of the toughest
coal towns In Montana,

The town was divided Into

"Happy Hollow," the residential area

two partst

for the workers, most of whom were single, and^

logically, "Downtown," which was five hundred feet
down the hill below.
The company kept plenty of men employed by
promising to help them bring a bride over from Austria,

For $150 you could mall order a woman, but you took
One hundred and fifty dollars

what you got, or forfeited your money,

&lt;as a
A

hundred days* wages, and the company was happy to
put you on a withholding plan.

Rudy and Leo have many stories to tell.

One

of them Involved the kids of Aldridge)^ and a portable

whore house,

A "traveling maiy with two tents and two

women, set up shop at the lower edge of town.

started each evening at dark,
Leo added.

Business

"Like a drlve-in movie,"

The local women referred to the customers

as "fence Jumpers," and deplored the situation greatly
-12-

Aldridge, Montana

�N. Weis

The kids got together and formed a plan to help solve
the problem,

A fifteen-gallon beer keg was stolen,

filled with water, and aimed downhill at the two
tents.

It rolled straight and true, right up to the

last rock In front of the tent.

There It shattered

The vigilantes would

and slanted harmlessly by.

have to try again!

The coal mined at Aldridge was sent down
hill two miles to the town of Electric,

There It was

made Into coke that was In turn used by the smelters

to the north.

An efficient tramway used the weight

of the full buckets descending to pull the empty

buckets back up the hill.
was required.

No power other than gravity

A personnel-carrying cable car was also

operated between the two towns, and was affectionately

called the "Toonervllle Trolley,"
Rudy started work for the coal company In

1910» when he was thirteen years old.

He worked for one

month as a rock picker, and was looking forward to
collecting his first pay.

The mine closed Just before

pay'day, and Rudy still has not received his moneyI

The brothers were very disappointed that I
had not [reached the old town^slte.

I explained about

the gate and the railroad spike, and then listened to
the embarrassing tiruth.
In the area.

It Is a standard gate latch

Niggle It just right and It pops open.

-13-

Aldrldge, Montana

�N. Weis

It was too late and too muddy to return.

Leo said

there was only a shack or two left, and loaned me a
couple of old pictures of the town.

Aldridge may be dead and nearly gone, but
it is ever alive in the minds and words of the two
fine gentlemen named "Planishek."

-14-

Aldrldge, Montana

�N. Weis

BLSGTBIC, MONTANA
Founded by the Montana Coal and Coke Company
in 1898, Electric was the downhill coking end of the

two-town complex of Aldridge and Electric.

Coal was

originally shuttled dowifhlll to Electric by a wooden

flume.

Wet coal had to be dried before it could be

burned in closed kilns to form coke.

The drying

process took too long and the flume was inclined to

freeze up on cold days.

Consequently, in 190?^

the tramway was built,
"Old" Charlie Dickson was hired as tram

greaser.

He rode the tram ten hours a day, greasing

the tower wheels on the fly.

Each noon he would hop

off the bucket onto a convenient tower, climb down
and eat his lunch.

Shortly, the tramway would shut

down for the noon hour.

The tram stopped a bit early

one day and stranded Charlie over Hoppe Creek, a

thousand feet above the water.

They say Charlie spent

the balance of the day in close contact with a bottle
of rye whiskey.
At Electric, the coal was loaded on small
railroad oars and hauled by a dinky (a small locomotive)
to the kilns.

There were 25^ kiinr, each hemispherical

in shape/ and about twelve feet in diameter.

-15-

Railroad

Electrlc, Montana

�N. Weis

&lt;30

tracks ran above and^longside each row of kilns.

Brick layers, most of them Italians, would break open

each oven.

After cooling,

"pullers" would hook out

the coke, load It on the cars.

brick up the oven again.

The masons would then

Another smaller hole would

be broken in the top, six tons of coal poured in,
and the oven bricked over to seal out the air.

Heat

from the former batch was enough t© ignite the new

charge.

Seventy-two hours later the conversion

was complete, and the process was repeated.
grades were given thirty-six hours.

Cheaper

The coke was

shipped by rail to the massive smelters at Anaconda,

Montana.

Coke pullers were paid one dollar per oven.
A good man could pull throe a day.

This did very

little for a family’s standard of living.
much of the town was a near slum.

Consequently,

Dotted with sheet *-

iron shacks, the working man's residential area was

called "Tin Town,"
The business district was impressive by

contrast.

A massive company store and saloon proclaimed

on its false front in large block letters»

MONTANA COAL &amp; COKE TRADING CO.
A STORE WITH EVERYTHING IN IT

-16- )

Electric, Montsuna

�N. Weis

Inside, canned goods reached from floor to ceiling.

Minor competition came from the Pair &amp; Square Grocery,
but the lower prices were little inducement compared
to the credit on wages offered by the ^ompany store.

There were nearly five hundred workers during

the boom years, and the population of Electric was close
to two thousand.

The town was originally named "Horr,"

but in 1904’, when an electric plant was Installed,

the name was changed to •’Electric.’’

Electric Peak,

located a few miles south, and named for its unique

ability to attract lightning, may have influenced the
naming of the town.

In 1910 the mines at Aldridge ran into thin

seams and low-grade coal.
towns ceased.

Company operations at both

Aldridge died quickly, but Electric, on

the traveled way, lasted considerably longer.

Some

buildings were moved out, others bunaed down and were
never rebuilt, but the town remained a community

gathering point until the school closed in 194-5.
The town’^lte is now on the Charles and
Annie Mikolich property, about two miles south of

Corwin on the west side of the river.

Of the several

hundred original buildings, only the school, the Pair

and Square Grocery, a bachelor's cabin, mule bam.

-17-

Electric, Montana

�N. Weis

and two strings of charcoal kilns survive.

is now a garage.

The store

The bachelor’s cabin is decorated

with antlers, and located in the middle of a corral.
It serves as a convenient rubbing post for livestock.

The mule bam now shelters riding horses.

Sagebrush,

as high as your head, covers much of the traces of
yesterday’s endeavor.

The red-,brlck kilns, stubbornly

resisting the attack of time, make a fitting monument
to the people who lived in the town of Electric,

-18-

Electrio, Montana

�N. Weis

MONTANA AREA 2
This Wit Oentains approximately '55jC10--Wa3?d«»

PONY, MONTANA

--- § beautiful church, built solidly of
hand-trimmed stone blocks.

Its steeple lifted a

It was an Episcopal Church,

sinner's eyes to heaven.

built as a memorial to a loved one of that faith.
The church had no debts, and parishioners could rest
assured no collection plate pressures would be applied.
There was just one problem.

Very few Episcopalians

lived in Pony, and few of them attended.

-1

Eventually

Pony, Montana

�N. Weis

the church was sold to the Odd Fellows, who promptly
removed the steeple and printed "lOOP" over the door.
The church stands In Pony today, as proud
and dignified as an elder, watching his top hat blow

down the hill.
Pony's history Is full of strange stories

and even stranger people.

Gold was first located by

a gent known mainly by his short stature, and his
nickname, "Pony,"

He left town about the same time

they named the town after him.

Pony sits astride the confluence of Pony

Greek and Willow Creek, on the eastern slopes of the
Tobacco Root Range.

Harrison, Montana, and Highway 28?

lie six miles to the northeast.

The Harrison, Montana,

15 minute topographic map shows Pony and a number of
nearby sites.

The setting Is beautiful, the road Is

good, and the people are friendly.

The original town — about two miles upstream —
was called "Strawberry."

An outcrop of gold-bearing

quartz was found there.*- the vein widening to a generous
ten feet at relatively shallow depth.

The ore was rich

enough to warrant "on the spot" processing.

By 1875,

two mills were operating two miles below the mine.

A

store was added and the people of Strawberry drifted In.
-2-

Pony, Montana^^^^^

�N. Weis

In 1877, streets were laid out.

Strawberry died as

Pony sprang to life.
The mines slowly released their riches,

and Pony grew.

It took twenty years to skim the cream,

till only the low grade was left In view.

The Boss

Tweed and the Clipper mines had totaled more than

two million'^In gold.

Eventually the mines shut down

and people began to leave, but Pony had one more good
spurt leftI

An eastern syndicate bought the Boss

Tweed - Clipper property, and laid great plans for

development.

One resident claims the mines were shot?*

gunned — salted with gold and fired Into the quartz.

Whatever the reason. It was I900 and prt^erlty had

arrived again.

The new company built a massive three-

story brick office building about one-half mile west
o^^town o£ Pony

Willow Creek, and began the

construction of a one- hundred- stamp mill I

The office

Is still there — good as new — but Ino one seems to
recall what happened to the mill.
It was a great moment In Pony's history.

townspeople built a #12,000 -fchool.

with stores.

The

Main ^treet filled

Pour fraternal orders vied for members.

Three churches tried vainly to counteract the evils

of eleven saloons.

-3-

Pony, Montana

�N. Weis

The bubble burst when ore tests revealed
the truth.

Not only was the ore very low grade, but

it was of a type that required more than simple
crushing and separating.

to leave.

The developers were quick

The original min^owners moved back to town

and continued a modest milling operation.

By I9I8

the population had dwindled to three hundred,

A few

mines were still operating, their owners hopeful that
the next blast would uncover a lost vein.

The banker

was still doing business — he would keep your money

safe, but offered no interest.

The last mine closed

in 1922,

Nearly a half a century has passed.
only a few families live in Pony,
site to visit.

residents.

Now

It is a popular

The tourists often outnumber the

The Morris State Bank, standing alone at

the southwest corner of the main intersection, is of
particular interest.

Two stories high, with full

basement, the brick structure shows little sign of
deterioration.

INFORMATION
PROSPECTS

mines

9
Gilt lettering on the windows read^i
COMMISSIONER
NOTARY PUBLIC
JAMES A, FLINT

Spindle-back chairs and desks are still in place and
visible through the windows.

-4-

Downstairs is a

Pony, Montana

�N. Weis

tonsorial parlor, its bathtub dry and dusty. ’Half a
block east, and aoross the street, are two more de­

serted buildings.

butcher shop.

The wooden structure was once a

The cooler is open and empty of ice.

A "teller cage" type room was apparently occupied by

the bookkeeper.

Beside the butcher shop is the

Isdell Mercantile, a brick building with high arched

windows.

Inside, a horse~shoe balcony provides two

stories of shelving.

Scattered all about are receipts

from the years 1910 to 1933.

One shipping statement,

dated November 11, 1910, was for "Superior Oak Hamess"

that was shipped in from Marshal Wells, Duluth, Minnesota.
Q -

Father west, and across the street, are four more de­

serted buildings.

First is the Schriner Building,

with a large "Rex Flour" billboard painted on its

front.

Only the front wall remains standing.

Next

is the old Hoffer Hardware, and then the Rooming

House-Saloon combination.

Nearby is a two-story

brick multi-purpose fraternal club building.

Marshal William B, Landon was well known in

the Pony area — not for his law enforcement, but for
his strange passion for chiseling rock.

He apparently

became disenchanted with the neighboring town of Potosi.

-5-

Pony, Montana

�N. Weis

Selecting a large boulder beside the road about a

mile out of Potosi, he chiseled on It In bold letterst
"ONE MILE TO HELL"

West of Pony, on the north side of the Strawberry Mill

Road, is another of his masterpieces.

The rock is

opposite the stream, where the stream is closest to
the road, and is between the town dump and the cattle

guard.

The rock is a flat piece of granite, about

four by seven feet.

On it he has inscribed some

strange letters, unlike any in our alphabet — also a
maltese cross, his initials, and the date 1921.

He

confided to friends that it was just a hoax, to make
others think it was a secret treasure map.

Like the

jold lady -that liked blueberry muffins — and save^ up
an entire attic full — the old marshal just likeil to

carye rock.

He even carved his own tombstone, and

the town folk buried him beside it.
Two ghosts are said to walk the town at

night.

If true, then the ghost of William B. Landon

must assuredly be one of themi

-6-

Pony, Montana

�N. Weis

RED BLUFF, MONTANA

The Norris, Montana, 15 minute topographic

map shows Red Bluff as a town with cemetery, empty
buildings, and nearby abandoned mines.

The deserted

mines were prime indication that Red Bluff would be

Inspection showed that Red Bluff had

a ghost town.

long since passed through the "ghost" stage, and was

now in its thiird "reincarnation,"
Prior to 1864, Red Bluff was a stage stop
on the old Bozeman Cu^ff.

Located on Hot Springs

Greek, at the upper end of a narrow five-mlle canyon,
it was a popular place to gulp a bracer before facing

the rigors of the road.
1864 a large two-story stone building

was built on the north side of the thoroughfare.

The

number of chimneys indicates that each room had a fire^
place or stove.

The structure served as a boarding*"

house for miners from 1870 to 1900 or so, then was

converted to a residence.

Later, it became a hotel.

Now it holds the offices of Red Bluff Research Station

of Montana State University.
The town "died" in 1920, but in its prime

it had a bank, many residences, and (reportedly) one

thousand citizens.

Now only the stone hotel, a mine

-7-

Red Bluff, Montana

�N. Weis

tunnel, a few old shaoks and the cemetery are left.
The cemetery Is still In use, and well kept.
The older section has some Interesting headstones»
Joseph Waibank
of Kelghly, England
Died Age 60
Nov 10 1888

1/ O UIX lUcX T.
Jemima
X* XPlster
X O w wX
1845-190^
Faithful to the End

— and this tearful poem on the grave of a little girl

Lj'X. .

Ere Sin Could Harm or Sorrow Fade
Death Came With Friendly Care
The Opening Bud To Heaven Conveyed
And Bade It Blossom There.
Red Bluff had ten great years.

From 1870 to

1880 the Boaz mine brought ^200,000 worth of silver and
gold to the surface.

The Josephine did as well.

The

Gold Cup, Waterlode, Helene, and Grubstake were all

operating multiple shifts.

Located two miles south of Red Bluff, the
long dormant Boaz Mine was revived briefly In 1941 and

1948.

Both times It failed to pay out.

Here a flfty»

ton cyanide mill once spewed forth Its Vlipcous yellow
waste.

A dam across a small stream provided still

water, permitting the solids to settle out.

The dam

Is gone, but the solid yellow shelf of sediment remains.

-8-

Red Bluffjf, Montana

�N. Weis

At the mine proper, ajfjeautlfully square shaft, about
eight feet on a side, extends five hundred feet down^

ward.

Side drifts exit at the one hundred sixty—five,

two hundred sixty-five, three hundred sixty-five and
five hundred foot levels.

Poorly mounted on their

foundations, the buildings have taken on considerable
list.

Each has its own personality, the overall effect

being that of an amusement park fun house.

At the up^

hill end of the mine complex, a large machine shop

stands, its walls gone, but the roof providing welcome

shade for a dozen white-faced cattle.

The mine was run by an engineer with commendable
imagination.

When electricity came in, the steam boiler

was|converted to a hot-water heater,

A four-place

teeter-tottei^pivoted on a power pole, kept the kids

happy.

Perhaps it was originally a transformer support,

but the curved grooves worn in the center pole could
only have been caused by hours of play.
Just down the hill adjoining the Boaz, are
the shafts of the Peanuts Mine,

Several buildings are

there, one of them obviously a cookhouse.

The stove

is gone, but the chimney standsj and Just in front of

the chimney, squarely above the stove location, is
another Innovation quite ahead of its time.

-9-

A four-

Red Blufff, Montana

�N. Weis

by-.four cupola, about six feet high, contains screenedIn louvres designed to permit the escape of heat.

food must have been good.

The

Only a good cook deserved

such deluxe facilities.

-10-

Sed Bluff/^, Montana

�N. Weis

VIRGINIA CITY, MONTANA
The Judge agreed^ the place called Alder
Creek should have an official name.

After the wife of Jeff Davis?

But "Varina?"

It was 1864, and no

northern Judge would certify such a name.

He wrote

out "Virginia" Instead, and "Virginia City" it became.
In one year it was a full-blown town, with

hotels, schools, fire department, newspaper, opera
house, and hundreds of homes.

Buildings were going

up at the Incredible rate of one hundred each week,

and the population reached the ten thousand mark.
It became the capital city in I865.

Three-fourths of

a mile long, four streets wide — and nearly every lot
sold I

Money was abundant, and a multitude of

crooks moved in to take their share.

One bund red

ninety murders occurred in seven months.

Vigilantes

caught up with and hung five suspects, using the
conveniently exposed beams of a half-finished store.
Another was hung in Nevada City, and a few more,

including the ringleader, were dispatched in Bannack.
As in an early silent Western, the sheriff of Bannack
was found to be the mastermind.

His name was "PinmTnar,"

so the gang, whose members had now fled — or were

-11-

Vlrginla City, Montana

�N. Weis

the "Plununer Gang.”

dead., was finally given a name —

A

The Chinese laundry operators catered

especially to the miners.

Pant pockets were thoroughly

scrubbed, and the wash water then panned.

The gold

recovered often exceeded the fee charged for washing.

Oriental laborers moved in on the placers as quickly

as the miners deserted them.

Soon there were six

hundred Chinese panning gold, happy to glean the

trace of riches left by the first wave of gold seekers.
By 1895, even the Chinese gave up, and the town shrank
to six hundred. Pew people lived^^^ar round in

A
Virginia City after 1920.
In 19^6, the town caught the attention of

State Senator and millionaire ranchet* Charles Bovey.
He made a hobby of restoring the town to its original
glory.

Some saloons, stores, cafes, and one hotel

went back in business, making as few changes as

possible, with a code of accurate reconstruction care­
fully Imposed.

Some stores were restocked with their

original merchandise.
The stage office, barbershop, library, and

livery were repaired and refurbished.

By 1968, the

entire town was one big functioning museum.

-12-

Virglnia City, Montana

�N. Weis

There was gold in Virginia City again.

walked on two legs and was called "tourist."

It

Happily,

the prices were not high and the sights were priceless.

It was tnily an experience to walk down Wallace Street,
especially in the quiet of early morning.
Things changed in I968.

Virginia City lost

much of its charm when a modern store was built at

the edge of town. In front of the store, a gigantic

.
plywood cowboy now shouts commercialism down the length
W4 ''----- x.
of luTii Street. The echoes fall painfully upon the
ears of those who have tried so hard to preserve the

spirit of 186^,

-13-

Virginia City, Montana

�N. Weis

NEVADA CITY. MONTANA
Five hundred vigilantes gathered aroixnd
John "The Hat" Dolan, and draped a noose about his
neck.

Four thousand citizens watched as the victim

was raised, his feet resting precariously on a boaixi
held unfirmly by his captors.

Dolan admitted the

crime, but asked for mercy, as he was drunk at the
time.

The board tilted, and "The Hat" died quickly.

The crowd, sympathetic toward the victim, surged
forward, but the sound of five hundred revolvers

being cooked changed their collective mind.

They

retreated in haste.

That was Nevada City, Montana, in 186^^.

The

same year, eighteen hundred citizens voted in the town’s

first election.

Bom of the same boom that spawned

Virginia City, and located a short two miles to the
west, Nevada City was destined to a lively but abr|evlated
existence.

Seventy million in gold was panned in the

vicinity.

The extraction took only four years, and

when the gold was gone, most of the population drifted
to richer deposits.

Much of the town was left vacant.

The remaining citizens used many of the unoccupied

buildings for firewood.

The Adelphi Hall, Masonic

Temple, the hotel, and even the Star Bakery and Saloon

-14-

Nevada City, Montana

�N, Weis

went up in smoke.

The latter had advertised*

"An

honest loaf ... and something to wash it down,"
Charles Bovey, who headed the restoration of Virginia
City, also instigated the reconstruction of Nevada
City.

The aim here was quite different.

buildings are original structures.

Pew of the

Some have been

moved in, others have been built from scratch to

resemble the original.

The contents of these

buildings are not intended to be authentic.

One

holds a collection of old mechanical bands.

A

quarter in the slot will give you all the noise you
want.

Although no train ever passed through the town,

the collection of memopslAlla assembled here Includes
a number of old steam engines, coaches, and mi Ted
rolling stock.
One of the few remaining two-story outhouses

is attached to the rear of the hotel.
not a working model.

The outhouse is

It is a rather crude reconstruc­

tion of the real thing.

This type of annex was usually

built with an offset so that deposits made at the upper
level would pass behind the occupant at the ground level

The first visit to the lower floor during multiple use
was claimed to be a harrowing experience.

-15-

Nevada City, Montana

�N. Weis

RUBY, MONTANA

The gold bars had been poured especially
They fitted tightly into the pockets

shallow.

attached t© the heavy leather harness.

Built like
-------------- &amp;r

a double-breasted Sam Brown^belt, the should straps

accepted and distributed the weight of the heavy
metal.

The suit vest was put on next, and tightly

buttoned.

A hide/-away gun was strapped on.

After

donning coat and hat, the messenger stepped into the

sun, mounted his horse and rode out of the town of
Ruby.

The carrier was one of the owners of the

Cbnrey Placer Mining Company.

Millions of dollars

in gold were delivered to the nearest bank by "gold
vest courier" without a single rtfbbery attemptedI

Nearly ten million dollars in gold
dredged here.

A drastic turnabout for a small

community that began as a poor farm.
The Gonrey Placer Mining Company was formed

soonYafter geologist N, S. Shaler determined the
extent of gold in the gravel beds of Alder Creek.

He and Gordon McKay of Boston purchased the Conrey
Ranch and proceeded to lay plans for deep dredging.

The miners of 1864 had worked the area over, and

later the Chinese reworked it.
-16-

Observers had little

Ruby, Montana

�hopes for the third effort, but it paid off handsomely.

Harvard University shared in the profits when the

McKay estate was settled.
The brick building that was the poor-farm

hospital became the company office.

Most of the

paupers’ shacks — one-room chinked lo|g structures
with sod roofs — became quarters for employees.

The

power house, where twelve water-cooled transformers

once hummed twenty-four hours a day, was later converted

to a bam,

A three-story, ten-room hotel-boardlng'v

house was built, three saloons sprang up, and a
butcher moved to town and opened shop.

There were

two general stores, a post office, dance hall, and

a three-room schoolhouse.

The population held steady

at five hundred from I900 to 1922,

Since that time,

a number of fires have destroyed some buildings, but
the mining office, hotel, stable, a pauper’s cabin,
powerhouse, retort building, and several residences
are standing quite undisturbed.

The retort building,

with its furnace and vault, is preserved intact.
Ingot molds, lifting tongs, ovens, mercury bottles,
overhead tracks, and even a burgler alarm button can

still be found Inside,

The walk-in vault, built of

concrete walls thirty Inches thick, holds a mixed

-17-

Ruby, Montana

�N. Weis

bag of valuables.

Just above the potatoes (it doesn’t

freeze inside the vault), is a delicate weighing
balance and a set of brass scale weights.

One weight

is marked -120UZ - TROY," and is a one-^pound weight
measured in the Troy system.
still there.

The hideaway gun is

Also the leather harness used to secure
For bigger and bolder shipments,

the hidden gold bars.

a pair of saddle bags were employed, capable of holding

a full—sized ingot on each side.

The original equip­

ment and the old company buildings are owned and

carefully preserved by Lowell Gilman.

Lowell’s

father was company superintendent when the effort was

abandoned,
Somewhere between eight and ten million

dollars'* worth of gold and platinum were melted and
poured into ingots.

That represents nearly seven

tons of precious metal.

Standard ingots weighed

sixty to eighty pounds and were a bit larger than a
brick.

Hideaway bars weighed about one-fourth as

much, and were about the size of a bar of soap.
The first dredge, or gold boat, was named

the "Maggie A, Gibson."

It operated for five years,

gulping twenty cords of wood each day.

The gravel

reserves seemed endless, and a succession of dredges

-18-

Ruby, Montana

�N. Weis

wace built, each one larger and more voracious in

appetite for gravel than its predecessor.
Electric power was avilable in I906, and
A
new plans were drawn for a mammoth "all electrical"

machine.

It was to be larger than any other dredge

in existence.

Building a dredge was a complex operation.
First, horses and drag lines were employed to dig a
dry pond.

Timbers were laid out at the deepest point,
As soon as the joints

and the planking bolted on.

were packed with oakum, water was admitted to the

pond.

Complete with superstructure and machinery,

the monster had a weight of 4,070,000 pounds.

It

required thirty-three car~ioads of lumber and fortytwo car'l.oads of machinery.

It could pump twelve

thousand gallons of water and dig three hundred^hirty

cubic feet of gravel per minute.

The buckets were

linked into an endless chain, connected with link pins

eight inches in diameter.
feet deep.

The dredge could dig fifty

It wandered along in a zigzag manner,

digging a swath three hundred feet wide, moving ten
thousand cubic yards per day.

It could make a profit

on just ^cents'worth of gold per cubic yard I

Eight

men ran the dredge, while two others drilled test holes

-19-

Huby, Montana

�N. Weis

to determine the most profitable directionfbr the

dredge to take.

The dredges ate up, digested^and

redeposited more than a square mile of land.

The

location and extent of operations are clearly shown

on the Alder, Montana,

minute topographic map.

The dredged stream no longer knows its

own bed.

Each spring it finds a new path.

Each

dredge had carried its own pond with it as it slowly
toured the basin, and the ponds that remain mark the

scenes of their final efforts.
Amid the cattails can be found the bone^
like remains of the long dead behemoths that laid
this land in ugly waste.

slow, but ever sure.

Nature's retaliation is

Wind/blown soil, trapped in

the rocky windrows permits a few plants to gain a
foothold.

Quickly measured by nature’s clock, the

banks of Alder Creek will again become green, and

flowers will once more spark the meadows with color.

-20-

Ruby, Montana

�t

N. Weis

MONTANA AREA 3 6of -9)
Ooiitnlna auMriaxlrnfttel.r 32.Q0~W£H?'4g-.

GABLE, MONTANA

A

'~'Ma^s

generally a big help, but at Cable,

the cartographic aid was a complete bust,

I was using
Z-" ,

the 1908 edition (revised^ 19'^9) of the Phillipsburg,
Montana, 30 minute topographic map.

It failed to show

the new roads (that is to be expected), but it showed
some roads that did not exist, and located others

erroneously.

Cable wasn’t hard to find, but attempts

Cable, Montana

�N. Weis

to pass through to Southern Cross (another ghost town)
resulted. In my becoming hopelessly confused.

I was

about to pass by the mill at Cable for the fourth
time| when I decided to give up, concentrate on
Cable, and perhaps find Southern Cross the next day

via some other more understandable route,

I grabbed

my cameras, slammed the door and started walking up

the deserted gravel road, kicking at loose rocks
along the way.
away with

My frustrations lessened as I banged

creasing vigor.

The trajectories were

improving and I was beginning to take rather loud

vocal pride in my work.

That’s when I looked up,

A man was standing by the mine entrance — staring
at me,

I approached, considerably embarrassed,
”You lost?

Saw you go by three times."

"No," I answered,

"but I sure can’t find

Southern Cross,"
He was a kind man, hardly grinned at all.

He gave me all the right instructions, but I was so

red-faced and confused that nothing made sense.
Although Cable is not one of my favorite

sites, it does have an undeniable ghostliness.

On

the west side of Cable Creek there are three very old

cabins, complete with split log steps — nicely

-2-

Cable, Montana

�N. Weis

smoothed and firmly placed.

The cabins show a recent

(1930 or so) renovation with interior paneling and

modem fixtures. More recently, the Inevitable
vandalism has taken its toll.'^Next to the cabins,
on the downhill side, is a huge bam.

A cupulo-birdhouse-”^

lightning rod combination rides the ridge.

More acco-

modations for birds — probably martins — are spread

across the front of the barn.

With perching shelves

on the outside and boxed-in houses extending through
to the inside, nothing^it seemed^was too good for the
feathered friends.

