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                  <text>The Nevada Review

Vol. 4

Spring 2012

No. 1

�A Field Guide to the Trout Stream in Your Heart
Chad Hanson
Early in the morning on the fifth of August, I start north out of
Casper up the east flank of the Big Horn Range. The prairie is green on
account of a wet spring and a storm in late July. My course will take me
past Sheridan up to the town of Ranchester, where I catch a route
through the mountains. Once I’m over the summit, I plan to head
north one more time, across the Montana border, and onto a dirt road
that leads to a canyon with Ram’s Horn Creek stirring at the bottom.
While I’m driving I take note of the hawks perched on fence posts
and telephone poles. Hawk number seven swoops toward the ground
but I lose sight of him as he drops into the sagebrush. I assume he
ound a field mouse or a prairie dog. It makes me wonder what hawks
think about when they spot their prey from above. Do they see tender
eg muscles? Do they begin to imagine the taste of a heart? I bet they
do. Why wouldn’t they?

I ask myself, ‘Why don’t I think along those lines?” I do not think
of food when I see animals. Sometimes I skip breakfast when I’m on
a fishing trip. Even with hunger pulling at my attention, when I catch
a trout I do not see fillets. I admire the form and the colors. Then I put
the fish back in the water. When I flush pheasants from the brush
beside a creek, I do not think of drumsticks as they fly away, and when
I see cattle in a pasture I don’t picture them as cheeseburgers. We are
not the same as other animals.
My friend Beck believes that we are driven to fly fish by the forces
of biology. He claims that we are no different from any other predator,
n his mind, it is an inborn lust for blood that drives us to lakes and
rivers. For years, I sat in the passenger seat of his pickup, listening to
stories about how our choices are determined by nature. Finally, I said,

Chad Hanson lives with his wife and two cats in Casper, Wyoming.
He teaches sociology at Casper College, contributes to academic
journals, and writes poems in the haiku tradition. His essays and
mort Stones have appeared in
Sky Journal, Mountain Gazette, Third
Coast, Pilgrimage, South Dakota Peview, and Morth Dakota Quarter^
among others. His first book. Swimming with Trout, is available from'
the University of New Mexico Press.

�Beck. I do what I want. I do things when I want and how I want I’m
not driven by anything.”
, , . He didn’t like that.' He appreciates the thought that his fly fishing
habit comes to him as a primordial instinct. I am sympathetic. I warn
an explanation for why I spend so much time up to my knees in moving
wamr, and the biological explanation is easy, but I know it’s not the

I take a left onto the road that meanders over the Big Horns The
dimb to the top is drawn out over twenty miles. I take my time on
the switchbacks The views get longer as I twist up the east slope.
When I reach the summit, the road straightens and tracks off to foe
west.
I make a stop. Before foe road bends down toward foe lower
elevations, it runs within two miles of foe Medicine Wheel The site has
been preserved by foe managers of foe Bighorn National Forest
Curious travelers park their cars and hike to foe edge of a butte where
native people placed stones on foe ground in foe shape of a circle. The
form is sixty-five feet in diameter. A second circle marks foe center of
foe wheel, and foe center is connected to foe rim by twenty-eight
spokes or lines made with rocks set into foe soil.

Historians and anthropologists have spent generations trying to
assess the meaning of foe Wheel. The spokes align with astrophysical
patterns over foe course of a year. There are spokes that point toward
foe rising and setting sun during foe solstices. The total number of
spokes correspond to foe lunar cycle, and there are spokes that line up
with stars like Rigel and Sirius.
Even so, foe intent of foe Wheel’s creators has been a source of
contention. No one knows who built foe circles and their motivation is
unclear. Crow elders can only offer that foe site was built by people
vX
a chance that foe Medicine
Wheel exists in its place and shape because foe builders liked its looks
“Aesthetic reasons” have been offered as a rationale for its size and
location. Standing alongside foe stones—staring two hundred miles
into the distance—that speculation feels on target. It is hard to imagine '
that people built foe Wheel because they were biologically driven to
place rocks in circles at foe edge of scenic overlooks. It’s even tougher
to see how instincts could have played a role in producing any of the
meaningful things that we created over foe course of humanity—music.

�71/

Chad Hanson

philosophy, or the; great works of literature. Through art we transcend
our biology.
Last year I served as a member of a panel convened to discuss the
subject of writing about fly fishing. I sat at one end of a table. To mv
flght sat a hero of mine, Ted Leeson, weU known for The Habit ofTdvers
To his right sat another hero, John Gierach, famous for Trout Turn and
a dozen other well regarded books. When the presentation started, each
of us talked for ten minutes about the process we go through when we
write stories or egsays. As the low ranking member on the panel
I spoke first. Then Leeson addressed the group, and Gierach finished
the presentation. We left thirty minutes for questions.
The first person to raise a hand directed his comment to Gierach.
A man in the front row asked, “Why fly fishing?” I sat there thinking”
Thank you . I imagined that I was going to hear our guru address the’
rundamental issue that we face.

