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                  <text>Life Writing

VOLUME 9

NUMBER 2

{JUNE 2012)

Brown Trout, Pantheists
and Me

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Chad Hanson
Keywords self-Reflection; travel; fly fishing; spirituality

In the first sentence of A River Runs Through It, Norman Maclean offers a line
that explains the essence of his childhood. He writes, ‘There was no clear line
between religion and fly fishing’. 1 first saw those words 21 years ago. At the
time, I wasn’t sure what he meant, so this year I reread the story. I assumed that I
missed themes and details. As it turns out, I missed a lot.
I still have questions about the relationship between faith and fishing, but
rereading Maclean forced me to think about prayer. Praying and casting share a
likeness. They’re both shots into the invisible world beyond our vision or capacity
to know. They both rely on an ability to hope. In the past two decades, I’ve cast
more lines than prayers, and at times that made me feel a little uneasy. I felt like
I fell from the fold.
I learned to pray by whispering a series of requests. Some of them bordered on
the menial. Some of them had to do with the outcome of particular college
hockey tournaments. As an adult, I became less inclined to place demands on the
creator of the universe. That meant I prayed less, and as I prayed less, I started
spending more time in the library. I needed to find out if my actions were going to
buy me a ticket to eternal damnation.
I discovered that prayers are offered in a range of ways. They also come with a
variety of intentions. I like Emerson on the subject. He wrote, ‘Prayer is the
contemplation of the facts of life*. In his mind, there are no requests. There is no
admission of sins or transgressions. The act of prayer is like an acknowledgement
or a meditation. When I ponder Ralph Waldo’s definition, it feels like permission
to think of the time I spend appreciating life as a prayer.
I also take comfort in the words of Mary Oliver. She is wiser than me, but she is
equally confused, and that makes me feel good. She once wrote, ‘I don’t know
what a prayer is, but I do know how to pay attention’. I’m usually kept from
paying attention to anything that is not on my to-do list. Like everyone else, I’m
bound up in our culture of speed, but each summer 1 take time to travel on foot
ISSN 1448-4528 print/1751-2964 online/12/020221-08
n Routledge

© 2012 Taylor a Francis
http;//dx.doi.org/10.1080/14484528.2012.667739

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HANSON

with a backpack. On the bank of a creek, with a fly rod in my hand, the world
receives my attention. This year, I pencilled ‘Wind Rivers’ on to the calendar in
August.
The Winds are scenic and remote. They are a land of dark forests and lucid
creeks. Native Americans camped in the foothills and hunted the slopes for
15,000 years. White settlers marvelled at the beauty of the peaks and the
bountiful game—including the cutthroat trout.
The ancestors of modern cutthroats found their way to the region through the
tributaries of the Snake River. Until the twentieth century, they were the only
trout to swim the waters of the Wind Rivers. That started to change in 1930,
when a fishing guide by the name of Finis Mitchell started stocking fingerlings in
lakes above 9,000 feet. Over the course of a decade, he packed more than two
million trout into the range, in wooden buckets strapped to the backs of donkeys.
He’s been described as the ‘Johnny Appleseed of Trout’. He wandered all over
the mountains, planting fish in the water.
Four generations of fly fishers are familiar with the work of Finis Mitchell.
Some vrish he would have left the lakes and streams as he found them—solely
occupied by cutthroat trout. Others are happy to catch brookies, browns and
rainbows. Mitchell even stocked his favorite lakes with golden trout from
California. I know people who make an annual pilgrimage to the Winds in search
of golden trout. But the jury is split. For every fly fisher that would have thanked
him for filling the waters with a variety of species, there are others who shrug
their shoulders and wish the ecosystem looked the way it did before he stocked
non-native fish.
When a discussion of Mitchell’s work comes up in Wyoming, there are questions
about his motivation. Some are quick to point out that he made his living as a
guide. To Mitchell, more fish in the lakes meant happier clients and therefore
more bookings and higher profits for his business. It is easy to imagine how money
might have moved him to sow the seeds of new trout populations, and I am
typically satisfied to use greed to explain behavior, but not in the case of Finis
Mitchell.
In 1999, the University of Utah published a guidebook that he wrote entitled
Wind River Trails. It’s not a regular guidebook. The editors collected Mitchell’s
sketches and maps of routes through the mountains. Then they placed them in an
order that corresponds to trailheads. That is a standard arrangement, but the
book is distinctive because it begins with his autobiography, and it is unique
because it’s sprinkled with poems. I have 20 guidebooks on the bookshelf in my
office. None of them contain poems.
In his verses, Mitchell reveals his purpose. When you read the poetry, you
picture an evangelist, spreading the word as he spreads fish. He makes it plain
that he felt moved to plant trout in the Wind Rivers, and then share them vrith
every person he could enlist to tag along on fishing trips. In a poem titled ‘My
Thoughts’, he says, ‘To enjoy life, we must help others do likewise’, and in a
scrap of verse titled ‘My Pledge to Future Generations’, he sheds light on the