Outside of ^itronella and fly^

swatters, birds were the most effective means of
mosquito control. *^Inside the barn, a flight of steps

with a smoothly worn handrail leads to the hay-loft
and grain blns.

On the main floor are stalls for

draft animals.

The basement level has more stalls^

and provisions for other animals such as cows, pigs,

goats^and chickens,
, The huge mill is across the creek and up

the hill a few hundred yards.

In a shaky state of

repair, it groans in the wind, shedding a few of its

remaining shingles with each gust.
of ore passed through this mill.

-3-

Thousands of tons

Large mine dumps

Cable, Montana

�N. Weis

Indicate extensive working underground.

Gold at Gable was discovered quite by­

accident,

A deep shaft was being dug to intercept a

suspected vein at considerable depth.

One comer of

the shaft nicked a gold-rich quartz vein at very-

shallow depth.
Subsequent filing of claims failed to

bring the expected stampede, due perhaps to a number

of previous false alarms,

A year later, in 1868, the

forty-ton mill was built and the Atlantic Cable Lode

began to pay off,

A severe cave-ln caused a temporary

shutdown in I869,

A second strike in 1873 revived

the failing community, but it, too, found the end of

the vein.

In I878, the town dwindled to a population

A thlid strike brought in a boom that lasted
z'
from 1883 to 1891 and netted three million in gold,

of one,

after high-grading,

A number of former employees —

it has been reported — suddenly bought fine homes and
fancy horses.

Reopened in 1902, the mining efforts

were expanded to three shifts in I906, then faded slowly.

All work ceased in 19^0,
Now, in 1969» the new owner has sent a mining

engineer out to inspect and evaluate the remaining ore
deposits.

The engineer has found that all manner of

Gable, Montana

&lt;r

�N. Weis

strange people visit the site. Including odd

characters, carrying cameras,

kick gravel and

talk to themselves.

-5-

Cable, Montana

�N. Weis

RED LION, MONTANA
Sometimes It Is fun to enter a ghost town
with no prior knowledge.

Then, after a careful

Inspection, compare one’s findings with the reports
of others.

At Red Lion there Is no choice, since

very little has been written on this community,

A few bare facts are available.

One of

the two mills at the site was built In I890 and was

horribly Inefficient,

The Hanna tunnel was deep, and

Its ores were rich In gold, Iron, and copper.

A

tramway, nearly a mile long, was built In I906, at

which time two hundred men worked at the mine-mill
complex.

The camp Is about seven miles northeast of
Georgetown, accessible by a well-signed gravel road
and well Indicated on the same Phillipsburg map used
to locate Gable.

To the right of the road, where It

crosses Flint Creek, there are a number of broken-'*
down log shacks and a few rock foundations.

Red Lion.

This Is

At first It looks like seven wasted miles,

but close Inspection reveals some Intriguing details,
A tunnel Is visible to the right (or south)

of the cabins, and water pours from It.

The flow Is

considerable, causing Flint Creek — when joined

-6-

Red Lion, Montana

�N. Weis

to double in size.

This Is probably the seven~hundred-*-

foot-deep Hanna tunnel.

A king-size pump must have been

used to keep It de-watered.

The cabins at the center of camp are largely

collapsed.

The ground is soggy all about, not con­

ducive to permanent construction.

One building shows

the remains of hearth and anvil bases, and was probably
a blacksmith shop.

Another seems to have been a dance

hall or saloon, and a third building, equipped with

shelves, was likely a mercantile.
The mill and tramway are now merely leveled

mounds of wood and bent metal.

Just up Flint Creek

from the mlll'^site is an old log cabin.

Old as far

as age is concerned, but brand-Jiew in design.

Dozens

of modem trl-level homes use the same floor plan.

Sagging four ways from square, its corner lock joints
feel the strain and slowly readjust.

stout seldom collapse.

Buildings this

They just ease their way down

like a tired old man making ready for bed.

Near the tri-level cabin is a marvelous old

two-story boardlng‘3iouse, its outside stairway

connecting with an elevated boardwalk.

Braced with

timbers, the broad eaves still protect the walkways

-7-

Red Lion, Montana

�N. Weis

from rain and snow.

The second floor was divided

into bunk rooms and since there were no chimneys,
one might assume they were xuiheated.

At 7300 feet

altitude, the winters can get mighty frosty.

The

kitchen downstairs was probably the winter social

center,
A thorough search of the buildings revealed

no receipts, newspapers, or other records that might
give further clues to the history of Red Lion.

Somewhere there is an old-timer who knows all about

the place and can string a hundred stories together
in a way that would bring momentary life to this old

,,camp.

-8-

Red Lion, Montana

�N, Weis

TQWBR, MONTANA
Roads emanate from Phillipsburg like the

arms of a nervous octopus.

The Phillipsburg, Montana,

30 minute topographic map is great for selecting sites
to visit, but of little value in determining which

road to take.

If you can find the gravel road past

the hospital and substation in southeast Phillipsburg,
follow it south, then east, remaining on the main road

for two miles, you might reach Tower,

The steep

winding road overlooks Phillipsburg for the first
mile, then heads up the valley.

Shortly you pass

between a deserted mine and mill, probably the Speckled

Trout, then head straight for a yellow mine dump.
this poln^ the road splits.

At

The right-hand route

curls around and climbs to the True Fissure mine.

The left route takes you up the main street of Tower.
Main Street is the only street in town.

In moments

you have passed several dozen cabins that make up the
town of Tower, and are at the Chicago mine.

Recently

active, it remains complete with stage, cable, hoist,

and bucket.
On the left, heading back into town, is a

fine old house that sports a three-sided angle bay

window.

Now weathered to a paintless gray, boards

~9-

Tower, Montana

�N. Weis

warped and decayed, it still retains the suggestion of

past beauty.
ft
Farther down the street is an old store,
false-»frented and log-sided.

Once used as a garage,

it now lies open and deserted.

It is very quiet here.

Not a soul is in

town, yet there are signs of occupancy,

A sign on

one door warns someone not to swipe anything since

Another cabin has a

he was seen the fird: time.

number of dynamite fuses, already capped, hanging

by the screen door.

Behind one house is an old

mine tunnel, fitted with a heavy wooden door.

Cold

air billows forth when it is opened, indicating that
it might be used for cold storage.

Tower never was a big town.

Built originally

to accommodate mill workers, it struggled along,

imitating the boom and bust of nearby Phillipsburg.
The first well-known mine was the "Speckled Trout,"

discovered in about 1870.

A mill was built in 1875,

and a boarding house constructed to accommodate its
workers.
Later, the Algor^uln Mine, rich in silver,

was developed just south of the "Trout,"

Charlemagne

Tower, for whom the town was named, was one of the
prime investors in the early mines.
-10-

During World War I

Tower, Montana

�N, Weis

manganese was found here.

The military demand was

quickly filled, and mining of manganese dropped off

until other uses of the metal could be found.
By 19^0, it was in demand once more, particularly as
an ingredient necessary to the manufacture of Improved
The True Fissure mine went back into

dry cells.

production and is still in operation.

While I had walked through Tower observing
its quiet scenery, deep below my feet there was
Men of the True Fissure were mucking a

activity.

gooey gray mass of ore,|shoveling it into ore cars,

and trundling the cars to the shaft for hoisting.
I learned of the operation from the

hoisting engineer.

The shaft house is located high

on the hill above town.

Inside, the engineer sits

with control levers and gigantic drums of cable in

front of him.

Through the window he could see the

top of the shaft.

On a two-&lt;foot-diameter dial, he

could read the stage location.

At the moment, he

was slowing the stage for a stop at the one-thousand-^
foot level.

He could bring it close, but for exact

matching of levels he relied on signals from below.
The bell dinged, and he lowered the stage a few
inches.

Later, after another series of signals, he

-11-

�N. Weis

started the stage up, with two tons of ore on board.
At eight hundred feet per minute, the load was

quickly topside, and being pushed to a point just
over the bed of a dump truck.

The unloader tripped

each car in turn so that it spilled into the vehicle.
^Later I visited the smithy.

He told me of his work,

stressing the fact that the mine had a water problem
requiring one thousand gallons a minute^be pumped
out, day and night.

That, along with occasional

mechanical breakdowns, kept him busy.

Tower is a different sort of ghost town —
deserted, but with activity far below^ and high

above on the hill.
There is no noise except the
periodic clang ojJ^ore cars being dumped. The modem

mining of manganese is but a faint echo of yesterday’s
exciting pursuit of silver and gold,

-12-

Tower, Montana

�N. Weis

GRANITE, MONTANA

The Queen Cltyl

World I

The Silver Capital of the

Each month a quarter million dollars'worth

of silver was tom from the earth.

The rich ores

poured out of the Granite and Bi-Metallic shafts at

an increasing rate.

Thirty million in silver in ten

years — then came the crasht

August 1, 1893, was a sad day in Granite.
Orders came that day to shut down the mine.

Within

hours the road to Phillipsburg was filled^ as thousands
fled down the hill.

Jobs might still be open in

Philj(.ipsburg, and each man wanted to be first in line.
Six hundred hardy souls remained behind to enjoy the

hollow luxuries of Granite, the fastest dying ghost
town in the west.

There had been luxuries in Granite, for
Granite had been a fancy town.

The three-story Miners

Union Hall would be quiet now, its springy maple dance
floor no longer pulsing to the rhythm of happy feet.

The staff of doctors would have few patients in the
overlarge company hospital.

A few shift bosses might

use the heated plunge, but the laughter of hardworking
men would not be there.

The four church congregations

were confronted by bewildered parsons.

-13-

The hotel and

Grani t e, Montana

�roller rink closed the first week.

Eighteen saloons

They closed not one by one —

did little business.

more like four by four.

Nourished by a few retired

miners and the skeleton crew at the mine, the town
of Granite hybernated In hopes that rising silver

prices might sometime warm It once again to life.

The map used for Gable, Tower, and Red Lion,
also covers the Granite area.

confusing.

Again the roads are

Leave Phillipsburg as If heading for Tower,

but make an abrupt right turn before passing the last
five or six houses.

The road crosses the railroad twice

then forks to the right and proceeds upTilll.

Although

serpentine, the four-mlle road to Granite Is easily

managed by ordinary passenger vehicle.
On the right, as you enter Granite, there

Is an old house surrounded by a rickety picket fence.

Not long ago Its resident Installed a television set.
The antenna still perches atop the roof — totally

Incongruous with the structure beneath.

In this

house lived the "grand old lady of Granite," the

last resident.

She died In I968,

A narrow gravel road to the left leads to

the main part of town.

On the right Is the two-story

hospital. Its covered porch half gone, the chimney

-1^-

Granlte, Montana

�N. Weis

falling down, and the shingles all but gone.

Shortly,

a left turn leads to the old Miners Union Hall

a

magnificent remnant I

It stands alone and lonely.

Intact in front. In complete shambles at the rear.
Vandals have broken the windows and stolen the fixtures.

To the east are a number of old residences.
walk-In coolers dug into the hill behind.

A few have
Some miners

started with a rock-walled, sod-roofed dugout, and
graduated later into "sawed board" homes, and used

the sod house for storage.

Most of the wooden structures

are now gone, but many rock soddies remain.
Pljrther up the hill and to the right are, in

order, an old brick bank vault, the rock company house,
and several broken-down "houses of ill fame,"
street was named "Silk Stocking Row."

The

The close

proximity of the two enterprises would indicate that

the company condoned and controlled this facet of

evening entertainment.

Granite was most thoroughly a

"Company Town."
Located just above, and overlooking town, are
the extensive stone foundations of the old Granite Mill.

Like hornets’ nests, coke ovens nestle in the rock
lean
foundations. Burned timbers^atand aslant, their fireblackened metal fittings standing out prominently.

-15-

Granlte, Montana

�N. Weis

A shiny corrugated metal building stands in
the tiny basin where once the famous "Granite and

Bi-Metallic" shafts poured forth their wealth.

Inside,

the hoist engineer waits for the signal to raise the
stage.

There are men below checking every stope and

drift.

The shaft has been cleared to eighteen hundred

feet, and there are plans to go down another seven

hundred feet.

The new owners, Bi-Metallic of Heccla,

are well acquainted with the mine’s past production,
and are gambling that "there’s more where that came
from."

-16-

Gran1te, Montana

�N. Weis

KIRKVILLE (CLARK), MONTANA
Pew people visit Kirkville,

I would have

passed it by, had it not been for the cherished (and

dog-eared by now) Phillipsburg, Montana, 30 minute
topographic map.

It clearly shows a double railroad

spur, a number of buildings, and a flume — all
indications of a community that was once a going concern.

Situated one mile south of Philjtipsburg, the
town of Kirkville is easily located — just follow the
railroad tracks to the large twin chimneys.

The road

dead-ends at the vacant two-story brick office building
of the Bi-Metallic Mining Company.
The adjacent mill was built in 1888 to

handle the ores from Granite.

A two-mlle tramway

brought ore down in quarter-ton lots and returned wood

and coal to Granite.

Originally a fifty-stamp mill,

it was quickly enlarged to one hundred stamps capable

of handling two hundred tons of ore per day.
The mill was gigantic — eight levels, one

hundred^fifty feet widej| and nearly four hundred feet

long.

It required five hundred employees to operate.

The ores were crushed in beds of mercury — the stamps

splashing the expensive amalgamating agent freely on*~'to

-17-

Kirkville, Montana

�N. Weis

the floor.

Five hundred employees made quite a town.

Bachelors lived in the many rooming houses.

Families

built residences just east of the mill. A number of

workers lived in Phil^Jipsburg, but in spite of this,
Kirkville was the third largest town in theTarea.
Sometime after 1908, the town was renamed

"Clark," but by then activities had largely ceased.

In 1967 the mill burned to the ground.

During the

intervening years, most of the residences have burned
or been moved, yet there is much left to see in
Kirkville I

' "

Beside the tracks are several large machine

shops and warehouses full of ore cars, track, ore

buckets, stages, and all manner of spare parts.
Strung on down the line are the assay office and pouring

room.

Both are complete, minus only the smaller movable

equipment.

The pouring room has large kilns, ladles,

scales, and a steel-doored walk-in vault with numerous
hefty shelves.

Heavy bars of silver once rested here,

row upon valuable row.

A few yards fftrther, at the burned-over mill,

"second effort" mining is going on.
operation.

It is a two-man

One man digs out the earth from under the

-18-

Kirkvllle , Montana

�N. Weis

old amalgamator stamps and dumps it into a hopper.

The second man feeds the earth into a rotary washer
where the coarse material drops out.

The fine sediments

zl^sag their way down a long wooden sluice, or ^ong
^om, leaving shiny droplets of mercury in each crevice.

When mercury shows up at the bottom of the sluice, it

is time to shut down and clean up.

The sloppy tecnhlques

of 1890 are paying off today.

Across the tracks are the old carpenter and
blacksmith shops,

A long wooden flume runs behind the

In front are extensive tailing ponds.

buildings.

Half

buried in the sediments are an outhouse, collapsed shed,
and several wagon wheels.

As in an old travelogue, the setting sun

casts a glow upon the face of the burned-over mill.

Shortly the darkening skies were dimly relit as the
moon rose, heavily shrouded with clouds.
of 1890 seemed to return.

The grandeur

The mill looked whole again.

The moon, the towering chimneys, the

threatening skies, all combined to create a mood not
easily shrugged.

not welcome.

Suddenly it seemed that visitors were

Another moment, and the past must be

forgotten — the present rejoined.

-19-

Kirkville

4

fff S&gt;nk-.

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                    <text>HELLDORADOS

�other Books by the Author;
*1 All About Grizzly Bears

All About the White-Tailed. Deer
Ghost Towns of the Northwest

�Helldorados, Ghosts and Gamps of

the Old Southwest

by

Norman D. Weis

Photographs and. Maps by the Author

The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd.
Caldwell, Idaho 85605

1975

7

�© 1975 by

The Caxton Printers, Ltd
Caldwell, Idaho

International Standard Book Niamber 0-00000-000-0 ’
Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 00 006000
O'-

- -2 ^^3 -

Lithographed and bound in the United States of America by
The CAXTON PRINTERS, Ltd.

Caldwell, Idaho 85605

000000

�Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
“o3, ghosts, and camps of the old South

west.

towns, Ruined, extinct, etc.-q(-3(-ps
2
Mines and mining--■3 outhSouthwestern
.
Southwestern States —
western States-History.
&gt;
History, Local.
I1
75-85117
ISBN O-87OOU-2b-5“2

��J CONTENTS

Page

oo

Preface

.

Introduction

.....................................

oo

Py?T I — CALIFORNIA

■^ea 1

Cerro Gordo

00

Swansea

00

Barwin

00

Area 2

Hart

•••••••••

00

00

Barnwell
Sagamore Mine Camp

.....

00

Area 3,

Garlock

00

Atolia

00

.

00

.......

00

Coolgardie Camp

Area 4
Masonic
Bodxe

.

•

.

00

.....

Area

Columbia

00

Fourth Crossing

00

Volcano

French Corral

.......

00

......

00

�2-2-2
Conteixts

Page

yi
PART II — ARIZONA
Area 1

Silver King.......................................................................... 00
Sonora

.........

00

Area 2

Oleator

00

Crown King

00
........

00

.

00

,,,,,,

00

.........

00

Oro Selle

Jerome.............................................
Stanton ...
Weaver

.

.

Octave................................................................................... 00
Area 5

........

00

.........

00

Goldroad

Oatman

Mineral Park................................................................. 00

White Hills .

00

PART III — NEVADA

Area 1

Bullfrog.......................................................................... 00
Rhyolite

........

00

Gold Point.......................................................................... 00
Lida

.........

00

7

�5-5-3
Content;

Page

Area 2
..............................................

.

.

00

Belmont .......

.

.

00

Ione.......................................................

.

.

00

.

.

.

00

....

.

.

00

.....

.

.

00

..............................................

.

.

00

.....

.

.

00

.

.

00

.....................................

.

.

00

Shermantown ......

.

.

00

.

.

00

Manhattan

Berlin.............................................

Illinois Mine Camp

Area 3
Virginia City
Gold Hill

Area 4
Monte Cristo

Hamilton

Treasure City

PART IV ~ ISEtf MEXICO

^ea 1
Gardiner

Dawson

......

.................................................... 00

Colfax.........

00

Area 2

Cerrillos

.......................................................................... 00

Madrid................................................................................... 00
Area 3

Mongo lion

QO

Shakespeare................................................................. 00

Valedon .........

00

�4-4-4

y

Page
PART V ~ COLORADO

Area 1
.......

00

.........

00

••.....

00

HoWardsville

Eureka

Animas Porks
Area 2

Irwin................................................................................... 00

Gothic City.......................................................................... 00
Area 5

St. Elmo.......................................................................... 00

00

Turret.............................................

Calumet......................................................

.

00

Wolf................................................................................... 00

MT VI ~ UTAH
Area1-

.

Spring Canyon

Standardville
Latuda, Rains,

00

.......

00

.....

00

Mutual

A^a 2

Prisco..............................................................

00

Cisco.........................................................................00
Bibliography

...............................................................

Index ...........

00
00

�PRSPACB

old.

Truth springs easily from the young and the very
The X^id-^mer has outlived his Inhibitions, and the

younorster has yet to feel the need of precaution.

Their

frank assessments and blunt statements are refreshing In
a time when studied obscurity Is often the rule.

Old-jrlmers and youngsters have played an Important

part In this book.

Without them much wisdom, humor, and his*?*
Si

tory would be missing.

To them I owe my greatest debt.

In the process of visiting, photographlngy^and

gathering Information on the several hundred sites from which

material for this book was selected, much help was offered by

strangers that I now count as friends.

As the text was assembled, valued assistance was

rendered by a number of talented Individuals.
To the following, I would like to tender my warmest
thanks»

Mike Herblson, Head of Libraries, University of
Colorado^gampuo

Colorado Springs, whose objective criticisms

have always been valued:
My wife. Jay, who has typed each of these nearly

60,000 words at least four times:
Senator Gale McGee of Wyoming, for assisting In the

procurement of maps both current and historical:

�Darwin Fetters of Nipton, California, C. P. Thorpe
of Cordes Junction, Arizona, and John Strahan of Ouray, Colo-*

radc^for taking the time to pour over a multitude of mapsj

Grace Middleton of Silver King, Arizona, Just for
being Grace Middleton;

Slim Riffle of Red Mountain, California, who burned
his steak while telling me about old Atolia;

C. 0. Carlson and Olive Hunt, who loaded me down

with ore samples and fossils;
Yancy Perea and Gene Vick, the twelve:yearcold sages

from Los Cerrlllos;
And my very special thanks to the &gt;31d:J^imer from

the Mayer, Arizona^area who insisted that he remain "unanimous.

His tales were grand, and with a little scrubbing I was able to

include most of them.

Assuredly I will honor his request ~

his identity will always remain "consequential" with me.

�_2E7

INTRODUCTION
It may have been a wild and woo^y &gt;ti^ldorado,
mining
a desolate a|y(» camp high above timberline, or a stubborn

community of farmers joined In an Improbable endeavor.
Whatever the nature of the town, its reason
&amp;
for exlst^yice evaporated. It may have been the collapse
of overblown stocks, pinchedrout veins, or the realization
that the extremes of nature were beyond domestication. In
2^
any event, the citizenry vacatedif not entirely, at least
to an overwhelming degree.

With the passage of time, the reason for the
town’s existenceand the cause of its demise may have be/^

come clouded.

The longrdeserted remains of once;active
3

towns become a fe^lnating challenge to anyone possessing
a modicum of curiosity.

Some deductions are easy.

Square nails gave way

to machines made round nails in 1885, therefore an old hotel

with square nails was probably built before 1885.

Tin cans

with hands-soldered dots centered in the tops were last made
in 1915^ ergo, a roundxnailed shack with soldersdot cans

strewn about was built after 18853 and probably deserted
prior to 1915.

Cl)^-

&lt;^^*1

�Generally, local museums and libraries can pro-^^

vide a reasonably complete history of the deserted towns
in a given area.

However, in the case of the littlerknown

site, little of worth can be found in the existing lltera/^
ture.

Occasionally an ;3id=ia^mer can be sought out, but

some towns (like Wolf, Colorado'^ defy complete deduction's

and permit only a speculative history to be drawn.
Researching the little-known site, however, is

easy compared to the original determination of its existence
and location.

Much of my effort was directed toward that

end.

To find an unknown site by direct ground search of
an area might take a lifetime.

By air

easierTstut prohibitively exnenslve.
be to scan a few thousand maps.

the job would be

A third method would

The last option is at pre^

sent the only one available to me, although I am working on
a means of making economical air search possible.
geological
The United States has carried out a
survey

for nearly one hundred years.

Maps of the west have been

drawn in great detail^ and published for general use since
1896.

The first places to be mapped were the population

centers and the mineralized areas.

The latter show a great

number of mining towns and camps, most of which were short =lived.

Frequently^ two maps of the same area, but of different

�dates, will reveal the sudden shrinkage indicative of a

newly deserted town.

Sven with just one map available^

a number of likely "unknowns" can be pinpointed by scanV'
ning carefully for mine shafts, tunnels, dead=end railroads,

and unoccupied buildings.

Topographic maps that show the

ground surface and cultural development in sufficient deV^

tail for such study are available from the United States
Department of the Interior, Geological Survey, Denver Federal
Center, Denver, Colorado, 80225.

The Howardsvilie, ColoradOa?! minute topographic

map, scaled 1 to 24,000 (that’s about three inches to the
mileshows the ground surface in extreme detail.

A

section of that map is reproduced here.
Howardsville (A), at the upper left corner, shows

an aerial tramway connecting an empty rectangle in town with
another rectangle half a mile up the hill.

The tramway is

labeled^ "abandoned^^ which Indicates that the mine above

and the mill below are probably very old.
leading to the mine

A trail shown

invites *§nisite"^inspection.

The

Pride of the West Mill is shown in black and appears to be
operating^ however, the map is dated 1955. and the mill
mlght have closed down in the interim.

A search of the literature showj^ that Howardsville

was a rather well know/» but small ghost town with one mill
still operating.

shut down.

Obviously the

Pride of the West’ had not

Howardsville was selected as a site worth

�visiting, primarily due to the number of old mine camps
evident on the map.

Any one of them could be a worthwhile^

little^known site.
On visitation, the old mill at Howardsville was
found to ^e a marvel worth several rolls of film.

The mine

and mill complex at (B) and (C) turned out to be a disappoint^
ment.

The mill was completely gone, and little evidence of

the Old Hundred Mine could be discerned with field glasses.
An early summer snow prevented my visiting (3),
the Gary Owen Mine, and (D), the unnamed mine on Rein Gulch.
The four buildings and six tunnels, all in a cluster, still

Intrigue me.

I will hike up there some summer day, and

while I’m at it, I’ll visit the Buffalo Mine (P), and

perhaps circle about so as to take the pack trail, (J),
back to the road.

The pack trail and the road were part

of the original route into the area.

That route came up

the headwaters of the Rio Grande River, then topped over
Stony Pass, on down Stony Gulch, to Howardsville.
The Little Fanney Mine, (H), clings to the hillside,

making a sreat photograph for those owning a long lens.

The

Highland Mary Mine, (K), was once a town of the same name,
I had great hopes that this site would hold a number of
buildings but found only foundations.

Glassing the hillside

showed that item (G), The Shenandoah, was not worth a
2,000-foot
thou8a^^^™^®e«^ climb. All in all, the area was a bust, except

for Howardsville

and the Little Fanney,

�My map analysis of the six southwestern states

haed. revealed nearly a thousand possible "unknowns."

A

search of existing literature showed the great majority
to be, in fact, rather well known.

Of the remaining two

hundred or so, less than one in ten proved worthwhile.

Many were wiped out.

Others had been reactivated.

The topocrraphic maps most commonly used in this
type of research are the 7l minute/n inch to the mlle^ and

the 15 mlnutenl inch to the milek The designation of 7|
minute

or 15 minute

refers to the ancles of latitude and

longitude included on the map.

Of course there are 60

minutes to a decree, and 360 degrees make a great circle of

the earth. The important thing to remember is that the 7i
minute map^ shows^only one-fourth the area of a 15 minute

mapbut shows^it in four times the detail.
Although the Paradise Peak, Nevada, 15 minute map

is of lesser detail than the Howardsville 7^ minute map, it

contained more in the way of possible "unknown" sites.

The

portion of the map reproduced here includes the area from
Gabbs, Nevada, at the southwest, to Lodi Tank at the -Northeast

Items (A) and (B) represent towns supposedly still
active ~ active as of 1948, the date on the map.

The towns,

however, might have bo^m» deserted in the past 25 years.

Item (C), Downeyville, was listed as a site, meaning it was
a deserted town twenty-five years ago.

No buildings are shown

�but more than twenty shafts
indicated.

and numerous prospects are

Items (D), (S), and (P) looked promi si ng

pecially (P), the Illinois Mine Camp.

Pour empty squares

and eight solid squares indicated that the camp consisted
of (1^ buildings,of which were residential in nature.
top of that, the mine was labeled "inactive/'

On

It looked like

a good prospect, provided it had not been totally destroyed

or reactivated since 19^8.

When I visted the Gabbs area

I found Brucite,

(A), to be part of a large^ opens pit mine.

(B), The Sierra

Magnesite Gamp, was nothing but concrete slabs.

At Downe;^
&gt;

Ville, (C), there was nothing.

1^

The Victory Tunarsten Mine,

(D), was a small mine still operating.

Lodi, (S), once

quite a town, was now just one small water tank.

