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                  <text>Flyway: Journal of Writing and Environment

�The terms “migration route” and
“flyway” have in the past been used
more or less indiscriminately but
... it seems desirable to designate as

migration routes the individual lanes

of avian travel from breeding grounds

to winter quarters, and as flyways
those broader areas into which certain
migration routes blend or come
together....

—F.H. Kortright, The Ducks,
Geese and Swans ofNorth America

Flyway: Journal of
Writing and Environment
Vol. 14.1

�An Imaginary Fish
C
o
V5
a

nonfiction • flyway

I eat breakfast in diners, lhere are a number to choose from
in Casper, Wyoming, and they’re all similar. 'They’re full
of vinyl chairs and old men using salt and grease to hasten
their way into graveyards. Every ramshackle breakfast spot
in town has at least one waitress named Shirley, and even if
their names are really Megan or Janet, they could still pass
for Shirleys. My favorite egg and bacon hole stands next to
a truck stop on the interstate running beside the Bozeman
Trail. In its prime, the Tumbleweed Cafe served steak from
six to eleven, but the owners haven’t hosted a dinner in
fifteen years. 'They have all they can do to lure a counter full
of white males in for coffee before nine o’clock. I’m there at
quarter after eight.
When I moved to Wyoming, it became clear that
I was going to share meals with geologists if I was going to
frequent old diners. 'The regional economy has drawn earth
scientists to town for a century. In the early 1900s, a handful
of drillers found oil in quantities large enough to catch
the eye of petroleum giants Sinclair and Conoco. People
called Casper the “Oil City.” They projected it would grow
to become the hub of the Rockies—bigger than Denver.
It didn’t work out like that, but the fossils are still in the
ground, so we’re home to a high number of geoscientists.
I took geology as a freshman in college. I couldn’t
resist. Earth science did not relate to my major, but I didn’t
care. As a kid I spent entire afternoons walking gravel roads,
searching for agates. My parents gave me a rock polishing kit
in 1977. Every two months I loaded the tumbler and added
a cup of mysterious powder. When the machine shut off,
I opened the lid and found a container of gem stones. 'The
stripes and colors convinced me that there is enchantment
in the world beneath our feet.
I took that sense of awe with me to my geology
course, and I found a teacher whose sense of wonder
actually exceeded mine. Professor Ted Abrahams talked
about tectonic plates in a tone that I associate with religion.
I still use the terms and concepts that I learned—especially
when I’m on a road trip. 'The problem is that my wife gets
nervous when I point to the difference between igneous and

�64

flyway • nonfiction

Hanson

sedimentary rock through the window of the car at sixty
miles an hour.
When I began eavesdropping on the conversations
of geologists over breakfast, I noticed that the tone was less
than reverent. That took me by surprise. Mostly, the Earth
was referred to as a “son-of-a-bitch.” In truth, any person
or thing that came between these men and deposits of oil
were referred to this way: layers of bedrock, bureaucrats,
incompetent crews of employees. Come to think of it, most
people and things were referred to as sons-of-bitches. I don’t
mind that kind of talk. I use the terms myself. I use them
more than I should, but I like the old guys at the diner. I’m
looking forward to becoming one of them someday. I curse
as a way of practicing for life as a codger with nobody to
force me to behave myself. Son-of-a-bitch!

Today the conversation isn’t about drilling rigs, soil
composition, or the petroleum market. The subject this
morning is fly fishing. Jimmy drove over from Glenrock.
He dropped his wife off at the shopping mall. Fred asks
him what he's been up to and he explains that he fished the
Laramie River yesterday. I chime in that I’ve heard good
reports from the south fork of the stream.
Jimmy says, “Yeah. We did alright. My grandson
caught a half a dozen brook trout. We ate them on shore.
That kid is gonna be a fisherman.”
I go back to reading my copy of Desert Solitaire.
Fred asks Jim, “Have you fished Porter Creek?”
He replies, “No. I think that’s private land. I haven’t
asked permission to fish, but I heard there are bull trout over
there.”
Fred and Jim continue to talk about the area.
I continue to pretend that I’m reading, but I can’t read
because I’m busy listening to them. Jim explains that
you can access the water on pubhc land if you drive
south to Wheatland and then go west on a dirt road. The
stream carves a canyon into the east slope of the Laramie
Mountains. A rancher by the name of Hemstead owns the
property along the foothills of the range, but the creek
starts in the high country on land within the Medicine Bow
National Forest.

�Jim tells Fred about a rumor that Hemstead’s
grandfather used to bring buckets of bull trout back from
Montana. He says, “Ihe ospreys and pelicans ate most of
them, but the wise ones hunkered down, became adults, and
now they reproduce.”
Fred says, “I’ve heard about bull trout. Ihey’re like
brookies, but they’re big and aggressive.”
Jimmy says, “Brook-trout-a-go-go.”

An Imaginary
Fish

Two days later. I’m headed to Porter Creek. I’ve read about
bull trout. They’re endangered. Their standards for clean
water are high, and the number of western streams pure
enough for them shrunk in the twentieth century. Today, the
fish are protected. James Prosek painted a picture of a bull in
his masterful book of illustrations titled. Trout. The mixture
of uncommonness and beauty prompted me to drive down
past Wheatland and then west to the Medicine Bow.