• Gierach stared at the ceiling for a second. A room full of fly fishers
waited with anticipation. He looked back at the audience. Gierach
turned his gaze to the person who posed the question. Then he said
“It’s pretty.”
’
I
_
I wasn’t the onjy one thinking, “What?” I could see it on the faces
in the crowd. Fly fishing is “pretty?” While I pondered the answer
Gierach talked about the first time he saw someone cast a fly rod’
I thought about the first time I watched somebody casting, knee deep in
a mountain stream. The beauty struck me, too.

Fly fishing is not the most effective way to catch a trout. If you just
want to put a fish in your net—you carry a carton of worms to a local
waterway. Everyone knows that live bait works the best. But here we
were, a crowd full of people who had disavowed the most effective way
to catch a fish, because a fly line looks better. The Navajo are fond of
the saying, “Go in beauty,” and Gierach is right. Fly fishing is at least
one way that white people abide.

Leeson went next. He took the same question. He started with
a story about waiting for a flight in the Pordand, Oregon airport For
five minutes no one understood his point. He painted a picture of the
scene in the concourse. He described how he sat next to a woman with
a^two year old resting in a collapsible stroUer. He explained that the
child started crying when one of the airline employees barked an
announcement through a microphone.

�In response, ±e mother held up a quilt and stretched it in front of
her face, hiding herself from the child. Every ten seconds she pulled the
blanket^^away. Then she stuck her face up toward the toddler and
cooed, Peek-a-bool” Soon the kid was giggling and squirming.
It s a scene we ve aU enacted. We have been behind the quilt, and
we have been in the stroller. I wasn’t sure what that had to do with fly
fishing, but then Leeson made a transition to talking about one of his
trips to the Deschutes River. Once again he took care to describe the
setting: swift water, peaks in the distance, a forest of larch and pine. He
talked, about flipping a blue-winged olive forty feet upstream.
He explained how he had to mend his line to make sure the fly found
a sweet spot. He told us how the olive looked as it spun down the
bank. As we listened to Leeson, we became children nestled in our
seats.

Then he cooed, “Peek-a-boo!”
A redside trout attacked the olive. Trout don’t say “peek-a-boo”
when they attempt to eat an artificial fly, but they might as well. We fly
fish, in part, because we like surprises.
Gierach offered us beauty. Leeson gave us unresolved mystery and
the pleasure that follows when something uncertain becomes clear. All
I had to talk about was a modest childhood, spent in central Minnesota.
I grew up on a creek set in between a swamp and a hardwood forest.
But I didn’t teU the crowd about the water or the woods, at least not in
the beginning. I started out by asking the audience if they’d ever seen
somebody look at a piece of scenery and say, “This reminds me of...”

Memories are uncanny. It is incredible what we can store and then
conjure up in our minds, but the long record of people, places, and
events creates a precedent, which we use to judge and then compare
each moment we live through. For most of us, there are portions of our
childhoods that are tough to follow. I spent summers wading and
splashing in a stream beside my parent’s home. I took naps on the
bank me and the birds, fish, swamp grass, and snapping turtles. No
politics. No financial concerns. No knowledge of pollution, climate
change, or species extinction. Compared to adult life, our childhoods
often shine like pure states of affairs, but they are gone. In the words of
Jackson Browne, time is a “conqueror,” banishing the things we love
into the past. We cannot get our youth back, but we can try, and I am
not ashamed to admit that I do that with a fly rod in my hand.

�Chad Hanson
_ I take one more moment to look at the Medicine Wheel. Then
I hike back to the car and continue down the west slope of the ranee
After twenty minutes, I reach the road that ends at the mouth of Ram’s
Horn Canyon.

At this point, names like Ram’s Horn are nothing more than
reminders of the fauna that used to roam the ranges of the West. Eight
years ago, on our way to Yellowstone, my wife and I made a stop at die
Bighorn Sheep Center in Dubois, Wyoming. The center sits on
the south side of the road that runs through the middle of town. Inside
the building there are mounted sheep, taken from every comer of the
world. Some of the mounts hang on the walls. Others are placed on
die faux ridges of carefully wrought exhibits. The displays are
impressive.
On our way out, I stopped at the counter to talk with one of the
center s staff. The woman looked to be fifty years old. Her hair was
pulled into a bun in the back of her head, and she wore a pair of wirerimmed glasses. I walked toward her thinking, “This woman wiU
answer any question I can think to ask.”
I said, “Howdy,” and she smiled.

I explained that I have hiked into the Big Horns on dozens of
occasions. I told her that I began making trips to the Horns when I was
in college. Then I mentioned how the number of trips increased when
I actually moved to Wyoming.

I said, “In all that time, I haven’t seen a bighorn.” I asked, “Are
there any bighorns in the Big Horns?”
She said, “No. Not to my knowledge.”
I put on a flabbergasted face and asked, “Isn’t that why we call
them the Big Horns? The bighorns?”
“Yes. We caU them the Big Horns because at one time they were
covered with bighorns.”
“What happened?”