But (P),

The Illinois Mine Camp, was Indeed a find.
Only a few of the dozen buildings were standing,
but the remains at the site posed an interesting puzzle,

ultimately pieced together by/search of the groundi and
Nevada
subsequent visits with Informed people at Gabbs, The|i^State
Archives eventually provided a small additional amount of

information, mostly about the old town of Lodi.

Of the six^

teen possible unknowns on the two maps, only one had proved

to be virgin of print and worthy of a day's research.

Compared to the difficulties encountered in locating
the wbrthwhile site, recording the remains on film was simple
provided the elements were cooperative.

I made it a practice

�to spend the night in most of the deserted communities, in

order to have the advantage of evening and morning light.

Bleached boards respond well to black*andswhite photography^
provided the light plays across the surface — ■— to accent
the grain and warp of the wood.

Sometimes an hour’s wait,

or a return for a last shot from a particular angle^made an

ordinary scene into something spectacular.

Staying overnight

also permitted experimenting with time exposures by moonlight.

Interesting and surprising results can be obtained

if time

and ^llm are spent freely.
During my 7,000«mlle tour of the Southwest, more

than 300 rolls of film were exposed, copious notes were
taken, and a great number of oldctimers, nears olds timers,

youngsters, and former residents were interviewed.

Most

folk were willing to visit*, however, some required a bit of
cajoling.

My inteirviewing techniques have always been less

than spectacular

andy^often abrupt to the point of alienation.

Lately there has been some Improvement.

My approach has

graduated from "foot in mouth" to "tongue in cheek."

Old-timers are often reluctant to talk with a
stranger, especially one

takes noteS,

On a number of

such occasions I found the application of tongue oil (a

cold beer from the cooler) to be of great value.

The social

bility that resulted crenerally overcame any suspicions.

���TOPOGRAPHIC MAP SYMBOLS
VARIATIONS WILL BE FOUND ON OLDER MAPS

Hard surface, heavy duty road, four or more lanes

.. .

Boundary, national

Hard surface, heavy duty road, tv*o or three lanes

State

Hard surface, medium duty road, four or more lanes. . . .

County, parish, municipio

Hard surface, medium duty road, two or three lanes

Civil township, precinct, town, barrio

Improved light duty road................................................................. -

Incorporated city, village, town, hamlet.

ZZZZZliZZZZZZ

Unimproved dirt road and trail

Dual highway, dividing strip 25 feet or less
Dual highway, dividing strip exceeding 25 feet.

......

.....................

Reservation, national or state
Small park, cemetery, airport, etc

..........-------------------

Road under construction

........................

Land grant

========

Township or range line. United States land survey

Township or range line, approximate location
Railroad, single track and multiple track

Section line. United States land survey
Section line, approximate location

Railroads in juxtaposition............................................................... d=i=t

Narrow gage, single track and multiple track
Railroad in street and carline

.,___

Township line, not United States land survey
Section line, not United States land survey

Bridge, road and railroad..............................................................ZjZZ^Z

Drawbridge, road and railroad..............

...........................

Footbridge.......................................................................................................

Tunnel, road and railroad........................................... :
Overpass and underpass

.+

Section corner, found and indicated........................................ +

................................... ZjZZ^Z

Boundary monument: land grant and other

□......................□

United States mineral or location monument

a

ij

II
Z

I

Important small masonry or earth dam
Dam with lock

\

Index contour.............. ..

Intermediate contour. .

Supplementary contour

Depression contours . .

Fill......................................

Dam with road

.n-rrn

Levee.................................

&lt;

Canal with lock

1 /
,
Cut...........................

Levee with road............

Mine dump.....................

Wash...........................

Tailings.............................
Buildings (dwelling, place of employment, etc.)

Tailings pond.................

Strip mine........................

Distorted surface.........

School, church, and cemetery

Buildings (barn, warehouse, etc.)

Sand area........................
•

.. . .

Power transmission line

........................

Telephone line, pipeline, etc. (labeled as to type)

...................

Wells other than water (labeled as to type)

oOii

Gravel beach...................

Perennial streams . . . .Intermittent streams; .
Elevated aqueduct....

,

t&gt;.~ Disappearing stream . ..,-------

Water well and spring.o

Tanks; oil, water, etc. (labeled as to type)

Aqueduct tunnel

oGas

.......... • • • ©Water

Small rapids

Small falls

Large rapids

—~ -L”'
....... .iiii------ , Large falls

o...................... 8

Located or landmark object; windmill

Open pit, mine, or quarry; prospect........................................... y

x

Shaft and tunnel entrance...............................

Y

Dry lake

Intermittent lake

n

Foreshore flat

.*

sJ—
TrZyTTZ':??.-,.,
'

\ , Rock or coral reef....

"

Sounding, depth curve.Piling or dolphin

Horizontal and vertical control station:

Exposed wreck

BMA5653

Tablet, spirit level elevation

Other recoverable mark, spirit level elevation

Sunken wreck.................

Rock, bare or awash; dangerous to navigation

*

s*

A5455

Horizontal control station: tablet, vertical angle elevation VABMA9519

Any recoverable mark, vertical angle or checked elevation

^3775

BMX957

Vertical control station: tablet, spirit level elevation
Other recoverable mark, spirit level elevation.................

X954

Checked spot elevation..............................................................

. .

Unchecked spot elevation and water elevation

y.5657■

xaszs

. . .s/o

51^

�Of the more than two hundred sites visited, sixty­
seven have been chosen for inclusion in this book.

The

selection includes wild towns, quiet camps, some well-known

ffhost towns, and a smattering of "unknowns."
It has been a loner but enjoyable endeavor locating
and visiting each of these sites.

Darkroom work and writing

of the text has brought added satisfaction.

I wish an

equally pleasant experience to all those who tour "Helldorados
I &lt;£
Hinias Camps and— flUowxts of the^^Southwest.”

gaxtion aditorr

Chanue -last oontonoo t-o-fit tit
■^elected ■

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                    <text>SDITI?JG INFORMATION

1.

Please keep the reproduction of maps in introduction

as full size as possible in order to prevent distortion

of scale.
2.

Sequence of states mav not be altered, except that last
three may be interchanged.

3.

I have deleted one weak area in Utah.

Probably no

further deletions will be required.

If so, the last

two towns in Arizona should be the first to go.
4”.

Text is about 56,000 words.

There are 285 Black and

White photos, and 6? towns are covered in 6 states.
5.

I have made no list of illustrations this time.

Let's

leave it out — okay?
6.

I’ll leave the tbble of contents up to you folk.

7.

A number of color slides have been included foh the cover.

8.

The picture key is merely a guide to location — don't
feel that it must be adhered to exactly.

9.

/

Am writing Gordon concerning my feelings on format.

10. Author's pix and information will follow.

ROTS OP RUCK

�^LLDORADOS-Weis
G D
'
~ *
ball mill
bathhouse

boardinghouse
boomtown
■

M K 0 P

dance hall
diehards
dry-wash
dry wash

cave-in

millsite
mine shaft

open-pit
powerhouse

old-timer

coalfield
comedown

core drilling
crossbeam

cussword

E g G H

Q R S T

sidewall

end-to-end

railhead

slabwood

flatcar

rainwater

snowslide

flywheel

speakeasy

guesswork

ranch house
rearview mirror

gunslinger

rockfall

springwater
storefront

hard-rock (adj)

rockslide

sunbleached

jackstrawed
jeep (l.c.)
lifeblood
(like - solid as a suffix)

.

switchyard
tollgate, tollroad

sawlog
secondhand

theat^

U V V X Y Z

upside-down
icebox

,

ropework
runoff (n)

shutdown (n)
sidetrack (v&amp;n)

I J g L

:

sweepup

head-on
hometown

soddy

water hole
worktable

zigzag

tie rod
townsite
townspeople,^^

�BIBLIOGRAPHY

Bancroft, Caroline,

Six Racy Madams.

r
Boulder, Colqsad^t

Johnson Publishing Co., I965.

Barnes, Will C.

Arizona Place Mames.

General Bulletin No. 2.

Unl-^rolty of Arizona

Tucson, Arlze*iai Unlvorelty of

Arizona^ 1935.

Beebei Lucius M., and Gleurg, C.^I.

The American West:

Pictorial Epic of a Continent.

New York:

The

E. P. Dutton

and Go.,^?955.

Brown, Robert L.

An Empire of Silver.

Caldwell, Idaho:

The Caxton Printers, Ltd., I965.

3
---- Ghost Towns of the Colorado Rookies.

Caldwell, Idaho:

The Caxton Printers, Ltd., 1971.

---- Jeep Trails to Colorado Ghost Towns.
The Caxton Printers, Ltd.,

Caldwell, Idaho:
3%^

5
---- Colorado Ghost Towns, Past and Present.

Caldwell, Idaho:

The Caxton Printers, Ltd., 1972,
Buffum, E. Gould.

Six Months In the Gold Mines.

Los Angeles:

The Ward Ritchie Press, 1958.
California State Parks and Recreational Department.
Historical Landmarks.
Carr, Stephen L.

Sacramento:

California

I968.

The Historical Guide to Utah Ghost Towns.
Publishing Co.,

Salt Lake City, Utah:

Western Spies1972.

�Gold Is the Cornerstone.

Caughey, John W.

Berkeley!

Uni-v^fffllty of California Press, 19^8.

July^l9^0j March, 19^1} July, 19^1}

Colorado Magazine.
January, 19^2.

Cook, Fred S.

Legends of the Southern Mines.

Traveler,

California

/Mb date.

Daughters of the Utah Pioneers.

Grand

1972.

County, Utah*

Driggs, Howard R.

Grand Memories.

Westward America.

G. P. Putnam's

New York!

Sons, 19^2.

Eberhart, Perry.

Guide to the Colorado Ghost Towns and Mining

Gamps.

Sage Books, 1959.

Denver, Coloaadai

Fisher, Vardls, and Holmes, Opal Laurel.

Gold Rushes and

Mining Camps of the Early American West.

Caldwell, Idahoi

The Caxton Printers, Ltd., 1968.
Florin Lambert.

Western Ghost Towns.

Seattle, Wash^gtont

Superior Publishing Go., 196I.
---- Ghost Town Trails.

Seattle.Washi
ngton!
A

Superior Publishing

Co., 1964.
3 lA.

—-—Ghost Town Treasures.

Seattle, Washington!

Publishing Company, 1965.

Superior

�Gudde, Erwin G.

California Place Names.

Berkeley:

Univ»goi-»y

of California Press, I969.
Hall, Prank.

History of the State of Colorado.

Chicac-oJ

Illtnaioi^ Chicago Blakely Printing Co., I889.

Hill, Rita.

Then and Now, Here and There Around Shakespeare.

Lordsburg, New Mexi^eei
Huber, Joe,

Privately printed, I963.

The Story of Madrid.

Albuquerque:

Privately

printed, I963.

Anybody’s Gold:

Jackson, Joseph Henry,

Towns.

San Francisco:

The Story o^Kining

Chronicle Books, 1970,

Gold Rush Album,

Jackson, Joseph Henry,

New York:

Charles Scribner’s Sons, 19^9,
Jackson, William Henry,.

Picture Maker of the Old West, with

text based on diaries and notebooks, edited by Clarence S,

New York:

Jackson.

Johnson, Robert Nlel.

Callfe«*4i«:

Lee, Bourke,

Charles Scribner’s Sons, 19^7,

Southwestern Ghost Town Atlas,

s
Susanville,

Gy Johnson and Son, 1973.

Peath^ Valley, The Immortal Desert.

New York:

Random House, 197^.

Lockwood, Frank

Pioneer Days in Arizona.

Macmillan Co .^932.

New York:

The

�Looney, Ralph,

Haunted Highways,

New Yorkj

Hastings House,

1968,
Ghost Towns of the West,

McDowell, Jack, Editor,
Gall3^gnt-ai

Miller, Joseph,

Lane Magazine
Arlzonat

Menlo Park,

Book Co,, 1971,

The Last Frontier,

New Yorki

Hastings House, 1956,
Murbarger, Nell,
Califojaaias
Myrlck, David P,

Ghosts of the Glory Trail,
Desert Printers, Inc,, 1956.

Railroads of Nevada and Eastern California,

Berkeley; Califagnlat

Nadeau, Re mi,

Palm Desert,

Howells North Books, 1962,

Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of California,

Los Angeles:

Paher, Stanley W,

The Ward Ritchie Press, I965.
Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Gamns,

Berkeley; California}

Reeve, Prank D.

Howells North Books, 1970,

History of New Mexico,

New York:

Lewis

Historical Publishing Co,, I96I,

Roll^, Andrew P,

Galiforniat

A History,

New York:

Thomas Y

Crowell Go,, I969.

Sherman, James E, ourufi* Barbara H,

Norman, Oklah^aa:

Ghost Towns of Arizona.

Univepnl4y of Oklahoma Press, I969.

�S11verberg, Robert.

Mew York:

Ghost Towns of the American West•

Thomas Y. Crowell Co., I968.

Gold In Them Hills.

Ston:?, Phil.

\

M. Y. ;
Garden City, Ne^Yerki

tAmV. &gt;

Doubleday (an^ Com^aiyif» 1957»
I

United States Forest Service,

Maps of the National Forests

of the Southwestern States,

United States Geological Survey,jTopographlcj|||aps of areas of

Interest In the Southwestern States,

Utah Historical Quarterly, selected Issues, 1928-33.
Gold Mines of California.

Wagner, Jack R.

Berkeley; Qallfornlat

Howell-North Books, 1970.

Watkins, T. H.

Gold and Silver In the West.

Callfogntai

Palo Alto,

American West Publishing Co,, 1971.

Wolle, Muriel Slbell,

The Bonanza Trail.

BloomlngtonJ Indiana

Unlvwpolty Press, 1958.

Woods, Betty,

Now

Ghost Towns and How to Know Them.

Press of the

Young, Otis E. Jr., Western Mining.

of Oklahoma Press, 1970.

Santa Fe, N.

19^9.

Norman, Oklahoma:

UnlvegoXty

�LIST GF ILLUSTRATIONS

Photo
Number

N

Howardsville Map

cj t

Paradise Peak Map
Topographic Map Symbols

5

Map: California Area 1

oo

Zx^tv
-III 00 am
00-^

Waste dumps of Union Mine

00

6

Buildings at Cerro Gordo

00

1

Trackless trestle at Union Mine

00

4

Sporting house in Cerro Gordo

00

2

American Hotel, Cerro Gordo

00

"Town Council," Cerro Gordo

00

57
a

)

9

Cerro Gordo]^by moonlight

i.

00

00

Rock building in Swansea

00

Swansea's famous smelter

00

10

T

Deserted main street of Darwin

OQ

11

Q

Abandoned general store, Darwin

00

12

J

Old Darwin schoolhouse

00

15

M

Company town north of Darwin

00

Map: California Area 2

00

ni

0

1)

&gt;‘-1

16

2

Ruins of cabin in Hart

00

) 1

14

5

Chimney of Norton residence. Hart

00

) 'I

18

6^

Strange device left in Hart

00

19

7

Olay roaster and pulverizer

00

Q a

15

Z

Wooden flywheel of Hart's water system

00

IT

17

it

Old stirring paddle above Hart

ooj, ]f

�2-2-2

illustrations

Photo
Number
20

Old stage station in Barnwell

00

/

21

?

Water tank at Barnwell

00 Q .J

25

;

"Tin camp" at Sagamore Mine

00

Rock walls used little cement

00

Q _

Sagamore Mine gallows frame

00

Q

Map2_0alif01*111 a Area. 5
Large arrastra used to crush ore

00
00 ? k

3

Miller Building,

00 5 Z

24 J
______ 22

2^

25

Oarlock

4

Existing buildings in Oarlock

00

Slanted track for hoisting tungsten ore

00 ? 5*

Mine shaft at Atolia

00

Old buildings, Atolia

00 ”5* 5^

;

Deserted placer camp, Coolgardie

00 O’ 7

J

Map;

California Area 4

00

^2

Q

Rock dugout at Lower Masonic

00

c

55

3

Ruins of Middle Masonic

00

o

Chemung Mine near Masonic

00

v*

Remnants of Upper Masonic

00 V

56

Collapsed log cabin

00

56

Pittsburg Liberty Mill and aerial tramway

00

!

VI

Sunset at Success Mine

00

_______

45

Windlass-equipped, well in Bodie

00

44

Hoist works of Red Cloud Mine

00

45

Early radial-arm saw

00

46

Close-up of 1860 radial-arm saw

00

47

Old dump wagon in Bodie

00

J

28

50

51

54

55

'

4

�5-5-5
List of illustrations

Photo
Number

1

59

r

42

T

00

00^7
00

00

Grave of Evelyn Myers

00

}

Map: California Area 5

00

/:&gt;

Washington Street in Columbia

00

Wells Fargo Building, Columbia

00

Front of Wells Fargo Building

00

S4

Fire wagon, Columbia

00

4/

Interior of drugstore, Columbia

00

51

52
55

49
----------------------55

Green Street, Bodie

/ t&gt; Main Street gildings, Bodie

48

50. .

Eastern portion of Bodie
Old buildings in Bodie

40
41

Psige

3 Fulton and Washington streets, Columbia

00

Narrow bridge over San Antonio Creek

00

}

"3 Livery at Fourth Crossing

Ci

00 4

Shade, high noon. Fourth Crossing

00

St, George Hotel, Volcano

00 4 (a

Broad rock walk in Volcano

00 4

61

Old hydraulic gun, Volcano

00

60

JiQQT of old jail. Volcano

00

62

3^ Volcano’s famous Old Abe

00

66

]

68

Q Wells Fargo Building, French Corral

00

3^ First long-distance phone office

00 7

56

58

)

59

67
65
64

65

Elton 0. Smith, French Corral pioneer

Longest single-span wooden bridge
4 Side view of longest bridge

Covered bridge near Camptonville

__________

I

00
7

00 7 7
00
00

7

�List of illustrations

Photo
Number

Page

69

Old schoolhouse in French Corral

f

Map: Arizona Area 1

71

3 Machine shed at Silver King Mine

00 V ?

70

Q Grace Middleton, Queen of the Silver King

00

o

00

?

00

V

72

V

75

Headquarters, Silver King Company

Home of hard-rock miner

....................... X ................................ .....
J ’KenaecQ-bf. open-pit mine

7^

15

___

__________

QQ

T M^: Arizona Area 2
5 Old residence in Cleator

00

Turkey General Store

00

3 Main residential districts, Cleator

School built with WPA funds

OQ

76

Cleator General Store

00

Crown King

00

Old building in Crown King

00

Doghouse in Crown King

00

82

00

80

Crown King /reneral store

84

House of pleasure, Crown King

85

. ....

V?

00

15

)

.. ^7

§

*^6

00

Moonlight on Crown King's ruins
...Ttl.

................................ ............. -

••

■ •'

00

86

/ Bmish almost hides Oro Belle

81

Old company office and bank

OQ )

88

Mystery building, Oro Belle

00

89

Moving saloons by mule

90

) Jerome clings to Cleopatra Hill

®
I

00

s
i

74

�List of illustrations

Photo
Humber

Page

91

Church built of old powder boxes

00

o

92

Large abandoned buildings of Jerome

00

o 6

95

Little Daisy Hotel, Jerome

00

7

9^

Old home in Jerome

00 / n

9^

J Stanton as it appears today

96

Powder house near Stanton

00 I'

97

Cactus in rattlesnake country

00 ) I

Buildings used in gold mining

00 p

99

Weaver’s tiny post office

00

100

3 Burned-out residence, Weaver

)

98

Mill ruins. Octave Mine

) 0

©0

3

H

101

I )

105

^0* 0. Carlson and his ball mill

102

3 Rock water reservoir in Octave

00

105

b Bullion house. Octave

00

I

104

1Foundation laid SBT without mortar

OQ

o

00 p 7

00 n

7 Map: Arizona Area 5

00

106

I ^Roofless ruins, lower Goldroad

00 J

107

13 Adobe hotel,

Goldroad

00

108

Building bxxrned to save taxes

00'^'^

109

Grout-and-rock staircase

00

Beautiful desert flora

110

I

111

11 North entrance to Oatman

00 j

112

a? Lee Lruaber Company, Oatman

00 J 3 o

114

U Oatman's old drugstore

00

00

3 3

�6-6-6

\

List of illustrations

Photo
Number

Palie

115

iMBX

116

Ruined parts of tramway

Tramway, Tom Seed Mine

QO
00

115

3 South end of Main Street, Oatman

00

117

7 Wild burros beg for snacks

00

No burros allowed

118

/

I

I

00 )
00 )

119

} Mill at Keystone Mine

120

k) Head frame, Keystone Mine

QQ

121

3 Mineral Park’s second mill

00 / 3

122

)

Last building in White Hills

125

P

i

00 f

Cactus in White Hills cemetery

00

Map: Nevada Area 1

00 / H ?

124

Adobe walls. Bullfrog

00 ?

125

Hot sun curls shingled roof

00 )

126

Sand-blasted headboard

127

Ornate gravestone, Bullefrog
"
Buildingj.

129

la

00 I

00 )

0

00 I
00

}

150

Overbury Building, Rhyolite

151

Bars on windows of Rhyolite jail

128

Impressive depot in Rhyolite

00

152

Evening light on Cooke Bank Building

00 &gt; b

g

Gold Point general store

00 )

L

I

00 I

/b/

155

j

155

Q,

Gold Point’s business district

00 ) \

154

*2

Deserted mine near Gold Point

00

Old home, Lida

00 )

157

1

�7«7-7

List of illustrations
Photo
Number

158

Page

Small cabin in Lida

J Map: Nevada Area 2
145
159

g Deserted Catholic Church, Belmont
Main Street, Manhattan

00 !

QQ Yu
OO-..

00 J

140

Manhattan homes still in use

141

Mine shack and head frame

142

Parts of small stamp mill

145

Q Impressive rock work, Belmont

00

147

ZyLeaning wooding buildings, Belmont

00

148
144

00 I If 6
00 IC

"I

00

J

00

)L

’71

Old cowboys never die

I Belmont’s main thoroughfare

00 ) 7

149

Nye County Courthouse

150

Mill ruins near Belmont

146

Cosmopolitan Music Hall, Belmont

151

) Ione from Shamrock Canyon Road

152

‘5? Unusual rock home, Ione

153

3 Engine at Shamrock Mine

154

155

156

Once-fancy home

Ione

J Berlin is smog-free
Old thirty-stamp mill, Berlin

158

) Hoist engine, Illinois Mine

159

"p Wreckage of metal tanks

157

00 ]
00

) V ^1

00
00 1 "7

OO^^l

b Miners’ Union Hall, Virginia City

--

00

00.. m. ..... ..... .
00

1

00 I
)??______

Small smelter built in 1878

/ Map: Nevada Area 3

160

n /

00

00 ) f Y
00)

G

�vjist of illustrations

Enoto
Bumber i

Page

161

S’ Two churches, Virginia City

00

162

p") Fourth Ward School, Virginia City

00 ) f f

165

I 4 Main Street, Virginia City

00

164

G Honky-tonk piano player

165\

p Old engine in Virginia City

00

169

p Massive head frame. Yellow Jacket Mine

00

167

S Beer wagon in front of brewery

00

168

I I Gold Hill Hotel

C166

170

1^ Old railroad trestle
^Freight wagon at Gold Hill

'Z

7

(o'

00
00 I

00

I / Map; Nevada Area 4

171

p Smelter ruins at Monte Cristo

00

172

RHock foundations 180 years old

00

J

175

pRoof of building at Monte Cristo

00

d o

174

Ij Hamilton’s business district

00

?

175

PUnknown building, Hamilton

ooQ4

176

K Storm clouds above Treasure Hill

00'S o

177

pRuins of Withington Hotel

00

178

IJ Rock walls in Treasure City

00^3

179

pTreasure City’s main thoroughfare

00

180

RMine dump near Treasure City

ooS f 0

181

1/ Old walls in Shermantown

00 'S I I

182

^Crusher in Shermantown

00 S / S

185

1 Chimney of adobe smelter

00

o

0

J

'7

�Photo'
Hxunber

j Map: New Mexico Area 1
186

187

3 Ooke ovens in Gardiner

00 S’!

3 Close-up view of coke oven

00 3

184-

Tom Hay of Gardiner

00'^ ?

185

Company house in Gardiner

oo'^^l

188
189

^Mule drivers in Gardiner

Foundations of coal washer

190

) One of Dawson’s remaining homes

191

Mule barn made of cinder block

00^^ y
00

"J

00 Q

ooQ'^ L
192

3 Power house and chimneys near Dawson

00 Q

195

Zy Italian gravestone, Dawson

ooQ

9

oop

s i

; Dickman Hotel, Colfax

195
196

199
197

198
200
201
202

205

Colfax Grade School and church

oo5 'g :j

3 Adobe ruins near Colfax

00^ S J

J Map: New Mexico Area 2

00 ^ 3

■j Present fire station, Cerrillos

00^1^

^General store, Cerrillos

qq"3 2

3ire-ravaged hotel, Cerrillos

00^17

) Unpainted homes in Madrid

00^
I
00^^^

QHotel on Madrid's main street
gold 769 was a busy train
7Miners’ Amusement Hall

oo'^
00

^Catholic Church, Madrid

204

/ Map: New Mexico Area 5

00

y

�10-10-10
KList of illustrations

Photo
Number

Page

205

^General Store, Mongo lion

00

3Renovated stores, Mongolion

00'3^9

206

Mine was a big producer
^Panney Mine near Mongollon

00

^Cemetery cross made of pipe

QQ

7Weathered wooden cross in graveyard

00
00

207
208

209
210
211

/ Old town of Shakespeare

215

/ Henry Olay Mine, Valedon

212

QCompany stores in Valedon

214

Huge opening, Atwood Mine

215

^Surviving buildings, Valedon

_____
[j 0

00 ^1^'3
QQ^ Ll*
00^^'^

_____

°°

)Map: Colorado Area 1

216

^Weathered old mill at Ho wards vi lie

217

3Anchored cable of aerial tramway

00^
00 "7 7 3

00
00^ ^

218

Turnabout wheel of tramway

219

i) Mountains behind Howardsville

225

^Large boardinghouse, Eureka

224

^Old boardinghouse still in use

oo"^^

220

f Miners' shacks, Eureka

00

221

'^Water tower. Eureka

222
225

229
251

Mine on slopes east of Eureka

00 *3 "3o

^Old wagon axle in Animas River

00

301d mill on Houghton Mountain

00

l^Distant view of Bagley Mine complex

00 9*^7

^Buildings at Bagley Mine
252

00

8

�11-11-11
List of illustrations
Photo
Number

Pase

f6

227

/ Tom Walsh home in Animas Forks

00

226

^Summer snow at Animas Forks

00 ? V

228

250

255

Vriain street, Animas Forks

[)IiOg jam across Animas Fiver

°°

_______

/ Map: Colorado Area 2

QQ

?