�BROWN TROUT, PANTHEISTS AND ME

223

force that compelled him to stock the Winds with fish from the West coast,
Germany and New England:

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V/hile here on earth I shah endeavor with all my ability and steadfast
efforts to preserve and add to our wilderness,
so all who follow in my footsteps might have the same opportunity to
use and enjoy it as I have.

I understand Mitchell’s desire to protect the natural world. I feel the same sense
of responsibility that inspired him, and I also share his enthusiasm for wild places.
My only question has to do with our capacity to ‘add to our wilderness’.
On the way to the Wind Rivers, Highway 23 weaves through the Sweetwater
Rocks, a region of granite uprisings. The planet pushed mountainous stones up
out of the high prairie, and then the wind sculpted them into monoliths. The
scenery makes it tough to concentrate on the road or my steering wheel. After a
quick stop in Lander, I jump back into my wagon and point it toward the
trailhead. There are no paved thoroughfares or passes over the range, so a trip to
the Winds involves driving on gravel streets.
I roll over the crest of a hill and come upon a group of antelope. A buck and
three lady admirers eat grass on the shoulder. Pronghorn often graze between the
fences that line roads. Cows eat the plants on the lee side of the barbed wire, but
in the ditches where the cows can’t go, the vegetation flourishes.
I startle the animals. The buck raises his head when he hears the car. He stands
like a silhouette for a second, and then he bolts, smashing into the fence on the
roadside. In the moment that it takes to pass the antelope, I watch the buck
crash into the fence another time, with the females nervously milling around in
the bottom of the ditch.
Pronghorn antelope can’t jump. I shouldn’t say that. They could jump. It’s just
that they don’t. Or they won’t. It never occurs to them to use their legs to lift
them over anything. Pronghorn evolved on the prairies and basins, in between the
ranges of the Rocky Mountain states. For half a million years they had no reason
to think about leaping. There were bears and lions to outrun in foot races, but
there were no obstacles. No logs or sticks of any size. No rocks that they could
not avoid by turning to the left or right.
White people changed the formula. We fenced the West. By the end of a
century, pronghorn faced barriers that stretched before them to the horizon. Our
history has been tough on their migratory patterns. If you look closely at
pronghorn in states like Wyoming, you will notice the hair on their backs is teased
up and the skin is often scarred. They spend too much time scraping through
horizontal layers of barbed wire. It’s ironic that we refer to fences, houses and
outbuildings as ‘improvements’. Antelope don’t likely see the fencing of the
prairie as an improvement.
Our actions are motivated by self-regard. We often build and change and
destroy without thinking of the consequence. That is a new way of relating to the
planet, however. We have a longer history of pantheistic thoughtfulness. In the