Her explanation started down a predictable road. She described
how the wild sheep in the Big Horns were hunted to the brink of
extinction. She pointed to a row of sheep’s heads on the wall and asked
Wouldn t you want one of those above your fireplace?” I said “No'
Thank you,” but my answer was beside the point. Mounted ’sheep
heads were a status symbol in the early part of the twentieth century.

�•

The West was still the frontier, and at the time, people wanted a piece of
that in their living rooms.

Hunting regulations curbed the wholesale slaughter of the Rockv
Mountiun bighorn sheep, but hunters were not the last threat they
would face. Wyoming is known as the Cowboy State, but when the
phrase w^ coined there were more sheep than cattle within our
borders. Domestic sheep carry an infection called pasteurella. They’ve
een carriers for years. They are immune to the disease. Domestic
sheep can live full lives with no outward effects. But wild sheep are not
immune.

When bighorns and domestics range over the same landscape the
infection IS passed from the tame to the wild animals, and it makes them
disorders, pneumonia in particular. Epidemics of
prt,r/vvvZh-i:;uiiccd pneumonia wiped out herds of bighorn sheen
including those that used to roam the Big Hom Range.
When she fimshed explaining the demise of the bighorns in the Big
Horns, I asked, Doesn’t that bother anyone?”

She said, ‘Tou’re the first person to ask.”
I was flattered to think that I was the first to ask, but it turns out
Aat I wasn’t the only one outraged by the thought that there were no
bighorns in the Big Horns. In the fall of 2004, the Game and Fish
Department air-lifted forty sheep out of an Idaho canyon, and placed
±em at 8,000 feet of altitude on the west side of the range. The
department hoped the herd would grow to include 200 animals and
stabilize. The group has not grown to that size, but the population is
stable, and that makes me feel better about the condition of my favorite
mountains.

It takes a minute for my feet to grow accustomed to the water The
creek is freezing cold. It stings at first, but then I start to cast, and
forget that I have toes. Mayflies hatch on the surface, spread their
wings, and flutter in the air. The trout watch bugs from behind rocks
and sunken logs. A splashing sound catches my ear. I look in time to
see a brook trout arching back into the current on the downside of
a leap.

I whip a cast along the bank. The rod arches and the bug lands
upstream, but the fly does not have time to ride the current. It is hit by
a brookie. His belly shines in the air as he rolls over, sweeping the fly
underwater.

�94

Chad Hanson

With my line in tow the fish makes a run toward a pool. He swims
hard, but I pull him close despite his determination. Once I have the
trout in hand I am quick with the hook, although, I take a moment to
appreciate the colors on his sides. I ask the fish to forgive me for the
intrusion. Even though I do not fully understand my desire to insert
myself into the food chain of a stream, the compulsion is too strong to
deny.

Two days before the trip to Ram’s Horn, I left the house at noon
and rode my bicycle to a local burrito stand. There were seven people
waiting to place an order. At the counter, there stood four boys in their
early teens. They looked like they had come from a soccer practice.
Three men in business suits waited behind the boys.
The kids were wiggling all over. They were smacking each other
and laughing for reasons that no one else could understand. The
businessmen stood silent behind their neckties—faces resentful. As
I thought about the distinction between the adults and the teenagers, it
occurred to me that I was looking at the difference between wild and
domestic human beings.

In the past, I have worn ties and worked fifty weeks out of the year.
I know the effect that such a life has on a person. It’s debilitating, but
it’s hard to stop. We yearn for homes and cars and clothes and sporting
goods. Our desires trap us on the road to what we think of as success,
and that road does not have an exit.
Sometimes, we drive into the weedy ditch beside the economic
freeway of our lives. We do it because we know we gave up something
when we became middle class. We know that something untamed stiS
exists in the tall grass and sagebrush beyond the parking lots and close­
cropped lawns. We fly fish in part because we all harbor a sense of loss.

We’ve seen fields of lupine bud-dozed and paved into subdivisions.
We’ve had to watch people we love grow old and pass away. We’ve
read the reports that explain how pikas, marmots, and polar bears are
scheduled for oblivion. With all of the usual bad news on TV, we start
to yearn. The feeling begins as a quiet longing, but it grows. We
develop a need for sensual experience—the reality of moving water,
jumping fish, tall peaks, and quaking leaves.

We are the yearning creatures on this good green Earth. Hawks do
not crave anything. Trout do not possess desires. Cats and coyotes
long for nothing. We are different. We yearn our way into plastic,

�throw-away lives, and then we yearn for a way out. We yearn for
beauty, for what is gone, for whatever waits around the next corner,
unseen.
We might be kidding ourselves, with our vests full of gadgets, our
brand-named waders, and our SUVs. We’re actors playing the parts
available to us in our culture. Our society said, “Take a page from the
screenplay of A VJver 'Bains Through If and head for a body of water.”
When we can afford the costume and the props, some of us are happy
to oblige.

Our actions are not forced on us by genetics, but there is a thirst
that afflicts people that come of age in this country. For those of us
with fly rod tubes in our closets, the longing appears as an urge to stand
knee deep in rivers, colorful rocks under our feet, birds chirping in the
branches overhead, a light breeze carrying the seeds of cottonwoods—
all of it thrumming to the rhythm of a stream. ■

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