3 Little log cabin in Irwin

3 Forest Queen Mine

QQ

4/steam tractor at Forest Queen Mine

00

Cable hoist at Forest Queen Mine
^John Hahn, owner of Forest Queen Mine

QQ

258

^Gothic Town Hall, built in 1880

00 3 b p

259

I Old pay shack, Gothic

OQ

3 Colorado mountains near Gothic

00 3 0 3

) Map: Colorado Area 5

00 3 b

241

^St. Elmo is lively ghost

00? ^6

242

J St. Elmo Fire Company and City Hall

245

"I Miners ’ Exahange, St • Elmo

254
255
256

257

240

qq'^^'^

}

00 3 b
00 3 &amp;

)
i^Sun curls St. Elmo boards

00

245

LFull moon shines on St. Elmo

00 3 I £)_____

246

J Ruins of Turret

00

247

Qcity Hall in center of Turret

qq3

248

3 Gregory Hotel, Turret

00 3

4

00

244

251
252

Store and meat market in Turret

3 b '7’

H

3
'^4

^Log post office. Turret

00

4Turret in early morning light

oq1&gt; t L

----- -- —------------------------------------------------------------

�12-12-12
List of illustrations

Photo
Humber

Page

255

f Calumet's stage station

254

Q Huge boulder at end of stage station

00 '? / 7

255

^Boiler of Wolf's smelter

258
259

260
261
264

262

Ruins of homes, Wolf

00

00

) Map: Utah Area 1

00

QSpring Canyon from north

00

3 Decapitated building. Spring Canyon

00

Hydrants protected against cold

Insteps that lead nowhere
j^Company store in Spring Canyon

007

265

7 Lone streetlight in Spring Canyon

00 3 3 o

266

SLarge machine shed. Spring Canyon

ool 3 f

261

^Building in Peerless

270

) Giant blower near Standardville

26^

268

r,'

^One of Wolf's finer homes

00

of Standard Mining Company

3Offices

271

)Company offices in Latuda

274

212

1

?01d crane near Standardville

269

275

00

Old ore cars

^Welcome to the Mutual Store
^Latuda's small jail

00^5’7

�15-15-15
List of illustrations

Photo
Number

Page
Seattle wander through ruins of Mutual

275

276
277

7 Coal mine on Spring Canyon

00

00 3 7j I

Utah Area 2

285

^BuildiJigs in Frisco

00 3

286

3Hole in mountain near Frisco

00 ?

289

290

^Twin skips at King David Mine
Waste dump west of Frisco
L&gt;Small residence in Frisco

V 292
295

QQ^
00

287
288

/

00

Coal tipple, Mutual
7 Map

00

|7 Tattered remains of fancy dugout

00

Sunset over the King David
j I Last business to close in £*Cisco

00 ^^ §
00 3 &lt;^(

Cisco Motel

00 3 s if
295

296

Open 24

hours

Hold drilling rig at Cisco

end

list illustrations

00 3

�FOR HELLDORADO
Norman Weis

CALIFORNIA PHOTO DaSORIPTIClj
n

No. 1

The trackless trestle of the

Union Mine curves

his:h over the remains of Cerro Gordo

No. 2

The American Hotel, built in 1871, is the fanciest

structure in town.

No. 3.

Massive waste dumps of the Union Mine seem to
A*
threaten the existence of Cerro Gordo.

No. 4 .

One of the smaller sporting houses in town.

Note

the tiny rooms or **^ribs.

No. 5

The Cerro Gordo '^Town Council'^

Jack Smith, Barby

Smith (Mayor), Cecil Smith, and a "stranger," Hod
Hodrlguez.

No. 6.

Hoops that once held wooden slatted vats together
now frame the buildings at the upper end of town.

/

No. 7 .

Cerro Gordo by moonlight.

the backs'round .

Keeler d^ry lake is in

�a (cont

No. 8.

aock building in center is probably part of the

Much of the original town&lt;:^**‘^^
Wiii^
site has been covered with shifting sand dunes.

old town of Swansea.

No. 9 •

Only a small portion of Swansea’s famous smelter

is standing.

No. 10.

Deserted main street of Darwin.
D

No. 11 .

Note the anemic

on the hillside.

Defunct cost office-general stored once sold Green
Streak Gasoline.

No. 12.

Darwin’s little school house apparently served other
purposes from I876 to I900.

No. 13.

Sxtensive company town just north of Darwin has been
empty for (1^years.

•

Chimney of the old Norton residence in Hart is framed

No. 14

by branches of a Joshua tree.

No. 15 .

The wooden flywheel and walking beam of Hart’s municipal
water system

carted in from San Francisco in I900.

�(n nn M

No. 16^

Sbowins' sl0:ns of two renovations, cabin at east
end of Hart appears to "be in need of a third

No. 17-

Wooden barrel hoops form a fiorure ei-^ht around

the old stirrins; paddle at an unnamed gold mine

and mill on the hill above Hart, California.

No. 18 .

Strancre device was probably used to break clay
deposits during second-effort mining in Hart.

No. 19’

After crushlnor, clay was roasted and pulverized.

No. 20 ’

Venerable old^^age ^tatlon in Barnwell was the

first structure built and the last to remain.
Building has been modernized and enlarged a

number of times.

No. 21

Water tank at Barnwell appears to have been con
structed shortly before staple station was deserted.

No. 22 •

Sagamore Mine vallows frame stands over the

collapsed remains of its hoist house.

3-

�JfH.1 fnrnlfl—(. oontlnuoi!?-)'

No. 23.

**Tin &gt;2^mp at the Sagamore Mine was built durlnar

the later tungsten mininjr period.

No. 24

Sagamore was remote^^and lime was scarce.

Chimneys

walls, and entire buildlncs were constructed with

a minimum of cementlno: agent.

No. 25-

Buildings in Carlock were made of a variety of
materials.

The two in foreground are of sawn logs,

the one at the rear is adobe.

No. 26 •

Larsre arrastra was once powered by steam engine.
Wooden sprocket pulled four large drag stones in

circular manner, crushing scold ore beneath.

No. 27*

Miller building^ erected in 1897, sported a classy^

*
angled entrance.

Buildlnsr served at various times

as stage station, veneral store, and bar.

No. 28 •

Tuna-sten ore was hoisted up the slanted track and

dumped into waiting ore cars.

Huge quantities of

scheelite, an ore of tungsten, were removed from

the ground below Atolia.

�Uo.

Several larsje buildings In old Atolla are beginning
to show the effects of weather and depredation.

Buildings were probably boardInsC^uses and offices.

Wo.

All of Atolia’s many old mines seem to enter the

ground at the same peculiar angle.

Shafts proba.

bly paralleled the slanting beds of ore.

Wo.

Deserted placer camp of Coolgardle once had every
convenience, even a tree house.

No.

Marvelous example of a rock dugout

at the

site of lower Masonic,

No.

Middle Masonic, once the bustling commercial center

of the trio of towns, now consists of two cabins

and numerous piles of rubble.

No.

The Shemung Mine, two miles southwest of Masonic,

is in the process of being reactivated.

No.

Remnants of Upper Masonic string out along a side
canyon just east of Masonic Springs.

�ggciif oimla ( eeatlnuogl &gt;

Mo. 36

Collapsed roof of old log cabin gives a rakish

appearance to the eaves

Mo. 37

Sunset at the Success Mine on the road between

Masonic and Brid(report

Mo. 38

The Pittsburg Liberty Mill processed ores from its
own shaftand from the Serita, half a mile up the

hill to the left of photo.

Aerial tramway once

connected the Serita with the Jiill

No. 39

Honeycombed Bodie Bluff overlooks the Standard Mine

and the eastern portion of Bodie, California

No. 40

Prom left to right, the JPost pffice. Odd Fellows Hall

Miners' Union Hall, ,M^rgue, and ^he Boone Store and
Warehouse

Mo. 41. * View lookincr east down Green Street.

Methodist

Church is at left, livery on

Mo. 42

Expansive boardwalks fronted the buildings on the
west side of Main Street

�Oftlifognla (oont-tw
No. 43*

One of many windlass:equipped

No. 4^’

Hoist works of the Red Cloud Mine, one mile south

due:

wells in Bodie.

of Bodie, are now mounted at the western outskirts

of town.

The peculiar "ribbon" cable measures

1)6 by 5 inches

1 j"

No. ^5‘

cross section.

Ordinary table saw at leftj^ and an early version
of a radials arm saw at the front of the shed.

Long

support arm pivoted at top, permitting saw to be
drawn forward to cut lumber to length.

No. 46 ‘

Close-up of the i860 version of the radlalt-arm saw

shows blade, draw handle, lower drive wheel, and
broken drive belt.

No. 47,*

This old dump wafron is worth an hour of stUdy.

Hand-:cranked worm gear permitted bottom trap doors
to be closed.

A traln^like coupling was Installed

at each endy^permittlng reversal without turn about.

Rither axle could be locked 3 while remaining axle was
used, for steering.

�'Oalif epHlQ ( oontlnuod)-P

No. 48 ♦

Fancy stone marks'the prrave of JSvelyn Myers, who

died Just before her third birthday.

No. 49.

The corner of Pulton and Washington greets in

Columbia, California,

Hydraulicked area begins

just beyond street end.

No. 50

The Eagle Cottage, /he Gazette ^fice, and the
Fallon Hotel and Theat^^jl^ line the west side of

Washington Street.

No. 51

Two rock vaults occupy rear portion of the
Wells-^^Cirgo Depot and Stage Station.

No. 52 •

View to the north along Main Street, with Wells
Fargo Building at left, Douvlass Saloon in the
background.

No. 53

Originally built for the King of Hawaii, fire
wagon was found unclaimed in a San Francisco

warehouse.

Named

Papeete,it became Columbia’s

pride and joy in 1859.

�■gcillf orni "I (Chiiil. 1 huliJ )

Mo, 5^*

Interior of drua^store on the north side of

Oolumhia’s State Street.

Mo. 55 •

The narrow 'brldae over San Antonio Greek at
Fourth Grossing

and hoof.

now caters to travelers on foot

Old liverv is in backaround^^*

to

the riaht, oriainal staae station is nearlyhidden in heavy arowth.

No. 56

Shade at hiah noon in Fourth Grossina.

No. 57

Liverv at Fourth Grossing

No. 58-

use only if needed for

George Hotel, built in 186?

graces the

lower end of Volcano’s i4ain Street,

No. 59 •

Looking north along shaded I4ain Street toward the
old Ghinese store.

No. 60 •

Note the broad rock walk.

The first two occupants of Volcano's jail were

its builders.

Hasp was well removed from door

crack to prevent easy picking

�■0*1 iPuiIlia (eoublnuBd

No. 61.

Old hydraulic ffun, or raammoth, stands at the main

intersection In Volcano.

Water entered at right,

exited at high speed from nozzle at left.

Wooden

box held rock counterweights.

No. 62*

Old Abe, the cannon that won the war in Volcano.

No. 6x.

The longest single-span wooden bridge in the world
spans the South Pork of the Yuba River,miles

southwest of French Corral.

No.

.

Built by David Isaac Johnwoodf in 1862, the alls
wood bridge has an unsupported free span of 230

feet.

No. 65 •

Covered bridge south of Camptonville, built in

I860, is still in use.

No. 66

only if needed fop?

Piton 0. Smith stands in front of the school he

once attended? and later worked in as custodian.
Gazebo at right is built

community well.

French Corral’s

�No. 67.

Office of the first lons^sdistance telephone line
I
the Mother Lode. Built in 1853, line connected

the headquarters of the Milton Mining and Water

Gompanv in French Corral /^wlth French Lake,
miles away.

No. 68

Wells-^argo Office in French Corral is shut tight
with flr'e^roof metal doors. ^Tu^ only if needa^

No. 69*

Moonlight over the old schoolhouse of French Corral
Bell was stolen by vandals^ ^/^ter recovered.

�gong’"

*No. 77.

u Jiiitslnuoal

The Turkey General Store (later to be named
Gleator) as It appeared In 192^?'

Wo. 78 *

One of the dozen or so residences that reiiain
stand inp- in Heat or

. No. 13 •

Hock school^Jiouse built with Works Progress
Administration (WPA) funds in the thirties^

• No. 80 •

General store in Grown King has been in business
for almost 100 years.

. No. 81 •

Triangular shape of Grown King was dictated by the
railroad’s turiT^round facility.

Saloon is at

center, general store is to the left.

' No. 82 .

Jet streams overhead contrast with one of the oldest

buildings in town.

No. 83 •

The 1900 style of architecture common to mining

towns is apparent even in this dog*7iouse in Grown
King.

— /1 -

�ArlBowa
• No. 8^ •

Saloon, moved in from a neighboring town, once

offered food, drink, and entertainment to the
miners of Grown Klnsr.

Outside stairway gave

access to eight "going” rooms on second floor.

. No. 85 *

Old mill ruins and boarding houses reflect the
light of a full moon.

* No. 86 •

Hemalns of Oro Belle are almost hidden by the lush
growth.

*

No. 87 .

Mine above town is the Rapid Transit.

Fancy structure was probably company office and
bank combination.

Tilting wall at right allows

little room to pass.

*

No. 88 •

Vacant Interior of this structure makes speculation
concerning its function rather difficult, but cup«la

implies use as cook shack, assay office.or smithy.
r

» No. 89 •

Stick by stick, the two saloons of Oro Belle were

hauled up the mountain to Grown King.

. No. 90'^

Jerome cline's tenaciously to the eastern slope of
Gleopatra Hill.

�' No. 91&lt;

Built by the pastor and parishioners .^church

was constructed largely of old powder boxes,
then covered with stucco.

. No. 92 '

Wide wheels of heavvarduty wagon frame the powder­
house church of Jerome.

Large buildings above

are the abandoned grade school and hospital.

Little Daisy Hotel as seen from the Daisy Mine.

• No. 93 ‘

Hotel was home to single miners in the area.

' No. 9^ •

Intent of sign on old home is not clear.

Either

humans should beware of vermin, or vermin should

beware of the danger of a sudden slip downhill.

* No. 95

.

Larve stage station. store, and residence are.only

A

A

remains of Stanton,\site of frequent foul play.

. No. 96 .

Powder house just east of Stanton once had stout
metal door.

•No. 97

Short wooden door poses a mystery.

Adjacent to powder house. giant ^guaro ^actus
overlooks an area noted for rattlers.

�AiP'jfgown (13nnMnuefr)*
. No. 98

• Two buildings of mixed construction probably
housed goldiwashlng equipment.

. No. 99‘

Weaver’s tiny post office, built in 1899. shows

wide variation In the size of rocks used In its

construction.
'No. 100.

Burned*, out residence at east edge of Weaver

overlooks slopes of Rich Hill, known for its

numerous sold nuygets.

'No. 101*

Mill ruins mark the site of the old Octave Mine,
the only mine in the area to successfully tap an

underground gold vein.
of rock

, No. 102

Diamonds-shaped

water reservoir, bullty^in 1897

and still Intact, is one of Octave’s more durable
remnants.

' No. 103.

Gold was melted and poured into Ingots at the bullion
house across the road from the Octave Mine and Mill.

, No. 104 .

Some of Octave’s rock foundation, still solidly in

place, waye; laid up without mortar

-/4 -

�Ariaowa -

nxipd

.No. 105'

0.*'^Garlson checks drive mechanism on ball
mill of his own unique desicrn.

. No. 106-

Lower Goldroad is covered with roofless remains
of rook walls, stores, and residences.

. No. 10? ‘

Twos-story adobe hotel, now in shambles, once stood
proudly at the center of Goldroad.

•No. 108*

Gold ^^ad was burned down to save at taxes.

Wooden

roofs burned, but door and window casements somehow

survived.

. No. 109*

Grout:and1 rock staircase leads nowhere.

» No. 110.

Desert flora has its own distinctive beauty.

, No. 111.

Empty remains

'he Lee Lumber Company and/^e

Oatman Picture Show bracket the north entrance to

Oatman, Arizona.

Larye quartz outcrop thrustiny

above horizon is named 'fThe Elephant’s Tooth

‘ No. 112 •

Front of Oatman's Lee Lumber Company viewed from
covered walk of deserted picture show buildlny.

�Art. H o iiQ) (e 0 n 11 iiu agl) -y
‘ xVo. 113-

South end of Oatman’s nearly deserted Main
Street.

Bulldiny at right was originallv a

drugstore and soda shop.

Memorial in the center

of intersection is to Anna Sder, beloved citizen

known for grubstaking most of the prospectors in

the area.

Although she died penniless, she once

had sizable income from town property which in--*
eluded most of Oatman’s red-light district.

Mo. 114.

Mow ^4ie Glory Hole,'*oat man* s old drugstore was

recently "gussied up" for a role in the movie

How^Mig West Was Won.

Mo. 115 •

Lower terminal of aerial tramway ends at head-^
quarters of the Tom Heed Mine at east edge of

Oatman.

No. 116 .

Oil barrel rode the tramway continuously.

Small

cog^^eel below right wheel drove pump that lifted

oil from the drum to the cable.

Mo. 117 • Wild burros make daily forays along Oatman’s Main
Street.

Favorite snacks Include popcorn and dog

food.

-

�jfeei&amp;ovxA ' (

,Z

xNo. 118

If snacks are not offered on the street, burros
will walk into stores to beg at the counter,

Grace Kloehn, proprietor of a glass shop, heads
•^Blackjack-^ off at the door.

No. 119,

Keystone i4ine stands over the remains of one of
the mills at Mineral Park.

Gerbat Mountains form

, e ■ '

the backdrop.

No. 120

Head frame of the Keystone Mine is about to
collapse of its own weight.

Massive tailings

behind are from the stillaactlve Duval Mine.

✓

No. 121

Remains of Mineral Parks second mill, built about
18?^, appear insignificant when viewed against the
gigantic Duval Mill.

No. 122*

The last structure in White Hills slowly eases its
way toward the horizontal.

No. 123

Barrel

cactus volunteers as head board in the old

cemetery of White Hills.

3ND ARIZONA PHOTO DESCRIPT

�rnoTJ DJOjaiPTiw

Mo. 124.

Adobe walls mark the site of Bullfrog’s once-

busy Main Street.

Mo. 125

Hot sun has curled the shingles on roof of shack
at the site of original Bullfrog claim.

Mo. 126

Paint has protected portions of an otherwise sand

blasted head board in Bullfrog’s cemetery.

Raised

letters read in part, "Anderson 1906."

No. 12? •

Ornate headstone in Bullfrog’s cemetery marks grave
County,

of Daniel G. Kennedy, born in Antigonish
Scotia.

‘Mo. 128’

Nova

Kennedy and Bullfrosr died the same year.

Rhyolite’s depot is the town’s most Impressive

remnant.

Galled the finest in the state, the

station served the Las Vegas and Tonopah Rail roadie.

* Mo. 129’

John S. Cooke Bank of Rhyolite

was built in I9O8,

utllizlnfl' the local white rhyolite.

Building was

partially destroyed in I9IO to save on taxes.

�Nt- u

(uuiib

Mo. 130

The Overbury gilding

as seen through the re-*

mains of the H. D. and L. D. Porter building.
Overbury building, originallyQstories high,

was equipped with a 5,000=gallon water tank on

roof.

No. 131 •

Rhyolite X^ail was 1 located in the middle of the

red-light district. Bars on windows were actually
bars.

No. 132 •

Walls of Cooke^ank building are silhouetted by

fading evening light.

No. 133

Gold Point's most recently occupied business
district consisted of a general store and post

office.

The sign aboi^e indicates the post office

was the first to fold.

No. 134 • One of a great number of deserted mines in the

area southea|.s t of Gold Point.

No. 135

Gold Point's earlier business district held post
office, /l!he Horns liver Herald, office, and (1*3^

saloons.

Observers claimed the town "extended

almost as you watched it."

-A.!-

�)TaVADA (ooft

13

No. 137

Alternate fcrl35

One of the finer homes in the old gold town of
Lida^

Mo. 138-

Small cabin is dwarfed by massive tree at the
south edge of Lida.

Z

-Mo. 139*

Manhattan's Main Street was once a solid string
of connected buildings.

Structure at left was

adapted for use as firehouse.

.Mo. 140.

The finest homes in Manhattan once lined the street
on hill just south of town.

A few of the homes are

now used as summer retreats.

Mo. 141 &lt;

Mine shack and head frame are Just a few steps
east of Manhattan's deserted post office.

4-^ No. 142'

Parts of a small stamp mill that once processed
ore near the Mount Moriah Cemetery, a mile or
so west of Manhattan.

2 2. -

�i'leuaiga" (eowtlwuod-)'
tx 'No. 143 •

Catholic Church was moved In from deserted
Belmont.

The^,^&gt;g?^iurch fell Into disuse a second

time when /lanhattan also hecame deserted.
thoroughfare

iMo. 144 »

West side of Belmont’s main tha^i^afapa held a general
store

mai»oppti-10 (ria;ht), undertaker’s parlor, and
i4rs. Hushes’ Boardin*^^^se.

No. 145.

Hear view of build ina;s on east side of Main

Street shows Impressive rock work.

. No. 146 •

Cosmopolitan Music Hall once hosted the famous
Fav Templeton.

z

No. 14?

Buckled and leanlnv, wooden structures at south

end of Belmont will soon be reduced to foundations

and rubble.

No. 148 •

Old cowboys never die.

They Just pull their riys

off the road.

iz . No. 149 •

Nye County Courthouse, built in 186?, had numerous

chimneys serving heaters in every office.
the late«-model horse trailer in foreground.

-

-

Note

�Nevada (oontlnuo^-}
’No, 150.

Impressive ruins of the combination mill are
Just east of Belmont.

-A second^ more modern^

mill, also deserted, Is half a mile to the

south.

• No. 151.

View of Ione from the Shamrock Canyon road shows
the extent of the old town and the Influx of a
new breed of traller-towln?? prospectors.

No. 152.

Trappings of the mining trade hang all about this

small rock structure at the east end of Ione.

Bars, made of ore car rails, are too widely

spaced to serve any worthwhile purpose.

No. 153.

Old "hot head" engine

at the Shamrock Mine

half a mile southeast of Ione.

•No. 154.

Walls of this oncesfancy home at the west end of
Ione are more than two feet thick.

Fireplace In

rear end wall Is flush Inside and out.

No. 155.

Berlin, smogrfree and uncongested

�jfevad cai (o anti

adi)
thirty-stampy

•No. 156-

Old«'jQ ^tanip ^11 of Berlin stands at the
i

Interface of Ione Valley and the Shoshone

Mountains.

No. 157*

Small smelter, built In I878, proved the local

ore to be of sufficient value to warrant construe
tlon of larger smelter seen In backvround.

No. 158*

When the Illinois Mine was In operation, boiler

at rlflrht supplied steam to hoist ens^lne mounted
on concrete pad to left of head frame.

Ore was

chuted Into the shed for sorting.

No. 159*

Metal tanks were either blown up or blown down.
"Bases for the tanks can be seen at upper right.

No. 160’

Y

&gt;

Pipers Opera House, ^e Knights of Pj^thlas,

Schoenfeld's Furniture, and the Miners' Union
Hall stand In a row, one block off the main
street of Virginia Gltv.

/ No

161^

St. Mary's ^n^he Mountains, built In I877, over?'

shadows St, Paul's Splscopal Church on the down*^
side of Virginia City,

-AS' “

�KTevada (cont inued)

No. 162'

Old Fourth Ward School had^f stories and fancy
arches over the windows — but no fire escape/.

No. 163.

Once=bustling Main Street of Virginia City still

bustles, especially on weekends.

Town once

boasted 100 saloonsand a yearly consumption

of 75»000 gallons of hard liquor.

No. 164*

Delightful old piano nlayer orovides honkystonk
music in one of Virginia City's better beer Joints

No. 165 ‘

Snffine 27 of the Virginia and Truckee Railroad

stands idle on a short piece of track in Virginia

City.

' No. 166 » Much of the Vira-inla and Truckee line from Carson

City to Vir,yinia City was either high trestle or
deep rocky cut.

Note people standing on walkway

below tracks.

✓

No. 167 »

Beer wasron once hauled barrels of beer from the

brewery in background.

Many buildine-s

^^Cold Hill have been renovated by their owners
to be used as residences or summer homes.

�'Ifevada (GOXibliiLiud')'
No. 168*

The Gold Hill Hotel was built on the site of the
first recorded claim in town.

It also had the

distinction of being the first hotel in Nevada.

)

No. 169,

Massive head frame of the Yellow Jacket Mine
stands on Gold Hill’s Main Street.

Mine tapped

gold and silver from the south end of the Gomstock

Lode.

• No. 170

Freight wagon is one of many wagons sprinkled about

Gold Hill.

Residents are restoring a variety of

horse-drawn vehicles.

No. 171

Smelters at Monte Cristo began operating in 1866,

two years before the big strike at Treasure Hill,
several miles to the east.

grade local ore

Smelter processed lowss

never tasting the silver^bearing

rock of the big strike

due to Intervening raoun^^

tainous terrain.

No. 172

Local sedimentary rock laid up by experts resulted

in corners that have remained plumb for more than

180 years.

�y»w.da (oontlnuagi)
ISTo. 173

Interior of rock building In Monte Cristo
shows repeated efforts to brace roof against
collapse.

Ito. 174.

Hamilton’s business district held 101 saloons

and

stores doing general business.

The

double wall formed by adjacent buildings has
managed to survive.

Ho. 175

Arch of unknown building at north end of town
demonstrates a quality of workmanship that
proved unnecessary.

Hamilton was deserted five

years after it was incorcorated.

Ho. 176.

Storm clouds gather above Treasure Hill before
descending on the remnants of Hamilton's resi^

dentlal district.

Mo. 177.

The vault, a tall corner, and large basement are

all that is left of the Withinarton Hotel, one of
Hamilton's finest.

Mo. 178 ‘

Many of 1ites Treasure City’s buildings were several

stories high at the downhill end.
^with sparine: use of mortar.

I

Malls were laid

�■jJevaCla (caiifclnuii.d'
■fchoronghfare

No. 179’

Treasure City's main

jo^s occasionally

to miss open shafts.

Pogonlp Hld?e is in rljz:ht

background, with Pancake Hange in the distance.

No, 180'

Odd structure on mine dump above Treasure City

appears to have served as drive shaft or cable

pylon.

No. 181.

Buildings in Shermantown are nearly buried in

heavy growth.

Walls of second building can

barely be made out in left center of photo.

No. 182

A gasoline engine once powered this secondieffort
crusher mounted below small dam in center of town.
dwindled

Plow of water has yodwoo^ to a trickle, preventing

further operation.

No. 183

Chimney of Shermantown's adobe smelter was
U.
apparently never ^sed. Wooden forms still line

�rnoTJ rrzi^ jairTTgw^

No.

Tom Hay left one ghost town to move tato another.
Tom and his son are presently the sole residents
of Gardiner.

No. 185 J

of the better company houses left on Gardiner’s

Main Streetj as seen from remains of Imposing rock
structure^

No. 186 ,

Most of the 300 coke ovens In Gardiner were manned

by Italian crews.

The Italians were said to be

resistant to heat.
lighted

, No. 187 • Oven was filled with coal and charcoal, then 3^
and sealed off with bricks.

A day or so later,

coke was removed.

No. 188 - Mule drivers lined up for a picture.

Goal hauling

was considered a step above mining or coking.

No. 189 *

Foundations of coal washer fill the foreground.
Lamp house is at the rear.

No. 190 .Only a few of Dawson’s hundreds of homes are left
standing.

-So-

�■tew iaegicia-4'e'3n.tilnuQa )"^

‘Ho, 191*

Hui® barn was made of an early form of cinder

block.

Mules were brouo-ht out of the mines

once a month.

.No. 192.

Powerhouse, chimneys^and coke ovens cover a

larpre area at the east eds^e of Dawson.

'No. 193-

Italian headstone demonstrates the cosmopolitan

nature of the early citizenry In Dawson.

Grosses

in background are a small portion of the 400 graves
of mine disaster victims.

No. 19^ •

Dickman Hotel at Colfax operated under several names
and served a number of purposes.

At one time it was

a general merchandise store on the first level, with

IJooms for rent above.

No. 195.

Much planning went into the Colfax Grade School.
BuildInv also served as church.

No. 196.

Adobe ruins are found just north of the Colfax
School,

Hock water tank is in the backarround.

3/-

�New Me al o o (e
,

No. 197-

Inucd)

The only store in Gerrilios retains the fancy
letterinsr placed there by a movie company.