While I’m loading my backpack in the car, my wife steps into
the garage with the helmet I use for skateboarding. She says,
“Take this with you.” She worries when I travel by myself,
especially when I set out for a new canyon. I don’t try hard
enough to ease her fears. I actually raise her level of concern
with stories of rattlesnakes and brushes with death on the
edges of cliffs. What can I say? It’s nice to have someone who
worries about you.
The stories are easy to exaggerate. Canyons can beat
you up. I come home with scrapes on my elbows and knees.
Once, I came home with a case of poison ivy that ran from
my toes up to a spot where you would not want a skin rash.
Another time, I had to climb home with a gash on my ankle
so deep it revealed the bone. I’m not about to start wearing a
helmet when I fish, but I promise Lynn I’ll come back safe.
There is no trail to Porter Creek. Still, I find a spot where
people park their cars. I am not the first one to make the
descent. It looks simple enough. The gorge is four hundred
feet deep, and I manage without having to climb. There is
just one place where I have to hang by my hands and drop
over a ledge.
Once I’m on shore, I fit the pieces of my fly rod
together. I slip out of my boots and into a pair of sandals.

65

�66

flyway • nonfiction

Hanson

I tie a Goddard’s caddis fly to the end of my line, and then
take a seat on a downed tree. Beside a creek, I usually get
so excited I charge into the water, flailing like an idiot. This
time I take stock of what lies before me, above me, and
to the sides. Fifteen minutes pass. It’s easy to spend time
watching a stream: stripes on a canyon wall, the shapes of
cottonwoods along the bank, pillows of water bubbling up
behind boulders.
In contrast, no one takes time to stare at a football
field. Baseball diamonds don’t inspire, and I’ve never heard
of anybody getting lost in the majesty of a hockey arena.
I am reluctant to compare fishing to other sports. I don’t
think of angling as a sport. I don’t really know what to call it,
except “something I have to do, despite several good reasons
not too.”
'This isn’t my first staring contest with a creek. I am
thankful for my sunglasses. A harsh light beats on Wyoming.
Low elevation states have a mile’s worth of atmosphere
to take the edge off of the rays. In the West, we’re right up
on the sun. 'The light can burn in ways that we don’t even
understand.

My wife and I met in Tucson. We rented our first apartment
from an artist by the name ofJohn Botrell. The walls of his
studio were lined with eight by ten foot desert scenes. At
first, I assumed the pictures were photographs. While he
sifted through a stack of paper, searching for the proper
lease to sign, I took a close look at the images. 'They were
paintings—perfect reproductions of the local scenery.
When I asked about his process, he explained that he mixes
a dollop of white paint into every color on his palette. In the
end, the shades and tones match our squint-eyed view of the
landscape.
The precision of the work struck me, but I am a
fan of more impressionistic art. I like it when painters take
some creative license. When it comes to reahsm, I say, “Get a
camera if you want to make a photograph.”

On our way home, I asked Lynn, “Isn’t he just
another realist, trying to recreate the desert with tiny camelhair brushes?”
She replied, “No.”

�Then after a moment of silence^ she said, “He is a

cactus.”

An imaginary
Fish

My line falls onto the water. Then it drifts toward me on the
creek. I pick up the fly and toss it over and over. I watch the
course of the fake bug on the current every time.
I fish dry flies. Ihat means I fish sporadically. Mostly,
I take to the water when bugs hatch off of the surface.
I’ve never felt the need to keep a strict angling schedule. I
have friends that take pride in fishing across the calendar,
including December and January. Others spend a hundred
days on the water every year. Such efforts are very American.
When we enjoy something, we tend to take that thing to an
extreme.
For example, I have a colleague I cannot picture
without a pipe full of tobacco jutting from between his
teeth. Of course, there is nothing wrong with enjoying the
smoke from a bowl of burning tobacco. I bring a pipe with
me when I pack into the Big Horn Range. Once or twice a
year, around sunset, I like to commemorate a moment spent
alone at the base of a granite cirque. But a dozen times a
day? Every single day that you’re alive?
White people learned about tobacco from Native
Americans. Ihe plant does not grow in Europe. For a
thousand years, native people coaxed smoke from the leaves
of the plant they called “kinnikinnick.” They used it for
ceremonial purposes. Tobacco played a role in attempts at
diplomacy. A chief would inhale smoke from a pipe, raise it
in the direction of the four winds, and then pass it on. The
ritual formed and then helped to maintain relationships. The
smoldering leaves made the men’s breath and the air around
them visible—it symbolized their common bond to the
Earth and its atmosphere. White people turned the act into a
meaningless habit.
I continue to cast, and my attention shifts to the geologists at
the diner. Fred and Jim spent their careers drilling, dredging,
stripping, and otherwise ruining the land, but when they
talked about the possibility of bull trout up on Porter Creek,
their eyes shone. They liked the thought that someone gave
the rare fish a new habitat.