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224

HANSON

second century BC, Marcus Aurelius said, ‘Everything is interv/oven’, and he went
on to add, ‘The web is holy’. I am not sure that Finis Mitchell thought about the
degree to which everything is interwoven, but I know that he would have agreed
with Marcus Aurelius on one thing—the web is holy.
I ease the wagon to a stop at the trailhead. I spend a minute stuffing food and
clothes into my pack. Before I step on to the trail, I spread my topographic map
over the hood of the Subaru. I haven’t hiked here in the past, so I try to memorize
the route before I have to wonder where I’m going in the vrilderness.
I start on a trail that leads into the north, along the bank of New Fork Creek. I
plan to follow the path up to 10,000 feet, cross three ridges, pass by the south side
of the Lozier Ponds and reach my destination on the shores of Elbow Lake, resting
below Sky Pilot Ridge. I plan to take two days to reach the end and two days to hike
back. That leaves a day to fly fish and meander through the rock and ice.
Hiking down the bank of the New Fork, I am reminded of a phrase used by the
Russian writer Gogol. He described the world as a ‘surging immensity’. Water
rushes beside the trail. The green ghost-backs of trout slip in between boulders.
Nuthatches chirp in the pine trees, and a flock of turkey vultures circles
overhead—snow-covered peaks in the distance.
Three miles from the parking lot, the path leaves the shore of the creek and
switchbacks up a ridge between Dome Peak and Double Top Mountain. I arrive at
the Lozier Ponds in the light of dusk. I’m exhausted. I intended to fish today, but
my eagerness waned as I struggled up the final climb. Mosquitoes attack every
patch of skin I’ve left exposed. All I can think about is setting up my tent.
In wilderness areas, the Forest Service insists that you leave 100 feet of ground
between your shelter and a body of water. I’ve always obeyed the rule. You never
know when a flood could rise up and steal you from the bank of a river. That is not
the only reason to comply, though. Animals come to drink in the evening. If they
see people on shore they shy away, and they need the water.
Behind the walls of the tent I take time to eat a sandwich, but I am not tired
enough to go to sleep. In what remains of the alpenglow above the peaks off to
the west, I decide to stroll through the ponds of the Lozier valley. I walk through a
stand of willow bushes to the north. I pass between ponds on a strip of land, and
from my map I learn that I am closing in on the last of the pools. Then I step
through a row of branches and I’m greeted by an acre of water.
A bull moose wanders out of the willow shrubs on the bank to my left. I sink
into the grass and hold my body motionless. Moose are keen when it comes to
detecting movement. The bull walks knee-deep into the pool. He turns back
toward the shore and nibbles on the branch of a willow. He makes a puffing sound
through his nostrils. He swings his rack toward the water, and then back to the
shrubbery. I can’t take my eyes off of the moose. I feel like I’m getting a gift—a
chance to watch a beast, four times bigger than me, caught in the moment on the
bank of a spring pond. Hiding in the wings, I am reminded that I am not the center
of the universe. I begin to doubt the universe has a center. If it does, I think it
might exist in the heart of this animal or maybe in the sand and gravel
underneath his feet.