Owner has changed name at top of slfpi with a

minimum of effort.

.

No. 198.

Two elderly residents of Oerrillas died when the
rock hotel burned.

Remaining resldentSy^purchased

a fire engine

Wo. 199 ’
newly purchased fire ensrlne^ in CerrilloS.

* Wo. 200 • Long rows of unpainted homes

still line the streets

of Madrid .

' Wo. 201 .

Hotel on the main highway throuprh town once offered

board and bed to bachelor miners.

► Wo. 202 •

.

five-mile

,

Old 769 was kept busy making the

run to Waldo.

Train hauled coal out and water back to Madrid.

No. 203*

iMiners* Amusement Hall contained game rooms, club-rooms.
—seventy-five cents

and ball rooms.

Dues were

5 2.-

per month.

*—*

�Stew- Mqxioo (-eon-blnued)—

No. aoi)'

Gathollo Church of Madrid had unusual entrance
with storage beneath.

Structure was stucco^

covered adobe and rock.

No. 205.

Combination store and smithy at east end of
Moncrollon sports a classy false front above patch.'

work siding.

No. 206.

Old saloons, boarding houses^and stores have been
renovated to serve as theaty!^, summer residence^

and museum.

No. 207.

Panney Mine was the largest producer in the Mongollon

area.

Tallinsrs of the mine once slid down canyon,

wiping out the Maud S. Mlll^ and damming the creek

cassinar through town.
it closed

No. 208

The Pannev Mine has changed little since its

aIjisutt,

more than ^3^ years ago.

No. 209.

Miners of Mongollon showed great originality.

Head*^

boards and crosses in the cemetery were made of slate
concret^j^ even pipe and electrical conduit.

55

�Mexloo ■(-eant

» No. 210-

Althoucijh deeply carved, Inscription on old wooden
cross is difficult to make out.

No.

211,

The date is 1896.

Access to the old town of Shakespeare has been

limited since owner, Rita Hill, lost her crusade

ayainst the New Mexico Hlo^hway Department.

» No. 212 •

Several company stores occupied this 1onrock

buildlnfi? in Valedon’s business district.

No. 213

Most of the buildings in Valedon were blown up

to save

dent's

No

214 .

taxes.

Walls of store and superinten
survived the blast.

Hu^re opening leads to smaller shaft just below the

Atwood Mine at outskirts of Valedon.

No

215 ’

Henry Olay Mine stands idle in front of remains of
Valedon.

Old 85'**Mine, just above school*~house at

left, is still operating.

34 -

�Wo. 216’

Weathered old mill Is the most Impressive remnant
In Howardsvllle,

Wo. 217.

Anchor cable counteracted toppling effect of aerial

tramway.

Wo. 218

Main cable of tramway reversed direction by passing

around the **^urnabout wheel.

Wo. 219

Holst bar and old cabin are backdropoed by Macomber
Hematite Lake is Just over

Peak and Dome Mountain.
the notch.

Wo. 220

Miners’ shacks at 3ureka were placed well out on the

flats to escape snow slides spawned by barren slopes.

Wo. 221*

Stout timbers would! indicate W^ot this small structure
served oris'lnally as a water tower and was « later
adapted to other use.

Sunnyside Mill remains are

in the background.

Wo. 222 . Unnamed mine hanys precariously at top of talus
slope just east of 3ureka.

- 3 r-

�golora^ n (o -nnt

¥o. 233.

Larsre board ins^ouse at north end of Eureka is
poorly located.

Sprint floods and winter snoi^

slides threaten bulldlns^ annually.

No. 224•

In spite of its precarious location, old boarding^

house shows slyns of recent renovation.

No. 225 '

Old wayon axle lies partly awash.

Animas River,

gentle In summer, can rampage during spring run off.

No. 226 .

Hills around Animas Porks are occasionally snon&amp;

covered even In midsummer.

View from porch of

fancy house ^o^^looks a similar residence, the

Animas Hlver, remains of Golumbtts Mine and Mill.

A

No. 227 •

Most pretentious house in Animas Porks was the
home of Tom Walsh, discoverer of the Gamp Bird
Lode near Ouray.

No. 228 .

Dilapidated zM^ln street of Animas Porks shows a
variety of construction and renovation.

- ^6-

�‘Wo. 229,

Houffhton Mountain, source of many snowslides,
overlooks the old mill below

t Wo. 230.

Columbus Mine.

Fresh snow adds a dappled beauty to Ior dam
across the Animas Hlver, a mile or so dowrT^
stream from the town of Animas Porks.

‘Wo. 231 •

The Bae-ley Mine complex as seen through the re
mains of the Columbus Wine^

' Wo. 232.

Several build in,vs of the Bas-ley Mine, just west

of Animas Forks

were wined out bv recent snow'

slides.

•Wo. 233.

Little los: cabin of Irwin, Colorado, is dwarfed

by tall trees.

. Wo. 234*

The Forest Queen Mine

biggest silver producer

in the Huby Hange^

Wo. 235’

Steam tractor was used to power support machinery
at the Forest Queen.

Wo. 236-

Powered by a converted World War II

cable hoist of Forest Queen is still operable

�■JoloradQ (eowtlnuttel-^
♦No. 237‘

John Hahn, retired artillery officer, Is the
present owner of the Forest Queen Mine at Irwin.

No, 238*

Town Hall at Gothic was built In 1880

and has

since been frequently braced, cropped-and
supported.

3ven the outside stairs are placed

to counteract the lean.

No. 239 *

Old pay shack In Gothic has been restored without

benefit of paint,

Twelverthousandzfoot Mt. Gothic

Is In backarround.

No. 2^0.

Mountains to the north of Gothic are amonsc
Colorado’s most beautiful.

Ascen, worlds famous

ski area. Is Just over the top of Maroon and
Pyramid ^/P^aks,

No. 241 • St. 31mo, recently declared officially abandoned

by the governor's office, has been a ghost town
for many years,

.^No. 242 ’ The St. 31 mo Fire Company and City Hall.

Small,

many-sided structure at front Is a phone booth.

- 2-

�ttoloi'ailu (bdntinueH

No. 243«

Obviously, the Miner's lixchana^51ffn on door
correctly Indicates that fishing in the area
is good.

Sun and thin atmosphere of St. Slmo's high
altitude cause boards to

No. 245.

bleach and curl rapidly

Full moon hlerhllghts the fronts of buildings alon^
thoroughfare.

St. ilmo's main Wno^fayoi.

No. 2i^6

Huins of the western portion of Turret viewed

from a rocky outcrop In center of town^

No. 247.

City Hall overlooks central portion of Turret.

No. 248 ♦

Gregory Hotel has some of Its Interior walls
papered with old /ssues of the '^Gold Selt.*^

No. 249

Henson's Mercantile and Meat Market^viewed from
porch of Gregory Hotel.

No. 250

alternate format to 249

�No. 251.

Log post office In foreground^ and Turner resly

dence behind.

Turner Mine tunnel entered the

ground a few steps from the back door.

No. 252.

Hoofs of Turret catch the early morning light.

No. 253

Trees now furnish the shade once offered by
shlncled porch at rear entrance to Calumet's
zS^apre y3^at 1 on.

No. 254 •

The stasre station reached Its full/yttfoot length

when further construction was terminated by huge

boulder.

No. 255 •

Calumet's only residential building consists off^
leaning walls and droonlng remnants of a covered

porch.

No.

Small smelter Is the most Impressive building In
Wolf, one of Colorado's least:known ghost towns.

No. 257 * Long unused, boiler In Wolf's smelter has become a
prime nesting site for local birds.

�uolorai^o (
in Wolf/?

Mo. 250-

One of the finer homes

No. 259.

Trees 2:row in the middle of some homes in Wolf.
Only faint traces of streets can be made out in

this seldomivisited cohost town.

�UTAH-PHOTO pgsoaiPTiaw--^
• No. 260*

Sprln? Canyon

^lewed from a hill north of town)

shows clinic at ria:ht, company store in center,
community showers at left.

. No. 261.

This solid rock structure, like many in Sprint

Canyon, was decapitated to render it uninhabitable/K
and therefore untaxable.

. No. 262

No. 263

Rubble-strewn stens lead nowhere.

Company store in Spring Canyon sold general

chandise, including raeat^, groceries, clothinsrif^
even gasoline.

No. 264 •

Water hydrants were boxed in to prevent freeze-up
in cold weather.

No. 265

Lone street light, lonv unlit, overlooks remains

of south end of Soring Canyon.

No. 266

Large machine shed, is located in main canyon at

j the south end of Spring Canyon.

�ti^o. 267,

Ad for Never-aip overalls fills end of building
in longsdeserted town of Peerless, a fevi miles

below the town of Spring Canyon.

. No. 268.

Seemingly rusted in position, like the Tin i4an of
The Wizard of O2, this old orane stands immobile
on the outskirts of Standardvllle, Utah.

No. 269,

Offices of the Standard Mining Comuany overlook

the remains of Standardville.

'

No.

Giant blower once sent life-giving air through the
shafts and tunnels below Standardvllle.

'No. 271

Company offices of Latuda fill the narrow space

between Main Street and bluff behind.

« No. 272

Latuda's small jail is still in working order.
Note the cast-in-place roof.

No. 273.

Old ore cars stand before the Hains Coal Company
shops.

�No. 27^

Welcome to the Mutual Store.

Please watch your

step.

No. 275 '

Gattie wander through remains of old gas station
at north end of Mutual.

No. 276/

Longsunused shop of small unnamed coal mine above
Mutual^ offers scenic view of the head of Spring
Ganyon.

No. 277 •

Tall coal tipple stands in rigid support of plat­
form matching level of tunnel penetrating hill

behind.

No. 278

Walter B. Hanks was the only Bishop to hold

services in Gaineville's LDS (Latter'E'av Saints)
!

Church.

No. 279

Giant trees date this old cabin of Gaineville.

No. 280

Olive and Andrew Hunt of Gaineville and Giles
tend ajarden in Hanksville during the summer,
reside in Green Hiver in the winter.

Note I Olive has asked that her photo be left out.
I have asked for her permission again. If not
granted, I’ll cross out her face and ask
that the following caution be usedi

�^Utah (-continued-^

No. 280
(continued)
Andrew Hunt, of Giles, husband of Olive HuntX'
of Gaineville, tends garden in Hanksville

during the summer and resides in Green Hiver in
the winter.

No. 281

Old rock residence at west end of Giles once

catered to travelers on the Galnevllle--tO’Hanks—'''^

Ville road.

No. 282

Small cabin, overhung by large trees,' is birth­
place of Andrew Hunt, early resident of Giles,

Utah.

No. 283

Rock cabin of Notom, Utah, has lately been used
as an animal shelter.

No. 284

Small collapsed house ^^Notom, Utah, shows roof

denuded of shingles.

Washer dates last occupancy

approximately 1940.

•^No. 285 *l Machine shop in center catered to repair work for
\numerous mines in the Frisco area.

�■fBunLluued)

Wo. 286 I

One of

several crreat holes in the mountain

as seen from c&lt;}moany offices in mining area

Just west of Frisco^

•Mo, 28?

Small duff out residence had fancy raised kitchen
behind front room.

. Wo. 288•

Inside of fancy duF^cut shows ceiliny and walls in
need of repair.

No. 289’

Twin skips of the Horn Silver
had rock deflectors overhead.

Wo. 290

Wafe-fee. dump overlooks flats once occupied by the
west suburb of Frisco.

Wo

291

Alternate to 292

Wo. 292

Sunset over the King David

Wo. 293 -

Hotel, mote]^ and cafe, the last business to close
in Cisco^

-4/6. -

�•Ufcali (eowt iHued)

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                    <text>PART I
S==- s
CALIFORNIA

�__ &gt;

AT?ALIPaFi'''IA Aq?A

---------------

■^'—■&lt;

-

ggaao gorpo, OALiFJRxmiL^
Mortimer Belshaw was a shrewd man.

wardly

Shrewd!

Ou^

Belshaw showed only mild interest in the sample of

silver-bearlny quartz shown around by a iiexioan prospector.
He inquired of other deposits in the area, and when told that

tralena was found nearby

He knew

he immediately laid plans.

that the lead found in yalena was necessary to subtract silver

from its ore.

controlled the lead could control

The man

the silver, and Belshaw figured to be that man.

Belshaw arrived in Gerro Gordo in 1868.

Prospectors

were swarmlna about the rounded, almost fat hills for which the

site was named.

While the prospectors sought out and claimed

the silver, Belshaw quietly sewed up most of the galena deposits.

He hastened to spread the word that he planned to build a smelter,
then promptly traded one-fifth of his imaginary smelter for one^
third of the Union Mine, the last hold-out containing highsqualitv
calena.

With a few ingots laboriously smelted from his best
ore samples, Belshaw headed for San Francisco.

Financier Abner B.

Sider looked at the ingots, believed Belshaw*s claims, and promptly
The Union Minlnsr Company was formed

offered to back the enterprise.

By ral(l*^ummer

from Owen's Lake

the partners had constructed a wagon road

up the steep slopes to Gerro Gordo.

climbed ^,800 feet in its eight serpentine miles.

spot

a tollTSite was Installed.

plan to miss a trick.

The road

At one narrow

Belshaw and partner didn't

The fee was $1.00 per wagon, two bits

-1-

�per rider.

The partners soaked everyone^ and took a double

whaok at competitors,

Belshaw was a talented engineer, designing and huild-f

ing a smelter capable of turning outtons of lead-silver
amalgam each day.

Charged with coke and coal, and making use

of a unique doubletboiler principle, it constituted a major
breakthrough in contemporary smelting.

One hundred and twenty

bars of lead-silver amalgam were poured and hauled out each day.

With rear wheels chained and skidding, and front wheel

brakes frequently applied, the elyhtsmule teams slipped and slid
down the road, traversing dozens of tight switchbacks.

The bars

were transferred to steamers at the east bank of Owens Lake,

then again loaded on wagons at the west bank and hauled to San

Francisco.
The Union Mining Company built a second smelter in
189QAand nroduction doubled. Traffic increased on the toll road
O'
&lt;—
as other mines expanded production. A new smelter at Swansea, on

the shore of Owens Lake, made lowersgrade ore a paying pronosltion

in spite of Belshaw's tollroad rates.

Belshaw tried to lure

business away from the Swansea Smelter by letting the tollroad

go bad.

This limited the loads that could be carried in the

wavons, and in effect raised the toll.

Competing mines either

raid Belshaw's high smelting fees or forked over a healthy toll.
Belshaw's competitors attempted to build a new road
in to Gerro Gordo, but efforts proved fruitless.

-2-

The canny

�Belshaw had nlaced his toll road In the only usable spot!

Some disgruntled folk established a tent town below Belshaw’s
toll*^ate and hiked cross-country a mile or so to Oerro

Gordo for supplies and entertainment.
The fifty-six teams of

mules that hauled

freight to Cerro Gordo continued to pay Belshaw’s heavy toll.

Later

an aerial tramway was built, easing the stranglehold

of the toll road.

Mo engine was required to cower the tram&gt;*

way, since its problem was one of slowing the head Iona: dowi^

Elaborate
braking mechanisms
*t
were utilized, and freight was put in the buckets on the "up"
hill run of oretladen buckets.

line when possible.

seventies.
The town prospered during the
- with the popu­

lation riding between two and three thousand.
houses were flourishinar.

Several sporting

The dance halls of Lola Travis and

Maggie Moore were busy, and the American Hotel, opened in I87I,

continued to do business in spite of spectacularly high rates.
When a younsr doctor came to town intending to open a practice.

he was confronted with drunks, fights, and even gunplay.
The doc left town

A

same eveninv.

Cerro Gordo enjoys a unique setting.

Thirty miles

away, to the northwest, 14,495:foot hiinih i4ount Everest towers

over the dry flats of Owens Lake, besting Cerro Gordo and its

adjacent peak by more than a mile.

To the east, avain thirty

miles away, is a "sink" fed Infrequently by Salt Creek and the

-3-

�Amargosa Hlver.

Better known as Death Valley, its elevation

is 282 feet BELOW sea level.

Midway between the highest and

lowest points in the continguous states, Cerro Gordo enjoys a

climate that is the best of the two extremes.

Days are warm

and dry -- nights pleasantly cool.
Barby and Jack Smith have owned the mine and town
since 19^9.

They charge a dollar to visit the place, and it's

well worth it.

Their protective presence has prevented the

slow^certain destruction suffered by other ghost towns.

They

have made few changes, except that Jack now claims the town has
running water — he runs and gets it twice a week.
Most spectacular in town

the old American Hotel,

still replete with square nallft balcony, gazebo, and hugJi
kitchen stove.

The trestle of the Union Mine curves over

the northern extreme of the business district.

A threes crib

sporting house still stands next to a string of buildings that

once served as stores, warehouses^and machine shops.
Occasional &gt;11^ bottles diggers are permitted limited
access.

The old mine dump had been used as a garbage dump,

with fresh rock tumbled over each day's refuse, creating a
o

gold mine of old bji^ttles inconveniently spread at the extreme

bottom of the huge waote dump.

Fred Kille, teacher and ghost town hunter, has
poked and dug around the area extensively.

He has located

a number of little-known settlements and mines, particularly

in the Panaraint Valley, next to and parallel to Death Valley

�His bottle collection Is outstanding.

We discussed the

hazards Involved In digging for bottles

and the additional

thrills Involved In getting to some of the area’s ghost towns.
He and his wife consider the road to Gerro Gordo

enjoyable."

"tame and

My opinion differed greatly.

The road is narrow and steep — so steep that my
eight miles an hour,
(admittedly tired) pickup could make no more than S—floor-

boarded.

It had not been an enjoyable trip up the hill.

The

sun was flat In my face on the steep grade a mile below town.
The road, was but a narrow shelf, and^as I rounded out on top,

the sun on the dusty windshield blocked all vision ahead.

I

locked the transmisslon^Jam^d on the brake, and got out to

I did, for the road doubled back

have a look.

It was well

to the right.

Dead ahead was nothing but space.

The only part

of the road I enjoyed was the parking place at the end of It.

Going down the hill the next day, I was thinking
about the chainlocked wheels on the ore wagons that used to
skid around the bends.

turn

I forgot about the blues sky hairpin

and got the same damned unwanted thrill a seond time.

MAP MOTfis

Gerro Gordo and a number of small satellite towns

and mining camps are shown on the Mew York Butte, California a

15 minute United States Geological Survey topographic map,

�SWANSEA, CALIFOaVIA
Trailing broad wakes and spouting dense clouds of

smoke, the steamers

Mollie Stevens

and

Bessie Brady

often met in the middle of Owens Lake.

Each in turn carried

wood on. the ^^smile Journey eastward

and silver-lead amalgam

Sighty-flve feet long

on the return,

and shallow of draft

to suit the meager depths of Owens (salt) Lake, the twin
steamers plied between Cartasro at the southwest bay

and

Keeler and Swansea on the northeast shore.

Swansea, named for its larger twin in Wales, was

a smelting town.

Silver ore from the Inyo Mountains near

Cerro Gordo was processed here, with the aid of the local
lead and salt deposits.

Lead ore in the form of galena came

from the Sunset, Union, Morning Star, and Cerro GordOy^nes.
Unfortunately

the salt of Owens Lake was of the carbonate

variety, unusable for smelting.

The proper chloride salt lay

miles away, over the top of the Inyo Mountains

hill north to Salt Lake,

and down^

A tramway carried salt up the ^OOs

foot climb through Daisy Canyon from Salt Lake to the mountain
pass, then down to a port at the north end of Swansea.

The huge furnaces at Swansea turned out I50 bars
of silver every
hours, each weighing a standard^^
pounds.

It is difficult to Imagine the massive operations of smelting

and freighting that took place on the shores of Owens Lake.
It's especially difficult because Owensr Lake is no more.

8

�The same lonsrtterm change in climate that created
extensive salt flats in the area
small puddle.

reduced Owens Lake to a

Dried up and crusted over, the treacherous

lake defies travel over its surface hy man or machine.
Mollie S^tevens

and the

Bessie Brady

are out there

The

buried

beneath the salt, engines rusted and steam whistles silent.
The smelter chimneys have fallen^and the houses are

almost gone ~ moved or covered with the blowing sand dunes.
Only the rock furnaces remain, along with a few buildings of
town now owned by the Penn I41nes.

Pour miles away

the once:

busy port of Keaier escapes complete desertion, thanks to

the employment demands of a small soda evaporation plant.

MAP MOTS:

Swansea, Keeler, Salt Lake, and the tramway connect/

Ing the two

can be located on the Mew York Butte, California^

15' minute United States Geological Survey topographic map.

�J

DA5WIN, GALIFOaNIA

rA
The story is classic — the party of exhausted
men were camped in the Aryus Hange of California.
was short, and. their food was R-one.

Water

Their best rifle was

found to be short one of its sights, and the chance of shoot^

Ing game seemed remote.

An Indian guide saved, the day by re^

pairing the sight with a chunk of soft/iwhite metal. The memP
v
•
bers of the party knew it was silver and assumed the Indian
knew of a considerable deposit ~ but escape from the hostile

area was deemed more important than a search for silver.

Years later. Dr. 3. Darwin French led a party into
the Argus Range to seek out the silver lode.
Ft. Tejon rancher

Dr. French, a

and habitual prospector, had been in the

area before^ and was likely a member of the starving party
that had passed through earlier.
whether
It is not clear
the Indian’s "Gunsight Lode" was

ever found, but good signs were evident, and a number of claims
were staked.

'Darwin

The town that sprang up was officially named

in i860, long after Dr. B. Darwin French had left

to prospect elsewhere.

The Darwin Hills, east of town, eventually yielded
S5 million
more than 3 iai^^an-dallars worth of silver. Three smelters
operated from 1875 to 1880.

The town declined, due to de­
eighties
pleted ore bodies, in the late
and was reduced to

one operation by 1913.

8-

�The business district is presently deserted.

The

pumps at the old gas station are broken -- even the glass
disc at the top is fractured, making it difficult to read
the label, "Green Streak Gasoline.”
At the old school building

a crude plywood sign

leans on the front, pathetically offering an historic note.

It^ confusing message Indicates it was built in I876

but

not used until I9OO, then abandoned in 1917.

To the north of Darwin's business district
extensive remains of a large company town.

are the

The company town

has twice as many homes as Darwin, plus a school and hospital.

The huge complex has been closed for

years.

Row upon row

of Identical bachelor's cubicles stand unoccupied, with doors

open and windows broken.

The wind blows clouds of yellow mill

tailings over town, heaping obscurity on top of desertion.

MAP NOTEi

The Darwin, California,15 minute United States
z
Geological Survey topograph map shows Darwin and the deserted

company town.

�HART, GALIFOHNIA^

It Is the llttletknown site that attracts the
The desert west of Weedies,

dills^ent ,&lt;yhost town hunter.

California, Is full of old caTius and deserted towns

an

Ideal area to explore.

Darwin Fetters of Wlpton, California, has poked

about the ree-lon extensively.

He has relied heavily on

the available topographic maps

but Is quick to state that

he has visited a number of deserted settlements that are

not shown on any of the existing topographic maps.

I asked

Mr. Fetters about the old towns of Vanderbilt, Hart, Barnwell,
Ivanpah Sprlnars, Juan, and Crescent,

He had been to all of

the sites and recommended Hart and Vanderbilt.

In ad.dltlon

he suggested a visit to a llttleeknown mlnlnor camp called
Sasramore

and a mysterious place he called Mescal City.
Thirty-nine miles east of Baker, California, Hls-hway

15-91 makes a broad bend to the north.
blacktop road heads east

south.

At this spot

a lesser

and In four miles branches to the

In three more miles It angles slightly, then heads

In a precisely straight line for the deserted railroad town

of Ivanpah.

About four miles past Ivanpah

the tar becomes

gravel, and the Dakar Minerals Development sign can be seen

-10-

�on the left side of the road, near the site of the old town
of Vanderbilt.

I was disappointed to learn that the last building

in Vanderbilt, an old saloon, had recently collapsed and been
cleared away.

The lone resident of Vanderbilt, Robert D'Anella,

furnished some interesting information about most of the old
towns in the area. Including a special note on ‘*^scal Clty,'****^

which he explained had recently been reclaimed.

D'Anella

sue’crested

it would be best if I staved away from that

old camp.

"They sometimes shoot at strangers up there —

trying to protect a contestfAclalm. "

With a grin he added,

'"course they just shoot to scare you, but then they don't

shoot too awful straight either."
I decided to look into the Mescal City situation
on my way out of the area

and to concentrate in the meantime

on Hart, Barnwell and Sagamore Gamp.
Pour miles south of Vanderbilt

the water tower at

the site of Barnwell is visible on the left.
a gravel road exits to the east.

At this point

In nine miles

the road

ends at the foot of Castle MountainyJyvi smack in the middle
of the old town of Hart, California.
The flats adjacent to the /Mountains are strewn

with old boards, barrel hoops, wagon wheel rims, broken
bottles, and rusted tin cans of the early 190Q^.

-11-

The

�chimney of the old Norton residence looms at the northwest

edore of the townsite.

Toward the slopes are remains of a

seconds effort mining operation involving a white clay or

some clay^ike compound of sodium or potassium.

The mineral

deposits still on the site are brilliant whiteand*under a
noon sun, irritating to the unprotected eye.

To the south are the remains of several old gold

mines. One of the shafts is said to extend 835 feet down.
I dropped a stone, and afterj^l^seconds I could still hear
it faintly clattering.

To the east is what appears at first

glance to be an oil well.

Noting the height of the storage

tank, it becomes obvious that it was at one time the town's

water supply.

Robert D'Anella of Vanderbilt told me later

that the wooden walking beam and accessory equipment were
carted in from San Francisco on a set of ^^foot wheels.

A

small engine once turned an eccentric operating the walking
beam so as to piston water up from the underground pool

hundreds of feet below.
Gold was discovered in the ledges along the slopes
of the mountain in December of 190?.

The ore was rich, and

promoters and prospectors invaded the territory.

Within a

month, 300 people were camped on the site, and a newspaper,

JShe Hart Enterprise, was selling copies of its first edition.
In April

a hotel was constructed, and residents of the town

were rapidly replacing tent canvas with more substantial

material.

A post office was finished in May.

In December

�the bubble burst.
year.

The town had flourished for exactly one

When the mines shut down

continue the town's existence.

there was little excuse to
Hart, it seemed, had always

been a long way from anywhere, and^wlthout the mines, the

distance increased.

The post office held out until 1915.

Since that time only sporadic mining has been conducted.

Most

of the effort was aimed at extracting pockets of clay.

The remains of the town are sparse.

Rarely can

one remnant be spotted from the site of another.

The cemetery

is located somewhere in the middle of the remains, but in two
hours of searchins: I was unable to find it.

was a small cemetery

Most likely it

after all, how many people could have

died in a town that itself died one year after it was born?

MAP MOTSj

The Ivanpah and the Crescent Peak, California^

15 minute United States Geological Survey topographic maps

are both necessary for a proper exploration of the area.

�SARW3LL, CALIFORNIA

Barnwell now consists of two buildings
mill, a water tower, and extensive foundations.

a wind^
That’s

quite a come^'d^wn for a town that once had a population

measured in the thousands.

Walking over the site, it is

hard to believe such a thriving community could have eXfA

Isted here.

Little reliable information is available

concerning the town.

However, according to Robert D’Anella,

owner of a number of claims in the vicinity, Barnwell was
once the largest town in the recrion and served as the trade

center for the entire raining district.

Its three slaughter

houses furnished meat for the dozens of mine camps in the
area.
Originally a stage station, the town boomed when

the Atchison, Topeka and Sante Pe Railroad built its line

on the old wagon route.