67

�Hanson

Westerners have an odd relationship with the
environment. For generations, newcomers took what they
wanted. At various times, waves of settlers flocked to the
region to fulfill their ambitions: miners, loggers, trappers,
homesteaders, buffalo hunters, and today, a combination of
roughnecks and corporate executives. Museums are full of
sepia-toned photos of men with waxed moustaches posed
in front of sawmills, mines, drill towers, and mountains
of bison skulls. We spent two hundred years acting like
voracious adolescents.

flyway • nonfiction

Not long ago, our culture and history met up with a
population of bull trout struggling to hold their place in
the Jarbidge Wilderness of Nevada. Jarbidge, Nevada isn’t
on the way to anything. It’s a tiny berg at the end of a gravel
road. Its population is made up of ranchers, prospectors, and
an assortment of people who dropped out of society. It’s a
prickly bunch. They’re isolated and committed to a way of
life that began four branches up their family trees.
In 1998, a storm washed out a road that ran
alongside the Jarbidge River. The road led to the wilderness
area north of town. When the Forest Service heard about
the damage, they decided to close the road as opposed to
having it repaired. They based their choice on a concern for
the bull trout in the river. They assumed that road building
in Jarbidge Canyon would increase the amount of silt
running downstream, and bull trout cannot tolerate any dirt
in the water. Their gills evolved in clear creeks. Anything less
than pure can snuff them out.
The people ofJarbidge did not like the decision. The
thought that they would have to alter their driving habits
for a fish sent them into an angry funk. They protested
the ruling that prevented them from using public land for
their private purposes. At first, the protest took the form of
letters and telephone conversations, but those efforts did
not succeed. In the face of having to bend their interests to
those of a threatened trout, the people ofJarbidge began
to organize a full-scale public tantrum. They started laying
plans for a “shovel brigade.”
On July 4th, 2000, a hundred people gathered to
rebuild the road that had been closed to save the bull trout
in the river. The event seized the attention of the media.

�Interviewees vented their frustration. They trumpeted their
right to do what they pleased on the land their ancestors
stole from Native Americans. Actually, they left out the part
about living on stolen land and borrowed time. Nobody
even mentioned trout—the sole reason the Forest Service
decided not to fix the road.

An imaginary
Fish

People like using public land as they see fit.
Throughout our history we encouraged that tendency—for
example, we used the Hard Rock Mining Act of 1872 to
help settle the Rockies. We said, “There’s gold in them thar
hills!” and we told people to go out and get some. Although,
at the time, that meant gray haired old guys with teams of
mules were lighting out for the territory. It was quaint and
romantic. I grew up watching Grizzly Adams in prime time. I
know the story. You do too.
So do the people ofJarbidge, Nevada. They know
the tale perhaps too well. The story says, “Big, wild men
should do what they want in this big, wild world.” The story
made sense in the 1800s. The problem is that it’s not the
1800s anymore. The twenty-first century world isn’t big
or wild. It’s indefatigably small, and some of its pieces are
shrinking and threatening to vanish forever.
The America where everybody takes what they
want, without a thought toward the consequence is gone.
The Hard Rock Mining Act of 1872 is still the law of the
land, but lately gray haired men with teams of mules are not
the ones taking advantage of its provisions. Today, corporate
giants based in places like England, Denmark, and Canada
use the law to extract oil and minerals from the American
West. The quaint, romantic story about striking out on your
own and making it big as a freedom-loving individual turned
into the story of how corporations use lawyers and lobbyists
to take what they want from states hke Wyoming, New
Mexico, and Montana.
I decide to hike upstream on shore. Porter Creek’s
streambed is pocked with boulders, each one a potential
hiding place for trout. Twenty yards along I fling a fly onto
the water upstream from a rock. The bug drifts along the
near side of the stone and vanishes—gulped by a fish.
The trout runs for a deep stretch and I follow him
through the current. I make it to the edge of the pool, but

o

5’
o'
o

69

�Hanson

I’m up to my waist, so I cannot wade any further. I let the
bend and flex of the rod wear the fish out to the point where
I can pull him toward me. It’s a brook trout—just a common
fish. He is spectacular. I don’t hold him for too long. I release
the hook from his jaw and then ease him back into the creek.
The stream fishes well through the morning and into
the afternoon. I catch seven brook trout within a mile of my
vehicle. The rock cliffs on both sides of the creek close in
and grow taller as I make my way upstream. When I stop, the
gap between the walls creates a narrow band of sky up at the
canyon’s rim. Through the slot I watch two prairie falcons
soar in circles, sliding into and out of view.

70

flyway • nonfiction

On the bank, beside the water, I develop a theory. Bull
trout never swam the pools of Porter Creek. I’m afraid the
geologists at the Tumbleweed Cafe are mildly delusional,
but I forgive them. They are old. They spent forty years
working to help corporations extract profits from the public
land in Wyoming. When they were young, I’m sure that
seemed like a sound choice. The business gave them stature,
built six- and seven-bedroom homes, put Cadillacs and
pickup trucks in three car garages. Even so, at some point,
people grow tired of seeing their plains and forests bought
up and ravaged by multinational companies. At some point
you start to root for the underdog, even when the dog is an
imaginary fish.

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