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It’s getting dark, and I still have to hike back to the tent, so I stand up and start
to v/alk away. After 10 paces, I look back and find the moose studying my retreat,
but he is not concerned. When our eyes meet he goes back to chewing the willow.
I sleep well next to the Lozier Ponds. In the morning, I’m up at sunrise and so
are the mosquitoes. I boil water, make a cup of coffee and then enjoy it from
behind the screen door of the tent. When the caffeine settles in my veins, I pack
my gear and start down the trail to Elbow Lake.
I make it to shore by mid-morning. Even before noon the light from the sun is
palpable. I set up camp on the edge of a stand of white bark pine. The site offers
a view of the lake and the ridge above. Geologists refer to the landform as a
cirque. 70,000 years ago, glaciers crept over the region. They scraped the soil
away and revealed granite from the Pre-Cambrian age.
As I stake my tent to the ground, the 20-storey wall of stone pulls on my
attention. My eyes drift away from the tent to linger on the rock that soars above
my site. After I put the last stake in the ground, I assemble my fly rod and walk
toward the bank, but before I make it to the water I stop to sit on a boulder. Years
ago, I discovered that 2000 feet of granite have the effect of shrinking your ego
to the size of a raisin. It’s easy to feel big strolling through the rooms of your own
house. When you roll down the sidewalks of your town, the setting feels like it’s
been catered to you, but a 20-storey cirque can bend your sense of where you fit
in this world. In relation to the rock, my 40 years amount to the time it takes for a
bubble to form and then pop on the surface of a creek.
I used to test myself against the elements. I used to choose routes that were
long and steep enough to challenge my strength and endurance. If I finished what
I set out to achieve, I went home feeling accomplished. My approach is different,
today. When I spend time at high elevation, beneath cliff walls made of granite, it
is to remind myself that it doesn’t matter if I live up to expectations.
We turn to dust.
I spend half an hour letting my eyes wander over the wall of stone that foists
the ridge up close to 13,000 feet. Six stories up and to the right a rock
outcropping plays host to a row of pines that cling to life on the side of a cliff.
The trees remind me of a conversation that took place between my wife and me
outside Cooke City, Montana.
Lynn and 1 sit beside the Lamar River. We’re staring at the peak they call The
Thunderer. We pass a pair of binoculars between us. Four pelicans follow the
river toward the west. Lynn sees a strip of pines higher than the tree line, and she
wonders out loud how they grew up above the forest.
I can’t resist an opportunity to speak. I slip into professor mode and hold forth
on a lesson from the biology course I took as a sophomore. I explain how birds eat
seeds, fly them up to ridges, poop them out and start new stands of trees. She
lets me finish. Then without looking my direction, she says, ‘I thought God
planted the trees on that ridge’. I take a quiet sip of coffee from our Thermos.
Then I say, ‘Yeah. I suppose he did’.

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HANSON

I stand up and walk toward the lake, but on my way, I turn to look at the
boulder that had been serving as my perch. It’s a piece of granite from the wall
above.
Over the course of time, water seeps into the crevices of rocks. In the fall when
the temperature drops, the water expands and presses on the fissures. That widens
the crack and busts the stone. In other words, a cup of water pried this three-ton
boulder from a cliff. Think about that, next time you fill a glass tumbler at your
sink. Buddhists have long held that water is the Earth’s most powerful force—not
volcanoes, not earthquakes, not killer whales—nothing flashy or dramatic.
When I leave home for more than a few days, I store my acoustic guitar in its
case along with a freshly dampened sponge. The sponge is made for this purpose.
It has a hook on one end that allows it to dangle into the body of the instrument.
When I return, the first strum is an octave higher than before. The water
evaporates and the wood absorbs the liquid through the air. That forces the guitar
to swell and stretch its strings. Loren Eisley wrote one of my favorite lines on this
subject. He said, ‘If there is magic on this planet it is contained in water’.
I walk toward the bank. Mosquitoes buzz over the lake, so I choose a fly to
match their appearance. I loft a cast into the air. A light wind riffles the surface. I
let the fly sit still for a moment. Then I jiggle the line to make the fake bug look
alive. I watch the fly for ten more seconds. No takers. The lake is deeper to the
left, so I walk the shore sending casts into the blue water. I haven’t seen any fish,
so I assume it’s going to take something special to coax one up to take a fly.
I sift through my tackle until I find a Stimulator, an oversized orange tuft of fur
with a hook on the inside. It hasn’t been used lately. I ruffle my fingers through
the hackle to spruce it up and give it life. While I fiddle with the fly, I notice a
piece of plastic on the ground. It is a leader bag. The retail sticker on the outside
says, ‘Three Pack!’ I catch myself whispering, ‘What the hell?’ I wonder what kind
of person hikes to a spot like this one—marches two days away from anything—
only to junk the place up with reminders of our throw-away society.
It is tough to imagine. Chet Raymo suggested that Americans are autistic when
it comes to our relationship with the land. He claims that we are incapable of
making a genuine connection to the world, which is odd for a nation that declares
itself to be Christian, and thus loving in every direction. In his book When God is
Cone, Everything is Holy, Raymo recounts our long-running relationship with our
environment.
He explains that we’ve been at odds with nature for most of our history.
Plagues wiped us out. Droughts starved children, wild animals chased us and fires
burned entire villages. Nature used to make us feel afraid. Thus, people harbor a
deep-rooted sense of anger. Fear, hate and disrespect are a nuclear family. They
live in an apartment in the basement of our temperaments. I tuck the plastic bag
into the pocket of my shorts. I figure it won’t kill me to carry it off the mountain.
I keep casting. Then the wind picks up. The breeze makes it difficult to fling
the fly, but I continue anyhow. I watch the lake like a sailor. Ripples on the
surface let me locate the next gust and when I see a break I take a cast. I’m able
to send the Stimulator 40 feet into the air, past a drop-off into deep water.