The stage station grew from two

rooms to a respectable hotel.

Later

the California and

Eastern Railroad passed through Vanderbilt

and apparently

made connection with the Sante Fe within the town’s limits.

From Barnwell

another spur headed northeast to the mining

camp of Juan.

The March 31» 189^ issue of &gt;rfie Mining and

Scientific Press stated, "The Nevada Southern Railroad is

in good order, and regular trips are made to Manvel, four
miles from Vanderbilt."

No mention is made of Barnwell.

Since Barnwell is exactly
V

miles from Vanderbilt,

and no other town site can be found on the map that fits the

�description, one must assume that Manvel was another name given

the town of Barnwell,
There Is considerable confusion in the early literaT^

ture of the Vanderbilt Mining District.

Promoters often exZ^

aggerated their holdings while carefully avoiding mention of

competing enterprises, and occasionally small communities were
misrepresented as bustling cities.

Some of the claims made

about Barnwell are probably examples of that practice.
Barnwell was, however, a major Junction.

At least

three, and perhaps four, rail lines met there, and wagon roads
emlnated from town in three directions.

It was truly the

"Hub of the Vanderbilt Mining District."

Barnwell held that title until the turn of the
century, when mines in the area began to fall.

The shortahaul

railroads shut down — only the Santa Pe remained in operation.
Homes were moved from town, and fire destroyed much of the

business district.
The stage station, the oldest building in town, was

spared.

It served as a depot for the Santa Pe for a time.

When the Santa Pe was relocated to pass through Ivanpah, several
miles away, the old stage station was returned to its original
pursuit — catering to road traffic.

How, as in the beginning,

it stands alone, a monument to mark the site of the town of
Barnwell — once the "Hub of the Vanderbilt Mining District."

�MAP WQT5.I The site of Barnwell is shown on the Crescent
, California,
Peak^lS minute United States Geolocjical Survey toposjraphic

map.

�3AGAMQRB MINB CAMP, CALIFORWI^/^
Darwin Petters of Nlpton had sald^"take a left a
"

aA

strong mile south past Barnwell, then head to the right —
I think — then — well — you’ll know you’re on the right

road if you climb up over a saddle and dump into the middle
of a canyon."

The map showed no road to fit the description.

There was a road turning off south of Barnwell, but it led
to Live Oak Canyon,

Sasramore Canyon was shown complete with

a road along the stream bed, but there was no connection be&lt;^
tween the two roads — no way to "dump" into the middle of

the canyon.
It would be appropriate/^to give detailed instructions
hepe-afr-4^ how to locate Savamore Camp, but the network of

littleiused roads makes that nearly impossible.

It took me

several hours to run half a dozen trails to their destinations
in order to find the correct one.

On the way out

I simply

headed east, eventually locating the Barnwell road, but again I

found some unexpected dead ends.

You w^l^ know you are on the

right road when you drive through a gate^ a dry wash, and

start a climb up a winding^rocky road with a steep drop-off
into another dry wash to your right.
to let a wheel spin occasionally

The road is steep enough

and rough enough to require

dodging any unwanted meeting between boulder and differential.

This is the road that "dumps" into the canyonTTfOnce in

Sagamore Canyon

mine shacks become visible on the left, and

�an old railroad grade takes off straight ahead.

With a

^^ep you can find your way down to the dry stream bed
drive up the bed a couple of miles to "tin camp."

then

It’s

another mile up the canyon to "rock camp^ and even with a
^eep it’s best to cover this section on foot.

TIP ^mp is the result of Sagamore’s only major

rework.

Sight or ten men were employed mining the tungsten^

overlooked in the original extraction of silver.

The largest

of the several corrugated sheds is still liv(?able

and occa­

sionally used.

A paper plate tacked on the wall bears the

following message:

f^Thanks for leaving this cabin in such a
k-*

.

oroddam mess. O.K. to use for shelter.
Thanks for stealing the stove ” you can
buy an antique exactly like it for 118
in town,"
The location of the camp, smack in the bottom of

the canyon, is a tribute to the dry climate.

In any valley

but this one, rain pattering on a tin roof would most likely
lull one to sleep.

In Sagamore Canyon

it is reason to start

packing.

On up the canyon, extensive rock structures line the

dry creek bed.
of mortar.

A chimney on the right stands without benefit

Above it, serpentine rockworks form the abutments

for the old railroad line that stretched several miles from

the mine to a point on the canyon rim.

I hiked to the mine

"by rail," and returned later by *drvwash road."

�The old Sagamore Mine head frame stands astraddle

feet above the canyon floor.

the shaft on a shelf about

A tunnel bores into the shelf from below, meeting the shaft

at the first level.

Nearby are the ruins of several rock:
Built prior to I890, they

walled, dirt-roofed structures.

are very likely the first homes built in the canyon.
down the canyon, via the

dry:wash road^^

numerous rock walls

feet high.

stand in line, some more than

On

Hock forms the

front and sides of the buildings, while the canyon wall makes
the rear.

Missing are the locr roofs and any indication of

a wooden second story.

Slther flood or fire, perhaps both,

wegg responsible for the destruction.
Back in Vanderbilt, D'Anella provided some additional

information.

He had read or heard somewhere that the original

camp dated as far back as 186?
or

and that the camp employed

silver

men

of lead and cooper.

smaller amounts

The community nrobably numbered more

than one hundred souls.

When the silver ran out, the mine and camp were
abandoned.

Many years later

in the old mine.

Sy then

beyond use, requiring

tungsten deposits were noted
rock camp had deteriorated

construction of the newer "tln*^

camp.

I mentioned to D’Anella that there was no sign of
a mill at Sagamore Gamp or at any of the other mines in the

vicinity.

-19-

�"Most of them were blown up — blown up on

purpose^"

explained.

"Every time Hollywood made a

Western, it seems they had to have a big explosion, and

old mills were big and real cheap.

Blew a lot of them

up myself, working for the film companies."

Just the

thought of it brought a smile to his face.

"Used to put

dynamite under the eaves and in the foundation corners.

Then set off the bottoms

and a bit later, on a mill*!?'

second delay, blow the roof — spectacular as hell J"

explained further.

He

"That's why you seldom find an intact

mill, or even one that's leaned over or collapsed.

[4ost

of them are scattered in splinters all over the countryside."

As I drove back along the road leading toward
the interstate highway, I realized

my route would take

me past *^escal Cltyf^j^he place reportedly protected by

trisrgsr-happy guards.

I got out the maps, located the turn?^

off, and proceeded full of courage, with telephoto lenses
Installed.

After traveling several miles along the winding

dirt road, my progress was blocked by a sturdy gate, stoutly

chained and padlocked, happily precluding any possibility of

a confrontation with those Intent upon protecting a contested

claim.

MAP

WOTSj

Sagamore Camp is shown southwest of Barnwell on

the Crescent Peak, Californla^lS minute United States Geolo­

gical Survey topograuhic map.

END CALIPOHNIA AREA

-20-

�1 CALIFORNIA AR.^A
CARLOCK, CALIPORNI^

The Yellow Aster Mine was rich in gold

in water.

but poor

The mine was awkwardly situated in a deep notoh

on the northeast shoulder of Government Peak,pne of the few

peaks that make up the Rand Mountains.

The highest peaks are

less than ^00 feet above the desert flats

and are unable

to steal moisture from the already dry air.

Ore from the

Yellow Aster was hauled to the nearest mlllj

the mill,

of necessity, was at the nearest water.

Garlock was such a location.

Water pumped and
e.

piped from a nearby spring was its reason for exlst/^nce
the reason for its demise.

and later

Eugene Garlock, in I896, built a stamp mill here
to replace the inadequate capacity of a steam-powered arrastra

Ore was hauled a dozen miles to be crushed, separated by water
and melted into bars.

As the mines Increased their outputs,

so the number of mills increased. With the increased demand,
X*dL.

-

and^limlted flow from the snrlngs, water became scarce.

Wells

dug in the area Improved the supply, and more mills were built
At its peak

Garlock boasted six mills in the Immediate area.

The town claimed two hotels, a grocery, two saloons,

and several structures that served multiple purposes.

Miller’s rock structure (still standing) was built in 1897
and served as stage depot, store, and bar.

�Puellnc: the steam encrines that supplied power for

the machinery at the mills proved to be a serious problem.
When wood supplies fell short, brush was forked into the

Huge quantities were required, and^as a result,
T
the surroundins- area became thorous^hly stripped of vegetation.

furnaces.

When the Yellow Aster Mine Company built

own

mill a few miles east of Carlock in Coler Gulch, part of Carlock
moved to Coler Gulch.

Later it proved more efficient to pump

the water by means of Archimed^^i« Screw

through pipes to the

site of the mine proper, six miles to the southeast.
In 1898

a spur of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa

Pe reached the mines on Rand Mountain, and most of the ore was

Most of
Johannes*^
the reraaininor residents of Carlock moved to Randsburg and
A

then shipped to Sarstow for more efficient extraction.

burg, and by 1902 only two families remained in Carlock.
In 1911 the Southern Pacific built its track^'^^rough
Carlock, and the town was given another breath of life.

salt mining was undertaken on nearby Koehn Dry Lake.

Later,

A few

families moved in and the post office was reopened, but in
1926 Carlock re-expired when the post office closed for the

last time

MAP WOTS:

Details of the area^showlne a great number of jeep

tralls^can be found on the Carlock, California^7^ minute United

States Geological topographic map.

More of the older sites are

named on the 19^3 Saltdale and Randsburg, California^lS minute

mans.

-22-

�ATOLIA, CALIFORNI4/~^
Atkins and DeGolia, two officers of the Tungsten
Mining Company, each offered a part of t^^^ name, and the
combination came out "Atolia."

Some claim that DeGolia only

jUvocT

donated the "lia" and.a third man, Pete Osdlck, furnished
A

the '% •'
The town grew around a number of tungsten mines

and reached its peak population in 191^ and 1915. Seside
dences were wit^y scattered, the flat^rolling land providing
an unusual roominess for a mining town.
C, H. (ysiim^^aiffle, of Red Mountain, just to the
north, spent most of his life in the mines of Atolia.

There

is a modern plant to the south of Atolia, and a few folk
n
live nearby. Slim draws an imaginary line ^ear the plant
and calls the numerous deserted mines, houses^and ruins to
the north

"Old Atolia."

Most of the buildings are ramshackle

and the mines long deserted^ wood bleaching in the sun, ore

cars rusting on the dumps.

Many of the old mines utilized

slanted shafts aboutdegrees off vertical, permitting
the skip to skid up and down on wooden rails.
"It’s always been the tungsten we were after," says

Slim.

lA

"In fact, we used to use chunks of the ore — scheelite

that was down at Tim O’Connor's/glaloon.
*
Just a ten^ really, but he Called it the Bucket of Blood ."

for poker chlps^y^

Slim didn’t elaborate, but high-grading must have
been a way of life.

It was a simple matter to slip some of

�the better samples In lunch pail or pocket.

It wasn’t

considered exactly les^al, but then the mine owners exoected
it and ignored the loss as lony as it was minor.

The prac*J3^

tice was an early type of frincre benefit.

The Union No. 1

Mine west of the old town was the best hole

and no doubt

offered the best opportunity to pocket an evening’s supply

of poker chips.
Outside of the usual hotel, livery, poollhall* and
I
saloon, Atolla had a picture show and a dairy. The town hit
its first boom in 1914 during World War I, and the population
reached several thousand.

Shortly after the war, Charlie

Taylor and Charlie Churchill, owners of some of the best
holdings, sensed an impending bust.

They sold out, and within

a few years the bottom fell out of the price of tuna:sten.

The

population of the town, already depleted, shrunk to a stubborn
few.
The area abounds in back roads and old ruins.

Nearby

Red Mountain, Johannesburg, and Randsburg, all old mining towns,

are well worth a visit.

A back road connecting Randsbure- and

Atolia makes a circle tour possible.

MAP NCTSi

The 1911 Randsburg, California.15 minute United

States Geological Survey topographic map shows some of the

back roads and many of the old mines.

-24-

�gjOLGAHPIi; CAMP, gALIFoa^TIA

31a‘ht miles north of Barstow on the Gamp Irwin
Highway, a graveled route called the Copper City Hoad exits
six and. a half
to the north. Sxactlv 4^^ miles along this road and Just over

a low pass, a nondescript dirt road heads to the northwest.

At

this point a multiplicity of interlacing back roads and dunes

buggy trails makes eyeball navigation a must.

Goolgardie Gamp

is exactly Qmiles northwest of the junction and in line with a

prominent, but unnamed^knob that rises 800 feet above the flats

of Goolgardie Gamp.
The remains of the old placer camn are sparse, but

the scenery is great.

The Joshua^^^ees are magnificent,

many of them growing taller and broader of trunk than the
revered specimens in the Joshua ’'Tatlonal Forest.
Space is plentiful, water is scarce.

If you wish

to pan out some sand, be sure to include extra supplies of

water.

There are several active claims in Goolgardie Gamp,

suggesting that care be taken in the choice of panning sites
lest one be guilty of accidental claim- Jumping.
Dozens of old^deserted mines are to be found in

the area, and a number of geologic features carry names that

Invite insnectlon.

There are Opal Mountain, Inscription Canyon,

Superior Lake, xlalnbow Basin, and Fossil Canyon.

of Goldstone to the northwest

The old town

has a wall or two still stand-***^^

ing, and to the southeast is the site of Bismark.
fA

JJear

Bismark is the restored "ghost town" of Calico — possibly

-25-

�worth a visit — If you like crowds and enjoy a carnival
atmosphere.

MAP WOTEi

The Opal Mountain, Lane Mountain, Barstow, and

Daygett, Californla^lS minute United States Geoloylcal
»

Survey topographic maps are all required to tour the area.

-26-

�1 CALIFOaNIA AaSA 4 L

3^,

=

'
MASONIC GALIFJR^TIA^

Traces of gold were found in the narrow, unnamed
gulch in I860.

Although rich deposits were present just

below the surface, it wasn't until 1900 that Joe Green
scratched away the overburden to bring the yellow color to

light.

The vein revealed was rich, and Joe promptly laid

out his claim.

Appropriately, he registered the find as

Jump Joe Mine.*^ Two years later

Dorsey located a richer vein nearby

-

Phillips, Bryan^and

which became known as

the '’Pittsburg Liberty.**”

By 1907 a sizable camo filled the ^ulch, separating naturally into three sections — upper, middle, and lower,

where the @;stamp Liberty Mill was sited.

Although the popu­

lation of all three added up to no more than 500, a great many

of the 500 were Masons, and it wasn’t lonsr before a hall was

built.

Soon another was constructed

and the town

named

Masonic.
In 1910, after three good years

and $600,000 in

bullion extracted, the Pittsburg Liberty Company went broke.

The body of Phillips, one of the owners, was found at the
bottom of the Liberty^aft.

Some claimed suicide, others

murder, but the records called it an accident.
A second attempt to mine the ^Ich was

between 1933 and 1938,

By that time the town had become nearly

-27-

�deserted, and the new mining did little to attract new
citizens.

Masonic has been vacant for more than twenty years.
A few shacks and a log building mark the site of Middle Masonic.

More shacks, mill ruins, and a rock;walled

is left of Lower Town.

all that

Sven the overhead tramway cables have

fallen.

Upper town holds a pitiful remnant of collapsed
*
shacks and stubborn log corners.

Mot a trace remains of the Masonic Halls, but^
according to the map, the name

Masonic

has survived.

It

is found on every geologic feature of note withinmiles of

town.

There is Masonic ©(ulch. Masonic Mountain, Masonic Spring,

and Masonic Greek’^ but there is not a single Mason left in
Masonic Town.

MAP MOTS;

The Bridgeport, California^l5 minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the three sites.

�BODia, GALIFOHinA |
History at best

Is Inexact.

Pour authorities

give four different versions of the naming of Bodie Town,
variously, the first man to find gold in the area was named

William Bodey, William S. Body, Waterman 3. Body, and Water^

man S. Bodye. There seemdd to be a tie between William and
*»*&gt;*
Waterman ^and complete confusion concerning the last name.
Town fathers decided to name the place

known to be wrong

Bodie,

a spelling

but guaranteed to at least achieve proper

pronunciation.

The man with the questionable name discovered placer

gold at the head of Cottonwood Canyon in 1859.

He took his

small poke to Monovllle and traded it for a winter’s worth
cc

of food.

He andy^friend, 3. 3. Taylor, set out for Bodie, but

a blizzard caught them on the way,

Bodie in blankets and went for help.
find his friend.

Taylor wrapped the exhausted

On return

he could not

In fact, Bodie's body was not found until

the following soring.

Weather in Bodie was not just a topic of conversation,
it was a matter of survival.

Many citizens died in the winter

of I878 when twenty:foot drifts were common and wood was in
short supply.

The 8,600tfoot altitude, although it promised

m114 summer^^euaranteed severe winters.
A

Death by man-made violence was also common ~ more

common than the church-going faction would desire

-29-

or the

�Chamber of Commerce would admit.
shot to death.

In one week

men were

Cj

The "Bodie 601" vifrilance ^roup attempted

to control the violence by adding lynching as an alternate
to murder.

The big boom came to Bodie in I878 when the
Standard Mine (formerly the Bunker Hill) hit a heavy gold
vein.

An earlier discovery of gold in a collapsed working

was eclipsed by the richness of the new find, which ran to
^^,000 per ton.

The rush was on^and the population zoomed from
several hundred to 10,000 or more.

There were @ newspapers,

and0of them were published dailyl

A 32smlle railroad was

built in 1881, connecting the forested area of Mono Lake with

the wood-poor mining town.

Quickly Bodie changed from a tent:

and: shack community to a wood; and*, brick city.

quickly, the boom subsided.

And just as

As the veins thinned, so did the

population, and by 1882 there were fewer than 500 folk rattling
about a town built for
times their number.
But in its short heyday Bodie was a genuine heller.

Stages were robbed of bullion so often that the Wells|^argo

Company called in their brest shots to ride guard on the money
runs.

Sixty-five saloon^ gin mills, and ale stoops were in

operation — all of them,.making money.

The Parole Saloon and

the Sawdust Corner sought out the ordinary customer, while the
Senate and Cabinet lured the carriage trade.

Three

breweries supplied the draft, and a handful —---------------------------------------

-30-

'

�of churches valiantly fought the flow.

It was a loosing

battle, and the cry "Goodby^God, I‘m going to Bodie'”’’
be came c o mmon.

Polite folk referred to the sinful part of toivn
as the "redslight district," but. for the customers. Maiden

Lane and Virgin Alley held more than red lights.

I^ellle

Monroe, Hosa May, "Beautiful Doll(^ and Eleanor Dumont,
otherwise called "Madam, Mustache^^ ran houses as respect/-^

able as any establishments in the state.
When a hydroelectric power plant of

sent

electricity on a ^^rmile Journey to Bodie, the lines were

laid out straight for fear the mysterious juice could not
navigate sharp corners.

It worked I

When the switch was

closed, a motor in Bodie delivered power, satisfactorily

operating the hoist of the Standard Mine.

The engineers of

the system were quickly sought out to build similar install^
whether
tions throughout the world. It is not knom
they ever ve:
tured to curve their lines.

The James S. Caln Company owned the Midnight Mine
adjacent to the Standard Mine.

In 1915 the Standard Mining

Company was found guilty of tapping the Midnight's vein.

As

settlement, the Caln Company was given title to the Standard

It was a hollow victory, for there was little gold left in

either mine.

The railroad gave up service the next year,

and only the die-hards remained in town.

�In 1962

the State of California designated Bodie

in a state of "arrested decay."
rebuilding is allowed.

The result is Tiarvelous.

Looting Is prevented.

as It was when deserted.

The town remains

There are no shops^and there Is no

carnival atmosphere.

Occasionally a wedding is held, at the

old Methodist Church.

Sven then

the spirit of Bodie is

honored, as the participants wear costumes of Bodie's *ooora
townera.

MAP MOTS:

’Jo

The Bodie, California^15.minute United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the area In detail.

-32-

�GALIPOHWIA ARaA

COLUMBIA. GALIFORNIA^^

After a visit to Bodie

it is most appropriate to

have a look at Columbia^ a living, operating, faithfully re^
stored city of the late 1800^

In 19^5 the Mate /retrislature

voted to preserve Columbia as an historic Mate Z^rk.

Careful

restoration has been carried out continuously since that time.
Here, Instead of peeking ij^the window

you can walk in the

stores, study the fixtures^ the stock, and sometimes purchase

period items from appropriately attired clerks.
Columbia,

"The Gem of the Southern MinesfjJ has had

a colohful history, and. the reporting of its history has been
*
just as colorful, with exaggerations and embellishments causing

and great variation in "fact."

a multiplicity of figures

Gold was discovered here by Mexicans in the 1840|^J^

or by Doctor Hildreth’s party in 1850.

Believing sudden riches

might be difficult for foreigners to handle, the Hildreth Party
chased off the Mexicans (some deny the Mexicans were there first)

and took over the dlggincs.

The place was called ^Hildreth’s

later, since only "men of the dominant

Diggings,

nationality were allowed, it was called American Gamp,
Within a month

5,000 (some claim up to 8,000) pros^X^

pectors were panning in the area.

suggested a name to match.
became a town.

The magnitude of the camp

Columbia was selected, and the ©amp

�To alleviate the short supply of water, extensive
flumes and reservoirs were constructed. The price of sluice
Tuolumne
water, as charged by the
County Water Company, was so
high that within a few years the miners formed their own

company

and began construction of a sixty*mile aqueduct.
3y 1852

city streets had been laid out^ and. 150

(or was it 180?) businesses were in operation.

3y I853

Columbia was the third largest city In California, with a
population of 10,000 (or 15,000).

That year a petition was

circulated asking the governor to designate Columbia as the

Xtate ;?^pitol.

The petition, with 10,000 signatures, was

stored In the bank, but Senator Goffroth, who was representing

a convicted murd.erer awaiting execution, stole the petition and
rewrote the first page to read like a pardon for his client.

The man was pardoned, and talk of a X^ate yCapitol waned.

The city grew, and in 185^ there were 30 (4o) saloons,
1 brewery, 1 (2) churches, 143 (I60) gambling joints, 17 (23)
stores, 4 (8) hotels, 7 bakeries, 4 (8) banks, and 2 (3)

theat^s.

Fire destroyed much of the business district In

1854, and it was rebuilt with brick.

partly

The miners’ aqueduct was

and Columbia’s future looked bright.
Throughout Columbia’s history

incidents transpired.
wildest.

Here again

a number of bizarre

The Barclay lijnching was perhaps the

the variations are many.

The best

second version will again be included in parenthesis.

-34-

�A fellow named Smith, well under the influence,

became annoyed with barmaid Martha Barclay’s foul language
and her demands that Smith vacate the premises.

Smith re^^

portedly pushed (slapped) barmaid Barclay just as her husband,

John, entered.

John shot Smith dead on the spot.

A friend of

Smith's proceeded to lobby against John's logeVtty 'and managed
to work up a drunken lynching committee. Once decided, even
the /f^riff couldn't stop the gang. Barclay was strung up.

using a sluice as gallows.

The drunken mob had forgotten to

tie Bai^^ay's hands, and Barclay was hanclng on"~^ the rope

for dear life.

The miners climbed up on the sluice and jerked

the rope (hung oiT^o Barclay's legs)kbut Barclay's ccrip was
***

t

They dropped him repeatedly

solid.

pr they hoisted a miner

atop the sluice to beat Barclay's fists with a pistol butt)
until he lost both his grip and his life.
Fire ravaszed the central part of town for the
second time in 1857. As a result, streets were widened
and brick buildings were equipped with fires^ and burglar**^

proof steel shutters.

The rebuilding took place in spite of

the thinning gold deposits.
The hards.rock and placer mines were subject to
X

great promotions and repeated sales.

Salting was a way of

life and was carried out in a number of devious ways.

Early

crude attempts ^ike shotgunning a load of gold into the tunnel

walB yielded gold on the surface and none beneath.

Only a

�heglnner would buy thatand many did.
Salting had been a sophisticated art In the

Columbia area since 1851.

The art may have reached Its

zenith when two knowledsreable Chinese, wise to every saltT*

Inor method, looked Into the purchase of a placer claim
owned by a couple of unprincipled

men.

The Chln^

ese were on the lookout for pipe smokers, knowing that gold

was often put In with the tobacco

and

the pipes knocked

They knew about gold-laden

out Innocently In the sluice.

sweat bands wiped out while held over the gold pan.

In

fact, they were ready to resist any distraction that might
permit the sly addition of gold

and the consequent raise

In the asking price of the claim.
The Chinese selected the spot to dig

their own shovel.

and used

The sellers were kept at a distance.

’■(Then the sluice was half filled, a rattlesnake fell off a

nearby hummock, right on to the spot where the Chinese were
digging.

Quickly one of the sellers fired his shotgun, klll&gt;-

Ing the snake

and saving the Ilves of one or more Chinamen.

After profuse thanks were given, the Chinese continued
digging, filled the slulcey.and washed It through.

A surT'

prlslnv amount of dust was found In the riffles, and the
claim sold for a fancy price.

worked again.

The old shotgun trick had

The "live" snake had been dead, but the

-36-

�gun shot was real —
gold dust I

J

the lead had been exchanged for

3ret Harte put it well when he wrotej

"The ways of a man with a maid may be strange, yet
simple and tame
To the ways of a man with a mine when buying or
selling the same."
The gold just plain ran out in the late fifties.

Mo amount of salting or promoting could save the town.

Columbia declined rapidly in i860.

Host of the population

reduction occurred that one year as thousands deserted the
town.

A number of buildings were razed and the ground beA

neath hydraullcked for gold, right down to bedrock.

The great imajorlty of the old buildings of Columbia
have survived.

5very year another building is restored to

permit full operation.

Slowly

the "Gem of the Southern Hines."

Columbia is again becoming

�MAP MOTS:

The Columbia, Californl^7^ minute United States

Geolos:ical Survey topocrraphic map shows the area in great
detail.

tail

The 15 minute map of the same area shows less de­

but more of the surrounding area.

-X-

�fourth ch0531 NG, CALIPORN^ A
Three accounts place Fourth Crossing in three

different places.

:2ven the plaque at the site mentions a

location other than the one occupied.

Apparently the original

Fourth Crossing was on the South Pork of the Calaveras River,
miles west of the present site. It was probably moved

shortly after its establishment to an easier crossing of
San Antonio Creek.

In spite of the relocation, it remained

the fourth crossing on the Stockton-Murphys Stage Road.

Grace Bonte has lived in the old stage depot, now
a sheep ranch headquarters, since 1926.

She states that the

toKjn once boasted nearly two hundred inhabitants, centered

about a hotel-saloon-stage station combination, and an expan­

sive livery.

A s-eneral store, schooly^and residences probably

made up the balance of the community.

Originally
both placer and

Fourth Crossing was a mining town,

'hard®rook .

were the best producers.

The

Later

Thorp

and

North Shaft

the town became an Important

stage and freight depot, serving the southern mines of

California’s mother lode.

The narrow, one-way bridge handled

traffic adequately until the turn of the century, by which
time the mining effort had declined.

Now the old hotel-stage station is overgrown with trees
and the bridge, lined on both sides with woven-wlre fencing, is
reserved exclusively for sheep and foot traffic.

-39-

Across

�the creek, and on the opposite side of the road, are a few
deserted buildings of the postsI9OO era.

One, an old-style

gas station, would indicate that the onecway bridge was used
for auto traffic before being replaced with a wider bridge a

short distance upstream.

I4AP MOTS I

Fourth Grossing is centrally located on the

San Andrea^ Galifornla^l5 minute United States Geological

Survey toposeraphic map.

�The cannon was loaded, primed^and aimed level
The Confederate sympa4

down the main street of Volcano.

thizers suddenly halted their march on the Union Forces.
A flanking move was tried, but the Blues quickly swunc?

the muzzle of *^ld Abe-^to bear on the Grey leader.

assault died.

The

Volcano remained a Union town.

It is well that Ajld Abewas not used, for the
"cannoneer" had overloaded the weanon, and if fire^ it would
have blown up, doiny more damage to its handlers than

to the target

MQuW hftvo infon the target

It all began when Confederate sympathizers s^^

cretly organized a branch of the "Knights of the Golden

Circle."

e

Discovery of the existence of the protsouthern

group led to the formation of the "Volcano Blues."

The

Blues, forty-one strong, were equipped with uniforms and
small arms.

An undercover agent was planted in ‘^he Knights^

and it was learned an attempt would be made to take over

the town and divert the gold to the southern cause.

To

gain the needed edge in fire power, an old ship's cannon
was purchased by the *^lues*^and hauled in secretly from
San Francisco.

The cannon was hidden in a remote shop

while a carriage was built for it.

in place of ball and grape shot.

-w-

Rounded rocks were used
It was fired only once.

�and that time for effect only — just to keep the *Knights
in line.
Volcano is one of California’s oldest mining towns.

Its boom population of 5&gt;000
time.

dwindled into a handful at one

Mow it numbers almost a hundred.

old town has been maintained.

The flavor of the

There are no neon signs or gas

stations in, or even near^the town.
7
more than 120 years old.

Many of the buildings are

Gold was found in this crater^like but non^volcanic

area in the summer of 1^48^

I’lembers of the Mew York^t

Regiment Mexican War Volunteers ^hose presence in the area

has never been satisfactorily explained)
find placer gold in the streams.

severe, and in the spring

The winter of ’45^was

two Mexicans happened upon the

diggings and found the bodies of two soldiers.

Word of the

strike spread, and soon the valley. Inevitably called
Gulch,

Soldiers’

was swarming with prospectors.

The town grew quickly, as ordinary placer techni|&gt;-

ques were replaced with larcres.scale hydraulic operations.
$90 million
2ventually,
d silage worth of gold was to be ex^
tracted.

By 1858

the town had five churches, a school,

various social clubs, three butcher shops, a theat^^, three
breweries, and a dozen times that number of saloons.
town had the first library and the first astronomical

observatory in California.

The

�After the Civil War

and in 1868

production of gold slacked,

a number of very well: insured buildings burned

to the ground.

The old Sibley Brewery, built in 1858, is

the only brewery surviving.

The jail stands unused at the
two-by-twelves
north end of town, its double-walled
13»c sandwichinv

sheets of boiler plate.

It is claimed that the two men

built it got drunk on their pay
ij.ail's first occupants.

60

and ended up as the

Across the street, the old Chinese

store is in operation as the *^radlng Post.***

Beside it,

locked securely in its tailor-made enclosure, "^Old Abe*^
points its muzzle down main street, re-enacting the day it

won the war in Volcano,

WOTS:

t

The Mokelumne Hill, California^ 15 minute United

States Geological Survey tonographlc map shows Volcano and
many other historic sites.

-43-

^2-

�PaaNCH CORRAL, CilLIFORNIA

Elton 0. Smith, born in 1901, has lived in French
Corral all his life.

His grandparents are buried in the

He attended grammar school and hip-hZ

cemetery west of town.

school in the old school-community center, remodeled from
one of

French Corral’s boomstime hotels of the 1850^.

There were 0 youngsters in his graduating class.
We stood in front of the old school enjoying the
late afternoonsun, visiting about the town as Slton knew

It.

"That screened-ln building in front of the school?
1^
feet — ’course

It goes way on down.

©

There are benches in there — screens

keep out the bugs— ’course it's leaning now.

into it with their car."

Someone ran

Elton was the janitor at the school for a time,

receiving $27.00 per year for his morning flre-building
and evening sweejT^p.

"We had a fancy bell up in that tower at one time,

he pointed to the vacant tower.
"had three hundred dollars
kA
*
worth of silver in it — before they poured, they melted
silver dollars right in it!

Someone stole it.

The bell

broke loose^and they dropped it on the roof -- knocked a

big hole in it.

Sheriff got it back.

Supposed to be locked

up in the old Well^^argo building now. "

�Concerning the boom years in French Corral, Elton

Smith related some stories passed on to him by his parents,
fifties.
"There were ^00 people here in the
Lots

of hydraulic work going on.

It was a wild place.

then went wild on Sundays.

^days

Men worked

Lots of drinking ~ some

men crawled home on their hands and knees."

Elton pivoted to

look toward the center of town.—"On the Fourth of July one

year

they dug a cannon in, set it right in the center of

town, and a man named Bradford loaded it up.

Everyone moved

He had overloaded it, and it

back, and Bradford set it off.

blew his head off — rolled(4^ feet away, the head that isl
He’s burled in the cemetery, head and all."

I was tempted

to ask if Bradford had moved in from Volcano.
The town started in 18^9/^when a French settler
built a corral to hold his mules.

When placer gold was

found in the San Juan Hidge, a town grew around the corral.

Giant hydraulic guns tore the gold out of the surrounding
hillsides.

The Haker Act of 1888, one of this country's

first environmental laws, brought hydraulic operations to
a halt.

French Corral faded rapidly.

Now less than^^

people reside in the area.

The map of Area 5 does not extend north far
enough to Include French Corral.

In lieu of a map, one

can drive west of Grass Valley, through Rough and Ready

to Casey Corner.

Two miles west of Casey Corner, the Bridg^

port road exits to the right.

About seven miles to the north

�the road crosses the South Fork of the Yuba River at the

site of the old town of Bridgeport, where an astounding
wooden covered bridge still spans the river.

French Corral

is three miles beyond the bridge to the northeast.

The present Bridgeport road was originally called
the Virginia Turnpike, a toll'^^ad servicing the northern

extreme of the mother lode.

The bridge across the Yuba was

an important part of that toll*^oad

and remains as an ex*^

ample of the excellent workmanship of the era.

Built entirely of wood, except for nails and bolts,

the bridge clears the river in one cleany^unsupportedy^.2306foot

span.

It is the longest singletspan wooden bridge in the

world, and it is a covered bridge to boot.

Built by David

Isaac Johnwood in 1862, with wood cut in his own sawmill,
the bridge served for^^ years as a toll crossing, then for
another (7^years as a public convenience.

In 1971 it was

closed to heavy traffic.

A new highway bridge was built a

short distance upstream.

Recently the massive wooden bridge

was declared a California Historical Landmark, and the Arae rij^

can Society of Civil Engineering declared it a National
Historic Civil Snsrineering landmark.

It is truly an

amazing structure,
A dozen miles to the northeast, near Camptonville,

another wooden bridge spans the lesser width of Oregon Creek.
This bridge, built in i860, has developed a mild swayback

but

�is still rated safe for 17,000tpound loads.

The -bridtre was

floated off its foundations when English Dara broke in 1883.

It was pulled back in place, wrong end to, by ox teams.
California has much to offer in the way of historic

sijrhts.

It abounds in ghost towns of all varieties.

Its

covered bridges are an unexpected bonus.

MAP MOTS,
y 15 minute

The Grass Valley and Nevada City, Californla/»^

topographic maps show the area in excellent

d e tail.

SND CALIFORNIA ARCA 5
END CALIFORNIA

y

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                    <text>PAET II
ARIZONA

�fh re^

J SILVER KING, ARIZONA C.

yf

Grace Middleton is an uncommon woman.

She is young

in heart, old in wisdom, and sassy enough to tell you that her
exact age is none of your business!

Wrinkles have locked her

face in pleasant expression, and her eyes hold an unfailing
sparkle.

She is willing to visit with an occasional tourist

but quick to turn away anyone she suspects of souvenir hunting.
She is the owner, manager*and sole resident of Silver King,
't

Grace and her husband, Gordon, came west to Silver
King in 19^9.

They were seeking solitude and the opportunity

to mine enough silver to maintain their chosen way of life,
Gordon, a mining engineer, had figured the mine dump could be

reworked.

New extraction methods would make the lowzgrade

a paying proposition.

reject ore

A small house was conV^

structed, using lumber from the old mine buildings, and
sorting of the dump ore with a bulldozer was undertaken.

Grace became adept with the dozer^and on occasion undertook
some blasting on nearby claims.

When her husband died, Grace decided to remain at

Silver King.

She may well own the distinction of having lived

in the town longer than any other resident, even though she
arrived there 75 years after the initial discovery.

Her life

7

�is rugged — and she prefers It that way.

She has no running

water, gas^or electricity. A friend stops by periodically to
and
take her to town to shop
replenish the water supply. She

That contentment shows in her face,

is content with her life.

belying an age of fourscore and more.

She possesses a great

sense of history concerning her town

and has Indeed been an

integral part of that history for the past quarter century.

In 1872
Pinal Ransre.

the army undertook to build a road through

One of the steep portions of the road became

named after the general in

known as

Stoneman's Grade,

command.

Two soldiers, enlistments expired

and happy to be

free of the road crew, headed for the town of Florence.

Near

the foot of Stoneman’s Grade they noticed a peculiar outcrop
One of them, named Sullivan, collected a few samples,

of rock.

remarking about their weight.

In an attempt to crush the samples,

he found that the rock tended to flatten rather than pulverize.

Puzzled, but with an idea of what they might have found, the

men took the sample^ with them.

In Florence, Sullivan showed

the samples to a friend, Charles Mason, and apparently left
one chunk/sWlth htgi without revealing the location of the find,
)

Sullivan went on west, and Mason quickly had the sample assayed.
It proved to be nearly pure silver chloride.
back along the soldiers' route

Mason prospected

but failed to locate the outcrop.

Three years later. Mason and four friends were packing

ore out of the Globe area

when they were attacked by Apaches,

-S'

�One of the party was killed
above Stonenian‘s Grade,

and his body burled on the pass

Owe o:^tho old roadscamp oven^ was

utilized as a grave.

After descending the grade, the mules

were put to water.

One of the animals strayed and was finally

located on a knoll that held dark, dense outcrops of ore identi^

cal to those Sullivan had showed Mason years before*

The four

men filed equal claims, and Silver King was born.
Two miles north, the Fortuna Mine opened up.

An

old Mexican wood hauler found that outcrop just under Fortuna
Peak, while cutting wood for the Silver King.

He sold it for

$100,00 " $50 in cash, $50 in liquor.

In 1881, after millions in silver had been extracted

from the original discovery, a man named Sullivan appeared at
the site.

He had been west to earn a stake so biMi* he could

come back to work his discovery.
and town were built atop his find.

To his amazement, a mine
He was graciously offered

a job in the mill.

Mason and his friends eventually sold their shares

in the mine.

The first share went for $80,000^

and third for somewhat more.

JPhe second

The fourth partner held out for

$300,000.
Between 1875 and 1888 the Silver King Mine took
$17
out -i^mlllion &lt;»o3.1arB worth of silver. Most of it was refined

at Pinal City.

The stage carrying the bars was held up several

times, the robbers escaping over the hills with the bars loaded

�on mules.

The company solved that problem by pouring the

silver out in bars too heavy to be toted by man or mule.
Silver Kiner at its peak boasted two hotels, a
combination church-school-dancehall, several saloons, and

residences for 200 families.

Now one is hard pressed to find

even the foundations of most of the buildings.

The large two-

story company headquarters still stands on a knoll overlooking

the collapsed remains of the machine shop.

Down the hill a

bit are two sinsrle-story rock buildings with plastered ln-&lt;^
side walls and tongue:andsgroovefj^ wooden ceilings. Near the
rock buildings, on a low hill, stands a small group of frame

buildings.
Grace Middleton lives in one of these sunbleached
structures near the entrance to town, a location necessary

for the protection of her property.

I happened to stop in

tu

"

Just after she^^had a run-in with some hippies
had made
s©vgi*sl1
off with
windows
frames and all'J^ from one of the old

residences on the grounds.

Her tone was distinctly cool as

she told me of the windows and the recent theft of her camera

and battery radio.
of the vandals.

She had been quite abrupt in her treatment

She stood in the shade of her doorway,

surrounded by her numerous dogs of various breed, and told

me of her troubles, slowly graduating to the history of the

town

and ending with an expression of her deep affection for

the place.

As I listened, I made friends with the dogs.

�An hour later I was proud to be considered a friend of
Grace Middleton, Queen of the Silver King.

MAP NOTEj

The Superior, Arlzona^United States Geological

Survey 15 minute topographic map shows the area as it was
in 19^8.

The 7^ minute map of the same name shows the

Silver King area as it appeared at a later date, and in
somewhat greater detail.

�SONORA. ARIZONA
The old 1910 "Ray and Vicinity" map shows a

number of satellite towns surrounding the coppertown of
Ray.

This map, revised in 191? to correct for changes in

"culturef^ shows no highways, only graveled roads.

The Ray

and Gila Valley Railroad Line is shown most prominently.

The rail line reached Ray via the Mineral Creek Valley

and

terminated in a tangle of switch yaixis and side tracks.
The mining of copper in 1917 was predominantly,

underground. A small open pit is shown between the "M and
H" and the *^^bunal "*^hafts on the southwest slope of

Humbolt Hill,

The Ray, Madeline, Pearl Handle, Hecla, Sun,

Flux, and Calumet X^iafts were all within the vicinity of town.

The Burbank, Reed, Mineral, and Amanda j3?unnels bored into the
hills a mile to the south.
The settlement called Ray^^eadquarters of the Ray
Mining Company) was established in 1881

and named after the

Ray Mine, which had earlier been given that name in honor of

its discoverer's sister, Ray.

The town proper was built in

1909 by the Hercules Copper Company.

By 1915

satellite

residential towns^spruny up around Ray, j

(^To the northwestwere Boyd Heights and Arnericantown.

To the southwest, Sonora and Barcelona occupied the gentle
slopes leading to Sonora Hill,

�Sonora was the lara-est of the frrouo of satellites^

and^accordin«7 to the map, was composed of sixty-odd square
blocks.

The town was established in 1912 by the Mexican

employees of the Hay Consolidated Copper Company

and was

named (as were a orreat many Mexican mininc- camps) after the

Mexican Xtate of Sonora, on the Arizona border.

Buildings

lined the perimeters of the blocks.
Courtyards were left in
the center^ in typical Spanish style. In the center of town,

a four-square-block area was reserved for the town hall.

Smperor Hill once separated Ray and Sonora, but
things have changed radically.

The hill is now a deep pit,

boundaries ef^h;^h havo encroach®^ uoon the sites of

all four of the surrounding towns.
have been leveled

Barcelona and Sonora

but are yet to be excavated.

The found^

tions and street patterns are still readily visible.

On

Sonora Hill, Kenn^cott Copper, the present operator of the

mine, ha^ built an overlook permitting a areneral view of the
area.

One had to stand on or climb over the fence in order

to view the remains of the old towns}^ a practice frovmed on

e

by Kenn^cott,

a

short hike around the south side of Sonora

Hill to the old water tank will provide an excellent view of

both townsites.
Just when the .town of Sonora was leveled, is

indefinite ~ at least*'the^^State Archives could provide no
record of the event.

That it is leveled is certain, and it’s

�only a matter of time before the huge maws of the lan^trippers
eat their way through the site, removing all evidence of Sonora’s
e
existj^nce.

MAP NOTSt

The Hay and Vicinity, Arlzona^l910 United States

Geological Survey topoccranhic/^^map shows all of the old towns

mentioned.

The 1964 Sonora and Teapot Mountain, Arizona^7^

minute maps show the same area, drastically changed by openx

pit mining.

�ARIZOMA ARSA 2

CL SAT OR, ARIZONA^
On the flats between Crazy Basin and Turkey Greek,

overlooked by Townsend Butte and Hercules Hill, are the rem­
nants of the once thr Ivina- town of Cleat or

Orlarlnally called Turkey, the town came Into exist
/^nce In 1902 as a sldlna on the Prescott and Eastern Railroad

The line was built southward from Mayer to the Grown King Mine
first paralleling Cedar Canyon, then climbing abruptly for^^

tortuous miles to the mines Just under 7100sfoot Wasson Peak.
At the lower end of the grade, near the point where

the tracks crossed Turkey Creek, a siding was built to provide
service for the nearby Golden Turkey Mine.

Later

the siding

also served the Golden Belt, St, John’s, Gray Goose, Silver

Cord, and Golden Pheasant &gt;Mlnes,

In 1903

the siding had

accumulated a store, saloon, and a number of residences.

That

year the settlement was granted a post office under the name

of Turkey.

L. P. Neills ran the saloon and store.

owned the town.

He literally

He wasn’t too happy being a towns owner, often

stating that he would rather run cattle on his nearby spread

than ride herd on his saloon patrons.
James Patrie Cleator, sailor turned prospector,

stopped by the saloon In 1905.

Neills and Cleator, over a

drink or two, developed a fast friendship.

Within the day

�they had formed a partnership which eventually found Cleator

running the store

and Silis the cattle.

The town grew as new mines opened.

Within a

dozen years the population reached an estimated :^00. SSe
old picture taken during this period g^»^wogp^ore than sixty

substantial frame homes, with a second^ncountable group of

residences in a poorly focused background.
In 1925 the postal department, claiming confusion

between Turkey and another similarly named post office, re
quested a name change,

James Patrie Cleator (pronounced

Cleeter) was no doubt Instrumental in choosing the new name

Soon CLEATOR replaced TURKEY on the saloon’s false front
During the late twenties and early thirties, the
mines closed down one after the other, stricken by the epidemic
schoolhouse
of the depression. During the thirties a rock
was

V/FA

built with WrA*. labor, and the original schoo

converted

to a residence.
When the railroad abandoned service in 1933, Cleator
suffered a second shrinkage.

away

Most of the homes were hauled

and the steel works of the mines scavenged for scrap,

James Cleator became the sole owner of the remains
of the town, and in 19^7 he decided to sell it ~ store, saloon
residences.and all. He promptly placed an ad in the Arizona
r
------------ Republic, The ad created a lot of interest and a sudden surge

in business

but failed to result in the sale of the town or

�any part of it,

James Cleator died In 1959. and his son

took over the town.
Today the store and a saloon remain with little
chanye.

The brands of yasollne and booze have changed.

town now has 0 or

T

residents, according to a gentleman en

joying a cold drink at the store.

He explained that the

population estimate had to remain Indefinite "cause you
don't know when someone goln' to the big city ain't coming

back."

MAP l'TOTSs

01 eat or Is shown on the Mayer, Arizona 15 s

United States Geological Survey topograohlc map

�■AHIgJMA PITJTQ DlOgAIPriJir?

.Mo. 70 •

Grace Middleton, Queen ofSilver King^
*

Mo. 71.

Collapse o^^chine ^ed at «w Silver King Mine
Is Imminent.

. No. 72 .

Company headquarters and guest house of the Silver
King Mining Company x^as one of the first resident

tlal buildings in Arizona to have electricity.

. No. 73 •

Hockcwalled and rocksroofed, this tiny house was

once home to a hard-rock miner.

•

No. 7-^ .

The remains of Sonora in the foreground will soon

become

e

part of the expanding open pit of the

Kenn^ott Mine.

&lt; No. 75*

Undated photo shows the two main residential
districts of Cleator.

Hospital is at upper

left.

. No. 76 •

The Cleator General Store as it appears todav^

�caow?^ KING, ARIZONA
"Used to be more excitin

bein’ there,"

claimed.

gettin’ there than

That’s what the olds-timer from near Mayer

His description of the road to Crown King, along

the old railroad grade. Included wild tales of driving the
route in his Model A Ford.

"Used to hang on the uphill side
the tires on the rails
off the ties,"

and keep nudgin’

so’s outside wheels wouldn’t drop

His descriptions were liberally seasoned

with strings of cuss words.

Some combinations were as In^

ventlve as they were unprintable
"When they took the rails up — that’s when it got
J,
X.
a dam^site
more hellish^"

stated then proceeded to eX'

plain about the switchbacks,
"Those old switchbacks — they was the original
switchbacks."

He zigzagged his hands."They went like

/A

'

that — no turns.

Just drove into it, stopped, threw the

switch, then backed up to the next one, stopped, threw that

switch, then pulled ahead to the next."
He saw me taking notes,

I answered that I intended to.
rather stay unanimous."

"You gonna print this?"

"Well, in that case, I’d

I told him I’d Vote for that.

eyes took on a suspicious slant.

His

He paused, shifted his

teeth, and then worked his way into another bunch of stories

�Mostly

the olds-timer talked about his prospectinc;

days down in Nevada, around Gold Point.

In the process of

getting some information about Grown King, I ended up with
so many stories about Gold Point that I determined to enter

that town on my "must visit" list.
I asked about the present condition of the road up
to Crown King.

"Tame " tame ~ wide as hell.

Why they hauled

a whole damn mill up there once, back when the road weren't
so good."

The road was a delight.

The magnificent view never

failed to calm the mild case of nerves generally encountered
on precarious paths.

Of particular note were the narrow one­

way rock cuts, unchanged from Wte railroading days.
At first sight

Crown Kino; did not appear to fit

the description of a ghost town. Too many people wandered
about, and too many cars passed by. It's only after a 001^^*^

plete tour that one can appreciate the number of old buildings
remaining and subtract the effect of the remodeling and reuse
of others.
The general store is still in business, little changed

for nearly 100 years.

Most of its trade is seasonal, and most

of the traffic consists of vacationers attempting to elude the
ooo1
Arizona heat by escaping to the
oot altitude
of the Bradshaw Mountains.

The old saloon looks exactly as an old saloon should.

This venerable structure has had a number of names over the

�door, the most recent being "Andersons’s and Van Tllborsr’s,"

Enough business remains in town to support a parts time barman,
otherwise employed as a welder. It seems strange that a
welder could make a living at his trade in this remote loca3^

tion, but dozens of smailt time mining operations are still
perking in the area. Jury-rigged equipment, assembled from
second^^nd parts, makes for frequent breakdowns and crood

business for the bartender-welder.
Gold was found in the Bradshaws in the early 1875?s.

The rush that followed, termed the "Bradshaw Excitementf^
suited in the location of a number of paying mines.
King was thought to be the finest

The Grown

but remained primarily a

promoter's dream, due to the refractory nature (refusal to
break down with heat) of the ore.

The miserable nature of the ore was noted early, and

only the best was sorted out and sent to Prescott by mule train

Later

the quality of the ore Improved, giving cause for a

railroad to be built.

As was usually the case, the railroewi

brought prosperity to Grown King, and the population zoomed.
There was no room for a roundhouse or circular turnaround.
A triangular "back around" was built, utilizing the narrow

creek beds that join at the towrCsite.

The business part of

town grew along one side of the triangle, and residences were
built along the remaining legs.
The Grown Kins: Mine closed tewn. in 1900. due to
litigation.

Gontinuing operations at the surrounding mines

�kept the town and railroad solng.

About 1910

Crown Kina: added two "used" saloons,

the town of

Oro Belle, a few miles

to the south, had lately become deserted.

Its two saloons

were dismantled and hauled by mule back over the steep, narrow

trail connecting: the two towns.

He-/assembled, the access to

hard liquor Improved, and the strict town rule agalns'^j weeks
day drlnklna: became an unenforceable blue law.

In the thirties, dumps at the Crown King Mine were
S2.5
reworked. Assay reports showed that
million In gold could
be reclaimed.

Porsrotten was the fact that this ore had been

rejected as refractory.

mill.

Half a million was Invested In a new

Fifty men were hlredAand the fading town of Crown King

took on new life.

Soon It was determined that the ore was

resistant to the mill's best efforts.

Managers were fired and

new ones hired, yet the gap between assayed expectations and

mill returns remained narrow — too narrow to allow profit.

The mill closed.

'

Some years later the post office was

discontinued.

Perhaps Crown King's most Interesting era was shortly
after Its regular train service was curtailed.

During this period

It Is reported that autos, horses, foot traffic, and even
occasional trains were using the same route.

Automobiles

frequently bounced down the ties, and passengers held their
collective breath on the trestles.

�The old duffer from Mayer had told me "you could

scare hell out of you.

look down throucrh those ties 200 feet
And after they took up the rails

betterl"

the view got a daijlslte

He gave me a cornering look, and I figured he was

about to give my leg a calculated tug,

"You know, we used to

go up to the dance there every Saturday night.

The guy drlvln*

was supposed to stay sober, but we got to celebratin’ and
didn’t keep count on him.

We come down those tracks about

dawn — ’course I wasn’t seeln’ too good, but I'd swear we
passed that train on theswitchbackI"

MAP MOTE:

Crown King and surrounding sites are shown on the

Crown King, Arlzona^l5 minute United States Geological Survey
topographic map.

Of interest

are Lukes Hoist, Oro Belle,

Fort Misery, and the Horse Thief Basin,Recreation Area.

�OaO B3LLS. ARIZONA f
Prom Grown Kin®

In a half mile

south.

mile

an excellent crravel road heads

a branch heads west, and in another

a Jeen road angles toward the south.

A sign Indicates

that Oro Belle Is^ that dlrectlon|^miles awayj'but also
warns that passenger cars should not attempt It.
It Is a fairly good Jeep road

sized pickup.

Actually

but somewhat narrow for a full-

I swallowed hard and often for two of thdse

three miles,

Oro Belle once occupied both legs of a swifcdhbaak.
Now only a few shacks and tanks can be found on the uphill

stretch.

Across the gully and down the other side of the

switchback are a number of old buildings, all of the ghostly
qualitytotally befitting a completely deserted town.

The

most outstanding Is a large rock structure " probably the

mine office and company store.

It has fancy^embossed metal trim

In both scroll and brick design.

OnS wall leans out over the

road, making It nearly Impassable.

Behind this building, and

Implying that more substantial buildings once existed. Is a
rock wall more than 150 feet long.

Built Into this wall Is a

vault, Its door missing, reportedly stolen In the past few
years.

Apparently a bank or more company buildings once

fronted the wall. To the south are several old frame buildings.
one of them
The cupola above
would Indicate It had a need to expel un&lt;
wanted heat, which would make It an assay office

a cook shack.

or possibly

�Somewhere alonsr the lower main street were located
two saloons, a few stores, a deputy sheriff’s office, and a
Justice of the peace court.

For all

law enforcement,

it would be reasonable to assume that a sporting house or

two also flourished here, although available history concerning
the town makes no mention of such establishments.
In the late iSpoTs
&gt;■

Georve P. Harrina:ton obtained

title to some claims in the area.

He shortly organized the

Oro Belle Minlnsr and Milling Company

stock.

and proceeded to sell

By 1900 the mines had proved their worth, and a mill

was built to process ore from the Oro Belle and the Gray Eagle.
The population of the town reached 200, with 100 of them miners.

Forty men worked the day shift on the Oro Belle.
Nearby, the Rapid Transit and Savoy ^nes were opera­
ting, although in &amp; less spectacular fashion.

A post office

was granted the town, and the temporary name of

Harrington

was chancred to

George Harrington proved to be

Oro Belle.

too nice a fellow, according to the company stockholders.

They objected to his usinsr company funds to grubstake prospectors.

He was fired, and a new boss
was hired.

of the penny-pinching variety

Shortly, a revolt was mounted, and the new boss
aA

was given an ultimatum — better food and better pay
work.

Elsewhere

burning of mills

or no

such miners' revolts had resulted in the
and occasionally the suspension of the boss —A

by the neck!

^66--

�The demands were granted, but^withln weeks, miners’
wases were cut back and the quality of the meals sank to a new

low.
The second revolt was more serious.

were visible.