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The waves begin to toss the fly. I can barely see the bug, bobbing in between
whitecaps. With the fly still 30 feet from shore, I lose sight of it completely. I lift
the rod to bring my line up into view—and there’s a splash. Then my rod bends as
a trout makes a run toward the depths.
The fish’s attempt to shake the fly takes him down into the water, but the line
keeps him from running away. He swims to the right, and I hike along shore to match
his pace, reeling and easing him toward the bank. At this point, the trout’s identity
is still a mystery. By now a rainbow would have jumped twice—shaking and tossing
its head. I think to myself. It’s a golden trout. I’ve never seen one in person. I have
photographs and paintings of them, but I haven’t seen one in the flesh.
The fish has more energy than he should. It takes longer than I expect to lure
him into the shallows. I take up line, but then he pulls it back with charges
toward the center of the lake. Two more minutes and I pull him in past the drop­
off, into water less than three feet deep. I see the fish against the bottom. His
shape, color and markings are familiar. It is a German brown.
He’s beautiful. 1 step into the lake. As the water laps onto my knees I reach
down, grab the fish, and raise him up so I can pull the hook out of his mouth. He
isn’t gold, but I don’t care. His belly is awash in copper. Orange spots cover his
sides. I do not hold the trout for too long, but in the moment before I release him
back into the lake, the situation strikes me as a miracle. I am aware that there is
no mystery in the daily operation of a fish. We know where they came from. We
know the purpose of every cell in an animal’s body. In other words, we know how
a trout works, but we don’t know the answers to all of the questions. In
particular, we don’t have answers to the pesky little question, ‘Why?’ I ask
myself. Why this fish? Why this mountain? Why are we here, together, in this
corner of the otherwise barren cosmos?
Like ours, trout’s bodies are made of water. As I slip the fish beneath a wave, it
occurs to me that I am pouring water back into water. The trout swims across the
shallow shelf extending out into the lake. I watch him while he shrinks away—a
band of fog—a pack of molecules that agreed to take the shape of a brown trout.
I sit on a boulder near the bank. I am not through casting, but the fish gave me an
occasion to contemplate.
The Bible paints a picture of the afterlife: pearly gates, streets made of gold,
angels on high, etc. I know people who spend hours trying to imagine the details.
I cannot think along those lines. Most of the time there is too much in front of me
to try to comprehend. My views lean toward those of Thoreau, who wrote, ‘Give
me one world at a time, please’. For my part, I would shrink the request further. I
say, ‘One trout at a time’. Giving a fish my reverence might be the best I can do in
the way of prayer.

References
Emerson, Ralph Waldo. Self-Reliance and Other Essays. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications,
1993.

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HANSON

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Eiseley, Loren. The Immense Journey: An Imaginative Naturalist Explores the Mysteries of
Man and Nature. New York: Vintage Books, 1959.
Gogol, Nikolai. Dead Souls. New York: Penguin Classics, 2004.
Maclean, Norman. A River Runs Through it and Other Stories. Chicago: University of
Chicago Press, 1976.
Oliver, Mary. The House of Light. New York: Beacon Press, 1990.
Richardson, Robert. Henry Thoreau: A Life of the Mind. Berkeley: University of California
Press, 1986.

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              <text>Searchable PDF</text>
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              <text>&lt;em&gt;Life Writing&lt;/em&gt; is published by Taylor &amp;amp; Francis, LLC</text>
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