The demands were restated.

A few ropes

The badly shaken

manager conceded.

He set off immediately to purchase fresh

meat and produce.

He never returned.

Mines in the area reached the extent of their lodes

in 1910.

The good ore was gone, and the low;grade that was

left wouldn’t pay wages, let alone milling fees.

Soon

both of Oro Belle’s saloons were dismantled

and hauled muleback to Grown King.

closed.

In 1918 the post office

The only signs of life now area few rattlers and a

number of lizards]^"the latter frequently raising the pulse of

visitors momentarily convinced they are confronted by the
former.

MAP NOTE*

The Crown King, Arizona^15 minute United States

Geological Survey topocrraphlc map shows Oro Belle and a vreat

number of old mines in the surrounding mountains.

�JEROME, ARIZONA

Compared to deserted Oro Belle, Jerome is like
Sunday on the freeway.

However, the degree of desertion

in the two towns is similar.
deserted

and Jerome

^0

Oro Belle is 100 per cent

98 per cent, having shrunk from its

1929 peak of 15,000 to its present two or three hundred

stubborn souls,

Glinfflng to the ^^rdecree slope of CleoT^'

patra Hill, with its upper end ^00 feet higher than its
'r
lower, the town comuactly occupies both sides of a number
of switchbacks.

The back side of a building may­ face one

leg of the main highway, and the front will face another
Since 1925, when a 25O:pound charge of dynamite
was touched off underground, many of the buildings have

been sliding slowly down the hill — some buildings at a
three-eighths of an inch
rate of 9^^* per month/ The Jail has slid a number of feet^
claim 300 feetj and across a highway.

Three hundred

^3
-fl*

feet is unbelievable, but so is the way people trust their

houses to stay put and not slip down the hill in the middle
of the night.

Residents are seemingly unconcerned with their

neoperpendicular life

and continue to drive their automobiles

into rooftop garages and climb down to their living rooms
More than a thousand years ago

the Tuzigoot Indians

dug into the side of the hill to glean the brightly hued green

and blue oxides of copper.

The pigment was hicrhly valued as

body ornamentation and pottery coloring.

a

The metallic content

/

�was not noted or valued,

Sven the Spaniards who visited

ths sites in the /Sixteenth Xentury failed to become in­

terested in the copper, for their Interest was gold.
Several prospectors filed claims here in I876.

M. A. Huffner and Angus (or August) McKinnon proved up on
their claims

then sold out to Territorial Governor Tritle

for $2,000.

The ^vernor sought financial help and found

it in Sugene Jerome, a cousin of Winston Churchill.

Mr. Jerome set down the stipulation that the town must bear
his name.

Previous to that time, the settlement had been

called Eureka

or Wade Hampton, for two of the earliest

claims.

The former was the Greek word for "I found it,"
name of the governor of South Carolina.
and the latter the holdy^ ?f
gffloo of CoTorr^r
the State af jSauth Capelina,—

First attempts to produce purs copper from the ore

proved disappointing, and the mines were sold to William A,
Clark, a Montana millionaire.

Under his direction

the

United Verde grew to a profitable and complex operation.

William Clark became one of the richest men in AmericaM

and a United States Senator — and he did it, please note,

in that order.
At one time the town boasted ^grocery stores,

houses of Joy,

saloons, and two churches.

The miners

maintained their usual priorities.
The population of Jerome began to decline during

the depression, but in 1935 the Phelps Dodge Corporation

�bousrht the operation foi"20 million. flollarcH

Many thought

the purchase ill-advised, but by 19^0, when the deposits
thinned, the company had netted a profit oiJ’^UO million.

The fis-ure seems substantial, but it represents only a small

4/

fraction of the sjfe billion ^&amp;llai»n worth of copper, gold.
silver^and zinc taken out of Cleopatra Hill

MAP M0T3j

Details of the town and its environs can be

pinpointed, and an alls inclusive tour laid out, with the
aid of the Clarkdale and Mingus Mountain, Arizona.15

minute topograohic maps.

It seems only fitting that a

town that sits on the steep slope that joins mountain to
plainjJ^ls also found split in half ~ part on one map, the

remainder on another.

�STANTON, ARIZONA
Pauline Weaver, In the year 1862

undertook to

guide a group of prospectors Into the hills of central Arizona.

He was a half-breed army scout temporarily off the payroll.
His ability to negotiate and communicate with the Apaches

made up for the fact that he had never been in the area before.
One evening an antelope was shotbutchered

camp set up beside a nearby creek.

and

This rather mundane series

of events had happened before, but this time one little item

would be added that would cause
and
Antelope Creek /yanother stream

stream to be named

Weaver Creek.

above camp would become famous as 'Rich Hill.'

The hill

Two thousand

miners would flood the vicinit:^and four towns would spring
into being.

party went in search.

discovery.

Their stock strayed.and some of the

The event?

As in many cases, the mules made the

When the men found the stock

they also found

several thousand dollars’ worth of gold nuggets.

The camp became permanent and was given the name
of

'Antelope, ' later to be called

the stage line passed through.
change to

Stanton

at least

murders.

Antelope Station

when

Somewhat later that name would

by means of a series of crimes, including

In the meantime

a town a few miles east, settled

mostly by Mexicans, would be named in honor of Weaver.

The

town was to degenerate quickly into an outlaw hideout.

Octave,

�beyond Weaver, would yrow to a more substantial town, with
the steadviny influence of a deep shaft bearing gold in
quartz.

Congress Junction, to the west, would grow up as

a supply station for the Rich Hill Mining District,

Charles P. Stanton arrived in Antelope Station,
having recently been thrown out of a monastery on a morals

charge.

He obtained a decent Job in spite of his record

but soon became disenchanted with his status as deputy

county recorder

and began to plot his way to success.

He envied two successful storekeepers in the
community, and by the diligent planting of rumors and countsr/^

rumors, he got Partridge and Wilson angry with each other.

Things boiled over when a hOg got into Patridge’s cabin.
,
to the cabin
Wilson was on his way oveg to apologize on behalf of his

partner, the hog’s owner.

Stanton saw his opportunity and
tell
that
quickly had a Mexican cohort run toy^Partrldge
tell hfan
Wilson was gunning for him.
Wilson dead on sight.

As a result. Partridge shot

He was tried and found guilty, part\ly

on the basis of his confession^ which Stanton helpfully wrote

out for him.

Wilson’s partner, Timmerman, took over the store.
Soon Timmerman’s body was found along the road,

Stanton

promptly moved the stage route so that it passed his own
store, and erected a larcre sign which, in essence, renamed the

town

Stanton.

�Charles
^Stanton was still not content.

He now envied

Barney ilartin, for Barney was still the staare agent,
was told by some members of the Valenzuel gang

Barney

from Weavertown

that he^better move out or he and his family would die.
Barney sold out, packed up, and headed for Phoenix, leaving

word with a good friend at Gold Water Station^"^^^ he would
stop by on the way.

When Barney failed to arrive, his friend.

He found the charred re'^&gt;^

Captain Galderwood, went in search.

The Valenzuel gang was sus*&gt;*’

mains of the wagon and family.

pected, and Stanton was thought to be their leader.

was tried for murder

but found Innocent.

that when Stanton finally died
outlaw

Stanton

It is appropriate

it was by the hand of another

He had made advances toward

and for "moral" reasons.

Proilana, a young Mexican girl

and close relative of Lucero,

leader of a second gang in Weaver.
Tom Pierson, on the way down from Crown King, reported

that he met the fleeing Lucero.

"I’ve killed Stanton and I’m

headed for the border," stated Lucero

as he rode past,

"Stick around," hollered Pierson.

"We’ll get you a

reward."
The ghost town of Stanton is about a mile and a half north and
The" I’emainij lif.Atawtnin

miles east of Congress Junction.

north and

Wo topographic maps are

available for any of the towns in the vicinity.

Three rather

large buildings mark the site of the old town, but they have

to be viewed from a distance.
"Mo" signs* Mo Trespassing

The area is surrounded with

Mo Prospecting, Mo Piling of Claims

�and^at an occupied residence a few hundred yards to the north

a sign crowded In among more "No" signs proclaims, "Beware of
the ^g. "

I would have given ten bucks for a sign reading

"Welcome to Stanton," and another five for the privilege of

planting It at the outskirts of town.

) MAP NOTBi

No United States Geological Survey topographic

maps are available for the area.

�W’SAVga, ARIZ JVA r

Established in 1862

and all washed up by 19OO,

the little town of Weaver led a short but varied life.

was named in honor of the scout
Pauline Weaver.

It

led the discovery party,

Weaver was the half-breed son of a /White

father and an Indian mother, the daughter of a tribal chief.
Weaver was a highly respected army scout who had aided General

Kearny in several Western campalcrns.

Weaker died, reportedly

from the shifting of a longsburied arrowhead, while asleep in
an Indian camp on the outskirts of Camp Lincoln in 186?.

Weaver was the biggest placer find in Arizona’s
history.

More than a million dollars’ worth of coarse gold

was separated from the gravel^ of Weaver Creek, and untold

smaller fortunes were literally picked off the vround on the
upper slopes of Rich Hill.

mlninpr peak.

In 1888 the camp had reached its

9^ old photograph shows ^^substantial wooden

buildings, a few rock and adobe structures,
washers, and

tents.

By the 189^

large gravel:

the goldtwashing

business was fading, and hell-raising was taking over.
long

Before

the town had the reputation of being an outlaw haven.

In fact, it is claimed that no lawman dared set foot in Weaver,

lest he disappear without a trace.

Several gangs of outlaws

operated out of the town in open fashion, frequently hired
by outsiders like Stanton, to do some choice dirty work.

Murders were common in town and seldom recorded.

The cemetery

�had a number of unmarked mounds,

William Segna, in I898,

had the honor of being the last murder victim in Weaver.
(A

He was a well-to-do saloon and mercantile operator — too
well-to-do.
Respectability returned temporarily in 1899 when

However, due to a

the town was granted a post office.

sudden loss in population (everyone moved two miles away

to Octave)^the post office was closed down in less than a
year.
The remains of Weaver can be found by traveling

two miles east of Stanton, then taking a road north for a
mile.

The branch road to the north leaves the main road

just short of the town of Octave.
The old Weaver post office is still standing

in pretty good shape.

The building had two rooms

customers, one for the postmaster.

one for

The rock walls are^^yU*\

thick, considerably reducing the available room inside
insuring a cool environ.

but

The rock walls appear to have been

laid up by two different workmen ~ one stout

lesser strength.

and

and one of

The rocks on the south side are huge^ and Jt-

on the north are small.

The doorway forms the demarkation.

Several other rock buildings, an adobe structure
with tin roof, two old frame mine shacks, and a concrete
vault

complete the standing remains.

The vault is at the

north end of town and seems to have been poured over a form
shaped like a narrow-gai^e railroad car, then the form

�removed from the inside.

The form wood was narrow, fluted

wainscoating, as evidenced by the fancy imprint left in
the concrete.

At the south end of town,on a hill to the east,

stands the burned hulk of a small farmhouse.
remains

Alongside the

is the charred trunk of a tree that once offered the

home a moment of noon~day shade.

-_________________________________________ /

)

-Ar /

MAP NOTSi

Mo topographic maps are available for the area.

�OCTAVE, ARIZONA
C. 0. Carlson is presently the sole resident of
Octave.

You might call him a new-fangled type of olds timer.

He used to prospect extensively.

Now he has formed a company

that plans to extract gold from the reject ore that makes up

the waste dumps of the fabulous old Octave Mine.

^G^O.*^irn3rp=!

a million in sold sits on the dump awaiting an efficient ex^

traction system.
do the Job.

In fact^he has applied for a patent on his newe

style ball mill.

unique.

And he figures he’s got Just the gadget to

It’s the drive mechanism that makes it

The rear end and transmission of a @:ton truck

wheels, tires and allis rammed up against the larsre armo'fr •
j|
■
plate Krum. The air in the tires can be adjusted to achieve
proper contact.

‘^^0.*^enjoys turning the driveshaft with

one hand^««4 pointing out the easy rotation
as a result.

the drum makes

"This mill will run 200 tons easy," he claimed.

I didn’t ask if that was per hour, day^or week, but I sure
had to agree

it was a beautiful piece of eyeball engineering.

"Of course," I pointed out, "that drum is going to be
somewhat tougher to turn when you get a few tons of ore in it."

Carlson figured, perhaps a bit optimistically, that
he could drive the loaded mill with as little as

horsepower.

There is no such thing as a pessimistic inventor.

Ore from the dump is to be treated first in a Jaw
crusher, then put through the ball mill with

'7^^

gallons of

/O/

�water a minute added.

The fine gold mixed with powdered rock

will run out the end on_to a couple of fanners (shaker tables)
finally, part of the gold will be gravlty5.separated

and

the remainder extracted by chemical means.

is well-.acquainted with the history of the

place and the exact condition of the old Octave Mine.

Where

he got his information is a mystery to me, and it differs

from the published material one can dig out of
p-brary.

In several cases I have found •*0.^0.-^to be right and

the published record in error.

For example, one writer claims

the town had a population of 3,000.

Since others state that

the entire district had only 2,000 at maximum, I*m inclined

to put stock in Carlson’s claim that the town had about 500
residents, mostly Scandinavians.
The diamond-shaped

center of town

was built-in 1897.

built about 1900.

water reservoir in the

The buildings nearby were

Now^just the rock foundations remain.

The

business district held a post office, mine headquarters,
saloon, mercantlle^and grocery. ^^^Qso^ there wa^a school and

a building that served as bank and stage station.

’*^.0.'"^

claims there were I50 men on the digging crew in the Octave
feet
Mine and that the mine was ^OOy^deep. Pumps ran continually

to keep the bo^eg gpoo feet dewatered I

"Of course the mine is flooded now ~ there's 20
miles of tunnels under that water, and I don’t guess it will

�ever be pumped,” said Carlson.

"See that hill over there?

That's Rich Hill ~ richest hill in the world.

Why, after

a rain

People

you can walk up there and find nuggets.

still search around that hill ~ find stuff too, especially
just over the crest."
now.

Carlson was warming up to the subject

"The geologists never did figure out how all those

nuggets got to be found on top of the hill ~ supposed to
"^pointed to the south.

find 'em in the streams below.
"See that peak?

down there.

That's Vulture Peak.

Had a good ore body

We're on a line between that mine and Rich Hill.

That's why they found so much srold here."
I asked how the snakes were.

Carlson answered to

the effect that they were real healthy.-^ "In fact, the damn
things are so fat they're pink I

They must be the most beaut i^

ful rattlers in the world.—and they don't buzz

must have

killed off all the buzzing kind and grew a crop that don't

buzz I"

is inclined to be outspoken on matters politi-^

cal.

"It's that L»208 ~ you know. Law No, 208

that Roosevelt

put through ~ that's what killed this mine ~ and those old tin

heads in Congress soaked it all in.

never should have stopped

everybody from minin' gold — just 'cause they claimed it wasn't
strategic."

'^C.V).doesn't hold with core drilling either —
"Why you can drill those little bitty holes all month and still

�miss the vein.

It’s crazy!

May as well take your money

to Vegas,"
There are some facts concerning the town that *^.^0,'**’
overlooked.

He probably knows them^but just had more important

things to say.

Claimed as a placer in 1864, nothing much happened
until the 1890^/^when someone saw the deeps mine potential.

Eight men got together, bought the claim, and named the place
Octave^

appropriate to the eight-way split.

No Information

is available as to how long the original eight held on to
the claim. It would have meant a fortune for each, since
somewhere between|^8 and|^15 million in gold was eventually ex^^

tracted from the Octave.
The town proper was built between I896 and I9OI,

The post office moved in from Weaver in I9OO,

The mines

were shut down in 1942, due to L-208, and in 1944 all the
buildings were razed to save on taxes.

Visible today are

the huge yellow tailings of the mill, some foundations, some
walls of the bullion room, the reservoir, and extensive multi(**

leveled rock foundations.

Across the knoll, under a modern

power line, is a totally forsrotten cemetery.

I had just visited the cemetery and was swinging
back through the site of Octave to say goodbye to

when

I was hailed down by a nondescript old character in a

battered pickup,

"WheresW Rich Hill?" he asked.

got to be around here somewhere."

"It’s

�Like an old hand and longrtime resident

I waved

toward the hill and hollered,"Your best bet for nuggets
is just over the crest

MAP NOTE*
the area.

too bad it ain’t rained lately."

No topographic maps are presently available for

�Iahizowa arsa 3 L

J
GOLDROAP, ARIZONA

The road from Kinsman slants southwest with little

ohanc:e in direction or elevation.
accommodate a dry wash.

Occasionally it dips to

The native knows enough to slow

down and check the wash for water.

The tourist might plow

into two feet of water at @ miles per hour, but he’ll only
do it once.

The resulting baptism quickly makes one a native.

After

to meander
Pass,

miles

the road angles west and proceeds

another

miles up the slope to Sitgreaves

^50 feet above sea level.

Its famed "100: mile view"

is now marrf^ at mld^^stance by the smoke of a huge electrl&gt;
cal generating plant located on the Colorado River,

As the road writhes its way down the west slope,

signs of the abandoned town of Goldroad appear.
there an old rock foundation.

frame.

Here a tunnel,

Beyond these, a shaft and gallows

The switchbacks become more frequent, and at one point,

where the grade is particularly steep, most of deserted Goldroad
is visible straight ahead and sharply below.

Most of the remains are rock or adobe walls.

Assured

that the town would never come to life again, the owners decided
in 19^9 to save the tax on surface improvements

tlonally ^irned the town to the ground.

and inten*"'^^

The Mexican part of

�town, on the treeless flat to the west, survived in part,
due to its adobe construction.
Traces of gold were found here in 1863,

The

outcrops were low grade, and the prospectors moved on.
The gold was there

but remained hidden for another

years.

Jose Jeres (Jenerez, according to the February 1916

Los Angeles Financial Mews) was grubstaked by Henry Lovin of
Kingman

to the extent of $1,300.

Jerez, or Jenerez, headed

into the thoroughly workedsover region near Sitgreaves Pass,
by the Old Fort Mohave Military Road.

The stories vary ~

but Jose was either tracking a lost burro or tying one up

when he stumbled across a knobby outcrop.

He chipped some

samples, then quickly laid out his claimy^and headed for
Kingman

Lovin wouldn’t believe Jerez when he learned the
'•strike'* was in an area already tramped over by a thousand
prospectors, and it wasn’t until Jerez started asking for

another stake that Lovin decided to go look,

Jerez was right,

and excitedly the two of them proceeded to dig the required
hole to prove up the claim.

The vein held steady and strong.

Word got out, and the rush was on.
gone over thoroughly a second time.

The ground was

Two other paying shafts

were developed.

Meanwhile, Lovin and Jerez sold out for

$25,000 each.

Lovin also got the freighting and mercantile

�concessions, which paid handsomely,

Jerez drank his share

and within a few years departed this world by swallowing rat
poison.

In 1901 there were ^00 people In town.

In 1902

the boom was well under way, and a post office was opened

under the name of Acme,

In I906 the town reached Its peak.

That year the post office was redesignated as Goldroad,

It

remained so until 1941, when Law 208 closed down the mine, the

town^and the post office.

Around the bend, and two miles on

down the highway. Is the delightful old town of Oatman.

Al^^

though not as dead as some ghost town buffs desire, one can

couple It with the more: than^dead remnant of Goldroad and
come up with an enjoyable tour.

&lt; #
MAP NOTE:

The town. Important mines, and cemetery

shown on the Oatman and Mt. Nutt

are

minute United States

Geological Survey topographic maps.

Iti
plfc

i/ie !

�OATMAM, ARIZONA
The geology of the area would excite even the most
dejected prospector.

the surface.

Igneous intrusions stand boldly above

Quartz outcrops abound/^ and where there is

quartz, there is the likelihood of valuable mineralization.

Iff

Quartz, one of the last minerals to solidify upon cooling,
often carries rare metals in its cracks and fissures.

To

the east of Oatman, the nearly whlje Elephant's Tooth and
black Boundary Cone thrust their way above the horizon, sure

signs of mineral separation

and reliable indicators of

valuable deposits nearby.
The Vivian Mine was located in 1902 by Ben Paddock.
A mine camp grew up around it^and in 1904 the post office of

Vivian was established.

The population reached 150^and the

//2^

town boasted two banks, two stores, and a chamber of commerce.
Discovery of rich gold ore in the Tom Reed Mine in
1908 brought the first boom.

The town grew

and became so

respectable that a move was made to select a new name.

They

decided on Oatman, in honor of a family of pioneers who^
in 1851• The entire family was killed,
had been attacked by Indians^ end %ho fa«H.y-igilloAy

except for two girls and a boy. The girls were taken captive
and the boy left for dead at the site of the massacre.

A

rescue party found the boy

and^after years of effort^managed

to free one of the girls.

The other sister died

captivity.

�George W. Long had a theory about the veins around
Oatman.

He studied the shafts and tunnels in existence and

determined that a healthy vein of gold ran north and south

about 380 feet below ground.

He formed the United Eastern

Mining Company, which in 1913 bought up a number of claims
that included the theoretical streak of gold.

He was right.

The vein was there — and at the depth predicted.

With the

Eastern and the Tom Reed both producing well (the Tom Heed
averaged $70,000 in gold per month) the town boomed, and the

area's population neared the 10,000 mark.

Later

a figure

of 15,000 was claimed, but^was probably an exaggeration.

With the best ore removed, the mines went into slow
decline during the thirties.

The town began to shrink.

Its

life was sustained by its location on Route 66, Even the
*6^es*’*'p^sing through to California did their share to

contribute to the survival of Oatman,
But Law 208, passed by "those tin heads in Congress "

to quote *^.0, Carlson of Octave, Arlzona^y^brought the rftmaipjng

gold mining to a halt.
hundred or so

The number of residents dropped to one

and in I968 fell to half that, or less than^^®®’^^

of its "honest" peak population.

There are a few more folk living in Oatman now.

In

fact it may be on the comeback as a winter residence for reA

tired trailerites^following the sun south for the winter

fleeing the Arizona heat each summer.

but

�Ill
Ths old Tom Heed Mine and Mill, long idle, has
enough property remaining to warrant a caretaker.

A few

mines in the area are still operating:, either on a one: man
basis or under strict secrecy.

In one case the secrecy is

maintained by a rif let carrying .guard.

Wild burros make it a habit to visit town each day.
Somewhere between © and
of them wander in for a tour of
the stores, poking their heads S?%oors and walking in if
not met at the threshold.

They like popcorn and dog food,

and the tourists love to provide it^even at the risk of nipped

fingers.

The burros are b+wj. descendants of the pack animals
They are not

turned loose by retired prospectors.

herd supremacy sometimes occur

°
on^main street.

Storekeepers close their doorsy.while visitors
7^

take cover and grab for their Instamatics.

Occasionally samoles of high-grade ore appear in the
glass showcases of the grocery store. I was offered a chunk
about the size of a marshmallow. It was perlfa^s®
gold.

A
You could easily scratch the yellow portion with a

knife blade to check that it was not pyrite.

The sample

probably had an eighth of an ounce of gold in it.

was tlO.

Too high, I figured, and passed it up.

The price

Later, half-jA

way to Kingman, it dawned on me that^at the present $180 an

ounce, that sample was probably worth twice the asking price.

//^

�J

MAP NOTE*

The Oatman, Arizona.7| minute United States

/ Geological Survey topographic map shows Oatman and part
of Gold road.

�MIM3HAL PARK, ARIZONA/
You can see the plume of dust from

miles away,

SM»^ the closer you approach, the more it seems to rise from

the exact site of the s^host town of Mineral Park,

A mile

away you can hear the hum and clatter of heavy machinery.
On a rise to the south of the suspiciously smoothy^broady^gravel
road is an old roofless adobe building, doubtless a remnant of

Mineral Park,
Just around the bend

the noise becomes suddenly

louder, and the field of view is filled with signs of "progress
The Duval Mine and Mill is operating at a level that would have
been beyond the imagination of

residents of Mineral Park

ninety years ago.
The site is a study in contrasts.

On the left side

of the road are the pitiful wrecks of three or four buildings,
some mill foundations, one head frame about to collapse, and
an old wooden separation tank.

From these relics you can look

across to the monstrous mine dump of the Duval, matched only in
size by the massive mill below.

Periodically the ugly sound^

of rocks falling causes one to look quickly about.

The trucks

are dumping rock over the dump a mile away, and boulders the
size of barrels roll hundreds of feet down the man-made talus
slope,

A brief hlstory,to match the meager extent of the
Z

remains, starts with the town being laid out in 1870 near a

�^tstamp mill.

months.

There were (2/ saloons In operation within^

The biw boom of the 188^^ found many adobe and

frame buildlnajs built on both sides of a wide main street.
A flay^p^e stood at the uphill end.

An old picture shows

waaon ruts forming a series of figure eights as people drove
to the front^ of each store^ then cut across to one on the

other side of the street.

In 1884 the population was 700 and Increasing.
There were two newspapers and a Ghlna^^wn. Strangely, there
were no banksand no churches.

evident.

Perhaps a basic truth was

Without one, perhaps you have a lesser need of

the other.
When the Atlantic and Pacific tracks were laid along

a route justmiles away. It was found that ore of lesser
A*

quality could be mined.

The town took on new life — tempor^ly.

Soon a junction town popped Into existence at the loadlnv site.
Within three years that town exceeded Mineral Park In size.

An election showed that the majority approved of the new town
as the county seat.

Mineral Park refused to give up the records.
The new town went on to

A midnight raid solved, the problem.

become a success
L

*

MAP WOTSi

they named It

Kingman.

-------------------- hmmW ■kUHL.aWL.il. IB IB UU

WUi —

The 1939. 15 minute Chloride, Arizona, United States

Geological Survey topographic map shows the site of Mineral Park,

but gives no Indication of the present mining complex.

�Silver was found here in 1892, and hy 1894 the
White Hills Mining Company had built a towi^^a mill and
had dug

miles of tunnels.

The mines were paying hand"^^

somely, and the fifteen hundred residents in the area didn’t

mind the occasional gully washer that rushed down the IThlte
Hills and floated away an outhouse or two.

What they did

mind was the shortage of drinking water and its ”hauled-ln’'

price I
The White Hills Mining Company fell into financial

dlfficult^^and an English outfit took over in 1895,

A 0xmile

pipe brought springwater to town and supplied the needs of
a new(^:stamp mill.

Most of the water went to the mill,

and the town folk still felt the shortap:e.

In two years

the original owners regained the

property^due to the English outfit's inability to make theta?

payments.

A big promotional effort was started, and the town

experienced its best year.

Then, with thinning veins

and

promotional claims unfulfilled, the mines and White Hills

began to fade.
A bad flood wiped out much of the town.

Men caught

200 feet underground could not climb out against the water
and debris pouring in.

Luckily, the shaft went deeper and

acted as a reservoir, or the men would have been trapped
and drowned.
V

�The post office closed in 191^, but by then most

of the town had been moved away or had collapsed from flood­

damaged foundations.
Until recently, several old shacks still remained,

stubbornly fighting the pull of gravity.

A new retirement

village, built a few miles beyond the site, did little to

protect the meager remains.

In 197^

the last shack collapsed

to a point where its eaves touched the ground.

The cemetery has a number of graves, each lined
with rocks, a few replete with accidental barrel cactus head/^
boards.

The ultimate Insult to a dead town is sickenlngly

evident there.

Two graves have been dug up and robbed.

One

of them was that of a child.

_____________________5k
MAP NOTSj

, Arizona,
The White Hillsyyl5 minute United States Geological

Survey topographic map shows the site.

ARIZO^^^^

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